Did my first BIAB on Monday, and it went smoothly enough, can't think why I didnt do this a year ago!
Evaluation. I need to get a hop bag, hops clogged the tap and made draining a PITA.
Evaluation 2. Think I could chill better, small 12v pump, copper coil, and a sink full of cold water, replace cold water when it's as hot as the beer.
Question. I 'no chilled' into a FV. While hot, there was a lot of small particles in suspension in the beer, and I was thinking it was either sugars ready for yeastifying, or waste from the grain. As it cooled it collected at the bottom of my 'chiller FV'
Is this sediment wanted or not? Should I look on at my creation and cackle maniacly? Or drain it off and look like I know what I am doing?
As I said, it was only my first foray, and this was a disposable brew just to see what problems I would encounter. I like. (loved the smell too!)
Must say though, you guys on here are fantastic. The knowledge and support on here for noob BIAB'ers such as me warms the soul.
Post #2 made 14 years ago
Its rubbish, better in your cooling vessel, than the fermenter, but doesn't seem to make a difference I believe.
SO, I would not do anything about it, because the worst thing is to risk infection to remove something which is probably not going to make a difference.
SO, I would not do anything about it, because the worst thing is to risk infection to remove something which is probably not going to make a difference.
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Post #3 made 14 years ago
Okay, sounds good Stux, and thanks.
Changes to the way I did this (cool in the boiler by passing cold water through) should remove more of it out anyway. On a plus, the brew is bubbling away like a geyser, and smells fantastic.
Now I can get on with the serious business of planning the grain needed for my first *real* BIAB.
Changes to the way I did this (cool in the boiler by passing cold water through) should remove more of it out anyway. On a plus, the brew is bubbling away like a geyser, and smells fantastic.
Now I can get on with the serious business of planning the grain needed for my first *real* BIAB.
Post #4 made 14 years ago
Nice one SD 
As to cooling I've heard of guys using a spare keg as a resevoir for cooling water. Hose attached to tap and placed higher than your kettle. Just let gravity do the work (you could pressurise it I suppose). The flow rate doesn't have to be much more than a steady trickle
about the width of a pencil if you get my drift.
Save the hot water for washing your gear.
Y
As to cooling I've heard of guys using a spare keg as a resevoir for cooling water. Hose attached to tap and placed higher than your kettle. Just let gravity do the work (you could pressurise it I suppose). The flow rate doesn't have to be much more than a steady trickle
about the width of a pencil if you get my drift.Save the hot water for washing your gear.
Y
Why is everyone talking about "Cheese"
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Post #6 made 14 years ago
Or No Chill into cubes
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Chill or no-chill
Post #7 made 14 years ago
SD. Good on you!With regards to your evaluations...
Hop Bag: On the next brew, just rinse out your BIAB bag and use that for your hops. A BIAB bag makes an excellent hop bag.
Chill or No-Chill*: Chilling requires some sort of chiller. No-chilling requires a vessell in which the wort can chill. It's not an easy subject but here's a few things to get you thinking or started...
Chilling: Forget the pump. Just use one of your household or garden taps to power the chiller. If you use a pump, you will find the sink-full of water becoming too hot in probably less than a minute. You also need a specialised pump to handle such high temperatures. Use the 'government' pump which gives you mains water pressure
.No-Chilling: Like chilling, there are also many different methods. The simplest no-chill option is to cover your kettle with your kettle lid, and preferably foil, and then let the wort coil in the kettle. You must transfer the wort when it is cool to your fermenting vessel and pitch straight away. A mate of mine always does this and he brews some quite exotic styles. I have done this several times with no negative results. Other no-chilling methods allow you to store the wort for quite some time before pitching but these require another vessell (usually a 'cube') and another transfer.
I think for your next brew, maybe try no-chilling in the kettle*. I have done this with the amarillo ale and the result is great. The Schwartzbier will also come out fine with this method.
No-chilling in the kettle is not often practiced but I see no difference between this and no-chilling using a cube as long as you transfer and pitch the wort when the kettle is cool enough. I wouldn't suggest this method if I didn't think it was a very valid option for many circumstances. (My normal practice is to use an immersion-chiller and then usually have to refrigerate my wort before I can pitch*.)
Cheers and keep us posted,
PP
* Chilling methods are limited by water temperature (my tap water here today is 28 C!). No-chill methods are limited by air temperature (mean min and max temps here for last month are 19.5 C and 32.5 C.) The figures here show that, in some climates, it might be impossible to reach pitching temperatures, especially for lagers, without using refrigeration or ice at some stage. This needs to be considered.
Last edited by PistolPatch on 03 Feb 2011, 19:40, edited 5 times in total.
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Post #8 made 14 years ago
Yes, I place my cubes into my fermentation fridge the day before I plan to ferment them and set the ferm control to what I want the brew to actually be, by the time I pitch the wort is where I want it... and thoroughly aeratedNo-chill methods are limited by air temperature (mean min and max temps here for last month are 19.5 C and 32.5 C.) The figures here show that, in some climates, it might be impossible to reach pitching temperatures, especially for lagers, without using refrigeration or ice at some stage. This needs to be considered
Last edited by stux on 03 Feb 2011, 21:23, edited 5 times in total.
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Post #9 made 14 years ago
AHEM
Forgot SNOW CHILL
Forgot SNOW CHILL
Last edited by Two If By Sea on 04 Feb 2011, 01:58, edited 5 times in total.
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Post #10 made 14 years ago
Well, I picked up the copper for my chiller, just have to rig a hose to fit an odd sink tap now. It does seem the suitable way for my layout. I don't think it would take that long to lower the temp either, our cold water is COLD, and decent pressure.PistolPatch wrote:
Chill or No-Chill*: Chilling requires some sort of chiller. No-chilling requires a vessell in which the wort can chill. It's not an easy subject but here's a few things to get you thinking or started...
Chilling: Forget the pump. Just use one of your household or garden taps to power the chiller. If you use a pump, you will find the sink-full of water becoming too hot in probably less than a minute. You also need a specialised pump to handle such high temperatures. Use the 'government' pump which gives you mains water pressure
No-Chilling: Like chilling, there are also many different methods. The simplest no-chill option is to cover your kettle with your kettle lid, and preferably foil, and then let the wort coil in the kettle. You must transfer the wort when it is cool to your fermenting vessel and pitch straight away. A mate of mine always does this and he brews some quite exotic styles. I have done this several times with no negative results. Other no-chilling methods allow you to store the wort for quite some time before pitching but these require another vessell (usually a 'cube') and another transfer.
Wife can notice a speck of yeast in 'her' kitchen at 100 yards, so leaving a kettle out for a while is going to get me on the naughty step
I'm always open for advice from the more experienced though, and want to iron out the 'stupid' parts of my brewing before they come habits.
I do have plenty of fermenting vessels (with narrow tops easily sealed) though, so it's nice to have options.
Fermenting seems to be slowing down, and it still smells nice and 'beery' so, I'll raise the first glass or two to the BIABrewer crew.
Oh, and Two? My wife wants your snow. She's happy to swap my brewing equipment. Now, whatever can she mean by that.
Last edited by Snapdragon on 04 Feb 2011, 02:08, edited 5 times in total.
