o-flannagain stout conversion help

Post #1 made 14 years ago
So I would like to try my first BIAB. For the record I search for this conversion on the site and did not see it, and I also search for posting the spread sheet and I did not see that either. :blush:

I have a recipe that I would like to try based on it's simplicity and comments made about the final product. I have filled in the calculator the best that I can. I added a English conversion column on the first page for a reference for me. I don't see how to post/add the calc spread sheet that I have filled out for review?

Recipe Type: All Grain
Yeast: WLP004 Irish Ale
Yeast Starter: 1/2 C. DME 1 Pint Water 36 hours
Batch Size (Gallons): 5
Original Gravity: 1.046
Final Gravity: 1.014
IBU: 17.2
Boiling Time (Minutes): 60
Color: 29 Black
Primary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 1 Week 68
Secondary Fermentation (# of Days & Temp): 2 Weeks 64

6.00 lb Pale Malt (2 Row) US (2.0 SRM) Grain 64.86 %
1.00 lb Barley, Flaked (1.7 SRM) Grain 10.81 %
1.00 lb Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 10.81 %
0.75 lb Roasted Barley (300.0 SRM) Grain 8.11 %
0.50 lb Chocolate Malt (350.0 SRM) Grain 5.41 %
1.00 oz Goldings, East Kent [5.00 %] (60 min) Hops 17.2 IBU

The original recipe I got was from:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f68/o-flann ... ard-41072/

I will use a converted Keg w/o any holes, temp probes and siphon out of for my vessel.

I was planning on Hopping in a smaller separate bag too (pellets), unless there was reason not too. Maybe because there will be so much trub, don't worry about it might be the BIAB method. I was also going to have LBS grind the grains twice, based on some of the comments I have read, unless, again you think I should not.

Main questions that come to mind after filling out the calculator are:

Should I go out to a 90 min wort boil?
"IF" yes, then hold off my hops for 30 minutes and then add, correct?

Should I mash out?
"IF" yes, would I still go the full 90 minutes "OR" maybe if Mashing out, stick with 60 min, and use a 10 minute hold at a mash out temp?
What mash out temp would you suggest?

Maybe I don't understand the calculator, but I didn't see anywhere about suggested strike temps for the gain bill, is there a section for that? BTW, does BS2 have BIAB as a method and this might be in there? :idiot:
Last edited by zap_1961 on 05 Nov 2011, 00:41, edited 5 times in total.

Post #2 made 14 years ago
Nice recipe Zap

I've put it on a calculator and attached it to this post, see if it matchs yours !! :lol: I've assumed its 5gal into fermentor and an efficiency of 79%.

I've gone for the 90min boil as I always go for this length and as its your first brew I would recommend that you do. Just add your hops at 60 min as you suggested.
As for mash out, I always do and its no hardship, I start to raise the temperature with about 10 min to go till end of mash, just remember to stir and keep stirring..

The hop schedule works out ok, you'll notice I have set the utilization to 110% as I see you are using pellets. If you have a different calculator with out this feature just go with yours and the full 1oz.

Strike temp: the original poster on HBT says that he mashed at 156/157 so aim for a couple of degrees above this say 158/159..

Note: I've just converted this to *c as I'm not familiar with *F and I get 68/69*c. I think this is a bit on the high side for a first brew (no margin for error) and perhaps would be better in the 65*C range (149/150*F) perhaps someone else could chip in there thoughts :dunno:

You mentioned that you have added an English conversion column on your sheet, does this mean you are wanting the values in Metric? if so on my sheet there is an option to change between the 2. Click on cell G1 and you will see an option to change units.

Edit: Corrected dumb ass mistake that was spotted by proof reader Lylo...jeeez good job I spelt proof correctly or I would have been really in the bad books :lol: :lol: :lol: :lol:
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Last edited by Yeasty on 05 Nov 2011, 02:09, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #3 made 14 years ago
Hummm that is a lot different/updated than the calculator that I down loaded today off the site. I guess the US/English column I added was a waste of time, as it is already done now.

I understood the strike temp after the grains were added, my question was, where to get the water temp up to to compensate for the temp drop once the grains were added. I was shooting for 156 max, most likely 155 and and let it drop but not lower than 153 before adding heat if necessary. I think with a good insulation blanket and the Keggle, I would be OK.

Post #4 made 14 years ago
Hi Zap

Yea there's a few versions of the calculator knocking about. I can't even remember when I found the one I use now, the one that you downloaded is fine apart from the unit conversion problem ok if you use metric not so good if you don't. Its still good though so stick with the one your most happy using.

As to your strike water question:

2/3 degrees over your desired mash temp is what most guys go for, this is dependent on your grain temperature which will be different depending on where in the world you live and where it is stored. There are calculators available on line is you do a search. Your right to go for 2 deg above mash temp so in your case if your aiming for 153 heat your water to 155. Its easier to add heat than take it away so you are better being cautious at first until you get use to your equipment.

Hope that makes sense.

Yeasty
Why is everyone talking about "Cheese"
    • SVA Brewer With Over 50 Brews From Great Britain

Post #5 made 14 years ago
zap i think yeasty meant to say.
"to the end of the mash"
rather than
"I start to raise the temperature with about 10 min to go till end of boil,"
Good luck,it sounds like a good first BIAB.
Last edited by Lylo on 05 Nov 2011, 03:32, edited 1 time in total.
AWOL

Post #6 made 14 years ago
:idiot: :idiot: :idiot:
Well spotted Lylo, I'll edit the OP..Serves me right for trying to multitask (cooking dinner) :lol: :lol:

Sorry Zap for the confusion..

Yeasty
Why is everyone talking about "Cheese"
    • SVA Brewer With Over 50 Brews From Great Britain

Post #7 made 14 years ago
Hi zap, in regard to your question on strike temperature. I'd suggest you aim for your mash temp. So if you want to mash at 64°C that should be your strike temperature.

I say this because I also use a 50l keggle and find the temperature of the liquor continues to rise after I turn the gas off. I believe this is due to the stored heats in the base of the keggle.
So If I shut my burner of at 64°C, then add my grains, the mash temperature, on my set up, will settle at 64°C.

Also if your temperature settles out a bit low, it is easy to add heat. If it settles out high, it is very difficult to remove that heat and it can and will change the profile of the beer by making it sweeter.

At least give it a go this way until you get to know how your system works.

Cheers
"It's beer Jim, but not as we know it."
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