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My Second AG BIAB

Post #1 made 8 years ago
by jrstephens65
With the first batch in the keg under CO2 and conditioning away it's time to start thinking about the next brew.

Family members are requesting a Sierra Nevada Pale ale clone so I will try that next.

This will be new for me as I have never dry hopped a beer. Do I need to rack to a secondary or can I just leave in the primary and dry hop after fermentation has finished? I am assuming 4 days of dry hop?

The recipe I found calls for

9lbs 15oz (4.5 kg) 2 row pale malt
1.0 lb (0.45 kg) crystal malt (40 L)
5.1 gr Magnum hops 12% AA 60min
19 gr Perle hops 7% AA 60min
28 gr Cascade hops 5% AA 15min
21 gr Cascade hops 0min
21 gr whole Cascade hops (dry hop)

Wyeast 1056 or White labs WLP001

1.5L yeast starter

Mash temp 150 for 60min
90 min boil
Ferment at 68 F or 20 C


I started a BIABacus but haven't been able to go all the way through due to time constraints. Wish work wouldn't get in the way of important things like brewing!!

Any thought or advice are greatly apreciated!

BIABacus PR1.3T - APA - Sierra Nevada Pale Ale Clone(BYO) - Batch A0.xls
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Last edited by jrstephens65 on 14 Sep 2016, 23:01, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #2 made 8 years ago
by goulaigan
Hi jrstephens65. I am assuming the recipe maybe gave some more details then what you have listed above, since there are no volume numbers that I can see. Unless you know the VAW for sure you may be better to use the IBU field under section D. If indeed this is all the info you have from the original then it will be difficult to get everything the same, as this is a good example of a low integrity recipe however it doesn't mean you can't brew it, just may come out a little different than the original.

For the grain section, I see you put in 10lbs instead of 9 for the base malt unlike your numbers above. Best bet is to keep it the same as above, then Biabacus will calculate what you should use on the right side to get the volume you want at the OG you want. When you get your hops put in whatever AA% they are on the right side of section D andit will adjust the amounts as well.

For dry hopping, really depends who you ask. Personally I don't bother with a secondary, ever. Some people always use a secondary, and some use only when dry hopping, often so they can wash the yeast from the primary without the extra hops. (I have washed yeast from dry hopped primaries successfully)

If I am dry hopping I usually wait until I am sure the bulk of fermentation is done, (gravity stops dropping for 3 days or so) and then dry hop for 3-5 days right in the primary, and then package.
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My Second AG BIAB

Post #4 made 8 years ago
by jrstephens65
Thanks guys! I was considering going to a 90 min boil as well. Looks like I forgot to add this info as well. Sorry trying to do too many things at once.

(5 gallons/19 L, all-grain)
OG = 1.052 FG = 1.011
IBU = 37 SRM = 10 ABV = 5.3%

Thanks again for the info.

James


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Post #6 made 8 years ago
by Mad_Scientist
I found the BYO recipe. If you add all the time that the grain is in contact with the water, it adds up to about 90 mins. A 90 mins. mash is recommended.
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My Second AG BIAB

Post #7 made 8 years ago
by jrstephens65
Mad_Scientist wrote:I found the BYO recipe. If you add all the time that the grain is in contact with the water, it adds up to about 90 mins. A 90 mins. mash is recommended.
Hi Mad_Scientist. I appreciate the input. Can you educate me some on the reasoning for a 90 min mash and 90 min boil? I have heard it gives better conversion and better hop utilization but as I am new to both BIAB and AG I want to learn from the more experienced Brewers.

I would have to increase my water volume for sure at a minimum. Do the hop additions stay the same? Just some of the thoughts going through my head.


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Last edited by jrstephens65 on 15 Sep 2016, 07:10, edited 1 time in total.
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My Second AG BIAB

Post #9 made 8 years ago
by jrstephens65
ShorePoints wrote:Take a look at some (not all) of these graphs to see that 90 minute mash gives more ferment able sugars (FS).
https://www.google.com/search?q=Mash+ti" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... Lg#imgrc=_
Why throw it away?
Very cool! Thanks ShorePoints!!

Would I have to add heat to the mash or just let it ride? I lost a couple of degrees F in the 60 min mash last time. I will be trying to insulate better this time.

What are the advantages of a longer boil?


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Last edited by jrstephens65 on 15 Sep 2016, 10:28, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #10 made 8 years ago
by ShorePoints
Take a look around recent topics in the forum for why the preferred times are used.
It is recommended that you unwrap your mash insulation and stir at least once during 90 min. - checking T when you do. if you do not have a temp probe that measures while the kettle is wrapped it's the only way to go. After several batches, you will know how your equipment behaves. You get to choose how much drop in T is important to your batch - stay true to the starting T, do not raise it above that original target at the beginning of the mash.
I will remove the down comforter from my kettle at ~50 min through my 90 min mash today so that I can give it a stir. If the T is 3 or more degrees C low, I will check to see that the bag is off the bottom of the kettle and add heat whilst gently moving a stirrer and watching the thermometer. Once back to target, wrap it again and wait.
The 90 min boil time is to distill off the portion of water that is part of the full volume mash that is part of the whole BIAB approach. Trust the BIABacus, it works.
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Post #11 made 8 years ago
by Scott
I believe the 90 minute mash helped to drive off DMS, if memory serves... Searching PistolPatch's posts on the topic would probably yield additional reasons.

I do very similar as ShorePoints. Mash gets heated once or twice during the 90 minute mash time. When doing this I stir as lid is opened. Then after it is heated and the bag back in I stir mash again before sealing up, and feel it helps keep the mash loose / not compacted, and get higher efficiency numbers. Totally agree that the 90 minute combined mash and "continuous sparge" we do, along with stirring a few times is hugely important.

Whenever I'm reading about those who are struggling with their efficiency numbers with BIAB, they almost always are trying to get cute and not following "the traditional BIAB process", by cutting times or changing other parts of the traditional BIAB process that someone has convinced them are not really necessary... See this very frequently on the occasions I read other homebrew forums.
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Post #12 made 8 years ago
by jrstephens65
OK great information. I have adjusted the BIABacus to reflect a 90min mash and 90min boil. Can't wait to try this batch this weekend!

I am loving BIAB brewing and with your help I am getting down to the meat of the information as there is a lot of differing ideas on what should and shouldn't be done out there.

Do the hop additions stay the same as the original recipe? IE 60 min for the first hop addition or would I need to change that as well?
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Post #13 made 8 years ago
by Scott
Think hops will stay the same. BIABacus will tell you what to do, just fill it out and use it as you go through...
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Post #14 made 8 years ago
by Lumpy5oh
3 vessel brewers do a 60min mash and a sparge. So in essence their grains are in contact with the water for 90min. That is why we do a 90min mash.
The 90min boil is preferred to boil off the Dms precursors.
As Scott said you will keep the hop additions at their original times.

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Post #15 made 8 years ago
by Goodtime
I had done 3 BIAB recipes with a 60 min mash and had missed my numbers by at least .010 each time.

Once I increased the mash time to 90 mins and including a stir or two mid mash the numbers all fell in line.

I am still only doing a 60 min boil though... :think:
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