• • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America
  • Quote
• • • 0
    • 0
    • 0
    • 0
    • 0

• • SVA Brewer With Over 20 Brews From United States of America
  • Quote
• • • 0
    • 0
    • 0
    • 0
    • 0

Lol Todd . (Still laughing at the first cartoon you snuck in here.)

Todd and M_S have got you sorted. Conventional wisdom is that if you go over this temp and this pH in the same mash, you'll run into tannin problems. I reckon there are a lot of BIAB brewers out there for whom the last ting they should be worried about is mash-out temperature because they pulverise their malt into flour. That'll screw you with tannins before anything else I reckon.

...

Your question, alanem, is always an interesting one, for me at least. Firstly, I'm not sure where our mash-out temps are sourced from originally. Secondly, they vary a bit. Finally, I don't understand how decoction mashes work in relation to this. (For new all-grainers, decoction mashes involve scooping up bits of the mash and boiling them!)

• • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Australia
  • Quote
• • • 0
    • 0
    • 0
    • 0
    • 0

mashout at 80c

• • Quote
• • • 0
    • 0
    • 0
    • 0
    • 0

• • Quote
• • • 0
    • 0
    • 0
    • 0
    • 0

How ya goin Beachbum? Nice to hear from you.

What you mention about turbidity is interesting to me, I have been getting cloudy wort for a while now, and it isn't clearing like you would expect or as quick. An odd one out strangely enough was an IPA that I used 500g Simcoe in 50L, that one dropped crystal clear very quickly.

I use Whirlfloc (5 mins), have added Polyclar with it (Brewbrite copy), I no chill, but have even put the containers in the keezer at 1C for a week or 2 and it is still cloudy when racking to fermenter. Fined with Gelatin too, and it can take 2-3 months at 1C to finally drop clear. BTW, it isn't chill haze either (Same when warm).

You have just given me something to try on my next brew. Pat mentioned recently about boiling for up to 15 minutes before adding any (bittering) hops. i.e. wait for a good hot break. So I think i may try both of these methods next. Cheers!

• • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Great Britain
  • Quote
• • • 0
    • 0
    • 0
    • 0
    • 0

Sorry, in a rush, but two quick ones...

With the mashout, it's a preferable (but not necessary) step for a few reasons. One reason is that, on average (see this thread), it will give you a few extra percent in kettle efficiency. As for the turbidity BeachBum, your BIAB bag will have a lot do with that. Obviously, a coarser bag is going to give less clear trub than a finer one. I reckon if agitating your grain during mash-out (from memory, I don't think you agitate it during the mash but I might be wrong) leads to turbidity, then a finer bag could be the go. Or, the folowing may also be relevant...

There is a difference between turbidity and a wort that won't clear.

I, and a few other brewers had this problem about 6 or 7 years ago. None of us had changed our process but we were suddenly getting hazy beers. What the???

After ages and ages of discussion etc, the conclusion was that the malts we were using (can't remember which ones) came from a poor season. And, I think this was right as it hasn't occurred again to anywhere near the same degree.

....

The only way we found to fix it was by using polyclar. Think of all finings as being magnets but of different types. One fining might attract x molecules whilst another will attract y or z. Whatever problem our malt was causing, polyclar ended up being the solution.

The main thing is, if you suddenly develop a problem you haven't had before but haven't changed your method, then it could be your malt.


PP

P.S. A 90 minute boil (which mally already does from memory) can also sort out some hazy beer problems.

• • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Australia
  • Quote
• • • 0
    • 0
    • 0
    • 0
    • 0