eKettle controller?

Post #1 made 14 years ago
Hail,

I really want to build an eKettle! It's not an urgent project yet I'm in the planning stage. I found a temperature controller on amazon.com Control Products TC-9102D-HV and wondered if it would work for an eKettle? Here's my ideas in a nutshell. First (please don't hit me with a bat) find around a 20 gallon water heater and butcher it to my needs MUHAHAHA. Second use said controller hooked to an element to heat wort. When done with the boil use the cooling side of the controller to kick on a pump and chill the wort to set temp. I'm no electrical engineer and I am probably over simplifying the situation but it seems to me it would work. Please pick this idea to death.
PHins UP!!! ~~^~~
Tim

Post #2 made 14 years ago
"Dual 20 amp relays"

20 amp relay isn't going to handle the current requirements of an element large enough to heat that volume of water. It is also unlikely that device will react fast enough to maintain temperature of a mash within a degree or two. You're better off building a pulse width modulator to control the element (Google it) or use a PID/SSR combination. (Nice idea though)

---Todd
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Post #6 made 14 years ago
Great link that
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Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12

Post #7 made 14 years ago
Oh Yeah,

Thanks for the input! I ordered a 44 quart SS brew pot. After much reading on the thread at HBT I like the idea of the Auber SYL-2352 PID. It's not much more than a digital thermometer and it will be sweet for it's control over the brewing process. I've got more reading to do on the subject but I'm heading that way.
Last edited by pr8headed on 21 Feb 2012, 10:18, edited 3 times in total.
PHins UP!!! ~~^~~
Tim

Post #8 made 14 years ago
I think you will like using the PID. I built the same controller from home brew talk and have two beers under my belt with it. Eventually I will get.a.bayou classic kettle with steamer basket for ebiab. . I just don't know what size to get... 44 quart or 62 quart....

Post #9 made 14 years ago
Well I ordered the rest of the stuff today :argh: I based it off of Todd's setup and the one at http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/my-off" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... ad-269164/ I'm not going to do a recirc pump yet, gotta have something to look forward to. Auber Instruments is really on the ball! I got the shipping notice before I even got the final order confirmation. In the next week or so I'll be building me a killer e-biab rig! I really thank you guys! I've been wanting build one for a long time and you helped me get it going. The first beer from the kettle is a toast to you :drink:
Last edited by pr8headed on 23 Feb 2012, 08:26, edited 3 times in total.
PHins UP!!! ~~^~~
Tim

Post #10 made 14 years ago
pr8headed wrote:Well I ordered the rest of the stuff today :argh: I based it off of Todd's setup and the one at http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/my-off" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... ad-269164/ I'm not going to do a recirc pump yet, gotta have something to look forward to. Auber Instruments is really on the ball! I got the shipping notice before I even got the final order confirmation. In the next week or so I'll be building me a killer e-biab rig! I really thank you guys! I've been wanting build one for a long time and you helped me get it going. The first beer from the kettle is a toast to you :drink:
I find this really interesting, and I've read the link above, but what are the benefits of a PID/SSR set up over just running an STC1000? From reading the Auber instruments website its really just for running the element and the pump (or am i wrong). Can you program this to ramp up to mashout, then up to boiling temp, then turn the pump on for chilling or do you have to keep setting it manually for each step as it comes up?

I have an electronics background, so I can understand how to build it, but I can't get my head around exactly what it can do.
Last edited by Aces high on 23 Feb 2012, 19:22, edited 3 times in total.

Post #11 made 14 years ago
Basically, the pump will run constantly and independently of the PID and heating element. The PID will decide how long the power should remain on to the heating element to maintain the set temperature without over shooting the temperature.

Yes, you can use the PID to step the mash up to mash out. What I do is dough in just under the mash temp, let the system correct and maintain the mash temp, then increase the temp to the next step.

Auber instruments PID can also be used to control the boil by switching the output to manual.

Post #12 made 14 years ago
db817 wrote:I think you will like using the PID. I built the same controller from home brew talk and have two beers under my belt with it. Eventually I will get.a.bayou classic kettle with steamer basket for ebiab. . I just don't know what size to get... 44 quart or 62 quart....
Get the 62 (at least)!

Actually.....get the 80, I wish I did. The 62 will give you room for full 5 gallon batches but you'll have to do Maxi-BIAB for anything larger. The 80 will let you do full volume 10 gallon batches.

---Todd
Last edited by thughes on 23 Feb 2012, 22:13, edited 3 times in total.
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Post #13 made 14 years ago
For you guys and gals building an electric system and needing advice on the electrical portion of your build:

In addition to Kal's site, I strongly recommend contacting "P-J" over at HBT if you have questions. This gentleman has been instrumental in many builds and seems to truly enjoy sharing his knowledge. He went over-and-above in helping me with my build.
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Post #14 made 14 years ago
What I have been thinking of doing is running a recirculating herms system. I currently run on LPG, so i would get it up to temp, then use the controller to dial in the exact temp and recirculate through a herms to maintain temp. I think this would improve efficiency and take the guesswork out of hitting strike temps. Gas is great for the boil, but harder to control for the mashing.

The aussies use STC1000's bought out of hong kong mainly to control their fermenting fridges, but they are heating/ cooling units and can be purchased very cheaply off ebay in a 240V 10A or 16A version. Im not sure how many of the brewers outside Australia use these. The last 2 i bought cost $16 each, plus about $12 in parts to wire up. I can set a temp and the unit will maintain that temp, and I can set a higher temp for mashout then boil. I guess PID's may be better at maintaining the exact temp, but i am not sure.

From reading the Auber website, I can't see that their unit does much more, but it has more parts and is more expensive. I would like to build a unit which is more programmable than the auber, but maybe I am missing something.

Sorry about the ramble, but is the Auber unit going to be much better than a simple STC1000?

And tell me if I have hijacked this thread, i've had a couple of pints this evening so my judgement may be slightly off

Post #15 made 14 years ago
I use the STC-1000's for my keezer controller and a couple more for fermentation heat blankets I built from reptile cage warmers. They work great in that application. The STC-1000 is essentially a thermostat that turns on and off based on an at lowest 0.3°C deadband, no PID control logic.

For my future e-kettle I got a Sestos PID controller package with the heat sink, SSR, and temp sensor. The Sestos is similar to the Auber except you can't change to read out to Fahrenheit. This is a PID type controller that can better learn the time it takes to heat the mass of water. Or I believe you can just set it to a duty cycle % to keep a consistent output. Here's a link to one on Ebay AU. Pretty sure they're available in any country though.
Last edited by tolonen on 24 Feb 2012, 03:34, edited 4 times in total.
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Post #16 made 14 years ago
Thanks Tolonen,

I Found that one yesterday in my searching, seem like good value and might be a good option to run my mini herms unit.

I can see why PID logic would make it more accurate, than an STC1000. I was thinking that using the STC1000 to run a herms unit would dampen the over shoot effect that you would get if you were just direct firing. Having said that, the sestos one on ebay gives you all the major components for not much more

Post #17 made 14 years ago
Aces,

Not completely related, but I just saw a Youtube video HERE that shows a PID controller loop (looks like it may be the Auber model) in action on a RIMS setup. Action starts at about 3:30 in the video, you can see how quickly and precisely the the controller cycles on and off to maintain that temperature by his heat on indicator light.

There are some tips on setting this particular style PID-capable controller up for auto mode. What I have seen is that it is best to initiate the auto-tune mode when you are close to the setpoint temperature. People were initiating the auto-tune mode at room temperature water and it was not finishing properly. Maybe someone that has actually done this can shed more light on it.

Anyway, I thought it was interesting to see the controller in action. Like you said though, cost is about the same as an STC-1000 and you get all the other parts in one package. I think they are popular for DIY Sous Vide cooking setups because I do not see them selling that many of these for e-kettle setups.
Last edited by tolonen on 24 Feb 2012, 09:53, edited 3 times in total.
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Post #18 made 14 years ago
after doing a bit more research I found the auber model that does ramp/soak. You can preset up to 30 set points, so you could completely set up a step mash and if you knew your ramp up speed you could really just come back at boil.

Its a bit more expensive than the standard Auber & a fair bit more than the sestos one when you take into account SSR & Themocouple you need to buy, but it does do a fair bit more. If you could build an automated hop dispenser you'd pretty much make yourself redundant... which means my wife would expect me to do other non beer related chores insted... :idiot:

http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_ ... 6d4a59ab25
Last edited by Aces high on 24 Feb 2012, 12:05, edited 3 times in total.

Post #19 made 13 years ago
For those of you who who want to control their element but want to be "cost efficent", buy a DIY kit from dragonstills.com
Basically its just a big dimmer switch to reduce the strength of your boil.

http://www.stilldragon.com/diy-controller.html
It controls a 5500w element and is only 54.25. To use this you will still need GFI protection

Also, they have the best deal on element adapters
http://www.stilldragon.com/element-guar ... pters.html

I have no connection to these guys, but just liked the products they offer.
Check out my 15 Gallon eBIAB here:
http://www.londonbrewers.ca/blog

Post #20 made 13 years ago
Odi3,

Have you used any of their stuff?
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Bobbrews
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