Got some Challenger hops to use so will be trying a single hop beer. Having searched around I find that Coniston Bluebird is a Challenger single hop brew. So along those lines aiming for a final volume of 10L or so:
MO Pale Ale Malt 95% (Weights to be calculated when I check the figures for BIAB #2)
Crystal Malt 5%
Mash for 90 min including 5 min mash out.
Target OG 1038
60 min boil
Challenger (7.6% AA) 19g (60 mins)
Challenger (7.6% ) 10g (15 mins)
Aiming for 39IBU.
A little research suggests Safale US05 would be a good yeast to let the hops shine through.
Probably Friday before I can get the brew going.
Post #2 made 14 years ago
Sounds feasible oz11, might have a hint of marmalade from the Challenger but it can easily overwhelm, so be careful is my advice.
Oh, and well done on the previous batches!
Oh, and well done on the previous batches!
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Post #4 made 14 years ago
Good on you Oz, I quite often relegate myself to Beginner 
Seems the more I learn, the less I think I have to do. So back to basics until I get lazy again
Well done on getting your first couple under your belt.
Seems the more I learn, the less I think I have to do. So back to basics until I get lazy again Well done on getting your first couple under your belt.
"It's beer Jim, but not as we know it."
Post #5 made 14 years ago
Thanks Hashie, just got my malt delivered, wed and thu I'm too busy with work, so friday's looking good. Hoping to be able to maintain my "intermediate" status.
I will have to try to come across some bluebird for comparison. The last I had of it was bottled which is a different beer I believe and not a single hop.
Mmmm....breakfast beer!Ralph wrote:Sounds feasible oz11, might have a hint of marmalade from the Challenger but it can easily overwhelm, so be careful is my advice.
I will have to try to come across some bluebird for comparison. The last I had of it was bottled which is a different beer I believe and not a single hop.
Last edited by oz11 on 18 Jan 2011, 23:59, edited 5 times in total.
Post #6 made 14 years ago
Right, did this today. was going so well up until the end...more later.
Grain:MO Pale Ale Malt and Crystal (95% and 5%).
Mashed at 65C for 90 min and a 5 min mashout at 78C.
Boil for 60 min, Challenger 20g 60 min
Challenger 10g 15 min.
Used a towel over the extractor fan which worked a treat, many thanks to Yeasty for the suggestion. No condensation issues today.
End of boil and cooled.
And this where I made a stupid mistake. Picked up the un-sterilised thermometer to check the temp. The thermometer that had been in the mash and then lying on the counter for an hour. The sterilised thermometer was on the other side of the boiler...doh!!!! It was only in there for a couple of seconds before I realised...will it ruin it, or will I get away with it??? Time will tell.
Anyway, carried on, diluted the wort as I had managed 1041 and wanted around 1038. Pitched US05 and tucked it up.
I feel so daft that a great brew otherwise maybe ruined by a moment of lost concentration. Back to beginner for me.
Grain:MO Pale Ale Malt and Crystal (95% and 5%).
Mashed at 65C for 90 min and a 5 min mashout at 78C.
Boil for 60 min, Challenger 20g 60 min
Challenger 10g 15 min.
Used a towel over the extractor fan which worked a treat, many thanks to Yeasty for the suggestion. No condensation issues today.
End of boil and cooled.
And this where I made a stupid mistake. Picked up the un-sterilised thermometer to check the temp. The thermometer that had been in the mash and then lying on the counter for an hour. The sterilised thermometer was on the other side of the boiler...doh!!!! It was only in there for a couple of seconds before I realised...will it ruin it, or will I get away with it??? Time will tell.
Anyway, carried on, diluted the wort as I had managed 1041 and wanted around 1038. Pitched US05 and tucked it up.
I feel so daft that a great brew otherwise maybe ruined by a moment of lost concentration. Back to beginner for me.
Post #7 made 14 years ago
Beer is very forgiving. Saw a great post by someone, probably on Jim's Beer Kit.oz11 wrote:And this where I made a stupid mistake. Picked up the un-sterilised thermometer to check the temp. The thermometer that had been in the mash and then lying on the counter for an hour. The sterilised thermometer was on the other side of the boiler...doh!!!! It was only in there for a couple of seconds before I realised...will it ruin it, or will I get away with it??? Time will tell.
.
Something along the lines of we were making beer over 1000 years ago with no sterilising, and that turned out okay.
Last edited by Snapdragon on 22 Jan 2011, 02:02, edited 5 times in total.
Post #8 made 14 years ago
I've read that too, and it's comforting, but it's a nagging worry! So far into the brew day as well 
!! If it's going to turn into vinegar then there's nothing I can do now, but it would be nice to know now, so I can do another brew at the weekend to replace it.
Oh well.. hope for the best!
!! If it's going to turn into vinegar then there's nothing I can do now, but it would be nice to know now, so I can do another brew at the weekend to replace it.Oh well.. hope for the best!
Post #9 made 14 years ago
Nice to see the towel worked ok 
Pity about your thermometer. On the up side it had only been in boiled wort and if it was over 80c it may have been sanitised. The only doubt you have is the counter top and any airborne nasties, I agree with SD and things are much much more sterile than years ago. Here's hoping its ok.
Y
Pity about your thermometer. On the up side it had only been in boiled wort and if it was over 80c it may have been sanitised. The only doubt you have is the counter top and any airborne nasties, I agree with SD and things are much much more sterile than years ago. Here's hoping its ok.
Y
Why is everyone talking about "Cheese"
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Post #10 made 14 years ago
Thanks Yeasty, the counter top was cleaned and sprayed with peracetic acid before I started brewing. The thermometer had been in the wort up to mash out, about 78C. Here's hoping. It's just so flippin' annoying though!!! I'm so angry with myself!!! 
Consoling myself now with a glass of BIAB no.1, amarillo pale ale, it's very tasty, but got a bit of sediment in suspension, so may have to look at my bag or filtering with voile in future.
Consoling myself now with a glass of BIAB no.1, amarillo pale ale, it's very tasty, but got a bit of sediment in suspension, so may have to look at my bag or filtering with voile in future.
Post #11 made 14 years ago
Don't stress oz, I'm sure it will be fine.oz11 wrote:I've read that too, and it's comforting, but it's a nagging worry! So far into the brew day as well
Oh well.. hope for the best!
Brew another this weekend regardless, you know you want to
Last edited by hashie on 22 Jan 2011, 05:14, edited 5 times in total.
"It's beer Jim, but not as we know it."
Post #12 made 14 years ago
I keep a large jug with Videne solution on the worktop when I'm brewing, everything that needs to be sanitised is thrown in if not being used.
Y
Have you bottled or Kegged? If you kegged and its one of the first pints it may be just a bit of yeast in the line/tap. Not sure where your coming from with having a look at your bag or filtering with voile.but got a bit of sediment in suspension, so may have to look at my bag or filtering with voile in future.
Y
Last edited by Yeasty on 22 Jan 2011, 05:17, edited 5 times in total.
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Post #13 made 14 years ago
Hi Yeasty,
I bottled the whole batch but I can't say if the bottle I had today was from the start, the middle, or the end of the brew as I'm not that organised on bottling day!
What I mean about the bag is that it has a fairly coarse "weave" at the bottom. I posted some pix here http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=517.
After the boil I drain through a hop strainer and tap that's at the bottom of the boiler. I'm finding with the short brew lengths I am doing while I explore this method the amount of hops in the boiler do not form a complete filter over the whole of the hop strainer. Thus the small bits of grain that escape through the mashing bag fall straight through the hop strainer and into the FV. I use a sieve over the top of the FV but I think the mesh allows all the little bits through. I may try draining through a square of voile over the top of the FV for the next brew to see if this makes a difference...
Does this make sense...? I can try to get hold of a camera tomorrow if pics would help.
Just had a check on the FV, the yeast is getting busy, it smells a little strange but I've learnt not to worry too much about odd smells at this stage.
I bottled the whole batch but I can't say if the bottle I had today was from the start, the middle, or the end of the brew as I'm not that organised on bottling day!
What I mean about the bag is that it has a fairly coarse "weave" at the bottom. I posted some pix here http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=517.
After the boil I drain through a hop strainer and tap that's at the bottom of the boiler. I'm finding with the short brew lengths I am doing while I explore this method the amount of hops in the boiler do not form a complete filter over the whole of the hop strainer. Thus the small bits of grain that escape through the mashing bag fall straight through the hop strainer and into the FV. I use a sieve over the top of the FV but I think the mesh allows all the little bits through. I may try draining through a square of voile over the top of the FV for the next brew to see if this makes a difference...
Does this make sense...? I can try to get hold of a camera tomorrow if pics would help.
Just had a check on the FV, the yeast is getting busy,
it smells a little strange but I've learnt not to worry too much about odd smells at this stage.
Post #14 made 14 years ago
I haven't bothered with filtering through voile, thought about it 
but so far I've used irish moss and whirlpooled. I then leave it for 30min and syphon from the edge. I evn managed to tip up the kettle last time to get more wort. It comes out nice and clear and my kettle loss's were spot on with the calculator. My view is filtering is just extra hassle and an infection risk.
Looking at your bag, it's a far more open weave than mine. I'll try and post some pic's tonight.I tested mine with flour which it will just allow to pass through leaving just some coarse bits, water however passes straight through (thanks for that PP )
but so far I've used irish moss and whirlpooled. I then leave it for 30min and syphon from the edge. I evn managed to tip up the kettle last time to get more wort. It comes out nice and clear and my kettle loss's were spot on with the calculator. My view is filtering is just extra hassle and an infection risk.Looking at your bag, it's a far more open weave than mine. I'll try and post some pic's tonight.I tested mine with flour which it will just allow to pass through leaving just some coarse bits, water however passes straight through (thanks for that PP
)Why is everyone talking about "Cheese"
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Post #15 made 14 years ago
Hi Hashie...I would, but I've not got an empty fermenter at the moment! I've had another check on it and "something" is fermenting nicely..and now it doesn't smell too bad, so keeping fingers crossed.hashie wrote:Brew another this weekend regardless, you know you want to
I think what I may try for BIAB 4 is to use my existing bag as it fits the boiler nicely and keeps the grain off the element but line it with a sheet of voile and contain the grain in that. I believe that will allow the mash to take place but contain the smaller particles. Advantage of this is that I wouldn't need to add a filtering stage post boil and thus no extra risk of infection.
Good idea or bad idea anyone?
Last edited by oz11 on 23 Jan 2011, 00:32, edited 5 times in total.
Post #16 made 14 years ago
Not that it's a bad idea, but I've found that it can be a PITA. Adding extra voile to your bag may capture a few little bits of grain, but post-boil trub also contains break material that obviously isn't in the mash. So I don't think adding extra voile to your bag will help too much with post-boil trub.oz11 wrote:I think what I may try for BIAB 4 is to use my existing bag as it fits the boiler nicely and keeps the grain off the element but line it with a sheet of voile and contain the grain in that. I believe that will allow the mash to take place but contain the smaller particles. Advantage of this is that I wouldn't need to add a filtering stage post boil and thus no extra risk of infection.
Good idea or bad idea anyone?
There are anecdotal stories around here about beers coming out very clear that had a lot of trub in the fermentor, then there are some about less off-flavors after filtering with some voile. Give it a try and see which you prefer.
Last edited by BrickBrewHaus on 23 Jan 2011, 02:34, edited 5 times in total.
Post #17 made 14 years ago
If it were me, I'd simply stitch up a new voile bag and be done with it. No need for filtering IMO.
"It's beer Jim, but not as we know it."
Post #18 made 14 years ago
Congrats oz on your progress.
You'd be pretty unlucky if your brew got wrecked through the thermometer incident. It would take a particularly nasty bastard to beat the yeast. I'm glad to hear that you didn't do what one bloke did on his first BIAB. He dropped his yeast packet in the fermenter and assumed that seeing it wasn't sanitised, the brew would be wrecked. He tipped the whole lot out then and there
. Poor bugger.
One problem with BIAB is comparing mesh size of the bags. dick wrote a good post on this here. That thread might give you some ideas on whether your bag is in or out of the ball-park..
Letting the wort settle post-boil and some careful syphoning will go a long way to reducing trub problems.
Nice to hear the amarillo ale was tasting great though
You'd be pretty unlucky if your brew got wrecked through the thermometer incident. It would take a particularly nasty bastard to beat the yeast. I'm glad to hear that you didn't do what one bloke did on his first BIAB. He dropped his yeast packet in the fermenter and assumed that seeing it wasn't sanitised, the brew would be wrecked. He tipped the whole lot out then and there
. Poor bugger.One problem with BIAB is comparing mesh size of the bags. dick wrote a good post on this here. That thread might give you some ideas on whether your bag is in or out of the ball-park..
Letting the wort settle post-boil and some careful syphoning will go a long way to reducing trub problems.
Nice to hear the amarillo ale was tasting great though
Last edited by PistolPatch on 23 Jan 2011, 19:00, edited 5 times in total.
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Post #19 made 14 years ago
Hi guys, anyone got experience with US-05 yeast? The yeast was pitched friday afternoon and had a lot of activity in the first 48 hours. Since then however activity has come to halt. Tested the SG today (Tues) to see if it needed rousing but it is down to 1009 already so I guess it is done.
In the FV there is still a layer of froth on the surface and the beer itself was cloudy, in a hoegaarden/weisse bier kind of a way. I'm thinking maybe 'cos I pitched most of a 11g pack of yeast into about 12L of 1038ish wort it's munched through it all very quickly?
I'm going to leave it at least til the weekend then my plan is to move it to a colder place (the garage) overnight before bottling...I'm hoping this will encourage a little better clarity.
Does this sound normal/ok with US-05?
Tastewise it was a bit odd, but nothing that seemed to suggest infection so hoping it's going be okay
In the FV there is still a layer of froth on the surface and the beer itself was cloudy, in a hoegaarden/weisse bier kind of a way. I'm thinking maybe 'cos I pitched most of a 11g pack of yeast into about 12L of 1038ish wort it's munched through it all very quickly?
I'm going to leave it at least til the weekend then my plan is to move it to a colder place (the garage) overnight before bottling...I'm hoping this will encourage a little better clarity.
Does this sound normal/ok with US-05?
Tastewise it was a bit odd, but nothing that seemed to suggest infection so hoping it's going be okay
Post #20 made 14 years ago
Okay oz, first question that needs to be answered is what temperature your wort was at when you pitched and in those first 48 hours?
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Post #21 made 14 years ago
What temperature did you ferment at? US-05 can rip through wort pretty quickly, I slow it down a bit with slightly cooler temperatures.
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Post #22 made 14 years ago
wow..2 quick answers and the same question, the temperature of the room has been 18-20c during the day, a bit colder at night but I keep the FV wrapped in a sleeping bag at night to maintain the temp as much as possible.
Temp of wort when pitched was probably slightly above 20c.
Temp of wort when pitched was probably slightly above 20c.
Post #23 made 14 years ago
A cooler ferment temperature gives a slower ferment. This results in a cleaner tasting beer without any residual 'fruitiness'.
I always try and keep my ferment temps around 16 - 18°C
My motto "ferment low and slow".
I always try and keep my ferment temps around 16 - 18°C
My motto "ferment low and slow".
"It's beer Jim, but not as we know it."
Post #24 made 14 years ago
But if you like fruity flavours then 20C is fine
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Post #25 made 14 years ago
My temperature control is not sophisticated, just put it in the lounge and wrap it in a sleeping bag overnight. It may reach 20c when SWMBO is struggling to get warm and has the fire on full blast...she's always cold! I keep it wrapped when she does this to try the keep the temp in the FV reasonably stable.
The krausen (if that is the correct term for the head) has now started to drop so I think that's good.
The krausen (if that is the correct term for the head) has now started to drop so I think that's good.
