Display posts from previous
Sort by

Do You Strain and Squeeze?

Post #1 made 13 years ago
by smyrnaquince
For context, I am brewing stovetop half (2.5 gal) batches.

After I pull and squeeze the bag of grain, I dump the grain, rinse the bag, and shake it out. (I'm pretty sure everyone does this. ;) )

After I have chilled the wort, I put the bag in my bucket and pour the wort in, using the bag to strain out the hot break. The pouring also helps aerate the wort. I then pull the bag and squeeze to get most of the liquid out. I wind up squeezing because the hot break tends to clog the bag. (Yes, I am using proper sanitization for the squeezing at this stage.)

Question: Does anybody see problems with squeezing at this stage?

Post #2 made 13 years ago
by stux
I would be worried about the sanitation of the bag. Grain pre-boil is bacterially filthy and unless you're boiling the bag, I'd be concerned that you're possibly going to infect your brew
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12

Post #3 made 13 years ago
by smyrnaquince
Good point. I will boil the bag in the future.

As it turns out, for this last batch I forgot to empty the grains after the mash, so I grabbed an unused bag (I use 5 gal paint strainer bags), gave it a hot rinse, and sprayed it with sanitizer. (I use Iodophor.)

I got lucky on my last batch (an APA) where I did shake out the bag, then use it as a strainer. No problems with the beer that I can taste now, 6 months later.

Post #4 made 13 years ago
by joshua
Good Day smyrnaquince, I have done what your doing for over 60 batches, and I have had no problems, but I get lees trub/yeast/"crap"(a technical term) in the fermenter, and get more beer into the Secondary!
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America

Post #5 made 13 years ago
by smyrnaquince
Joshua, I'm glad to hear that! what (if anything) do you do to clean the bag before using it this way?

P.S. I used to live in Knoxville and work in Alcoa. Where are you?

Post #6 made 13 years ago
by joshua
Good Day smyrnaquince, I put the bag in boiling water after/during washing, and it stays clean in a large zip-loc bag.

I live/exist west of Fayetteville, 30 miles North of Huntsville, Al. and 90 miles south Nashville Tn.
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America

Post #8 made 13 years ago
by odi3
I strain using my biab bag as well. I just toss the bag in for the last 15 mins of the boil, much like people do with immersion chillers. Havent had a problem yet.

To avoid the bag clogging, i find sloshing the wort around in the bag keeps the strain going rather than just squeezing.
Check out my 15 Gallon eBIAB here:
http://www.londonbrewers.ca/blog

Post #9 made 13 years ago
by rockbotton
I can't do what you guys do. After the mash I squeeze the bag so much that I don't want to use it anymore until I brew again. As a matter of fact the last time I brewed I squeezed the bag so much I thought I had pulled a muscle(undoubtedly drinking too much beer and not working out enough).
Fermenting:

Bottle Conditioning

Up Next:
    • SVA Brewer With Over 20 Brews From United States of America

Post #10 made 13 years ago
by olafphysics
I have done 3 BIAB so far:

The first one I did had hard squeeze. When racking, I noticed a lot of astringency, which I assumed was because of the tannins extracted from the squeeze. With some gelatin, I was able to get rid of most of the astringency.(I did hit my gravities)

The second brew I did before noticing the astringency of the first and did a 'maxi-BIAB' with small squeezes. I rinsed a couple times by letting the grains sit in the rinse for 10-15 min each time. I hit my gravities and have not noticed the astringency. (But this is a barley wine that I have yet to bottle).

The third I rinsed by pouring water over the top with minimal squeezing. I did not notice astringency when racking to a secondary to rest but I was low on my gravities.

So, from my limited experience, I don't like squeezing a ton because of the fear of tannin astringency but something more than a rinse is needed for me to hit my gravities. My next brew I plan on doing more of a rinse and rest like a 'maxi-BIAB' even if I don't need the liquid volume.
olafphysics

Chicago, IL

Post #11 made 13 years ago
by Lylo
Olaphysics,I squeeze the hell out of my bag and have not had any problem with it.Any off flavours noticed when racking will generally dissappear after full fermentation and conditioning.
AWOL

Post #12 made 13 years ago
by BobBrews
Do You Strain and Squeeze?

Yes I do. Sometimes I poop and sometimes I don't? If I have a lot of cheese I always strain and squeeze. If I have a lot of prunes I don't have to strain but sometimes squeeze? All depends?

Oh Sorry I just reread some of your other posts. Another myth blown! Squeezing your "Brew Bag" doesn't cause bitter components (tannins) to be extracted into your wort. How much could you compress the husks (where they are suppose to come from)? I suspect that the compression from your hands upon the husks is negligible
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV

http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America

Post #14 made 13 years ago
by BobBrews
thughes,

Sorry about that. You always take a chance when reading any of my stuff! Not having eaten anything in the last 12 days that pop tart sounds mighty good. Coffee too! God, you "upstate's" live pretty high on the hog!
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV

http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America

Post #15 made 13 years ago
by thughes
BobBrews wrote:God, you "upstate's" live pretty high on the hog!
Heck ya, it was a frosted pop-tart! ;)
Last edited by thughes on 28 May 2012, 02:01, edited 3 times in total.
WWBBD?
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America

Post #16 made 13 years ago
by Lars
I've had a few major screwed up brew days where I've tipped my boiler into the FV due to a blocked strainer and squeezed the shit out of the bag usign less than perfect sanitation methods, but I've been lucky and havent caused an infection doing this. Anyway, due to sh1tty blocked hop filters EVERY time I brew, I'm now going to start putting the empty bag in the boiler for the full boil and using it as a big hop sock.(I think PP recommended that to me on a previous post). I tried this once but found that the bag was rising up due to the boil and not really lining the inside of the boiler. Anyway, next brew I'm trying it again and going to make it work because I've a major pain with hop filters, they just dont work. I'm currently designing one(in my head) for the inside of my buffalo for the next brew day. It'll be simple, based on SS mesh but from past experience the bag in boil will be essential.
Do you guys find that you really have to squeeze the bag doing this? Does it really drain that slowly??

Thanks

L

Post #17 made 13 years ago
by Yeasty
Lars wrote:I'm currently designing one(in my head) for the inside of my buffalo for the next brew day
Have a look Here this works a treat and hasn't blocked once. Drains the kettle almost empty. If I were to make it better I would go with just 2 rows of holes as I think I would get more wort out before the syphon pulls air and breaks the syphon.

Yeasty
Last edited by Yeasty on 28 May 2012, 04:47, edited 3 times in total.
Why is everyone talking about "Cheese"
    • SVA Brewer With Over 50 Brews From Great Britain

Post #18 made 13 years ago
by Lars
Hi Yeasty, I've a tap on my boiler but I suppose I could easily copy your manifold and plumb it into the back of my tap. It looks great. Am I right in saying that you only drilled the underside of the copper? Also, does it flow well? how long to empty the 20litres?
I like the idea of recirculating the first few litres to clear up the wort like a traditional mashtun. Excellent setup!!

Thanks

L

Post #19 made 13 years ago
by stux
I've been reevaluating my squeezing process after a run of hazy beers. I haven't come to a conclusion yet but I'm working on it.

MHB on AHB mentioned in passing that BIAB squeezers risk getting long chain protein haze in their beer. That's what I think I'm getting.
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12

Post #20 made 13 years ago
by Yeasty
Lars wrote:Hi Yeasty, I've a tap on my boiler but I suppose I could easily copy your manifold and plumb it into the back of my tap. It looks great. Am I right in saying that you only drilled the underside of the copper? Also, does it flow well? how long to empty the 20litres?
I like the idea of recirculating the first few litres to clear up the wort like a traditional mashtun. Excellent setup!!

Thanks

L
Hi Lars

Yea just drill the bottom. Ideally you want the holes to sit tight to the bottom of the kettle for maximum wort extraction. It could easly be adapted to be plumbed in to a boiler with a tap.
It does work great and filters out all the trub once you have passed a couple of litres. It drains 25L in about 10-15min I'd guess, I'll check my notes to see if I jotted down and times. Although its not a big issue as it all happens on its own and I'm usually cleaning up other stuff or having a beer.

Yeasty
Last edited by Yeasty on 28 May 2012, 17:02, edited 3 times in total.
Why is everyone talking about "Cheese"
    • SVA Brewer With Over 50 Brews From Great Britain

Post #21 made 13 years ago
by datamichael
stux wrote:I've been reevaluating my squeezing process after a run of hazy beers. I haven't come to a conclusion yet but I'm working on it.

MHB on AHB mentioned in passing that BIAB squeezers risk getting long chain protein haze in their beer. That's what I think I'm getting.
I've done a lot of testing on this subject while developing what may become a commercial product. Without going in to a ton of detail, squeezing grain does not cause astringency or haze-related issues *IF* the mash PH is correct.

If your mash PH is > 5.6, you'll start having both problems.

Michael
Last edited by datamichael on 29 May 2012, 00:40, edited 3 times in total.

Post #22 made 13 years ago
by Lars
Yeasty, I'm really getting keen on this idea. I'm kinda surprised it works as well as it does because I always though SS mesh was the way to go. Have you tested it with pellets yet? I wonder would it work with just pellets or would it need a certain amount of leaf hops in there. Checked at home and I already have 3 1/2" 90deg elbows and a T, just need another elbow and a metre of pipe and I have the materials! I see the original post is last november. you done many brews with it? is there anything youd change if doing it again(except the 2 rows of holes that you mentioned)?

Thanks

L

Post #23 made 13 years ago
by PistolPatch
Yeasty's manifold is pretty clever :peace:
Lars wrote:I'm now going to start putting the empty bag in the boiler for the full boil and using it as a big hop sock. I tried this once but found that the bag was rising up due to the boil and not really lining the inside of the boiler.
The trick here Lars is not to use it like your mash bag. In other words, don't line the kettle. Just tie it to a rope or something (leave an opening to throw in your hops) and just let it dangle in the wort so it nearly touches the bottom. It will lazilly move around the wort ensuring good utiliastion whilst not restricting your evaporation. You won't ge the rising up problem this way.

:peace:
Last edited by PistolPatch on 29 May 2012, 07:23, edited 3 times in total.
If you have found the above or anything else of value on BIABrewer.info, consider supporting us by getting some BIPs!
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Australia

Post #24 made 13 years ago
by Yeasty
Hi lars

I've done about 5 brews with it and never had a problem. I haven't used it with pellets yet as all the hops I buy are leaf. I can't see it being a problem though might even filter better. If you are concerned stick with the 3 rows of holes but drill then 2mm instead of 3mm.
I've seen similiar strainers with just slots every 10mm made with a hack saw. Not easy getting them neat when I had a go hence I decided to drill. I might blend my hops next time in a food processor to see it causes any problems.

:salute:

Yeasty
Why is everyone talking about "Cheese"
    • SVA Brewer With Over 50 Brews From Great Britain

Post #25 made 13 years ago
by thylacine
Flame off, cool to pitching temperature and dump the lot into the fermenter. Pitch and put the fermenter away for 2-3 weeks (ale/lager), cold chill for seven days (eg 0 celcius), syphon into bottles/keg. One week 'carb' period at room temp (PET bottles are hard by then), then into fridge at 4c. Works for me, eg. negligible sediment in carbonated bottles

cheers
Post Reply

Return to “Intermediate Brewing”

Brewers Online

Brewers browsing this forum: No members and 31 guests

cron