First BIAB

Post #1 made 11 years ago
Hi Folks,

After the advice and recipe calculation feedback I kindly received, I thought I'd report back on my first BIAB day, with a few photos for evidence :thumbs: .

I was really excited to finally do this, and it was a great experience. Everything went well, but of course there was one 'mishap' which momentarily had me thinking I'd ruined the wort. I was mashing out, and did a final temp check before pulling the bag, when I noticed wort floating inside my thermometer. It was one of those floating glass tube thermometers, with the emphasis on 'was'. I did a quick inspection, could not see any visible crack or blue liquid leaking out, so decided to press on and think about it later. At the end of the day after cleanup, I discovered that the very top dome of the tube had been compromised like a boiled egg prepped eating. The top of the glass had all but disappeared, and I was quite shocked by the paper thin fragility of the thing. I can only think that I must have caused it to bang up against the lid of the kettle while stirring up the wort. I believe that any glass would have been removed with the grains, and any possibly escaped shards left behind in the trub after siphoning. Fortunately I had a backup digital thermometer for the chilling, etc. stages. Thank goodness for redundancy :idea: .

Raising the temperature up from the acid rest took about 40 minutes. Should one include this as part of the mash duration? I did not, so the grains mashed for a total of 20+40+70=130min, plus 10 to 15 min to get to mash out.

The boil was not as vigorous as I would have liked, and I guess my 65000 BTU is not quite up to the job. I think this accounts for the lower than expected evaporation. Using the BIABacus, how should I account for this in future brew sessions?

The GIB reading was taken at 110F, and measured 1.028. The adjusted reading is 1.036, similar to 'estimated'. But then the GAW was 1.042 measured at 63F, much lower than the estimated 1.050 (hydrometer is calibrated to 60F, so I did not adjust this reading). At first I found this very puzzling, but then read some more posts on this forum. I'm now more inclined to trust the GAW. I did not measure mash volume or KFL, so have left those blank in the attached BIABacus.

Thanks again to the members of this forum who provided many useful tips and info.
BIABacus PR1.3K - Weizen - BCS Harold-is-weizen - Batch 1.xls
The acid rest:
IMG_3271.jpg
The boil:
IMG_3273.jpg
The chill:
IMG_3279.jpg
Cheers!
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Last edited by BDP on 05 May 2014, 10:58, edited 1 time in total.

Post #2 made 11 years ago
Congrats on your first BIAB brew! Everyone has a few hiccups in the early days ( and later days, if you're like me :sneak:) . At least you had time to take some pics. I broke one of those glass thermometers while brilliantly using it to stir the pot. Mine broke at the bottom and the weight beads made their way in to the wort. I didn't trust the Chinese made thermometer even if it did say "Lead free". Lost batch number 1... and hopefully the last!

I'm sure it will turn out great! Might be a little sessionable, but that will be great with the warmer weather coming.
Last edited by JackRussel on 05 May 2014, 12:04, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #3 made 11 years ago
Just checked your BIABacus file and you might want to carb to higher than 2.5 volumes. 3.6 is probably around the level of an average Hefeweizen.
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Post #4 made 11 years ago
LOL JR and great post/congratulations BDP :thumbs:,

For an all-grain brewer, the thermometer is probably the most important instrument ever and the only way I know of having one that is accurate at mash temperature is to have a lot of them :)!

You asked about the raising of the temp taking 40 minutes. A few things. The acid rest at 43C seems low to me. Off the top of my head it should be 50C or thereabouts. Check that.

Normally you would hope to, as a general figure, raise our kettle temp by 1 degree Celsius per minute so you definitely are struggling there but you say your burner is 65000 BTU's. That should be enough for the volumes you are doing so I am thinking that your regulator is not right and/or the holes in your burner aren't clean and/or you haven't got the right coloured flame. Get a variable regulator, make sure the holes in the burner are clean and that your flame is blue with not too much yellow and that your pot is not 'squashing' the flame.

110 F is to high to measure a gravity reading. I think/hope I have improved the warnings in this on the final BIABacus.

Remember that KFL and VIF must both be measured to get a good idea of VAW - the main volume number. Measuring one without the other leaves a large gap of critical information. From what I can see though (remember though, we can't trust numbers from a single brew too much) your boil vigour is a problem. You ask how to handle this in the BIABacus and here is where we get to...

"Ask not what the BIABacus can do for you but for what you can do for the BIABacus." :P

What I am saying here is that the BIABacus has been designed to indicate when there is a problem in your brewing process. You can't tweek the BIABacus settings to fix a faulty burner. You need to fix the burner ;).

In saying that, there is one little trick that can give you a more vigorous boil and that is to float a stainless steel bowl on top of your wort. This reduces the surface area of the wort and often allows a small burner to create the boil vigour needed. Whatever you do though, don't boil with your kettle lid on or with your lid partially covering the kettle.

Anyway, check the reg, holes and flame colour first.

:salute:
PP

P.S. Nice pics btw, Still trying to work out all the fancy stuff in the last pic. Wow!
Last edited by PistolPatch on 05 May 2014, 20:44, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #5 made 11 years ago
Thanks JR for making me feel a bit better about my broken thermometer :P . I need to look into a better system for that. Regarding carbonation, I was concerned that anything higher might be too much for the standard 340ml capped bottles I'm going to use. Do you know what a 'safe' limit is?

Hi PistolPatch, I was basing my mash schedule off of this article to try and increase the ferulic acid for a more pronounced clove character:
http://beerandwinejournal.com/german-wheat-beer-iii/

All good points you mentioned about the burner, and I think I have them all covered. I'm going to try your stainless steel bowl trick next time, and hopefully upgrade my burner sometime in the future. I just bought this one, thinking it would be adequate. I suppose you get what you pay for :headhit: . Fortunately I did not leave the lid on at all, as I read somewhere that this defeats the aim of boiling off the unwanted thingamajiggums (DMS?).

By 'fancy stuff', do you mean my sheepskin slippers or all the piping? :) I laid my immersion chiller on its side, since it wasn't resting deep enough in the wort when standing upright. And next time I aim to take some more measurements!

Cheers, and thanks again for the responses.

PS: Lovely ferment going, and I did some top-cropping this morning. It has a doughy, fruity, & slight banana aroma :yum:

Post #6 made 11 years ago
BDP wrote:Thanks JR for making me feel a bit better about my broken thermometer :P . I need to look into a better system for that. Regarding carbonation, I was concerned that anything higher might be too much for the standard 340ml capped bottles I'm going to use. Do you know what a 'safe' limit is?
The highest I have ever bottle carbed to was 3.8 vols. That was using Mill St. bottles, which look to me that they are fairly beefy and a more consistent shape and thickness than standard bottles. I've done 3.0 vols in standard bottles without issue. I suspect a lot of bottle bombs are due to incomplete fermentation and/or infections. Beersmith will throw warnings at you if you go above 2.8 vols, but I think that is more about liability than actual style guidelines.

I use plastic file boxes to store my bottles, which eliminates much of the worry about exploding bottles. I haven't had a bottle bomb yet..... ( knocks on wood )
Last edited by JackRussel on 06 May 2014, 04:24, edited 2 times in total.
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Post #7 made 11 years ago
BDP, I don't know what the safe limits are for my bottles. Most came from the homebrew shop. Some came from a local brewery. So I'm sure I have a good mix of suppliers. I definately feel safe carbonating up to 3 volumes of CO2. If I were to try to carb up to 4 or 5 volumes, I would be nervous. I might want to use gloves and goggles until I gained some confidence with the higher pressures. I know the Belgian bottles tend to be thicker than the bottles I use.

I've only had a couple of bottles explode on me. They were holding yeast slurries. I thought they were too old and I pulled them from the fridge to dump and clean. I ended up leaving them sitting out for a couple of weeks and a few of them blew up. I assume it was from the yeast breaking down or maybe there were some stray bacteria that started taking over once the temperature was raised.

Best of luck to you.

Post #8 made 11 years ago
BDP, just a comment about your chiller...

I would suggest not having any connections that might possibly leak, in a possition where the leaking chill water will go into the wort.

I've heard many stories from friends who ended up with an extra gallon or two of wort because of a leak that was noticed too late.

Post #9 made 11 years ago
I think I'll go with 3 CO2 volumes, based on the input.

dexter.rose, point noted about the chiller, thank you. I had my beady eye on it for that very reason. This position just seemed like the best compromise. It's a homemade one, sized for a smaller 4g pot so that the inlet and outlet connections hang over the rim of the pot facing downward. Didn't want to start re-bending it, as there are already a few kinks in the tubing that I didn't want to exacerbate. Why is there always something more that needs upgrading, eh? :)

Post #10 made 11 years ago
BDP wrote:By 'fancy stuff', do you mean my sheepskin slippers or all the piping?
Slippers :).

No I was actually more looking at the hoses connected to your chiller. One looks as though it is hard metal pipe but on a closer look I think it is a normal garden hose. And then you have a clear one. I think I was wondering about the two different types.

And thanks for explaining the mash regime for me :peace:
Last edited by PistolPatch on 06 May 2014, 12:42, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #11 made 11 years ago
Quick update ... I bottled the beer on the 16th May. I had about 5.8 gallons, so did not lose much volume when racking into the bottling bucket. I was expecting a lot more trub compared to my previous experience with extract brews, but most of it seemed to be yeast cake. The beer was very clear and light in colour, and it seems that most of the yeast had settled out. I was expecting more yeast in suspension, as per the style. Tasting the gravity sample: very thin and light bodied, and no pronounced hefeweizen character to speak of.

I'm guessing, and would be interested in other opinions, that the extended period of heating the wort to the second rest temperature resulted in more conversion ( :think: ?). I believe the recipe called for a more malt forward wort profile. The FG was 1.008, and I was expecting 1.013.

In retrospect, being my first brew with a new setup, I should have done a single temp rest. I will adhere to this advice for my future brews, until such time as I can upgrade my burner.

Cheers
:drink:

Post #12 made 11 years ago
See how it goes once carbonated BDP. The single rest is a great idea. Definitely get the burner sorted and make sure you have a few thermometers so you are nopt mashing at a dodgy temp.

Weizens aren't a style I am into but we haven't seen your recipe report in this thread. I'd post that up as, if there is a problem, it could be in the recipe itself.

:peace:
PP
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