Hi All,
I just brewed an English Barleywine and I have a question about bottle conditioning.
I don't have a kegging system so I bottle condition everything. My english ale yeast (Wyeast 1318) was a fresh smack pack and I made a 1.5 litre starter and had it on a stir plate for 44 hours before pitching. The OG of the wort was 1.106. The fermentation was very quick to start and the kreusen was 30 cm (1 foot) high in 12 hours. I think that I had healthy yeast.
Do I need to pitch more yeast prior to bottling? I was planning to prime with table sugar then bottle condition as usual for an english ale.
Thanks for you help.
Valvefan
Post #2 made 13 years ago
Good Day ValveFan, If you are going to Secondary/Age the BarleyWine for less than 3 months, there should be enough yeast to Carbonate, if the beer is NOT crystal clear. But, If it is filtered or if it is aged for 6 months or longer, you will need more yeast, and Bottling Sugar.
Just my experience.....
Just my experience.....
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
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Post #3 made 13 years ago
I think if you crash chill after fermenting then bottle there will be enough yeast knocking about to start a secondary fermentation. If you are going to rack to secondary and "lager" for a while or use finings you may have to seed with yeast to be sure of a secondary fermentation. With a high alcohol brew like this (10-11% 
) I would use safale T-58 which you can get in a dried form so that you can pop a grain or 2 into each bottle to get things going.
) I would use safale T-58 which you can get in a dried form so that you can pop a grain or 2 into each bottle to get things going.Why is everyone talking about "Cheese"
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Post #4 made 13 years ago
I have made high abv beers that had plenty of yeast in suspension that did not carbonate. To be on the safe safe side I would add some clean high alcohol tolerant yeast like the one mentioned in the last post. You could add it directly into the bottling bucket.
Post #5 made 13 years ago
Would krausening be better then adding fresh yeast and priming sugar to bottle a barleywine or other high alcohol beers? Seems like the yeast would have a better chance. Obviously it'd be best to use the same yeast strain in the beer that you're pulling krausen from.
Post #6 made 13 years ago
the only thing i would be concerned with krausening is the original yeast he used has a low alcohol tolerance, so the beer may be too high in alcohol for the yeast to work. I looked up t-58 and it has a strong flavor associated with it so it might also not be the best choice.
Post #7 made 13 years ago
Fermentis recommend it for bottle conditioning of beers Here is a data sheetjrodie wrote:the only thing i would be concerned with krausening is the original yeast he used has a low alcohol tolerance, so the beer may be too high in alcohol for the yeast to work. I looked up t-58 and it has a strong flavor associated with it so it might also not be the best choice.
Anyway i don't think it would effect the flavour profile if you secondary ferment at low temps and taking that Barley wine is a keeper you ain't going to be in any rush to get it carbonated.
Last edited by Yeasty on 02 Nov 2012, 07:27, edited 2 times in total.
Why is everyone talking about "Cheese"
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Post #8 made 13 years ago
oh did not know about the bottling conditioning recommendation. sounds like a good way to go.
Post #9 made 13 years ago
Wyeast quotes the alcohol tolerance of the 1318 strain at 10% ABV. Jamil Zainishef says that healthy yeast will tolerate 15%.
I was thinking about adding some dry yeast to the bottling bucket. I can get Safale S-04 and S-05. How much should I rhydarate and pitch into the bottling bucket for a 3 gal batch?
Thanks
I was thinking about adding some dry yeast to the bottling bucket. I can get Safale S-04 and S-05. How much should I rhydarate and pitch into the bottling bucket for a 3 gal batch?
Thanks
Post #10 made 13 years ago
I think this whilst not gone off topic has gone off on a tangent.Valvefan wrote:Wyeast quotes the alcohol tolerance of the 1318 strain at 10% ABV. Jamil Zainishef says that healthy yeast will tolerate 15%.
I was thinking about adding some dry yeast to the bottling bucket. I can get Safale S-04 and S-05. How much should I rhydarate and pitch into the bottling bucket for a 3 gal batch?
Thanks
Valvefan: Lets get some details on to where you are with this brew.
Is the brew still in primary?
Is the brew in secondary?
What are your volumes?
Is there a yeast deposit on the bottom of whatever container it is currently in ?
Can you take a sample and add some sugar/DME to see if the existing yeast will still ferment ? a trail jar full with 1/2 spoon of sugar will do.
If there is a yeast deposit on the bottom of the container and you pick up a small amount whilst syphoning to your bottling bucket ( about 5ml/teaspoon) there will be plenty to get things going.
If you go down the adding yeast route half a tea spoon will be plenty.
Last edited by Yeasty on 02 Nov 2012, 17:30, edited 2 times in total.
Why is everyone talking about "Cheese"
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Post #11 made 13 years ago
I don't think it's fair to say this posting has gone off on a tangent. 
Like I have stated in an earlier post I have had problems with high abv beers carbonating even with plenty of yeast left in suspension. It is very dissapointing because those are the beers you put the most time work and money into. I do not think it would be an unwise decision to add some fresh high alcohol tolerant yeast to the bottling bucket for some extra insurance. Also I agree it sounds like t-58 would be a good choice, US-05 would also probably be good.
Like I have stated in an earlier post I have had problems with high abv beers carbonating even with plenty of yeast left in suspension. It is very dissapointing because those are the beers you put the most time work and money into. I do not think it would be an unwise decision to add some fresh high alcohol tolerant yeast to the bottling bucket for some extra insurance. Also I agree it sounds like t-58 would be a good choice, US-05 would also probably be good.
Post #12 made 13 years ago
jr, what I mean is that we haven't given Valvefan a definitive answer, well not a concise one anyway as we don't know exactly where he is with his brew, hence the questions.
Wrong choice of words,
Wrong choice of words,
Why is everyone talking about "Cheese"
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Post #13 made 13 years ago
Hi all,
I have about 3 US gal of English Barleywine in the primary fermenter. Today is the 6th day in the fermenter. I have been maintaining a temp of 20C and will increase to 21C after 10 days. I plan to ferment for 15 days then bottle. There is a layer of pale sediment at the bottom of the carboy. I prefer to not mess around in my fermenter to minimize the risk of contamination.
I am considering using a small amount of S-04 or S-05 along with the table sugar for priming.
How much yeast should I use? Are PET screw top bottles less likely to explode?(I have never had a bottle bomb)
Thanks
I have about 3 US gal of English Barleywine in the primary fermenter. Today is the 6th day in the fermenter. I have been maintaining a temp of 20C and will increase to 21C after 10 days. I plan to ferment for 15 days then bottle. There is a layer of pale sediment at the bottom of the carboy. I prefer to not mess around in my fermenter to minimize the risk of contamination.
I am considering using a small amount of S-04 or S-05 along with the table sugar for priming.
How much yeast should I use? Are PET screw top bottles less likely to explode?(I have never had a bottle bomb)
Thanks
Post #14 made 13 years ago
After only 15 days fermenting I would say there will be plenty of yeast for carbonating. I'm also thinking that 15 days is not going to be sufficient time for a barleywine to ferment properly and completely.
What was the OG and what is the estimated FG of this brew? If we are talking about a high gravity/ABV barleywine I would suggest leaving it in the primary for at least a month and then racking to a secondary and bulk aging for another month or two (you will then have to be concerned with adding fresh yeast for bottling).
As to bottling, PET is less likely to be dangerous if you do experiencing a bottle bomb but on the other hand, high ABV barleywines are typically cellared/aged for many many months (sometimes years) and I would expect glass to provide better protection against oxidation over that length of time.
I have wanted to brew a barleywine for quite sometime now but have avoided it due to the extended fermenting and aging requirements (I'm not very patient).
---Todd
What was the OG and what is the estimated FG of this brew? If we are talking about a high gravity/ABV barleywine I would suggest leaving it in the primary for at least a month and then racking to a secondary and bulk aging for another month or two (you will then have to be concerned with adding fresh yeast for bottling).
As to bottling, PET is less likely to be dangerous if you do experiencing a bottle bomb but on the other hand, high ABV barleywines are typically cellared/aged for many many months (sometimes years) and I would expect glass to provide better protection against oxidation over that length of time.
I have wanted to brew a barleywine for quite sometime now but have avoided it due to the extended fermenting and aging requirements (I'm not very patient).
---Todd
WWBBD?
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Post #15 made 13 years ago
Thanks Thughes
The OG was 1.106 predicted FG is around 1.020 to 1.025.
I have only 3 US gal in the primary. If I ferment for 1 month then age for another month in a secondary, how much dry yeast would you suggest that I add? I was thinking about something neutral like S-05.
Valvefan
The OG was 1.106 predicted FG is around 1.020 to 1.025.
I have only 3 US gal in the primary. If I ferment for 1 month then age for another month in a secondary, how much dry yeast would you suggest that I add? I was thinking about something neutral like S-05.
Valvefan
Post #16 made 13 years ago
That's a pretty BIG beer! I would definitly bulk age it as long as I could stand and then be aware that even after it's bottled it won't be coming into its prime until probably a year or so from brew day (the best bottle is always the last one, eh?).
All my research indicates that half a package of any neutral dry yeast will be more then sufficient. Simply rehydrate it in a bit of water, add it to your bottling bucket along with the priming sugar, and proceed normally.
Sounds like this one will be a really special treat NEXT Christmas.
---Todd
All my research indicates that half a package of any neutral dry yeast will be more then sufficient. Simply rehydrate it in a bit of water, add it to your bottling bucket along with the priming sugar, and proceed normally.
Sounds like this one will be a really special treat NEXT Christmas.
---Todd
WWBBD?
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Post #17 made 13 years ago
Thanks Todd,
I'll try your suggested amount of dry yeast. Just to be safe I'll put the bottles in a box, covered by towels in a shower for the first two weeks.
Pete
I'll try your suggested amount of dry yeast. Just to be safe I'll put the bottles in a box, covered by towels in a shower for the first two weeks.
Pete
