I've been doing this bonus "beer" trick for the last four batches and I think I'll probably continue. It involves using your spent mash grains. It isn't exclusively BIAB, but having your grains in a bag does make it a bit easier. Here we go.
After a BIAB brew mash, I open up the top of my now spent grain bag sitting in the 7 gallon kettle that came with my turkey fryer burner and continue with my brew day. As I am cooling the wort, I heat up 2 gallons of water to about 170F. I put the grains in a round cooler and pour the 170F water on top. I add another 1-2 pounds of new grains (depends on how much sugar I think is left in the grains, keeping in mind how much weight in grains and how my efficiency was in the first brew), usually 2 row, and 1-2 ounces of torrified wheat (to make up for all the head proteins stripped from the first mash). I give this a stir, place plastic wrap over the top, and screw the lid on. I leave it for 48 hours and begin a bonus a beer brew.
I heat up another 2 gallons of water to ~170F and open up the cooler now full of wonderful funk. I pull the bag and do a dunk sparge in the 170F water and squeeze the snot out of the bag. I put the wort from in the cooler in there as well and take a gravity reading. As long as I can hit 1.020, I'm happy. I choose a volume and top off, usually I can do 5 gallons final volume. I do a quick calculation to for a single 60 minute hop addition for 10-20 IBUs. I plan on a 10 or 5 minute addition of a spice and proceed as a normal beer. My usual spices are coriander and/or grains of paradise but I just did one (still in the fermenter) with grapefruit peels.
I usually do a sugar addition after high krausen, 1-2 pounds depending on the OG.
What you get is a sour, dry, low ABV beverage that is great on hot days. It is nice and refreshing, you can down a few and enjoy as a refreshment and not get full or buzzed. I figure it is about $5 to get another 2+ cases from something you were just going to throw away.
Brew on!
Post #2 made 15 years ago
Well done, you've just rediscovered parti-gyle brewing and turning out a nice sounding 'small beer' 
Before the modern lower gravity beers, of the 20th century, fly sparging etc this is what they used to do, make a batch of headbanger 8 percent full strength, and then remash to yeild this small beer (or 'table beer') from the second runnings - it was the stuff they drank to avoid being poisoned by drinking the local shite creek water and the whole family including the kids would drink it. I believe that most modern parti-gyle brewers do add a bit of extra grain to refresh the mash.
Haven't been tempted to try it myself as life is too short for lite beers, being a pisshead :twisted: :twisted:
Before the modern lower gravity beers, of the 20th century, fly sparging etc this is what they used to do, make a batch of headbanger 8 percent full strength, and then remash to yeild this small beer (or 'table beer') from the second runnings - it was the stuff they drank to avoid being poisoned by drinking the local shite creek water and the whole family including the kids would drink it. I believe that most modern parti-gyle brewers do add a bit of extra grain to refresh the mash.
Haven't been tempted to try it myself as life is too short for lite beers, being a pisshead :twisted: :twisted:
Post #3 made 15 years ago
Yeah, it's a little bit different than a traditional parti-gyle. Our homebrew club did one of those and came up with a new idea we called collaborative mashing. We used my BIAB setup and another member's cooler sparge rig to get a tripel in mine, a quadrupel in the cooler rig, and half the second runnings from each to get a dubel. Then, on a whim, each vessel did the overnight sourmash to get another two beers We just figured with 23# of grain, even with great efficiency, there had to be a good amount of sugars in there. We got 5 beers from two tuns and one sack of grains. It was on Basic Brewing Radio called "Partigyles gone wild." It was from this experience I began to think "what about those sugars I throw away every time I brew?"
This method uses the gyle idea combined with sour mashing. What's neat is each time it will be different based on what the first beer brewed was. You could do candi sugar additions, molasses, brown sugar, all kinds of different spices...so many possibilities with what we usually just throw away. The new grains provide the funk for this method. Because this is all preboil, none of your equipment gets fouled up like normal sour beers do. Instead of thinning it out to 5 gallons, one could go for 2-5 gallons to get a bit more strength. I think I may try that next time.
This method uses the gyle idea combined with sour mashing. What's neat is each time it will be different based on what the first beer brewed was. You could do candi sugar additions, molasses, brown sugar, all kinds of different spices...so many possibilities with what we usually just throw away. The new grains provide the funk for this method. Because this is all preboil, none of your equipment gets fouled up like normal sour beers do. Instead of thinning it out to 5 gallons, one could go for 2-5 gallons to get a bit more strength. I think I may try that next time.
Blog: http://littlehouseonthesandpit.wordpress.com/
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Facebook BIAB Group: http://www.facebook.com/group.php?gid=7 ... 978&ref=nf
Post #5 made 14 years ago
Reminds me of trappist single beers, ie Monk's table beers 
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
