Display posts from previous
Sort by

Post #26 made 15 years ago
by iijakii
From my understanding hops need to be boiled to get the alpha acids to do whatever they do and cause bitterness. But boiling drives off the oils that add flavor and aroma. The idea behind FWH is that soaking them in the warm/hot wort while sparging leads to the hop oils binding with the wort so that they are not driven off as easily during boiling. This also increases bitterness slightly since the time spent in sparge will add some bitterness. The aim behind FWH is to get more flavor out of your hops. Kind of a two-for-one deal, using hops for both bittering and flavor/aroma, vs two or three separate additions. I've tried FWH a few times and was dissatisfied, but a good number of brewers swear by it.

Post #27 made 15 years ago
by Mysticmead
that's the beautiful part of this hobby. What works for one person may or may not work for another. I myself will be bottling my first BIAB this weekend. It's not my first BIAB, its my first AG and my first beer that I did a FWH too.. I decided to try it and see if it does in fact make a smoother bitterness. if it works for me, then I'll keep doing it. if not then I'll go back to standard hopping schedules.

Post #28 made 15 years ago
by Nuff
wizard78 wrote:I thought FWH was hops added before the boil starts, just after the mash has finished, I hope someone can clarify this.
That is correct wizard. I have just edited the post that triggered your question to avoid further confusion. joshua's link in that post is a very good read though for those interested in the subject of FWH.

Nuff said ;).
Last edited by Nuff on 28 Dec 2010, 21:28, edited 6 times in total.

Post #29 made 15 years ago
by BobtheBrewer
Mysticmead wrote:yes... FWH is the hops added BEFORE the boil.. in a traditional setup you would add the hops to the brew kettle along with the first running's (first wort) just before you start the sparge. For me, I add them to the boil kettle while I have my grain bag draining in another pot. I let it drain for 20-30 minutes then light the burner to heat to boil. I then squeeze the life out of my grain bag while twisting ii to get every precious drop of wort.

for more info on FWH http://www.brewery.org/library/1stwort.html" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

OK, now I am totally confused. According to the chart, if a 15 min addition is called for, are you saying that I should add it to the wort before I boil, in essence before I add my 60 min bittering hops???
Last edited by BobtheBrewer on 29 Dec 2010, 18:33, edited 6 times in total.

Post #30 made 15 years ago
by Mysticmead
yeah, that's what the chart says.. with FWH it's supposed to give the aroma and flavor of late addition hopping along with a little bitterness. Plus it supposedly changes the PH of the water to allow for better utilization of your hops added during the boil. I say supposedly since I'm not a chemist and can't tell you if it really does or doesn't. I'll be bottling my first FWH beer this weekend and can get a better idea of the taste at that time (gotta drink the sample right?)

Post #31 made 15 years ago
by stux
I just shifted my hop times by 5 minutes when I did the no-chill, not saying it makes a difference either way, it was my first BIAB :)

So the 5 minute hops went in just before whirlpool, 20 at 15, and 60 at 55

I thought the logic that the hops would be provide more bittering as the cube cooled, and the aroma would get trapped in the cube seemed sound :)
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12

Post #32 made 15 years ago
by BobtheBrewer
I have decided to get a few different brews under my belt before trying different times for no chill. I guess that I have sort of been doing both because I put my 0 minute hops into the cube, so that's a delay of about 30 minutes when I allow for whirlpooling. I don't have enough experience at BIAB and no chill to comment on the practice at this stage but I intend picking a recipe that I particularly liked and trying the delayed method. I thought about FWH in my last brew but couldn't convince myself to add hops to the wort before boiling.

Post #34 made 14 years ago
by stux
It makes sense that a FWH is essentially a hop addition at the beginning of a boil

Any hop utilization chart will tell you that most of the bitterness is realized at 60 mins, and almost all at 80 mins

IMO the difference attributed to FWH is just the volatiles of the hops being boiled off as much as possible
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12

Post #35 made 14 years ago
by rockbotton
Just read through this thread and I am not sure if we need to adjust the hop schedule if cubing. Has anyone tested the suggestions in the chart to determine if changing the hop schedule does make a difference?
Fermenting:

Bottle Conditioning

Up Next:
    • SVA Brewer With Over 20 Brews From United States of America

Post #36 made 14 years ago
by stux
rockbotton wrote:Just read through this thread and I am not sure if we need to adjust the hop schedule if cubing. Has anyone tested the suggestions in the chart to determine if changing the hop schedule does make a difference?
I'm still working on an answer to this myself.

I tried 5 minute shifts as documented in this thread... and now I've tried a few brews at 15 minutes.

I read some convincing theory that we should use 10 minute shifts

Anyway, i'm going to start using 10 minute shifts, because I think the 15 minute shift is too much.

I've been getting good flavour, and fairly good aroma with 0 minute additions instead of 15 minute additions... next time I'm going to try a -5 addition. Ie shut off the burner... wait for the currents to end, toss in my pellets... give it a few minutes to soak, and then do a big whirlpool.

I use a French Press (coffee plunger) to add extra aroma/flavour if I feel I need it. You add the hops to the plunger, add boiling water, stir and wait a minute, then plunge, add that to the fermenter/keg. Then you add more boiling water, stir and wait 5 minutes, repeat.

I've tried this just after pitching, and also after high krausen... the theory being less aroma will get blown off. Not sure which I prefer. I do have a concern that hop polyphenals are causing haze which is not a normally a problem when the hops have been in the boil.

Another alternative is to not make any changes to the bittering additions, and then do you late hops (20, 5, 0, -5 etc) on Pitching day. Pre-chill your cube (in a fridge), and take a couple of L out, boil that on the stove and do your 20 etc minute additions. then pour the chilled wort into a fermenter, and add the 3L. If you get the ratio right you can rapidly cool your boiled wort to pitching temp and end up with a fermenter of perfectly temped wort. Its a bit like a strike water infusion ;)

See : Late Hopping And No Chilling Guide - La Methode Argonois
Last edited by stux on 08 Dec 2011, 10:56, edited 6 times in total.
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12

Post #37 made 14 years ago
by rockbotton
I have read the Late Hopping and No Chilling Guide - La Methode Argonis and used it for my last two brews but only for additions that were 10 minutes or less. My last brew I did 10 minute shifts for the hop additions (i.e. from 60 minutes to 40 minutes) after reading as much as I could find that seemed to be a good number to use but since I am still a newbie I want to know what you guys do.
Fermenting:

Bottle Conditioning

Up Next:
    • SVA Brewer With Over 20 Brews From United States of America
Post Reply

Return to “From Mash to Lauter (Water to Sweet Liquor)”

Brewers Online

Brewers browsing this forum: No members and 25 guests

cron