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Post #2 made 14 years ago
by hashie
Hi Jim, I use a no-chill cube, so when I pour it into my fermenter I give it some height and it aerates itself.
Glug, glug, glug.
"It's beer Jim, but not as we know it."

Post #3 made 14 years ago
by wizard78
I use my homemade mash paddle, it's a potatoe masher style, so I just give a good up and down mashing for a minute and that works a treat.
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Post #4 made 14 years ago
by BobBrews
I splash from my cube into my fermenter but if I am brewing a big beer I always give it a minute of oxygen with a air stone. I have even given a extra shot of oxygen (with stone) mid ferment on a huge grain bill.
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
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Post #5 made 14 years ago
by shibolet
hashie wrote:Hi Jim, I use a no-chill cube, so when I pour it into my fermenter I give it some height and it aerates itself.
i do the same, also i sometimes use a paint stirrer connected to an electric drill to mix up the wort.
Last edited by shibolet on 28 Feb 2011, 22:20, edited 5 times in total.
Cube:
fermenter: Sourdough Spelt Ale, Classic Lambic, Oud Brune, Barrel Aged Belgian Dubbel
Kegs: Bob's Black IPA, Blanc Blond, Soda...
to be brewed:

Post #6 made 14 years ago
by stux
wizard78 wrote:I use my homemade mash paddle, it's a potatoe masher style, so I just give a good up and down mashing for a minute and that works a treat.

Goo idea :)
Last edited by stux on 01 Mar 2011, 07:40, edited 5 times in total.
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12

Post #8 made 14 years ago
by Beer O'Clock
I run mine straight from the boiler tap into the FV from a height, through a piece of voile, after the immersion chiller has done it's thing.
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Post #10 made 14 years ago
by DIYGear
Ok, so I'm very new to this site. I have never done an all grain batch yet, but I do a fair amount of research on brewing. Living in the US I have no clue as to what a "cube" is that many of you are referring to, so you can all read this with a grain of salt. In reading Chris white's (of white labs) book "yeast" as well as listening to his interview on the Beersmith podcat It is his opinion that wort requires 8 to 10 ppm of Oxygen for optimal yeast health and fermentation. He claims that agitating your wort by pouring it back and forth between pots/carboys will typically only result in only 2 to 3 ppm of oxygen. He did not say, however how many times a person typically poured the wort back ad forth from pot to pot. I myself have done it to the point of making a big frothy mess. This almost always resulted In a fermentation that is out of this world vigorous in only 4 to 5 hours. It Is Chris white's professional opinion that this is not actually ideal for full and healthy fermentation. I have since switched to using an air stone and a small O2 tank, and have gotten very good results in both my yeast activity times (start of noticable fermentation), and my atenuation (very close to projected final gravity). I hope some one could clue me into the whole cube thing though.

-Mike-

Post #11 made 14 years ago
by hashie
Hey DIY, a cube is a plastic (HDPE) can, normally used for carrying water for camping. They come in a range of sizes, shapes and colours. I use the same as the one at the top of this page.

As for aerating, I simply pour from the cube to the fermenter and that's it. With my own collected and stored liquid yeast fermentation starts within 1 - 2 hours and always attenuates to the FG it is supposed to.
Last edited by hashie on 03 Mar 2011, 13:37, edited 5 times in total.
"It's beer Jim, but not as we know it."

Post #12 made 14 years ago
by stux
And the wort ends up in the "cube" when you No Chill your wort. Ie hot-pack it in the HDPE container.
Image
It will keep in the cube for months if necessary, and then you can pitch at leisure

Also... no need to fast-chill your wort, which can also help control infection vectors
Last edited by stux on 03 Mar 2011, 14:51, edited 5 times in total.
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12

Post #13 made 14 years ago
by texasranger
Hi All,

I just use a paint stirrer (One bought specifically for brewing) and go at it for around 2 minutes.

:party:
TexasRanger

In wine there is wisdom.
In beer there is strength.
In water there is bacteria.
- German Proverb

Post #14 made 14 years ago
by dantheman13
I just bought an aeration pump from an online homebrew shop in the states (Austin HBS), and used it on my first BIAB last weekend. I didn't notice much of a difference in fermentation, but I don't generally watch my fermentation all that closely. It was indeed vigorous when I checked on it the next day.

I've read some threads on the HBT forums lately about people switching to pure O2, and having a huge improvement in their beer. Hopefully, the pump will be good enough for me.
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Post #15 made 14 years ago
by jrodie
I pour the wort through a strainer on the way into the fermenter. I have been told this helps with aereation. Don't know how much exacly but a bunch of air bubbles build up on top of the wort when I use it.

Post #16 made 14 years ago
by Ralph
I've wondered if one of these would be useful.
Image
Presently though, I'm still pouring cooled wort through a colander or sieve, then aerate with a slotted spoon for five minutes or until the foam reaches the top of the fermenter. Tried double dropping as well, just never seem to be organised enough in advance to do it regularly.
Last edited by Ralph on 24 Apr 2011, 17:29, edited 5 times in total.
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Post #17 made 14 years ago
by 2trout
Im brewing at some fairly high elevations, around 6000' (2000 meters). Should I be taking extrordinary measures to aerate up here? (Ive really been doing um... nothing. :roll: ) The few beers Ive done have been o.k., but nothing special. They always seem to be on the sweet side?
"All I know is that the beer is good and people clamor for it. OK, it's free and that has something to do with it."
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Post #18 made 14 years ago
by hashie
2trout wrote:Im brewing at some fairly high elevations, around 6000' (2000 meters). Should I be taking extrordinary measures to aerate up here? (Ive really been doing um... nothing. :roll: ) The few beers Ive done have been o.k., but nothing special. They always seem to be on the sweet side?
Mashing at lower temperatures will reduce the sweetness of the finished beer.

I generally mash at 64°C, any higher and my beers are too sweet.

Can't answer on the aeration, but it couldn't hurt to give it something.
Last edited by hashie on 26 Apr 2011, 06:07, edited 5 times in total.
"It's beer Jim, but not as we know it."

Post #19 made 14 years ago
by 2trout
Hashie,

I did mash at lower temp on the BIAB I just bottled. Ill be posting about it :)
"All I know is that the beer is good and people clamor for it. OK, it's free and that has something to do with it."
Bobbrews
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Post #20 made 14 years ago
by lambert
Apologies for resurrecting this old thread but I felt compelled to add my 2 pence worth (10 odd kits/extracts and 1 x mini BIAB's experience to be exact!)

I've aerated all bar my first brew with the olive oil method - dipped the head of a pin in olive oil and stirred it in the wort prior to pitching the yeast. I've never experienced any "mad" fermentations but I've pretty much hit my FG every time. I've also developed the habit of leaving my brew in the primary for longer than the standard "7 days". There are ample resources on the web on the olive oil aeration topic - here is one of the many that I've found rather informative: http://www.fermentarium.com/homebrewing ... -homebrew/

Another thing - a couple of years ago I had a discussion with a friend on aeration of an aquarium - I was looking at setting up an amateur fish rearing/conditioning pond. Apparently the most effective method of aerating an aquarium is to let as much water as possible get in contact with the air - basically by circulating the water around in the aquarium. It's apparently much better than the aeration stones/pumps (I've got no evidence to back up this claim/opinion!). I just could not help thinking about that discussion this past Sunday when I was syphoning the wort onto the glass demijohn. The wort was running slowly down the side of the demijohn in a wide, fan based flow pattern i.e lots of contact with air and basically no splashing. I've decided not to add the olive oil to this brew and as I'm typing this the brew is bubbling away merrily...
I might just be lucky.
Last edited by lambert on 24 May 2011, 07:05, edited 5 times in total.
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Post #21 made 14 years ago
by Beachbum
The Yeast book by Jamil Z and Chris White go deeply into aeration and surprisingly they don't rubbish the olive oil method, they leave the subject open and you could almost get the impression that they wouldn't mind people trying it out - however they stop just short of saying that.
I generally use one of these a couple of times:
Image
Or for some English Ales I double drop into a fresh fermenter after 12 - 24 hours.
Last edited by Beachbum on 30 May 2011, 07:33, edited 5 times in total.

Post #22 made 14 years ago
by Beachbum
Ralph wrote:I've wondered if one of these would be useful.
Image
Presently though, I'm still pouring cooled wort through a colander or sieve, then aerate with a slotted spoon for five minutes or until the foam reaches the top of the fermenter. Tried double dropping as well, just never seem to be organised enough in advance to do it regularly.
Me again, I've got one of those wort diffusers in my last order, haven't got round to setting it up yet - with a bit of cut off tube as an adaptor it fits nicely on the end of a bottling cane and is the ducks nuts for double dropping. Because it sprays wort out in a "cone" shape it needs to be well down into the FV so a bottling cane is the go. I'll show you my cane on Thursday when we meet up :argh:
Last edited by Beachbum on 30 May 2011, 08:09, edited 5 times in total.

Post #23 made 14 years ago
by stux
I was listening to Brew Strong on Wort Aeration the other day.

They bring up the olive oil method, and while they don't necessarily rubbish it, they do say that it will affect your flavour, and it really isn't a substitute for aeration. It does have flavour effects.

It was originally pioneered at New Belgium brewery, and they make the point, that after the initial tests they do NOT use the technique.

Personally, my opinion would be, keep your olive juice out of my beer ;)
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12

Post #24 made 14 years ago
by Cameron
This is a really interesting thread. For one thing I had never heard of the olive oil method.

At present I tip the wort from my no chill cube via a funnel into a better bottle fermenter. These carboys are fantastic when you own their proprietry closures - the closure goes in and you roll the carboy on the floor for some serious aeration.

Still, I have always wanted to try aerating with pure o2 through a stone as I had read about the same limitations of shake aeration mentioned by DIYGear.

Are there cheap kits available? Are there cheaper alternatives for o2 bottles available in Australia? I can't do anything that takes up a lot of room.

Post #25 made 12 years ago
by kingdomofkeg
Just watched a video on northern brewer in which the technical fella from wyeast advises 45 seconds of vigorous shaking is plenty. He claims you can shake it for 20 mins if you like but it wont improve any. This is on beers up 1060 og so perhaps all the pumps and o2 bottles are overkill.
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