Hi,
I'm still trying to figure out my evaporation rate, so my thought is to boil my wort until I get to the right volume (should be somewhere between 60 and 90 min)... the only problem I have is with the hop schedule... and on this I am wondering about using hop bags... If I put hops in a bag @ 90 min, and take out at 30 min, is that the same as a 60 minute addition?
Post #2 made 15 years ago
I think it will still continue to work on the hop oils that are already in the brew. I 've found that after 75 minutes (this i sbased on brweing software mostly) that not many more IBU's will added. One problem would be flavoring hops. How will you time that addition if yo not sure when the boil will end.
It would be best if you can get a handle on your boil rate as opposed to trying to time pulling a hop bag. Over a period of time you'll get better calculating it.
It would be best if you can get a handle on your boil rate as opposed to trying to time pulling a hop bag. Over a period of time you'll get better calculating it.
Joe
Post #3 made 15 years ago
I agree with bigjoe, get your evap. rate under control first.
What you could do is to set your starting volume at say, 35 litres. This is assuming a 23 litre batch. Do your mash, mash-out and boil for 90 minutes. Take measurements after you pull the grain bag, this will give you loss to absorption and a pre-boil volume. Measure again after the boil to get your post-boil volume, which will also give you your evap. rate.
If after the end of the boil you have 25 litres, then you've nailed it because 2 litres will be lost to trub in your kettle. If it is less, you can always add some water to bring it to your target volume and adjust your starting volume accordingly next brew. Or if it is more than your target, just accept that you have a few extra litres of beer this time and reduce your starting volume next time.
In the least, doing it this way means that your hop schedule is right and only your target volume may be different.
What you could do is to set your starting volume at say, 35 litres. This is assuming a 23 litre batch. Do your mash, mash-out and boil for 90 minutes. Take measurements after you pull the grain bag, this will give you loss to absorption and a pre-boil volume. Measure again after the boil to get your post-boil volume, which will also give you your evap. rate.
If after the end of the boil you have 25 litres, then you've nailed it because 2 litres will be lost to trub in your kettle. If it is less, you can always add some water to bring it to your target volume and adjust your starting volume accordingly next brew. Or if it is more than your target, just accept that you have a few extra litres of beer this time and reduce your starting volume next time.
In the least, doing it this way means that your hop schedule is right and only your target volume may be different.
"It's beer Jim, but not as we know it."
Post #4 made 15 years ago
Afraid it isn't the same, important compounds in the hops are isomerised (dissolved I guess) early on, so even if you take the bag out 60 minutes into the boil and continue to boil it for another 30 minutes, it will probably be equivalent to a 90 minute boil for bitterness. It would be nice if what you're describing worked, but it doesn't quite go like that I'm afraid. :(
Don't sweat too much on the details, it isn't as though everything has to go just perfect the first time- 70- odd BIABs later and I still look at it as an evolving process that is adjusted as I go. If you're really concerned about getting the right volume, perhaps a larger grainbill, sparging and post- boil dilution will help, that's what I do and never worry about the actual SG values along the way as the dilution takes care of it nicely.
As the other guys have already pointed out, you really can't start a boil without knowing when it will end, some more details will help us though, so your kettle size, recipe etc, should be able to point you in the right direction.
Don't sweat too much on the details, it isn't as though everything has to go just perfect the first time- 70- odd BIABs later and I still look at it as an evolving process that is adjusted as I go. If you're really concerned about getting the right volume, perhaps a larger grainbill, sparging and post- boil dilution will help, that's what I do and never worry about the actual SG values along the way as the dilution takes care of it nicely.
As the other guys have already pointed out, you really can't start a boil without knowing when it will end, some more details will help us though, so your kettle size, recipe etc, should be able to point you in the right direction.
[center]Give me a beer and I will move the world. Archimedes[/center]
Post #5 made 15 years ago
I use a 40L electric urn, and on other forums there are posts from brewers saying "I mark my urn or sight tube off into 5 litre graduations" or "I have a marked dipstick in on litre graduations that tells me when I am x millimetres from the top of the kettle....."
I've never done that, and after 120 BIAB brews I just know when it's right to fill my no-chill cube. It seems to be common consensus that boils are either 90 minutes or 60 (I do 60s for quite a few styles like English Milds, stouts etc) and after a while you, also, will just know what looks right.
Keep on trucking as they used to say in the 70s :D
I've never done that, and after 120 BIAB brews I just know when it's right to fill my no-chill cube. It seems to be common consensus that boils are either 90 minutes or 60 (I do 60s for quite a few styles like English Milds, stouts etc) and after a while you, also, will just know what looks right.
Keep on trucking as they used to say in the 70s :D
Last edited by Beachbum on 27 Jun 2010, 15:46, edited 10 times in total.
Post #6 made 15 years ago
Thanks guys - you all confirmed pretty much what I figured but couldn't find anything to support on Google..
Cheers..
Cheers..
