Hey fellas good day from hot and humid Florida,
Having only used pellets to hop with so far, was wondering if it would be beneficial to use a hop bag.I was told by my LHBS that it was not necessary that the hops just settled to the bottom. just curious
Post #2 made 15 years ago
Hi jb,
nope, I haven't used a hop bag since I did kits & bits, unless you have a hopeless pickup there's no hassles in letting the hop debris settle/ whirlpool before draining the kettle, be it pellets or plugs/ whole flowers.
LHBS are always looking to sell stuff, so its surprising that they suggested it wasn't necessary- I'd stick with them, they sound quite OK...
Hope you're making the most of the balmy conditions there, we're on our chinstraps in the depths of winter here... Hmm, think I need a winter warmer! /shameless plug
Edit: Just noticed a pun: "hopeless pickup"! Pardon me...
nope, I haven't used a hop bag since I did kits & bits, unless you have a hopeless pickup there's no hassles in letting the hop debris settle/ whirlpool before draining the kettle, be it pellets or plugs/ whole flowers.
LHBS are always looking to sell stuff, so its surprising that they suggested it wasn't necessary- I'd stick with them, they sound quite OK...
Hope you're making the most of the balmy conditions there, we're on our chinstraps in the depths of winter here... Hmm, think I need a winter warmer! /shameless plug
Edit: Just noticed a pun: "hopeless pickup"! Pardon me...
Last edited by Ralph on 27 Jul 2010, 18:28, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #3 made 15 years ago
That is a great question jb!
The first problem is what is defined as a hop bag? The second problem is what type of hops you put in it. What is commonly known as a hop bag has little application (usually zero application) for pellets as these quickly become pretty much a powder. A bag of BIAB porosity though does act as a real hop bag for pellets.
There are advantages and disadvantages to this.
A BIAB bag is the best hop bag you can get. The real question is "Do you want one?" In many cases, you should and in many cases you shouldn't.
I'm running a bit short on time at the moment. Can anyone else expand on/explain the above? It nearly needs a book just trying to find out what one home brew shop calls a hop bag!
PP
The first problem is what is defined as a hop bag? The second problem is what type of hops you put in it. What is commonly known as a hop bag has little application (usually zero application) for pellets as these quickly become pretty much a powder. A bag of BIAB porosity though does act as a real hop bag for pellets.
There are advantages and disadvantages to this.
A BIAB bag is the best hop bag you can get. The real question is "Do you want one?" In many cases, you should and in many cases you shouldn't.
I'm running a bit short on time at the moment. Can anyone else expand on/explain the above? It nearly needs a book just trying to find out what one home brew shop calls a hop bag!
PP
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Post #4 made 15 years ago
I have been using nylon paint strainer bags for my hops. I buy the five gallon size and clamp it at three points to the top of my kettle with spring clamps. The bags is big enough that it does not constrict the expansion of the hops and I believe I get good hop utilization.
Post #5 made 15 years ago
This is also my method. Has worked well so far.mike wrote:I have been using nylon paint strainer bags for my hops. I buy the five gallon size and clamp it at three points to the top of my kettle with spring clamps. The bags is big enough that it does not constrict the expansion of the hops and I believe I get good hop utilization.
Last edited by SacSoul on 28 Jul 2010, 03:42, edited 6 times in total.
Arrogant Bastard Ale: "...Perhaps you think multi-million dollar ad campaigns make a beer taste better. Perhaps you're mouthing your words as you read this."
Post #6 made 15 years ago
Thanks for the replys fellas
Mike and Sacsoul are y'all using pellets or whole hops
PP my shops bag are like a cheese cloth or maybe a mouslin consistence
Ralph - Local shop is great very helpful ran by two pretty knowledgeable woman.
I always make the best of our weather ,Love living in florida.Don't know if I could live away from the coast know my son couldn't I'll probably catch some slack from our friends to the north, but our winter was very long and cold this year.I work outside and it was the first year I went and bought some insulated overalls 
Mike and Sacsoul are y'all using pellets or whole hops
PP my shops bag are like a cheese cloth or maybe a mouslin consistence
Ralph - Local shop is great very helpful ran by two pretty knowledgeable woman.
I always make the best of our weather ,Love living in florida.Don't know if I could live away from the coast know my son couldn't
I'll probably catch some slack from our friends to the north, but our winter was very long and cold this year.I work outside and it was the first year I went and bought some insulated overalls
Post #7 made 15 years ago
When I made my biab bag I practiced the stitching by making a hop bag out of the viole. It works a treat, I personly like to keep as much sediment/trub out as possible.
[center]"All right, brain. You don't like me and I don't like you, but let's just do this and I can get back to killing you with beer."
[/center]
[center]Homer Simpson[/center]
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[/center]
[center]Homer Simpson[/center]
[center]K.I.S.S., B.I.A.B.[/center]
Post #8 made 15 years ago
jmbingham wrote: Ralph - Local shop is great very helpful ran by two pretty knowledgeable woman.
Righto, I'm emigrating! 
Last edited by Ralph on 28 Jul 2010, 06:13, edited 6 times in total.
[center]Give me a beer and I will move the world. Archimedes[/center]
Post #9 made 15 years ago
I did the same as Wiz. That is when I stitched my bag I also stitched up a hop bag from spare voile. I used an old keg lid o-ring to make an opening for the hops and then a long (300mm) bag below it.
Works fine for me
Works fine for me
"It's beer Jim, but not as we know it."
Post #10 made 15 years ago
i also stitched a hop bag while making the BIAB sack.
But, i stopped using it in my last few brews. I figure, what's the point?
I whirlpool before transferring to my cube and that, when I'm ready to transfer to my fermenter, i pore the wort through a pasta strainer lined with the above mentioned sack. that way i get some aeration action as well.
But, i stopped using it in my last few brews. I figure, what's the point?
I whirlpool before transferring to my cube and that, when I'm ready to transfer to my fermenter, i pore the wort through a pasta strainer lined with the above mentioned sack. that way i get some aeration action as well.
Cube:
fermenter: Sourdough Spelt Ale, Classic Lambic, Oud Brune, Barrel Aged Belgian Dubbel
Kegs: Bob's Black IPA, Blanc Blond, Soda...
to be brewed:
fermenter: Sourdough Spelt Ale, Classic Lambic, Oud Brune, Barrel Aged Belgian Dubbel
Kegs: Bob's Black IPA, Blanc Blond, Soda...
to be brewed:
Post #11 made 15 years ago
I've used both. It goes without saying that the paint strainer bag works better for whole hops, but it does an OK job with pellets too. Good enough that I don't need to either whirlpool or use a strainer at any time.jmbingham wrote:Mike and Sacsoul are y'all using pellets or whole hops
Last edited by SacSoul on 28 Jul 2010, 20:23, edited 6 times in total.
Arrogant Bastard Ale: "...Perhaps you think multi-million dollar ad campaigns make a beer taste better. Perhaps you're mouthing your words as you read this."
Post #12 made 15 years ago
I use a LHBS muslin bag for pellet hops. I guess half of the hops leak out and the utilization is slightly down? I don't really care. I discard the hop sack and drain everything into my cube. I use "Irish Moss" or some other type of coagulant to settle the cube before I drain into a fermentation bucket. I usually drain my cube within 24 hours so I don't worry about trube or "Gunk" spoiling my beer. Good God! All this beer talk is giving me a "Brew itch" I think I will make that Black IPA today!
tap 1 Raspberry wine
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tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV
http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
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Post #13 made 15 years ago
Shibolet, do you expose your wort to air while it's hot, or if you slowly whirlpooling no aeration is done?shibolet wrote:i also stitched a hop bag while making the BIAB sack.
But, i stopped using it in my last few brews. I figure, what's the point?
I whirlpool before transferring to my cube and that, when I'm ready to transfer to my fermenter, i pore the wort through a pasta strainer lined with the above mentioned sack. that way i get some aeration action as well.
*I use a 100% white Polyester (voile). Works great.
Last edited by Timos on 02 Aug 2010, 00:25, edited 6 times in total.
Post #14 made 15 years ago
i give the wort i good stir to get the whirlpool motion going and than put the lid on.
on the other hand, i am not a big believer in Hot Side Aeration. sounds like a load of bull to me.
on the other hand, i am not a big believer in Hot Side Aeration. sounds like a load of bull to me.
Cube:
fermenter: Sourdough Spelt Ale, Classic Lambic, Oud Brune, Barrel Aged Belgian Dubbel
Kegs: Bob's Black IPA, Blanc Blond, Soda...
to be brewed:
fermenter: Sourdough Spelt Ale, Classic Lambic, Oud Brune, Barrel Aged Belgian Dubbel
Kegs: Bob's Black IPA, Blanc Blond, Soda...
to be brewed:
Post #15 made 15 years ago
I use the 5 gallon paint strainer as well. I made a super easy rig to hold the hop sock. I am able to move the rig so that the hops are directly within an upturn in the boil. It certainly does cut down on the trub.
The rig
Closeup of the contstruction. Two threaded rods, two uclamps, and 4 wingnuts. Office clips to hold the paint strainer in place.
Plenty long enough to reach to the bottom of the kettle.
In action
Can even fit with the chiller in the last 15 minutes of the boil
What remains in the bag. I twist the bag to drain it out while the cooling goes on.
The rig
Last edited by Two If By Sea on 16 Oct 2010, 08:54, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #16 made 15 years ago
I'm debating on if I want to use a hop bag or not. I'm using lots of late additions in my beers and I no-chill. Debating if I should let those go into the cube as well, or just let the worth sit at flameout for a couple of minutes.
I've been looking at this chart for quite awhile now trying to figure out my schedule. I'm still undecided on FWH or just cube-hopping for most of my late additions.
Last edited by iijakii on 31 Oct 2010, 15:45, edited 6 times in total.
Post #17 made 15 years ago
I cube hop, hop tea just before fermentation finishes and dry hop when i rack to secondary. So my cube hops are the 20min addition, the hop tea is a 5-10 addition, and dry hops are obviously dry hops. I just tasted some wort where I did the above and it was very hoppy, very pleased. I don't use a hop bag I find that after chilling everything drops out and I get really clear beer.
Post #18 made 15 years ago
iijakii wrote:I'm debating on if I want to use a hop bag or not. I'm using lots of late additions in my beers and I no-chill. Debating if I should let those go into the cube as well, or just let the worth sit at flameout for a couple of minutes.
I've been looking at this chart for quite awhile now trying to figure out my schedule. I'm still undecided on FWH or just cube-hopping for most of my late additions.
I've just stumbled onto this post. I have been reading about time delays for addition of hops using the no chill method. I was under the impression that all BIABers used no chill. If this is wrong, which I now suspect that it is, does this mean that recipes that have been processed through The Calculator, using no chill, should use that chart for hop addition times?
Bob
Edit: BTW, where did you find this chart,
and what is FWH?
Last edited by BobtheBrewer on 24 Dec 2010, 16:54, edited 6 times in total.
Post #19 made 15 years ago
joshua wrote:I saw this chart on http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/forum/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... tart=8,and that forum used FWH for "First Wort Hopping" meaning the fisrt hop addition after the boil is finished. Hope this helps somewhat.
Thanks for that Joshua, just what I wanted,
Bob
Last edited by BobtheBrewer on 25 Dec 2010, 11:21, edited 6 times in total.
Post #20 made 15 years ago
I thought FWH was hops added before the boil starts, just after the mash has finished, I hope someone can clarify this.
[center]"All right, brain. You don't like me and I don't like you, but let's just do this and I can get back to killing you with beer."
[/center]
[center]Homer Simpson[/center]
[center]K.I.S.S., B.I.A.B.[/center]
[/center]
[center]Homer Simpson[/center]
[center]K.I.S.S., B.I.A.B.[/center]
Post #21 made 15 years ago
yes... FWH is the hops added BEFORE the boil.. in a traditional setup you would add the hops to the brew kettle along with the first running's (first wort) just before you start the sparge. For me, I add them to the boil kettle while I have my grain bag draining in another pot. I let it drain for 20-30 minutes then light the burner to heat to boil. I then squeeze the life out of my grain bag while twisting ii to get every precious drop of wort.
for more info on FWH http://www.brewery.org/library/1stwort.html
for more info on FWH http://www.brewery.org/library/1stwort.html
Post #22 made 15 years ago
Doesn't really matter where you live, mashing is the process of converting the starches in the grain to a usable sugar for the yeast to use. wort is a common term used for the liquid produced by mashing. It is also what the liquid is called before the yeast convert the sugars to alcohol. FWH is the hops added at the beginning of the sparge in a traditional AG system.
Post #23 made 15 years ago
I've done a couple beers with Pol's chart and I'm undecided. I don't think I'll adjust my hop times for no-chill anymore.
Post #24 made 15 years ago
I've never adjusted my hopping for no chill. If a recipe says 20g for 60 minutes, that's what goes into the boil.
"It's beer Jim, but not as we know it."
Post #25 made 15 years ago
I'm not really sure what you're asking.
If you're FWH, yes, you keep them in there for the entire boil. In my experience FWH seems to add a much milder bitterness, though. I kind of find it hard to pin down in my recipes, I don't like using FWH.
If you're FWH, yes, you keep them in there for the entire boil. In my experience FWH seems to add a much milder bitterness, though. I kind of find it hard to pin down in my recipes, I don't like using FWH.
