Well it wasn't a total disaster, but not quite smooth sailing either. My preliminary info from the calculator can be found in a previous post:
http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php ... =200#p8803
I made a starter using WhiteLabs WLP400 the night before and 12 hours later it had overflow the flask and continued to do so until I finally pitched it. I'm not quite sure how much yeast I lost in the process so hopefully it'll get the job done. The evaporation numbers and such I previously worried about where more or less fine. I ended up putting about 6 gal into the fermenter because leaving the kettle trub behind is almost impossible through the ball valve in my keggle. Since I used a hopsock I didn't have any hop remnants to help filter out the break material. My gravity readings tell me I managed a whopping 65% efficiency :( I double milled my grain. I did my initial mash at 154F for 60min and mashed out at 168F for 10min. Those temperatures stayed pretty consistent throughout. I think the size of the bag may have restricted the grain a bit, though I used the dimensions suggested here:
http://www.thebrewingnetwork.com/forum/ ... 27#p190727
Initially I let the bag drip for a bit into a secondary pot and thought that was good enough until I gave it a squeeze. There was a ton of stuff still coming out so I tried to squeeze as much as I could. Next time I'll be sure and buy a pair of gloves, ouch.
So we'll see how it comes out. It was already a really low gravity beer to start with so missing the numbers kinda sucks, bit so long as it tastes good I'm okay with that.
Robert
Post #2 made 14 years ago
Good news on getting your first brew in the fermenter Robert, well done.
Don't be concerned about the kettle trub in the fermenter, it will settle out and form a nice layer on the bottom. If you want , you can rack to secondary after a few days to get the beer off the trub.
65% is not a disaster for your first go. Is the figure post-boil, pre-boil, into fermenter or something different?
Don't be concerned about the kettle trub in the fermenter, it will settle out and form a nice layer on the bottom. If you want , you can rack to secondary after a few days to get the beer off the trub.
65% is not a disaster for your first go. Is the figure post-boil, pre-boil, into fermenter or something different?
"It's beer Jim, but not as we know it."
Post #3 made 14 years ago
I'm not worried. When I previously did partial mashes more often than not I just dumped the whole thing into the fermenter. My comment had more to due with not knowing how my actual loss to kettle trub turned out, in comparison to what the calculator said. As for racking to secondary, I did it the very first time I brewed and haven't done it since. I read about a lot of people moving to doing long primaries (~3 weeks) with fine results, so I started doing that and things have come out just fine.hashie wrote: Don't be concerned about the kettle trub in the fermenter, it will settle out and form a nice layer on the bottom. If you want , you can rack to secondary after a few days to get the beer off the trub.
Post-boil of course. We'll see how I do the next time and if it's no better I'll either just throw in some extra grain or toss some DME in with ~10min left in the boil to compensate.hashie wrote: 65% is not a disaster for your first go. Is the figure post-boil, pre-boil, into fermenter or something different?
Robert
Last edited by flemming on 25 Apr 2011, 09:20, edited 5 times in total.
Post #4 made 14 years ago
Congratulations on your first crack Robert 
65% is low for your end of boil efficiency. It could be a dodgy reading or it could be one of many other things (eg grain not weighed correctly). On the next brew, let's get your recipe weights sorted in advance and give you a completed Calculator to start with.
Also, do a 90 minute mash on your next batch.
No need to double crush. If your first crush is good, do not do a second crush. A floury crush can have many disadvantages.
The other thing that is worrying me is that you mention your bag restricted the mash. I read that you followed the dimensions here but is your bag basically able to line the whole pot? If not, what isn't right?
Beer will still taste great so don't get too worried about this on your first brew.
Good on you
PP
65% is low for your end of boil efficiency. It could be a dodgy reading or it could be one of many other things (eg grain not weighed correctly). On the next brew, let's get your recipe weights sorted in advance and give you a completed Calculator to start with.
Also, do a 90 minute mash on your next batch.
No need to double crush. If your first crush is good, do not do a second crush. A floury crush can have many disadvantages.
The other thing that is worrying me is that you mention your bag restricted the mash. I read that you followed the dimensions here but is your bag basically able to line the whole pot? If not, what isn't right?
Beer will still taste great so don't get too worried about this on your first brew.
Good on you
PP
If you have found the above or anything else of value on BIABrewer.info, consider supporting us by getting some BIPs!
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Australia
-
Post #5 made 14 years ago
If you look back at my post you'll see I linked to the calculator info for this particular recipe. I actually went up a bit on the grain from the what the calculator said. A lot of good that did...PistolPatch wrote:Congratulations on your first crack Robert
65% is low for your end of boil efficiency. It could be a dodgy reading or it could be one of many other things (eg grain not weighed correctly). On the next brew, let's get your recipe weights sorted in advance and give you a completed Calculator to start with.
I was just going along with what the initial recipe said. I'll certainly give that a try next time.PistolPatch wrote: Also, do a 90 minute mash on your next batch.
It seemed like people were getting improved efficiencies using a finer milled grain so I just ran them through twice at the brew shop. I have no idea what to consider what the machine does by default since it's not adjustable.PistolPatch wrote: No need to double crush. If your first crush is good, do not do a second crush. A floury crush can have many disadvantages.
I followed the dimensions from that other post. That design does taper a bit though so the bag does narrow and become smaller than the vessel at some point. Since this was my first BIAB I wasn't sure what to expect, but I was anticipating that the mash would have been much thinner and it was pretty thick. That's all I'm basing my restricted comment on. I was just expected something a bit more free flowing than I got.PistolPatch wrote: The other thing that is worrying me is that you mention your bag restricted the mash. I read that you followed the dimensions here but is your bag basically able to line the whole pot? If not, what isn't right?
I'm not in it for precision, so long as I get drinkable results I'm a happy camper. If it doesn't turn out so great, then hopefully I learned something in the process. Take carePistolPatch wrote: Beer will still taste great so don't get too worried about this on your first brew.
Robert
Last edited by flemming on 26 Apr 2011, 11:56, edited 5 times in total.
Post #6 made 14 years ago
Hey there Robert,
Ah! I remember reading your post now - your recipe had a batch size and boil size equalling 19.68 L. I did reply in this post but your reply only addressed the FGDB question. We'll get it right on the next brew eh?
90 minute mashes should be standard for all new all-grainers no matter whether they are BIABing or otherwise. To much room for trouble otherwise. Same goes for a 90 minute boil.
I've written a fair bit on grain crushes - maybe search here for my posts on 'crush' or 'fine'. One of the problems with the internet is that myths get spread pretty quickly. People post they get improved efficiencies after one brew. I've done hundreds of brews, many side by sides, and I can't give you an answer to many questions. What I can tell you is that you need to only break the grain open, flatten it, not pulverize it.
As for the mash appearing thicker than you thought then we might need more info. A traditional mash will be nothing like porridge - there is still a lot of 'spare' liquid. Have you seen or done a traditional mash before? If not, your BIAB mash will still seem thick to some extent - a hard thing to describe!
Next brew will answer a lot of questions.
PP
Ah! I remember reading your post now - your recipe had a batch size and boil size equalling 19.68 L. I did reply in this post but your reply only addressed the FGDB question. We'll get it right on the next brew eh?
90 minute mashes should be standard for all new all-grainers no matter whether they are BIABing or otherwise. To much room for trouble otherwise. Same goes for a 90 minute boil.
I've written a fair bit on grain crushes - maybe search here for my posts on 'crush' or 'fine'. One of the problems with the internet is that myths get spread pretty quickly. People post they get improved efficiencies after one brew. I've done hundreds of brews, many side by sides, and I can't give you an answer to many questions. What I can tell you is that you need to only break the grain open, flatten it, not pulverize it.
As for the mash appearing thicker than you thought then we might need more info. A traditional mash will be nothing like porridge - there is still a lot of 'spare' liquid. Have you seen or done a traditional mash before? If not, your BIAB mash will still seem thick to some extent - a hard thing to describe!
Next brew will answer a lot of questions.
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 26 Apr 2011, 23:36, edited 5 times in total.
If you have found the above or anything else of value on BIABrewer.info, consider supporting us by getting some BIPs!
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Australia
-
Post #7 made 14 years ago
I just realized I never followed up with the final results from this batch. My FG was 1.018 (from an OG of 1.041). I expected to finish around 1.011, but I think I lost a little too much yeast due to my starter going crazy and overflowing the flask. So from a purely numeric perspective things came out all wrong, but who really cares about the numbers, right? The result smells good and has an nice subtle fruity flavor. It's certainly on the light side as far as alcohol content is concerned, but it's an enjoyable easy drinking summer wheat nonetheless.
Post #8 made 14 years ago
flemming wrote:So from a purely numeric perspective things came out all wrong, but who really cares about the numbers, right?
Thanks for getting back to us Robert. I'd agree with your quote above when it comes to a single reading or a single brew as is the case here but if your brews continue at 65% post or pre-boil efficiency then there is a problem that needs to be found. Did my last post above ring any bells for you?
Also have a look at this Low Efficiency Checklist
One thing you now know from this brew is that things can go fairly crazy sometimes but the end result is nearly always a pleasure.
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 25 May 2011, 19:46, edited 5 times in total.
If you have found the above or anything else of value on BIABrewer.info, consider supporting us by getting some BIPs!
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Australia
-
