How do I handle Mash pH when cold-steeping dark grains?

Post #1 made 12 years ago
I'm looking for advice for a few scenarios for a Russian Imperial Stout. I live in San Diego and have fairly hard water with high residual alkalinity. I'm looking to reduce astringency.

Scenario 1: Cold Steep Dark Grains and Add to Fermenter or Late in Boil
Cold steep all dark grains over night in the fridge (doubling the dark grain bill as is often recommended with cold steeping). Add these cold-steeped grains either to the kettle at flame-out or to the fermenter once the kettle wort is cooled. When brewing a typical 6 gallon base-malt batch I'll usually add 5 ml lactic acid to get the appropriate ph. Not sure what happens to the fermenter ph when I combine this acid-treated base-malt mash with the cold-steeped grains.

Scenario 2: Steep Grains at End of Mash
I always mash base malts for 90 minutes before doing a BIAB mashout at 168 for 20 mins (since I'm not sparging, just squeeze the hot bag and get all of the liquor). I could add the dark grains at 80 mins and then pull them with the rest of the grains after the mashout. I am not sure how to balance the base-malt pH (which would have to be treated with lactic acid) with the pH lowering properties of the dark grains when added 80 mins into the mash. The idea would be to reduce the amount of time exposing the dark grains to high temperatures. But how does one balance pH?

Of course I could always just mash the dark grains along with the base malts for the entire 90 minutes and probably wouldn't have to add any lactic acid at all. But again I'm trying to reduce astringency. I get the importance of mash pH, but I don't have an understanding of boil pH and fermenter pH.

As a follow up question, does pH need to be checked when cold-steeping? I.E. do I need to treat the water that goes into the fridge with the dark grains (and can I use diluted water here)?
Last edited by CheeseMoney on 01 Nov 2013, 07:38, edited 2 times in total.

Post #2 made 12 years ago
Cheesemoney - I am not sure I follow you on this, so please bear with me :scratch:

Normally if someone with high residual alkalinity wants to brew a beer without doing any corrections I would say "brew a dark beer with roasted grains".

Are you saying that if you add the dark grains at the beginning of the mash, this is leading to astringency? As that is the method I would recommend. :drink: It is possible the astringency is coming from too high a pH because the dark grains have been added too late.

Dublin has high RA and they found the best beer for them to brew was dark grained.

I have no knowledge of cold steeping so cannot comment, but another alternative would be to use bottled water! :think:
G B
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Post #3 made 12 years ago
CheeseMoney.

In this situation I would first try to bring the water to a pH of about 5.4. Usually I test the pH with the disposable test strips. I adjust with pH stabilizer to keep it about 5.4. I mash the base malts for 60 minutes and add the dark grains. I also add the grains that don't have to be mashed like caramel or crystal with the dark grains.

The dark grains change the pH so much that it is better to let the base malts convert in the proper pH range and add the dark grains after the conversion is already done. Scenario 2 is the way to go?
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Post #4 made 12 years ago
Bob, this is what I was thinking about (adding the roasted malts after an hour). However, presuming that I'd treated the water prior with some lactic acid, since the dark malts will drop the pH, does this negatively effect the steeping of the dark roasted malts? And does this hurt the boil/fermenting pH in a negative way?

Post #5 made 12 years ago
CheeseMoney,

Don't over think this. To be honest I never even thought about pH for the first 4 or 5 years when I started brewing. I ground all the light and dark gains together and used any water handy. I have a bunch of medals hanging on the wall that prove that I was lucky or that pH is nice to know but not vital.

If I think of it? (I rarely think at all) I will grind the dark grains and crystal malts separately and add them both in the last 30 minutes of a 90 minute mash. The crystal malts are already converted and the dark malts change the pH after the base malts are done.

At this stage of home brewing we are lucky enough to have minimal interactions with the chemistry of brewing. For those brewers who love the chemistry part of brewing you can have fun getting it all to work perfectly. I want good beer with minimal work and cost. BIAB is my savior!
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV

Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV

http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America
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