I too got my first BIAB done this weekend (Neil's Amarillo APA, modified to use Centennial hops), and enjoyed it a lot. Learned a few things, and came away with lots of questions.
I need to speed-up my process -it took about 6 hours but I was doing everything very cautiously!
My time to get 16L water to strike temp (68C) was 25 mins, so I'm considering putting a blanket over the lid during my next heat-up.
My pot (S/S, 19L, 30cm dia, 28cm height) held it's 65C mash temp very well for 90mins, with a blanket around it.
I wasted time between pulling the grain bag (homemade) and starting the boil - next time I'm going to use a rack & colander in top of the pot, to drain straight back into it, and will start the boil whilst this is happening.
It took me 35mins to get a boil (on my stovetop's wok burner), and my boil was a bit weak -Next time I'm planning to "float a bowl" and insulate the pot whilst heating up (removing the lid during the boil, of course).
After I'd sat the boiled wort for 10mins, my cooldown to 18C took 40mins, in a sink filled with water and frozen bottles.
I found the transfer to fermenter quite tricky, as I poured it in manually, through a sieve. Think I disturbed the kettle trub too much, so ended up with 2.5L of liquid as trub. I did tilt the pot for 10mins before pouring, but did a fairly jerky, discontinuous pour, so need to either improve that or use a siphon.
Finally, I don't understand how my 2-piece airlock works! It's the cylindrical type that appears to have no vent for CO2 to escape. The fermenter is bulging/swelling nicely, in a 15C cupboard, at 16C itself, getting a nice crust on top of it (I used Munton's Gold dry yeast, sprinkled not rehydrated). I'm pleased that my cupboard temp is pretty low, might try the schwartzbier next).
I know that's a lot of different points, but just thought I'd put it out there - I reckon I can get my brewday down to 4:30hrs with some effort! Can't wait to taste the beer!
Pete
Post #2 made 14 years ago
If you check the lid of the airlock there should be some tiny holes in it.
AWOL
Post #3 made 14 years ago
Great to hear things went well, congratulations on making beer. 
Don't concern yourself with the length of your brew day; you're supposed to be enjoying yourself so the longer/the better, right? Concentrate on getting your process down to a set of repeatable actions, the time savings will come along as you learn to multi-task. Until then, I would suggest you get another batch going to further hone your brewing skills. Remember, "practice makes perfect".
---Todd
Don't concern yourself with the length of your brew day; you're supposed to be enjoying yourself so the longer/the better, right? Concentrate on getting your process down to a set of repeatable actions, the time savings will come along as you learn to multi-task. Until then, I would suggest you get another batch going to further hone your brewing skills. Remember, "practice makes perfect".
---Todd
WWBBD?
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America
-
Post #4 made 14 years ago
non.operational,
Make sure you cover is on the fermenter tight. Make sure that the airlock is working properly! If the bottom of the air lock clogs with trub pressure can build quickly and you will be washing the walls! I ran out of ferm-cap (to reduce bubbles) last brew and forgot to buy some. The very first brew without it the vent clogged and I spewed "Peat smoked coffee porter" all over! Remember also that once the wort has cooled that everything that touches it must be sanitized!
Make sure you cover is on the fermenter tight. Make sure that the airlock is working properly! If the bottom of the air lock clogs with trub pressure can build quickly and you will be washing the walls! I ran out of ferm-cap (to reduce bubbles) last brew and forgot to buy some. The very first brew without it the vent clogged and I spewed "Peat smoked coffee porter" all over! Remember also that once the wort has cooled that everything that touches it must be sanitized!
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV
http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV
http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America
-
Post #5 made 14 years ago
Good Day, Have you thought of OPEN fermentation?? see http://www.northernbrewer.com/connect/e ... mentation/
And if you live in DustyLand, a towel will help keep dirt and flies out.
And if you live in DustyLand, a towel will help keep dirt and flies out.
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America
-
Post #6 made 14 years ago
It's safe enough just to place the lid loosely on top of the bucket while the heaviest of the fermentation takes place (set the bucket in a tub or on a towel) and then snap it on tightly once the bulk of the "wild stuff" is over.
WWBBD?
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America
-
Post #7 made 14 years ago
Great, thanks for all the replies Chaps!
Yeah I won't worry too much about speeding things up - I really enjoyed the whole process of making something new from raw materials, but just want to get more efficient at it.
For my second batch I'm planning on changing only two things about the recipe - Dry-hopping, possibly with some Cascade pellets I've got, and switching my yeast from Munton's Gold to Safale US-05 (will this yeast work at 15-16C fermentation?).
Think I'll bottle the first batch one evening, then brew the second batch the next day.
Thanks again,
Pete
Yeah I won't worry too much about speeding things up - I really enjoyed the whole process of making something new from raw materials, but just want to get more efficient at it.
For my second batch I'm planning on changing only two things about the recipe - Dry-hopping, possibly with some Cascade pellets I've got, and switching my yeast from Munton's Gold to Safale US-05 (will this yeast work at 15-16C fermentation?).
Think I'll bottle the first batch one evening, then brew the second batch the next day.
Thanks again,
Pete
Post #8 made 14 years ago
I'll check out the Open Fermentation video in the morning - sounds like a good option, and maybe a way of simplifying.
Post #9 made 14 years ago
A good way to speed up a brew day is to speed up the water heating phases
More power
More power
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Post #10 made 14 years ago
Grunt, grunt, gruntstux wrote:A good way to speed up a brew day is to speed up the water heating phases
More power
Last edited by hashie on 31 Jan 2012, 08:28, edited 3 times in total.
"It's beer Jim, but not as we know it."
Post #11 made 14 years ago
Congratulation non-op 
,
I think it sounds like you did a great job
.
I'm not familiar with Muntons Gold yeast - maybe some of the other guys here are. US-05 could possibly be a better alternative for you on your next pale ale and you can use it for the schwartzbier as well.
Good on you,
PP
,I think it sounds like you did a great job
.I'm not familiar with Muntons Gold yeast - maybe some of the other guys here are. US-05 could possibly be a better alternative for you on your next pale ale and you can use it for the schwartzbier as well.
Good on you,
PP
If you have found the above or anything else of value on BIABrewer.info, consider supporting us by getting some BIPs!
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Australia
-
Post #12 made 14 years ago
Munton's Gold is a fine enough yeast. I used it once for a stout
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Post #13 made 14 years ago
Hi, time for a quick update. Thanks again for the replies.
My first batch has been in Coopers PTE bottles for 1week, THEY'RE firming-up at room temperature but not showing signs of exploding. I used a priming sugar calculator and John Palmers graph, aiming for 2.2vols, gonna try my first beer after 2weeks of conditioning.
So I got on and brewed my second beer, the Weissbier from this site (except I used Perle hops, adjusted according). Overall it wasuch easier than the first batch, as I vaguely knew what I was doing! 'Floating a bowl' seemed to speed up my heating, and I did a decoction mash (20mins boil) to step up to mashout temp: My chill in a water bath seemed to take ages again, so I'm considering doing a no-chill next time. Does anyone think I'd be ok using the collapsible type water container http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0042EY" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... mdp_mobile or do I need to get a more sturdy Jerry Can?
Thanks in adv!nce, will re-post when I taste my beer!
My first batch has been in Coopers PTE bottles for 1week, THEY'RE firming-up at room temperature but not showing signs of exploding. I used a priming sugar calculator and John Palmers graph, aiming for 2.2vols, gonna try my first beer after 2weeks of conditioning.
So I got on and brewed my second beer, the Weissbier from this site (except I used Perle hops, adjusted according). Overall it wasuch easier than the first batch, as I vaguely knew what I was doing! 'Floating a bowl' seemed to speed up my heating, and I did a decoction mash (20mins boil) to step up to mashout temp: My chill in a water bath seemed to take ages again, so I'm considering doing a no-chill next time. Does anyone think I'd be ok using the collapsible type water container http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/aw/d/B0042EY" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... mdp_mobile or do I need to get a more sturdy Jerry Can?
Thanks in adv!nce, will re-post when I taste my beer!
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Last edited by non.operational on 18 Feb 2012, 19:18, edited 3 times in total.
Post #14 made 14 years ago
non.operational,
I don't think that a soft bodied container will do. Thick walled containers get soft with boiling wort put in them. I use some of these http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.a ... d=redirect I also use rectangular containers. These are approved for high heat and chemicals. You have to find some like these in your own area.
I don't think that a soft bodied container will do. Thick walled containers get soft with boiling wort put in them. I use some of these http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.a ... d=redirect I also use rectangular containers. These are approved for high heat and chemicals. You have to find some like these in your own area.
Last edited by BobBrews on 18 Feb 2012, 21:03, edited 3 times in total.
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV
http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV
http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America
-
Post #15 made 14 years ago
The plastic type recommended for No Chill is HDPE, i'm not sure that collapsible container is HDPE, and even if it is, its probably very thin.
HDPE will stand up to the temperatures involved with No Chill and is pretty much inert. Other plastics don't/aren't.
HDPE is Recycle Type 2
HDPE will stand up to the temperatures involved with No Chill and is pretty much inert. Other plastics don't/aren't.
HDPE is Recycle Type 2
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III
5/7/12
Post #16 made 14 years ago
Congrats on your 1st BIAB! Yep, evolve into an outdoor propane burner. You don't have to worry about getting in trouble with SWMBO for messing up the kitchen, it will be faster, and cleanup is easier with a garden hose.
Also-- my brewdays improved by, at least, waiting until after the hot-break of the boil to start hitting the homebrews
Start off with home brewed coffee
Finding your best way to transfer your wort into the fermenter is always a challenge in the beginning. Just keep in mind that it's no big deal if you end up with trub and all in there. Time will settle it out and clear okay. Some believe the trub is actually good for the yeast. I have even forgotten to take out my hop bags and the beer was still great.
Also-- my brewdays improved by, at least, waiting until after the hot-break of the boil to start hitting the homebrews
Start off with home brewed coffee Finding your best way to transfer your wort into the fermenter is always a challenge in the beginning. Just keep in mind that it's no big deal if you end up with trub and all in there. Time will settle it out and clear okay. Some believe the trub is actually good for the yeast. I have even forgotten to take out my hop bags and the beer was still great.
Last edited by Ziggybrew on 19 Feb 2012, 01:57, edited 3 times in total.
Post #17 made 14 years ago
Ziggy, you are so right. It really doesn't matter about trub or break material getting into your fermenter. Time and gravity are your friends.Ziggybrew wrote:Congrats on your 1st BIAB! Yep, evolve into an outdoor propane burner. You don't have to worry about getting in trouble with SWMBO for messing up the kitchen, it will be faster, and cleanup is easier with a garden hose.
Also-- my brewdays improved by, at least, waiting until after the hot-break of the boil to start hitting the homebrews
Finding your best way to transfer your wort into the fermenter is always a challenge in the beginning. Just keep in mind that it's no big deal if you end up with trub and all in there. Time will settle it out and clear okay. Some believe the trub is actually good for the yeast. I have even forgotten to take out my hop bags and the beer was still great.
Last edited by hashie on 19 Feb 2012, 06:08, edited 3 times in total.
"It's beer Jim, but not as we know it."
Post #18 made 14 years ago
Well, it's been a while and I polished-off my final bottle of the Centennial APA this week.
Overall it was great, thick bodied (65C mash) and excellent head retention (possibly from the CaraAmber).
Some of the bottles picked up a Crayola / Elastoplast taste after a couple of weeks, while others didn't. I'm putting this down to poor sanitation (I've since bought some Starsan and started using bleach solution to clean), and also to chlorine (I've now started letting my brew water sit overnight and then adding Campden on brewday).
One benefit after a couple of extra weeks in the bottle was that the beer cleared significantly, and what I thought was a chill-haze disappeared.
In terms of the Centennial hop - I feel like it'd be best used as a very early bittering addition, or a very late aroma addition, but that the beer lacked a bit of depth with Centennial used alone. This brew also made me "move the hops back" to the final 20 minutes on my next APA (Cascade), which is conditioning in bottles now.
Pete
Overall it was great, thick bodied (65C mash) and excellent head retention (possibly from the CaraAmber).
Some of the bottles picked up a Crayola / Elastoplast taste after a couple of weeks, while others didn't. I'm putting this down to poor sanitation (I've since bought some Starsan and started using bleach solution to clean), and also to chlorine (I've now started letting my brew water sit overnight and then adding Campden on brewday).
One benefit after a couple of extra weeks in the bottle was that the beer cleared significantly, and what I thought was a chill-haze disappeared.
In terms of the Centennial hop - I feel like it'd be best used as a very early bittering addition, or a very late aroma addition, but that the beer lacked a bit of depth with Centennial used alone. This brew also made me "move the hops back" to the final 20 minutes on my next APA (Cascade), which is conditioning in bottles now.
Pete
Post #19 made 14 years ago
Yeah I've since brewed a Hefeweizen, a Timothy Taylor Landlord, and a Cascade APA.
The Hefe is great. It initially had a sherry-like twang, having stoped 1.017, but again that disappeared after another 2weeks conditioning. Tastes of white bread dough, with muted cloves. Think I'll use a different yeast next time, as the Mauribrew Wheat was reduced in price and possibly a bit old.
I just tasted the TTL Clone yesterday, and AGAIN feel it needs longer in the bottle (has had 2weeks so far). The laste addition of Styrian Goldings is powerful and lemony, but I'm hoping this will round-off a bit, to be more true to style. Also I need to drink my next on at room temperature, for authenticity and to get a better idea of the flavours.
The Cascade APA will be ready to try this week. I used a little bit of Perle at 60 mins to save on Cascades (which all went in at 20/5/0mins), but then happily read that Sierra Nevada SNPA also uses Perle for bittering - I'm looking forward to this one.
Pete
The Hefe is great. It initially had a sherry-like twang, having stoped 1.017, but again that disappeared after another 2weeks conditioning. Tastes of white bread dough, with muted cloves. Think I'll use a different yeast next time, as the Mauribrew Wheat was reduced in price and possibly a bit old.
I just tasted the TTL Clone yesterday, and AGAIN feel it needs longer in the bottle (has had 2weeks so far). The laste addition of Styrian Goldings is powerful and lemony, but I'm hoping this will round-off a bit, to be more true to style. Also I need to drink my next on at room temperature, for authenticity and to get a better idea of the flavours.
The Cascade APA will be ready to try this week. I used a little bit of Perle at 60 mins to save on Cascades (which all went in at 20/5/0mins), but then happily read that Sierra Nevada SNPA also uses Perle for bittering - I'm looking forward to this one.
Pete
Post #20 made 14 years ago
Nice to read your update Pete .
Did any of the posts from BoBBrews, stux, Ziggybrew and hashie help you out? Would love to know which advice you followed.
As a general rule, your bittering hops don't add too much to flavour so you shouldn't get too worried about bittering hop substitutions.) One day I should do a side by side between two totally different bittering hops on the same recipe.)
.Did any of the posts from BoBBrews, stux, Ziggybrew and hashie help you out? Would love to know which advice you followed.
As a general rule, your bittering hops don't add too much to flavour so you shouldn't get too worried about bittering hop substitutions.) One day I should do a side by side between two totally different bittering hops on the same recipe.)
Last edited by PistolPatch on 31 Mar 2012, 22:52, edited 3 times in total.
If you have found the above or anything else of value on BIABrewer.info, consider supporting us by getting some BIPs!
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Australia
-
Post #21 made 14 years ago
I've definitely started transferring more wort into the fermenter, not worrying about trub, just as Ziggy and Hashie suggested, so less wastage thanks!
Have decided against no-chill at present (I kind of got stuck on how to transfer hot wort), and plan to buy a wort chiller instead.
The outdoor burner is definitely on my list for the future...
Have decided against no-chill at present (I kind of got stuck on how to transfer hot wort), and plan to buy a wort chiller instead.
The outdoor burner is definitely on my list for the future...
Post #22 made 14 years ago
Hi Non.op#
An outside burner is a great asset. Apart from having more power you also have more control. I started on my kitchen stove and apart from having to have it flat out all the steam did nasty things to the decor.
As for your trub management I built one of these Here. It works a treat.
An outside burner is a great asset. Apart from having more power you also have more control. I started on my kitchen stove and apart from having to have it flat out all the steam did nasty things to the decor.
As for your trub management I built one of these Here. It works a treat.
Last edited by Yeasty on 01 Apr 2012, 04:46, edited 3 times in total.
Why is everyone talking about "Cheese"
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 50 Brews From Great Britain
-
Post #23 made 14 years ago
Wowzer, impressive piece of kit!
I was also interested in PP's comments re substituting bittering hops. Think I'll get some cheap, high aa% hops for general bittering, then spend more on flavour/aroma additions. Money saving!
I was also interested in PP's comments re substituting bittering hops. Think I'll get some cheap, high aa% hops for general bittering, then spend more on flavour/aroma additions. Money saving!
