Hop sock or no?

Post #1 made 14 years ago
Following from How do you drain your bag? Do you use a hop sock or no?

I do, I use a sock I stitched myself from some left over voile and an old keg lid o-ring. it is around 300mm deep with a 100mm diameter.

I have tried the sock and without, with no noticeable difference in the resulting beer. However, when not using the sock, like this week when I used fresh picked hop flowers, my racking cane gets clogged. :headhit:
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Post #2 made 14 years ago
I also use a hop sock made from left over voile. Because I no chill, I like to be able to pull the hops out, probably makes no difference, but in my head I'm limiting contact time with hot wort. I'm not sure that's how it works though :scratch:
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Post #3 made 14 years ago
I use a hop sock. It is a 5 gallon paint strainer bag.

I used to think the free flow hops in the wort were a better idea but one day as I was watching the boil, I changed my mind. I noticed that there were a few localized areas where the boil up occurred and these areas were clear of foam and hops. The hops were mostly around the edge of the kettle bobbing along. I realized I could possibly improve this. I use a metal ruler to weigh down my hop sock and position the bag so it sits within a boil up area. I figure more flow through the hops should be better then them bobbing along the sides of the kettle. At flame out, I twist my sock bracket around to bunch up the hop sock until it hangs over the kettle. I use the ruler to press the sock against the side and squeeze out some additional wort and what I imagine are some flavors. I don't go crazy, just get it mostly drained. I haven't done any chemical analysis or side by side comparisons so don't hold me to hard results. It just seems to me this is a good idea and it makes siphoning the wort off easier.
Last edited by Two If By Sea on 30 Jan 2011, 02:22, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #4 made 14 years ago
I do not use a hop sock (yet)

I do like the effect you get when you toss the pellets in and see the green waves, not sure if you would lose that if you used a hop sock.

My jiggle siphon sometimes blocks when I'm trying to get the last dregs of the brew out, but by then I can always pour the pot. I don't think its in any danger of blocking until I do get to the bottom...

I like the purity of a pot, flame and wort with gifts of hops during the boil, and I think a hop sock would tarnish that.

So, I'm not sure if I'm going to bother with a hop sock.
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Post #5 made 14 years ago
hashie wrote:Following from How do you drain your bag? Do you use a hop sock or no?

I do, I use a sock I stitched myself from some left over voile and an old keg lid o-ring. it is around 300mm deep with a 100mm diameter.

I have tried the sock and without, with no noticeable difference in the resulting beer. However, when not using the sock, like this week when I used fresh picked hop flowers, my racking cane gets clogged. :headhit:

Thank you Hashie, I've been trying to figure out out what to put in the neck of a a voile bag. Problem solved.
Last edited by BobtheBrewer on 30 Jan 2011, 20:17, edited 5 times in total.

Post #6 made 14 years ago
I think if I no-chilled or had a tap on my kettle and didn't use an immersion chiller I would definitely use a hop sock and my BIAB bag would be the sock I would use.

I chill, syphon and do have an immersion chiller. I no longer use a hop sock for the following reasons which I'll paraphrase from a post I made in a general thread here recently...
I mainly use pellet hops in my brews. I originally used to use the Craftbrewer hop bag but I found it awkward to suspend and then deal with when I was immersion chilling. I also had some fears on hop utilisation but never really noticed any difference on brews but this is a few years ago now.

I then went through a stage where I used my BIAB bag as my hop bag. A BIAB bag will work very well as a hop bag. It is certainly fine enough but has the advantage of being large and easily suspended if you have a skyhook. I certainly would use my BIAB bag in preference to the above. I stuck with this method for quite a while but it still annoyed me when I got to the immersion chilling stage :angry:.

I now just throw all my hops into the kettle and this works well with my set-up.
I'm not much of a chemist and I might well be imagining that I have read somewhere that free hops might attract some undesirables and then help them drop out of the wort upon chilling??? This could well be pure fiction and, even if true, like so many things in brewing, I am not sure how many of us would actually be capable of tasting any such difference in the resulting beer.

Another interesting topic for us and already great reading - thanks hashie :peace:
Last edited by PistolPatch on 30 Jan 2011, 21:22, edited 5 times in total.
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Post #7 made 14 years ago
Nowadays if I'm using a fairly light hop bill like say 50g I'll just put the pellets into the boil and they floc out with the hot break at the end, before I run into the cube.

For larger quantities I use a fairly large grain bag (not as big as the BIAB bag) which I peg round the outside of the urn and the hops - flowers and pellet material - use it as their own personal swimming pool and get a good boil around as the steam has to escape through the bag, nowhere else to go. This photo doesn't do it justice as they do swirl and broil around.
Image
Last edited by Beachbum on 30 Jan 2011, 22:17, edited 5 times in total.

Post #8 made 14 years ago
This is interesting...

Beachbum, the bag you are using as a hopsock is a lot coarser than my BIAB bag. I have a wide kettle (45 cm) so it has a high evaporation rate on a single batch though it is spot on for a double batch. One thing I did a while back to reduce evaporation on my single brews was to do as you have done above - I 'hung' my bag over the sides. I stopped doing this and, for the life of me, can't remember why though there would have been some sort of reason.

I suspect I might have been worried that my bag was so fine it would not allow volatile oils etc to escape from the boil. I also seem to remember the bag constantly 'floating' to the top of the wort. With your porosity bag though, I wouldn't think these things would be less of a problem if a problem at all?

:think:
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Post #9 made 14 years ago
I've been using a voile hop sock that I made as well. I kept it fairly small, 8 cm diameter and it works well. I usually use pellet hops and I like how it contains the resulting sludge. So far, I've been adding all my hops into the one bag at their respective times, however I've been thinking about making a bag for each addition. I feel like that would give more hop/wort interaction and better extraction. Haha or it could just be a lot of extra sewing for no gain but oh well.

CS

Post #10 made 14 years ago
The bag I use is from Craftbrewer, it's the 24 inch x 24 inch one, very cheap and definitely not voile, not sure what it is but it's really stretchy. There's a picture of it in use in a mini BIAB in the thread "pimping a kit with a BIAB produced enhancer".
To prevent it floating up I have started to drop a few stainless steel table spoons etc into the bag which weighs it down (but not touching the hot element of course)

Post #11 made 14 years ago
I've given up using the hop sock... i think the last batch i did came out a little muted, at least based on the amount of hops that went in.

I like the idea of the loose hop bag though... even using my BIAB bag as a "sock".

I'm doing a triple batch bo pils 100% saaz soon, which requires over 400g of pellets. So i'll report back on how it goes using the bag in the kettle

Post #12 made 14 years ago
argon5000 wrote:I've given up using the hop sock... i think the last batch i did came out a little muted, at least based on the amount of hops that went in.

I like the idea of the loose hop bag though... even using my BIAB bag as a "sock".

I'm doing a triple batch bo pils 100% saaz soon, which requires over 400g of pellets. So i'll report back on how it goes using the bag in the kettle

Argon: from another forum, I'm also doing a Bo Pils tomorrow with a shedload of Saaz. Because I no chill using a cube I'm a bit worried about loss of aroma and will be using your method of:

Reserve the Saaz that would go in as a 10 minute addition
Run wort off into cube and then chill down to 4° in cube
Take about 2L of wort and boil the reserved Saaz for 10 mins

Pour the whole lot into the fermenter to hit a good pitching temperature. As I'm in Australia where all Saaz are pellets (flowers not let in) I won't be using a hop sock - it all flocs out with the yeast and break anyway as long as the wort is given enough time to settle well after boiling. I seal off the kettle with a clean towel over the top anyway so no problem giving it half an hour to settle. Cube is well sanitised with Starsan so little chance of infection, and also pitch next day anyway.

:thumbs:
Last edited by Beachbum on 22 Feb 2011, 17:11, edited 5 times in total.

Post #13 made 14 years ago
Beachbum wrote:
argon5000 wrote:I've given up using the hop sock... i think the last batch i did came out a little muted, at least based on the amount of hops that went in.

I like the idea of the loose hop bag though... even using my BIAB bag as a "sock".

I'm doing a triple batch bo pils 100% saaz soon, which requires over 400g of pellets. So i'll report back on how it goes using the bag in the kettle

Argon: from another forum, I'm also doing a Bo Pils tomorrow with a shedload of Saaz. Because I no chill using a cube I'm a bit worried about loss of aroma and will be using your method of:

Reserve the Saaz that would go in as a 10 minute addition
Run wort off into cube and then chill down to 4° in cube
Take about 2L of wort and boil the reserved Saaz for 10 mins

Pour the whole lot into the fermenter to hit a good pitching temperature. As I'm in Australia where all Saaz are pellets (flowers not let in) I won't be using a hop sock - it all flocs out with the yeast and break anyway as long as the wort is given enough time to settle well after boiling. I seal off the kettle with a clean towel over the top anyway so no problem giving it half an hour to settle. Cube is well sanitised with Starsan so little chance of infection, and also pitch next day anyway.

:thumbs:
Good one mate... although you'll need to adjust the volume of each portion to get to your pitching temp.

I assume (cause you're doing a Bo Pils) you'll be pitching a cool lager yeast (unless S189 @19). So you'll need your final wort temp to be approx 10C?

So assuming a pitching volume of 21L @ 10C you'll need to return a boiling fraction of 1.42L (say 1.5L) back into the rest of the wort sitting at 4C.

Below is my little calculator
C L
Final Wort 10 21.00
Wort 1 4 19.58
Wort 2 93 1.42

BTW, last i did this with a Black IPA and the aroma was fantastic.
Here's my tasting notes. I'll try and bring some to BABBs.
http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/i ... t&p=727612
Last edited by argon5000 on 23 Feb 2011, 07:25, edited 5 times in total.

Post #14 made 14 years ago
don't use hop socks. I have before with a really hoppy beer and the beer turned out plenty hoppy. Lately I pour my wort through a fine mesh strainer on the way into the fermenter. It gets clogged and needs to be cleaned pretty frequently towards the end of the pour, but it keeps the hops and everything else out of the fermenter. I'm also told this helps aerate the wort, which I believe because the wort is really bubbly on top when i use the strainer.

Post #15 made 14 years ago
Thanks to Argon's method - which I attribute this to - at the Brisbane Amateur Beer Brewers American Ales mini comp last night, my American Pale Ale came third in the comp :thumbs:
Places were one and two to American IPAs and around 20 - 23 APA's got entered so that would make my entry #1 in the APAs :o

Main points were scored on aroma, flavour and overall impression with "piney, citrussy,resiny....." stressed. Thanks Argon.
On topic for the thread the main hop methods were:
  • Kettle hop additions went in commando style with no hop sock
    The 10 min addition was made next day by boiling 3L of wort out of the nochill cube
    There was a 30g Cascade dry hop addition.
Clarity was perfect and very little loss to crud in the fermenter. I'm sold.
Last edited by Beachbum on 25 Mar 2011, 06:55, edited 5 times in total.

Post #16 made 14 years ago
Beachbum wrote:Thanks to Argon's method - which I attribute this to - at the Brisbane Amateur Beer Brewers American Ales mini comp last night, my American Pale Ale came third in the comp :thumbs:
Places were one and two to American IPAs and around 20 - 23 APA's got entered so that would make my entry #1 in the APAs :o

Main points were scored on aroma, flavour and overall impression with "piney, citrussy,resiny....." stressed. Thanks Argon.
On topic for the thread the main hop methods were:
  • Kettle hop additions went in commando style with no hop sock
    The 10 min addition was made next day by boiling 3L of wort out of the nochill cube
    There was a 30g Cascade dry hop addition.
Clarity was perfect and very little loss to crud in the fermenter. I'm sold.
'Twas a tasty beer mate... after tasting your beer :drink: and seeing the comments re attenuation i reckon you should have picked up a couple more points, as i considered the body spot on. IIRC 36 points?.. could have pushed 40 i reckon. The aroma was just about exactly as i like it too, nice resiny, citrus and pine... beautiful!!

Definitely stick with the commando kettle additions as it turned out perfect... no more sock for me!!
Last edited by argon5000 on 25 Mar 2011, 07:16, edited 5 times in total.

Post #17 made 14 years ago
I've got a full virgin keg of the brew sitting in my kegerator at the moment, unmolested for the last two weeks :cool: So you will be attending my brew day Saturday week won't you.

:yum:

Post #18 made 14 years ago
For those of you who use hop socks, how long do you leave it in the pot after the boil? With my last batch I reflexively pulled out my hop sock right at the end of boil. However I got to thinking that if most recipes assume no sock, they must therefore assume some time of hot wort/hop contact until the chiller can get the temperature down. Should I perhaps be leaving the sock in the pot for another 10 minutes or so?

One more question - do you drip/squeeze/sparge your hop sock just like you do or don't to your grain bag?

Post #19 made 14 years ago
Beachbum wrote:I've got a full virgin keg of the brew sitting in my kegerator at the moment, unmolested for the last two weeks :cool: So you will be attending my brew day Saturday week won't you.

:yum:
yes i will... but unfortunately will be driving home :angry:

paulbigelow wrote:For those of you who use hop socks, how long do you leave it in the pot after the boil? With my last batch I reflexively pulled out my hop sock right at the end of boil. However I got to thinking that if most recipes assume no sock, they must therefore assume some time of hot wort/hop contact until the chiller can get the temperature down. Should I perhaps be leaving the sock in the pot for another 10 minutes or so?

One more question - do you drip/squeeze/sparge your hop sock just like you do or don't to your grain bag?
It shouldn't matter if you were to pull the bag or not. Effectively the volatile compounds within the hops will have been dissolved by the hot wort all most immediately and will continue to be isomerized until the wort temps drop to around 75C IIRC. As long as you're not dipping the hops sock in only for an instant, the compounds will be in the wort working away creating bitterness, flavour and aroma. In saying that, when i used to use a sock, i'd just leave it hang and let any wort drip out until the kettle was empty.
Last edited by argon5000 on 25 Mar 2011, 07:59, edited 5 times in total.
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