Guys,
I have a major issue with trub management. i.e. too much goes into my fermentor. It makes it very difficult for me to rinse and reuse my yeast because the quantity of water required to actually get the trub to settle quickly is very large. Anyway, my hop strainer fell off on my last batch and I ended up pouring my kettle into the fermentor through a sieve. I'm going to lose about 4 litres of the 20 in the fermentor to trub and it'll be too much hassle to rinse and reuse the yeast, but loss of beer is the major issue here.
I'm currently using a buffalo boiler. My hop strainer is a SS splatter guard rolled up and stuck in the back of the tap. I've a trivet raised up off the bottom of the kettle to kep the bag above the strainer and the element. When chilling I ususally agitate the wort with my immersion chiller-maybe this is contributing to my problem. I'd rather not go down the route of siphoning!
Help please?
How do you guys do it and typically, how much of your FV is lost to trub?
Thanks
L
Post #2 made 13 years ago
Lars, if your bag is fine enough, use it as a hop bag. If your bag has tabs, just hang the bag from a hook and rope using one or two of the tabs so it's not sitting on the bottom. This will get rid of a lot of muck.
With the fermentor trub, if you are going to re-use the yeast within a reasonable time, just get a 1/3 to 1/2 a 750 ml bottle of slurry. Give it one or two washes with chilled boiled water and that should be fine. (Just smell it and then taste the water above the slurry before you next pitch.)
From 23 L of wort in the fermentor, 1.2-1.8 L of trub is common.
With the fermentor trub, if you are going to re-use the yeast within a reasonable time, just get a 1/3 to 1/2 a 750 ml bottle of slurry. Give it one or two washes with chilled boiled water and that should be fine. (Just smell it and then taste the water above the slurry before you next pitch.)
From 23 L of wort in the fermentor, 1.2-1.8 L of trub is common.
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Post #3 made 13 years ago
Thanks PP, I happen to have a hop bag that I got free with my custom biab. Since my last brew was my first in my new buffalo, I'll try another using my hop bag and see what happens. I've only 1 bag so I'll have to tie it to a piece of string or something for multiple hop additions. I'm brewing a Kolsch on wednesday, thats the plan anyway....
Thanks
L
Thanks
L
Post #4 made 13 years ago
Well about yeast reuse, I lately started grabbing the yeast from the secondary.
I leave it to ferment vigorously on the primary but not for too long(~7 days/18-20C)
and then I rack to the secondary for 3-4 days. If you can cold crash it could be even better.
I either get the yeast before bottling or before racking to a glass carboy(a very old carboy
my father has lend me) for dry hopping.
Most of the time I'm getting a 250-350ml of quite a pure yeast.
BUT when I was reusing "trub and yeast" from the primary nothing strange happened(I've done it for like
5+ batches). I mainly reuse safale us-05 because it's quite expensive here in Greece.
I leave it to ferment vigorously on the primary but not for too long(~7 days/18-20C)
and then I rack to the secondary for 3-4 days. If you can cold crash it could be even better.
I either get the yeast before bottling or before racking to a glass carboy(a very old carboy
my father has lend me) for dry hopping.
Most of the time I'm getting a 250-350ml of quite a pure yeast.
BUT when I was reusing "trub and yeast" from the primary nothing strange happened(I've done it for like
5+ batches). I mainly reuse safale us-05 because it's quite expensive here in Greece.
Post #5 made 13 years ago
Hi Kostass, unfortunately I've no proper temperature control, however I do have a dark ensuite that's constantly at around 17~19deg so thats where I ferment. I dont use secondary even when dry hopping. Thats a lot of yeast!! I've managed to recover far less from my rinses. As an aside, by harvesting from secondary arent you losing the most flocculant yeast, or does that matter as the yeast remultiplies when pitched or in a starter?
Thanks
L
Thanks
L
Post #6 made 13 years ago
Some hop bags are very coarse and too small so don't be afraid to use your main BIAB bag Lars. Just give it a quick rinse after you get rid of the grain and you are good to go. Don't be afraid to adjust your bittering additions so they are a bit later to give you time to clean your bag. I generally do a 90 minute boil and put my bittering hops in at 75 mins. This let's the boil settle down a bit, gets rid of the break and gives me a bit more time.
PP
PP
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Post #7 made 13 years ago
My hop bag is as fine as my BIAB bag so I'll try that on wednesday. I've another question, at the end of my last boil, after emptying the boiler I was finding bits of jelly like blobs at the bottom of the boiler. What are these? Are they the effects of the Irish moss or what? should they be there?
Thanks
L
PS: PP that sounds like a great idea with the BIAB bag for a future project, recirculation through the bag to filter the wort
Thanks
L
PS: PP that sounds like a great idea with the BIAB bag for a future project, recirculation through the bag to filter the wort
Post #8 made 13 years ago
Good Day Lars, the little slime balls are the Irish Moss.
The slime is hard to work with, so I gave up on Irish Moss!
Good Luck.
The slime is hard to work with, so I gave up on Irish Moss!
Good Luck.
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
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Post #9 made 13 years ago
Well I'm no expert,Lars wrote: from secondary arent you losing the most flocculant yeast, or does that matter as the yeast remultiplies when pitched or in a starter?
most of the time I overpitch (because I always store my yeast after every batch and I got lots)
so when I transfer in the secondary some of the yeast is still floating and eating and has not settled down
so I guess I might be getting the most flocculant yeast, but I could be wrong.
Of course the yeast remultiplies anytime you feed it and add oxygen
Last edited by kostass on 19 Mar 2012, 21:02, edited 3 times in total.
Post #10 made 13 years ago
Yep, as joshus said, the jelly will be your finings.
As for re-circulating through the bag, anything like this requires 'work' (manual labour or a pump). Just take it easy for now Lars as things like pumps can create more 'work' than they save.
Just taste the beer and enjoy it.
(I'd always put another fridge as a higher priority than a pump but everyone's "brewery" has different limitations so don't take this as gospel).
PP
As for re-circulating through the bag, anything like this requires 'work' (manual labour or a pump). Just take it easy for now Lars as things like pumps can create more 'work' than they save.
Just taste the beer and enjoy it
.(I'd always put another fridge as a higher priority than a pump but everyone's "brewery" has different limitations so don't take this as gospel
).PP
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Trub management- need help please
Post #11 made 13 years ago
For you guys that no chill, does that lend any advantage to trub reduction. I'd imagine if it's in the cube overnight a lot of crap would settle out and then not make it into the fv?is there any downside to no chill other than time delay?
Thanks
L
Thanks
L
Post #12 made 13 years ago
Hi LarsLars wrote:For you guys that no chill, does that lend any advantage to trub reduction. I'd imagine if it's in the cube overnight a lot of crap would settle out and then not make it into the fv?is there any downside to no chill other than time delay?
Thanks
L
I've been thinking down the same lines and might try it next brew. I think that the +'s out way the -'s (if there are any -'s).
Last edited by Yeasty on 22 Mar 2012, 17:45, edited 3 times in total.
Why is everyone talking about "Cheese"
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Trub management- need help please
Post #13 made 13 years ago
Yeah, I lost a huge amount yesterday in my boiler due to crappy strainer ..... Trying to get a better yield
L
L
Post #15 made 13 years ago
Hey Lars,
Here is a link that covers a lot of pros for no-chill.
http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=252
Here is a link that covers a lot of pros for no-chill.
http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?f=50&t=252
Last edited by rockbotton on 22 Mar 2012, 18:55, edited 3 times in total.
Fermenting:
Bottle Conditioning
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Bottle Conditioning
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Post #16 made 13 years ago
I've just read the 2nd post in the linked thread.."you don't waste so much water..." not something a guy in Ireland has to worry about..
Last edited by Yeasty on 22 Mar 2012, 19:32, edited 3 times in total.
Why is everyone talking about "Cheese"
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Post #17 made 13 years ago
Lars,Lars wrote:For you guys that no chill, does that lend any advantage to trub reduction. I'd imagine if it's in the cube overnight a lot of crap would settle out and then not make it into the fv?is there any downside to no chill other than time delay?
I no chill regularly,
I don't see the time delay as a disadvantage but rather and advantage of No chilling. I don't have to worry about sanitizing a FV or pitching yeast when all i want to do is wash out the kettle and clean up.
Also, if you let the cube stand overnight (or longer) and are careful no to shake it to much, you can easily pour off the clear wort leaving most of the drub behind.
on the other hand, i sometimes just pour it all in.
Last edited by shibolet on 22 Mar 2012, 19:33, edited 3 times in total.
Cube:
fermenter: Sourdough Spelt Ale, Classic Lambic, Oud Brune, Barrel Aged Belgian Dubbel
Kegs: Bob's Black IPA, Blanc Blond, Soda...
to be brewed:
fermenter: Sourdough Spelt Ale, Classic Lambic, Oud Brune, Barrel Aged Belgian Dubbel
Kegs: Bob's Black IPA, Blanc Blond, Soda...
to be brewed:
Post #18 made 13 years ago
could you mail some over to me?Yeasty wrote:
I've just read the 2nd post in the linked thread.."you don't waste so much water..." not something a guy in Ireland has to worry about..
Last edited by shibolet on 22 Mar 2012, 19:34, edited 3 times in total.
Cube:
fermenter: Sourdough Spelt Ale, Classic Lambic, Oud Brune, Barrel Aged Belgian Dubbel
Kegs: Bob's Black IPA, Blanc Blond, Soda...
to be brewed:
fermenter: Sourdough Spelt Ale, Classic Lambic, Oud Brune, Barrel Aged Belgian Dubbel
Kegs: Bob's Black IPA, Blanc Blond, Soda...
to be brewed:
Post #19 made 13 years ago
Good Day, Lower water use is a big deal in parts of America also.
Lars, have you tried to run the wort thru your Cleaned Bag and a funnel as the wort is drained from the kettle?
It worked well with HOT wort, and works better with No-Chilled wort.
Lars, have you tried to run the wort thru your Cleaned Bag and a funnel as the wort is drained from the kettle?
It worked well with HOT wort, and works better with No-Chilled wort.
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
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Post #20 made 13 years ago
No Chilling makes for spectacularly clear wort into the fermenter (I leave the trub in the cube by just pouring carefully)
The biggest drawback is it does affect the hop profile of the beer relative to a chiller. It may be more difficult to get a big hop forward late hopping effect with NC
The biggest drawback is it does affect the hop profile of the beer relative to a chiller. It may be more difficult to get a big hop forward late hopping effect with NC
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Post #21 made 13 years ago
I have to agree with stux. I love no chill but I am still working on how to get the hop flavor and aroma I like.
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Post #22 made 13 years ago
I find FWH and no chill a great combo.I've been using 1/2 of the total flavour and aroma hops in FWH andd 1/2 in a hop sack in the cube.Works nice for me.
AWOL
Post #23 made 13 years ago
I've been using this method too. The jury is still out but it seems to work pretty well. I find that the cube hops do give a lot more bitterness than one would expect (but it's a very smooth bitterness) so I have been trying to figure a way to compensate accordingly.Lylo wrote:I find FWH and no chill a great combo.I've been using 1/2 of the total flavour and aroma hops in FWH andd 1/2 in a hop sack in the cube.Works nice for me.
---Todd
Last edited by thughes on 23 Mar 2012, 21:14, edited 3 times in total.
WWBBD?
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Post #24 made 13 years ago
Wow! How interesting are those last two posts??? (Also have enjoyed the others btw.)
I want to hear more on the last two though or, really the last one.
Todd, I'm not sure if you are capable of answering this (I certainly wouldn't be) but what is the difference between a very smooth bitterness and bitterness?
Why would a very smooth bitterness need compensating for?
I think I know what you mean but am not sure...
Would I be right in saying a 'smooth' bitterness is the opposite of a 'crisp' bitterness? (Flat versus sharp?)
Does that make any sense?
PP
I want to hear more on the last two though or, really the last one.
Todd, I'm not sure if you are capable of answering this (I certainly wouldn't be) but what is the difference between a very smooth bitterness and bitterness?
Why would a very smooth bitterness need compensating for?
I think I know what you mean but am not sure...
Would I be right in saying a 'smooth' bitterness is the opposite of a 'crisp' bitterness? (Flat versus sharp?)
Does that make any sense?
PP
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Post #25 made 13 years ago
Tough to describe PP, just try it for yourself and quit bugging me! Seriously, it is much more bitter than my brewing software (BS2) calculates it should be but it's not a sharp, double IPA, "grapefruit juice" acidic type bitterness.
I first noticed this when I did a 2.5 gallon test batch of all Cascade APA which I used an immersion chiller to cool rapidly. I liked this beer so much that I scaled up to a 5 gallon batch but instead of adding any hops after the FWH I put them all in the cube and did a NC, pitching yeast a week later. Comparing the two batches, the hop flavor and aroma is very similar but the NC batch is "more" bitter. It's a very subtle yet distinct bitterness that is just really hard to describe.
I believe the key will be do as Lylo does and split the total addition between FWH and cube. I have been doing a small FWH and the majority as cube hops, going to try a 50/50 split next time to see how that works out.
I first noticed this when I did a 2.5 gallon test batch of all Cascade APA which I used an immersion chiller to cool rapidly. I liked this beer so much that I scaled up to a 5 gallon batch but instead of adding any hops after the FWH I put them all in the cube and did a NC, pitching yeast a week later. Comparing the two batches, the hop flavor and aroma is very similar but the NC batch is "more" bitter. It's a very subtle yet distinct bitterness that is just really hard to describe.
I believe the key will be do as Lylo does and split the total addition between FWH and cube. I have been doing a small FWH and the majority as cube hops, going to try a 50/50 split next time to see how that works out.
WWBBD?
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