I'm moving to a new house in a couple of weeks and I'm interested in building a SIMPLE eBIAB kettle. By "simple" I mean:
1) No pumps
2) No PID controller
3) Variable (turn knob) power controller
My goal is to replace the beautiful simplicity of a propane burner/kettle (without spigots)/bag with heating element/kettle (without spigots)/bag.
I've started to look around (and I know there is some info around this sight, I'm being slightly lazy here), but was hoping someone could point me in the right direction. I'm not totally against building something myself, but would be more comfortable buying if the price is right. So information on DIY or pre-assembled would be appreciated.
I'll have access to a 240V outlet, so I'm looking in the 4500 or 5500W range.
I'll probably be getting a 15gal Bayou Classic kettle.
Post #2 made 12 years ago
BBH, take a look over http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/ Home Brew Forums > Home Brewing Beer > Electric Brewing
and the PWM controller at http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/pwm-sh ... ow-221301/ for a simple way to control tempeatures
and the PWM controller at http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/pwm-sh ... ow-221301/ for a simple way to control tempeatures
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
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Post #3 made 12 years ago
BrickBrewHaus,
This is not a simple eBIAB but I like the idea of just buying the whole getup and being done with it! Hey, if your buying a house just roll the price of the eBIAB into it! Desiree pays for the glasses at the NHC so I owe her to send you there! Good luck!
http://blog.highgravitybrew.com/electric-brewing/
P.S The Bears still Suck!!!
This is not a simple eBIAB but I like the idea of just buying the whole getup and being done with it! Hey, if your buying a house just roll the price of the eBIAB into it! Desiree pays for the glasses at the NHC so I owe her to send you there! Good luck!
http://blog.highgravitybrew.com/electric-brewing/
P.S The Bears still Suck!!!
Last edited by BobBrews on 25 Apr 2013, 02:14, edited 2 times in total.
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV
http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV
http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
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- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America
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Post #4 made 12 years ago
Thanks guys.joshua, I was reading that thread earlier. I might give it a shot, we'll see.
Bob, the link isn't working, but I assume you're talking about the ~$1000 eBIAB set up, or one of their control boxes? If so, you're right, it isn't simple and isn't really that cheap. They also have a simple control box for $250. Might not be a bad option, but its so simple that I feel like I have to build one myself. I've never run the numbers (I'm sure someone else has though), but it seems like entry costs for electric brewing are higher than propane. However, I'd bet electric brewing pays for itself eventually especially if you consider driving time to refill propane tanks.
Post #5 made 12 years ago
Brick,
I've looked at High Gravity Brew, and you can do this.... The $249.00 EKC controller, the 62 qt bayou pot $129.00, the 4500 or 5500 watt element $69-$79.00 AND have them pop the holes ($25 ish per hole) into you pot. I'm sure that there are ways to do the controller cheaper, but Ive looked around, am I am not smart enough to follow any of the directions I've found. You are paying a bit more for the elements, but they are wired, and are the correct elements and ready to install to your pot. Id estimate you'd be into your pot, heating system and controller for around $500 when all is said and done.
trout
I've looked at High Gravity Brew, and you can do this.... The $249.00 EKC controller, the 62 qt bayou pot $129.00, the 4500 or 5500 watt element $69-$79.00 AND have them pop the holes ($25 ish per hole) into you pot. I'm sure that there are ways to do the controller cheaper, but Ive looked around, am I am not smart enough to follow any of the directions I've found. You are paying a bit more for the elements, but they are wired, and are the correct elements and ready to install to your pot. Id estimate you'd be into your pot, heating system and controller for around $500 when all is said and done.
trout
Last edited by 2trout on 25 Apr 2013, 11:15, edited 2 times in total.
"All I know is that the beer is good and people clamor for it. OK, it's free and that has something to do with it."
Bobbrews
Bobbrews
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Post #7 made 12 years ago
Yea,
When you click on a kettle pic for more info, at the bottom of the new window ther is a pic that says "build your kettle". You can add thing like an element with weldless kit, and holes for things!
62 qt bayou pot here.
http://www.highgravitybrew.com/productc ... -p2657.htm
trout
When you click on a kettle pic for more info, at the bottom of the new window ther is a pic that says "build your kettle". You can add thing like an element with weldless kit, and holes for things!
62 qt bayou pot here.
http://www.highgravitybrew.com/productc ... -p2657.htm
trout
Last edited by 2trout on 25 Apr 2013, 21:09, edited 2 times in total.
"All I know is that the beer is good and people clamor for it. OK, it's free and that has something to do with it."
Bobbrews
Bobbrews
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Post #8 made 12 years ago
First rule of "Simple eBIAB Setup" is that there is no Simple eBIAB Setup. Let us know what you end up with.
---Todd
---Todd
WWBBD?
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Post #9 made 12 years ago
I would agree with that todd, especially when compared to a propane burner setup. Nothing is as simple as that (well maybe a stove top). I think the complexity pays for itself when it comes time to refill a propane tank, though.
Post #10 made 12 years ago
Brick,
The E BIAB thing should be simple, no runs to the store for propane, no tanks, no wondering "Do I have enough gas for my next batch?" just flip a switch and heat! Im talking just a pot, element, bag. But apparently you need a controller for the element. You cant just plug it in. The $240.00 price of the controller puts a 240v system unreasonable for me, or I would have done it earlier this year. We have a 240 hookup in the garage where the previous owners had a kiln for fireing pottery. It would be perfect.
The High Gravity's prices are very good for the pot, a little high for the element, but it is wired with a plug, and the weldless kit is there and it's easy to install if you have them put in the holes.(a good hole punch is expensive, and the cheap ones have a rep for failure before the first hole is complete.)In my opinion up to this point the system IS reasonable for what you get, and the time it saves you. But the controller is key. It seems you have to have one for a 240v element. You just can't plug in a 240v plug into the big outlet on the wall it.
I have looked extensively at building the controller for a 240v system and that is the killer. I am not bright to follow any of the directions to make one. I've looked around a lot. High gravity is really the only place that I have seen one for purchase.
240v is a killer...literally. You do need to be careful. I really want that pot, element bag system, but I just cant figure out the controller for a reasonable price. Im resigned to propane for now.
trout
The E BIAB thing should be simple, no runs to the store for propane, no tanks, no wondering "Do I have enough gas for my next batch?" just flip a switch and heat! Im talking just a pot, element, bag. But apparently you need a controller for the element. You cant just plug it in. The $240.00 price of the controller puts a 240v system unreasonable for me, or I would have done it earlier this year. We have a 240 hookup in the garage where the previous owners had a kiln for fireing pottery. It would be perfect.
The High Gravity's prices are very good for the pot, a little high for the element, but it is wired with a plug, and the weldless kit is there and it's easy to install if you have them put in the holes.(a good hole punch is expensive, and the cheap ones have a rep for failure before the first hole is complete.)In my opinion up to this point the system IS reasonable for what you get, and the time it saves you. But the controller is key. It seems you have to have one for a 240v element. You just can't plug in a 240v plug into the big outlet on the wall it.
I have looked extensively at building the controller for a 240v system and that is the killer. I am not bright to follow any of the directions to make one. I've looked around a lot. High gravity is really the only place that I have seen one for purchase.
240v is a killer...literally. You do need to be careful. I really want that pot, element bag system, but I just cant figure out the controller for a reasonable price. Im resigned to propane for now.
trout
"All I know is that the beer is good and people clamor for it. OK, it's free and that has something to do with it."
Bobbrews
Bobbrews
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Post #11 made 12 years ago
2 Trout;
Could you do without the controller for the short term? Maybe look to get one as an upgrade in the future?
Reason I ask, is that I use a Buffalo Boiler that has a rotary temp control knob, 40L, 2.4Kw element, bought as is & can use straight out of the box.
However, I have never used that control knob. It is on full (110C), and has never moved.
I have the luxury though that the element is perfect for a rolling boil when on full.
Could you get 2 elements and just switch one off at rolling boil?
Could you do without the controller for the short term? Maybe look to get one as an upgrade in the future?
Reason I ask, is that I use a Buffalo Boiler that has a rotary temp control knob, 40L, 2.4Kw element, bought as is & can use straight out of the box.
However, I have never used that control knob. It is on full (110C), and has never moved.
I have the luxury though that the element is perfect for a rolling boil when on full.
Could you get 2 elements and just switch one off at rolling boil?
G B
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
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Post #12 made 12 years ago
mally pointed out a setup that I've been considering (two separate 120V elements). That's a nice option because, like he's said, you don't need a controller.
Someone on this forum (don't remember the thread) linked to a DIY kit that has the components for a simple controller. I can't testify to its quality, but it might be worth researching a little bit. Their instructions are very straightforward.
As for what I'm thinking, I may have it figured out. I was able to get my hands on a PID controller for a VERY good price. I know what you're thinking...BBH didn't you want simple? Here's my plan:
-Cut hole for 5500W element
-Buy a thermocouple probe
-Build a floating thermometer (that'll be a separate thread somewhere down the road) with the thermocouple
-Wire up the element with PID controller
-Use the PID controller/floating thermometer to bring strike water to temperature
-Turn off PID controller during mash
-Use the PID controller in manual mode to control the boil
This still meets my requirements of being simple, IMHO. No pumps. (I guess I did say "No PID controller in the OP
) I'm also leery of ball valves, this won't have any. In general I think it'll work pretty well.
I would've preferred a turn-knob controller, but I couldn't pass up the PID controller for the price. I just need to wire it with a solid-state relay and run the PID in manual mode for the boil. It gives the added benefit of allowing me to build a floating thermometer.
I'm sure someone else has built something similar, but I haven't seen one yet. The benefits of a floating thermocouple thermometer is that I won't need to open the lid during mash to check temps. Plus, the probe will be in the mash (as opposed to a spigot or under the bag). It will also allow me to keep a lid on the kettle while chilling, reducing contamination risk.
Someone on this forum (don't remember the thread) linked to a DIY kit that has the components for a simple controller. I can't testify to its quality, but it might be worth researching a little bit. Their instructions are very straightforward.
As for what I'm thinking, I may have it figured out. I was able to get my hands on a PID controller for a VERY good price. I know what you're thinking...BBH didn't you want simple? Here's my plan:
-Cut hole for 5500W element
-Buy a thermocouple probe
-Build a floating thermometer (that'll be a separate thread somewhere down the road) with the thermocouple
-Wire up the element with PID controller
-Use the PID controller/floating thermometer to bring strike water to temperature
-Turn off PID controller during mash
-Use the PID controller in manual mode to control the boil
This still meets my requirements of being simple, IMHO. No pumps. (I guess I did say "No PID controller in the OP
) I'm also leery of ball valves, this won't have any. In general I think it'll work pretty well.I would've preferred a turn-knob controller, but I couldn't pass up the PID controller for the price. I just need to wire it with a solid-state relay and run the PID in manual mode for the boil. It gives the added benefit of allowing me to build a floating thermometer.
I'm sure someone else has built something similar, but I haven't seen one yet. The benefits of a floating thermocouple thermometer is that I won't need to open the lid during mash to check temps. Plus, the probe will be in the mash (as opposed to a spigot or under the bag). It will also allow me to keep a lid on the kettle while chilling, reducing contamination risk.
Last edited by BrickBrewHaus on 26 Apr 2013, 22:01, edited 2 times in total.
Post #13 made 12 years ago
Mally,
I guess that the real prob with a 4500 or 5500 240V element is it gives you to much boil with out a controller. Boil overs are rough and I dont want to have to stand by pot the whole boil.
Ive investigated the two element idea, and I like it. I may eventually go that way, but you do need separate circuits close by. Some say that the circuts really should have nothing else on them. Also in my case, My house was built in the '80s, and my wiring may be a lighter guage than is iteal for a high drawing electrical element.
Brick, I think that your plan still qualifies as simple. Sometimes you need to follow the leads that you find, so a good price on a PID is a good thing. You just need to wire it up! THAT however is beyond me
trout
I guess that the real prob with a 4500 or 5500 240V element is it gives you to much boil with out a controller. Boil overs are rough and I dont want to have to stand by pot the whole boil.
Ive investigated the two element idea, and I like it. I may eventually go that way, but you do need separate circuits close by. Some say that the circuts really should have nothing else on them. Also in my case, My house was built in the '80s, and my wiring may be a lighter guage than is iteal for a high drawing electrical element.
Brick, I think that your plan still qualifies as simple. Sometimes you need to follow the leads that you find, so a good price on a PID is a good thing. You just need to wire it up! THAT however is beyond me
trout
"All I know is that the beer is good and people clamor for it. OK, it's free and that has something to do with it."
Bobbrews
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