Extract Efficiency

Post #1 made 15 years ago
Hi guys,
I've been getting various efficiencies when BIABing. I've done 5 brews so far and the calculated efficiency have been anywhere between 72% to 89%.
I understand that it has much to do with the milling.
I buy my grains milled, so i have minimal control over that.

what have you guys been getting?

Also, i have heard/read that efficiency over 80%-85% is not a good thing, as you may be extracting tannins from the husks. Is this true for BIAB too?
Cube:
fermenter: Sourdough Spelt Ale, Classic Lambic, Oud Brune, Barrel Aged Belgian Dubbel
Kegs: Bob's Black IPA, Blanc Blond, Soda...
to be brewed:

Post #2 made 15 years ago
Water to grist ratio will affect your Eff. Mash out temp will affect your Eff. It's cheaper for me to conserve gas doing the boil than to conserve grain during my mash so mine is rather lower than most. I know when calculating grain bills that for my smaller bills (higher water to grist) I get 72% and for larger ones (IPAs etc) 68%.

Cheers
Lloydie
[center]"Eat my sugar, man[/center]

Post #3 made 15 years ago
Lloydie,
you make a good point i hadn't thought about.
I guess i also got a very high eff on the "smaller" beer (English IPA) than on my bigger beers (Belgian blond and oatmeal stout).
I boil electric, so I'm not too worried about another few minutes of high temp for mash out.
http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/recipator/recipa ... &item=8728
http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/recipator/recipa ... &item=8729
http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/recipator/recipa ... &item=8997
Cube:
fermenter: Sourdough Spelt Ale, Classic Lambic, Oud Brune, Barrel Aged Belgian Dubbel
Kegs: Bob's Black IPA, Blanc Blond, Soda...
to be brewed:

Post #4 made 15 years ago
I did a stove-top brew yesterday and got 95% end of boil efficiency :shock: I've checked my numbers again and again because I thought there must be a mistake. My efficiency into kettle was the same which suggests to me that it wasn't due to misreading the volume or gravity. I mashed 2kg pilsener malt in 13L for 90 mins @65C then dunk sparged in 3L for 10 mins @ 70C. After a 90 min boil I had 11L @ 1.053. Have I made a mistake with my calcs? How can the efficiency be so high? :?

Post #5 made 15 years ago
AaronP wrote:I did a stove-top brew yesterday and got 95% end of boil efficiency :shock: I've checked my numbers again and again because I thought there must be a mistake. My efficiency into kettle was the same which suggests to me that it wasn't due to misreading the volume or gravity. I mashed 2kg pilsener malt in 13L for 90 mins @65C then dunk sparged in 3L for 10 mins @ 70C. After a 90 min boil I had 11L @ 1.053. Have I made a mistake with my calcs? How can the efficiency be so high? :?
Good question. I get 91-92% efficiency with those numbers with grain with a potential yield of 79-80% (typical for pilsner), which is still quite high. Do you know what the potential of the grain was?

Was the SG reading you took corrected for temperature (just thinking that maybe it was colder than the calibration temperature when you tested it)?

How sure are you that you started with 2kg? Did you weigh it out yourself, or check the weight of what you were given?

I had a similar experience recently when I got 95% efficiency at end of boil, which was way above my usual range (usually I am pretty close to 85% with my process which is BIAB with a batch sparge). I don't know why it went so high. I didn't check the weight of the grain, presuming it was correct so that might be one possibility.

Cheers
Dick
Last edited by dick on 31 May 2010, 20:27, edited 9 times in total.

Post #6 made 15 years ago
Hi there shibolet and welcome to the forum. It's great to correspond with another brewer from another dry part of the world :).

I just wrote a reply to another efficiency question here which may at least let you know not to get worried about it :).

A couple of other points are...

1. Don't be worried about high efficiency readings. These could be due to inaccuracies in your hydrometer or just a measurement error. It is pretty much impossible to extract tannins using BIAB. To do so, you would have to be pulling your bag at temperatures well above 78 C and have the pH of your water way out of range. See here

Full-volume brewing such as BIAB is a high efficiency method of all-grain brewing. It should not be confused with "no-soarge" brewing which is something else entireley. So, you should expect average to higher efficiencies. (I have scored 105% efficiency once but this would have been a measurement error though I would have sworn by its accuracy!)

2. Because there are so many different ways of measuring efficiencies, it is important to define what efficeincy figure you are referring to. The Efficiency Calculator part of The Calculator shows four different efficiency measurements. The "End of Boil Efficiency," is the best one to use.

3. Milling of the grain should not affect the efficiency as much as you have recorded. If you haven't done so already, start taking into kettle, end of boil and into fermenter readings. Doing three readings provides a check against the other two. (Also see 6 below).

4. As mentioned different recipes will give varying results especially if using The Calculator as there is no adjustment for the different potentials of individual grains. I can't see The Calculator ever being more than 3-4% out though. You can try entering the recipe into BeerSmith or another brewing program to get a more accurate idea of the variance between your recipes.

5. Regarding asking what figures other people are getting, a while ago I started collecting figures from a number of BIABrewers I knew (a lot who are now on this site) and put their figures into a spreadsheet. I'll attach the spreadsheet here but it might be a good idea if we worked out how to add more figures to this - maybe in the BIABrewer.info Research section?

6. If you are not weighing your own grain, that is another major area for error. It is even a major area for error if you are weighing your own! I once had someone write to me who scored about a 50% pre-boil efficiency. His method of brewing had been spot on. I finally concluded that he must have made a weighing error. He was postive that he hadn't and we even spoke on the phone in great detail about how he couldn't have made a weighing error. Two days later he called back as he had found a 2kg tub of base malt that he had forgotten to add to his brew!

Efficiency was a real issue for me when I first started all-graining and I think it is that way for most brewers. It shouldn't be an issue though especially with BIAB as there are very few ways you can bugger it up :). So, if possible, don't get too hung up on it. A good recipe will still taste great even if you do have a major efficiency stuff-up. It takes a while to develop the right disrespect for your own measurements whilst simultaneously developing some confidence in them - if that makes sense ;).

Shalom :),
PP

P.S. Just saw dick's post above. We were typing at the same time though he is a bit more concise than I am ;).
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Last edited by PistolPatch on 31 May 2010, 20:38, edited 9 times in total.
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Post #7 made 15 years ago
dick wrote:

How sure are you that you started with 2kg? Did you weigh it out yourself, or check the weight of what you were given?
That could definitely be the problem. I just assumed the weight was 2 kg since that's what I ordered. Maybe my LHBS was generous and gave me a bit more. I'll have to start weighing from now on. I'm doing the exact same recipe next week so that will give me a chance for comparison.
Last edited by AaronP on 01 Jun 2010, 05:48, edited 9 times in total.

Post #8 made 15 years ago
If you haven't done so already, start taking into kettle, end of boil and into fermenter readings. Doing three readings provides a check against the other two. (Also see 6 below).
PistolPatch,
I always measure the pre-boil gravity and volume and use that to calculate my efficiency. I also always measure my end of boil gravity.
What use is measuring the into-fermenter gravity? it should be exactly the same as the end of boil. shouldn't it?
Last edited by shibolet on 08 Jun 2010, 03:29, edited 9 times in total.
Cube:
fermenter: Sourdough Spelt Ale, Classic Lambic, Oud Brune, Barrel Aged Belgian Dubbel
Kegs: Bob's Black IPA, Blanc Blond, Soda...
to be brewed:

Post #9 made 15 years ago
Yep shibolet, the gravity reading should be the same post-boil and in the fermenter. The extra reading just acts as a check which can be useful for those still getting used to taking readings.

What I sometimes do is take a post-boil sample, chill it and then read it. This will tell me if I need to add any top-up water. Once I have pitched, I'll sometimes take a third reading from the tap (especially if it is a recipe/style I haven't brewed before) and leave this sample beside my brew in the fermenting fridge. As this has yeast in it, I can watch the gravity change without taking further samples. To do this, you need a good hydrometer jar (not too narrow).

It's interesting how much one hydrometer can differ from another. I have two here of the same brand. In water they read within about half a degree of each other. In wort of around 1.050 they are 4 degrees apart!

Cheers,
PP
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Post #10 made 15 years ago
This is a good discussion. I think too many people over look taking post mash/pre-boil gravity readings.

I've had at least 3 brews this year that have been off on pre-boil gravity. I just mash longer and give a few good stirs until I reach my gravity.

Crush shouldn't effect your gravity too much I agree, but your mash may take a bit longer is what I've found. I also take pH readings which I know some think is overkill for the homebrewer. You mentioend different beer styles you brew and how efficiency is different. It doens't seem like lighter beers have worse efficiency that dark beers, but I'll mention that darker grain will lower you pH more that lighter beers without dark malts. Just something to think about. When I brew a 50/50 Pils/Wheat I have to add some acid to my mash.
Joe

Post #12 made 15 years ago
gibbo1: I saw your post as soon as it came up and have wanted to say thanks for it since. I have had no time to do so this last week and probably shouldn't be doing so now - hopefully no one important will notice :).

Really sorry no one else caught your post - the spreadsheet should be moved to the Research section so others can more easily follow your lead. You filled the sheet in perfectly!

I see though that the formulas haven't copied through - something BIABrewer should look into.

Good stuff gibbo,
PP
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Post #14 made 15 years ago
Thanks gibbo for adding to the register again. I was incorrect saying that the formulas hadn't copied through - I only clicked on the efficiency column and just remembered I calculated all these manually (using BeerSmith).

Next time I am having too many beers, I'll look at the efficiency formula in The Calculator and see if I can play with it so it better matches Beersmith - it is apparently a bit off at the moment. Once this is done, I'll include it in the above spreadsheet which should make it a bit easier for others to fill out as well.

Cheers,
PP
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Post #15 made 15 years ago
Thanks Pistol, just as an added comment the Golden Ale has turned out perfect, not a huge hop hit but enough to taste it well enough. I'm extremely happy that BIAB is so much better than extract brewing.

Post #16 made 15 years ago
Great to hear gibbo! I haven't noticed a huge hop hit on the Golden Ale so you probably didn't do anything wrong. Hopefully you haven't found BIAB too much harder than extract either.


I have checked the extract efficiency formulas in The Calculator and all seems okay there. I have also checked the hop formula and it is correct. It comes from John Palmer so it is weird how there is so much variance from one program to another???

:roll:
PP

Cheers mate,
PP
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Post #17 made 14 years ago
It could well be, or they might be similar too

what's more important is the SG relative to the volume of wort collected... ie... the efficiency
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12

Post #18 made 14 years ago
With a standard BIAB, the L:G ratio is about 6 or 7, this is very thin by traditional brewing standards...

the theory goes that at this thinness the grains don't need separate sparging, and you can just pull the bag, and still get the high efficiencies...

by heating to mashout temp (75C) you make the wort even thinner... almost watery... which makes it run off the grain as you pull the bag... making a separate sparge step unnecessary.

With a Maxi-BIAB you are dealing with a concentrated mash, with an L:G of perhaps 3-4 instead of 6-7... this makes the wort much thicker, making it harder to self-rinse as you pull the bag, thus making the extra sparge step used in maxi-biabs worthwhile
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12

Post #19 made 14 years ago
Hi there joshua,

You are the link king! Here's a few that might help you out...

BIABrewer post
Braukaiser Article

From following your posts, I think you are a bit worried about doing a full volume mash. The above should ease your mind on this as should the continued and consistent reports showing that it is very difficult even for experienced tasters to tell the difference between full-volume beers (100% total liquor to grain ratio) such as BIAB and those that are batch-sparged or fly-sparged (usually about 50% total liquor to grain ratio). When a difference is noticed, it is rarely a negative one.

When I started all-grain, I read too much and didn't have the experience to know whether what I was reading was appropriate let alone accurate. Now I write too much :lol:.

If you can mash with all your liquor then you should. You should enjoy the benefits of single-vessel brewing and be confident you aren't compromising any quality. If your kettle isn't big enough to mash with all your liquor then you need to explore Maxi-BIAB which is a hybrid of BIAB and traditional brewing.
:peace:
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 10 Feb 2011, 19:39, edited 9 times in total.
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Post #20 made 14 years ago
joshua wrote:Good Day, Thanks PP this is what I have found over the last 15 batches since going "Full Volume Mash", Since single Infusion is not on my plate, due to a small amouts of Oats, wheat, and unmalted barlry causein "starch haze" or in complete coveersion( even after 90min ) My brewing style doesn't really fit many catagories.
Good day to you as well joshua :peace:

You always write so politely here and give us so many good links that I am a bit scared to ask the following question. But, I am wondering, "Is English your native language?"

I hope this isn't impolite for me to ask this :think:. I have always really enjoyed reading and following your posts but often I am unsure on how to respond to them. For example, in your post above, my brain is asking for more detail and explanation :scratch:.

So, I am worried that you are not getting the answers you need quickly enough :think:.

It can be very hard communicating on a local forum, let alone an international one!

Thanks for all your excellent links :champ:
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 10 Feb 2011, 22:43, edited 9 times in total.
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Post #21 made 14 years ago
Good on you josh!

I have to get to bed but it is always great hearing from you. The only problem we will ever have with our different languages is getting each other quick answers!

While I am sleeping, try and tell us more about what differences you have found since going, "Full-Volume Mash."

:peace:
PP
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Post #22 made 14 years ago
Hi there joshua and sorry it has taken me so long to say thanks for the above two posts. It's been a busy week!

That's a good link above. It's the same Braukaiser article I linked a few posts back but your link reads much better on the screen so thank you.

That's a lot clearer to me now what you were trying to say earlier. 14o F (60 C) and 158 F (70 C) are very much at the extremes of mashing. The lowest I have used is 62 C. The highest I have used is 70 C but I only use this to brew a low alcohol beer.

I'm not sure why a single infusion mash would cause any problems for you with full-volume BIAB as compared to say batch-sparging.

One thing to remember is that sometimes your town water or grain supply will change without you being aware of it. This happened to both myself and a traditional gold medal lager brewer here in Perth. Both of us had cloudy beers for about 6 months and then all came good again. My friend suspected it was not a very good year for malt. Who knows?

:peace:
PP
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Post #23 made 14 years ago
joshua has just linked this thread in the 'My First Post' thread. (Good on you joshua - you are still the link king :salute:)

I have a post I edit Some Common Reasons for a Low Efficiency Reading from time to time, any time I come across a new reason for a low (or high) efficiency reading.

I had it sitting at 7 reasons for ages and was very dissapointed to have to add an eighth recently (something pretty obvious actually :roll:.) Have I missed anything else obvious? I'm hoping for one or two more as '8 reasons for...' never sounds as good as 9 or 10 :lol:

:scratch:
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 24 Oct 2011, 22:06, edited 9 times in total.
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Post #24 made 14 years ago
PistolPatch wrote: I'm hoping for one or two more as '8 reasons for...' never sounds as good as 9 or 10
I came across this when searching for a hydrometer supplier yesterday whilst brewing. I like to waste my time doing beery things when mashing/boiling, plus it keeps me off the bottle :drink:

How to read a hydrometer

There's a couple of interesting points in the article, the one that made me think the most was the one regarding keeping your hydro clean as I usually only rinse my hydro after use, I never give it a good wash or sanatise it as I never return wort to the copper or FV post boil.

When my pre boil sample was cooled to 20c I took a reading in my normal fashion, I got 1.030. I then cleaned my hydro and took another reading this time I got 1.032 !!

Not a vast difference but a difference all the same, equating to 5% of Into kettle efficiency and 4% of End of boil efficiency.

No 9:- Keep your hydrometer clean and use it properly.. ??

:thumbs:

Yeasty
Last edited by Yeasty on 25 Oct 2011, 02:20, edited 9 times in total.
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Post #25 made 14 years ago
Nice one Yeasty, I have always done the same as you, just rinsed and put away for next time. Next brew I will give it a good clean and see how things go.

Cheers
"It's beer Jim, but not as we know it."
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