19L batch in 24L kettle

First post by kirkcaldybrewer, 9 years ago

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Hi All,
I'm sure this has been asked before, but I'm not getting the right search string to find it.

I'm coming from extract + stove top direction, so my equipment is modest to say the least: a 24L kettle (although I do now have a decent 7kw burner).

From what I can see using The Calculator my largest brew length is 11L for BIAB using my 24L kettle, but what if I want to target 19L (for my cornie)?

Are there any tricks to up the volume? Or would you suggest going with the partial route...

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KirkCaldyBrewer,

If you choose to Mash In A Bag(MIAB) and use Full Volume Brewing.

And your Made of Money, check this Cooler available in Sweden....

How much beer can I get from my kettle?

First post by PistolPatch, 9 years ago

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How much beer can I get from my kettle?
This question is almost nearly always asked by stovetop brewers, and, therefore, I am going to use a 19L/5Gal stock pot as an example in this 'article'. Other brewers who are wanting to make enough beer to fill a 19L/5gal keg or the equivalent in bottles, will generally have bought themselves a 40 to 50 L/quart kettle which is large enough to handle that 'Volume into Packaging (VIP),' (see Clear Brewing Terminology ).

This article covers the following:...

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Hi there jayP :thumbs:. Another Perth brewer - excellent! (Subscribe to this thread .) Feel free to drop in for a beer or a brew day some time.

Glad to hear you are stumbling across a bit of info that might be useful. I'm now working on the new site full-time which has two goals; the first is to make info really easy to find and the second is to get it up and running before I go broke :lol:.

As for dilutions, lost in one of the posts above is... The technique of holding back water from the...

Please check this before I brew

First post by mhtyfman, 9 years ago

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Hello all!

I am new to BIAB, and this will be my first brew. I have a few questions.

1. I believe I have done everything right to make sure my numbers are correct in the sheet, but would like someone to look it over and tell me for sure.

2. When I do this same setup in beersmith, my strike temp comes out much higher than what it does in here. 159* vs 153* is this right? Just so everyone knows, I am using a 15g SS Brewtech pot.

3. In my hop profile, I am not getting the 60 IBUs that is...

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Thanks for the reply Mad and Rick. I am thinking the pot is made well and the bottom actually kept the heat and then it got hotter as well. I finished right on where my efficiency should be for my mash(76.3% / 76.2%). My numbers were off on going into the fermentor due to trub in the bottom of my kettle. It was supposed to be a 5.25 Gal batch, and I ended up with 4.75 Gal into Ferm... I will have to keep that in mind later and change it in my profile.
Does anyone know what section I change...

Stove top brewing advice

First post by Mertyn, 9 years ago

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Hi guys,

I'm looking to get in to BIAB and would like to brew on my stove top. I've been reading up a lot but i'm struggling to get an answer on what size pot is ideal.

I've seen this pot:

I used the biabacus and it suggested I could get approx 8 litres of beer, this doesn't seem like a lot.

My questions are: Is 19 litres enough (if not what should I get?) is it possible for me to get approx 12litres out of a 19 litre pot? Can anyone advise a recipe that would be similar to Goose IPA?...

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Thanks for the feedback.

I'll try to answer as many of the points as possible.

Budget isn't tight, I think I'd be brewing on stovetop for the foreseeable. I've got a gas hob.

I've also got a wife so this needs to be considered :-D

I'm looking for something that isn't too strenuous and can be packed away hence focusing on reasonably sized pots for stove top brewing. Maxi-biab is basically adding water via a sparge?

Thanks

First BIAB, recipe feedback request

First post by chlehb, 9 years ago

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Hi folks

After a few extract batches, I feel ready to try my first BIAB. This is the recipe I want to brew:
onclick= window.open(this.href);return false; ... ipa-citrus

I modified it slightly (hops, yeast, added 5% wheat malt and scaled to 10L fermentor volumne) and punched everything into BIABacus. I'm not sure if I did everything correctly and I'm a bit overwhelmed by the thing. I'm attaching it to this post.

Here are some questions regarding my BIABacus file:
* Why is my TWN lower than...

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Step Mash, or Ramp Mash works Very well with Wheat and Rye Malt, since Both Need a Beta-glucan rest.

A Ramp Mash starts at 113F mash-in, and you need to stir as the mash Warms at 2F/1C per Minute until your at the Final 30 minute Conversion temperature.

See

and

biabacus' strike temp is way lower than what Northern Brewer

First post by gvhorwitz, 9 years ago

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Hi,

I've just brewed a nice Northern brewer 3 gallon, Dead Ringer IPA biab kit. when I looked at the recipe on Northern Brewer's document it calls for a strike temp of 72.2 C,. But the Biabacus says that the strike temp should be 68.7C.

NB says that my OG should be 1.060, Biabacus says that my OG should be 1.044. What am I messing up here in my biabacus?

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Pistol Patch is correct, as usual. I took up baking bread before brewing beer and I heartily agree. There is a little variance in bread ingredients (all purpose flour, bread flour, other kinds of flour and % water content) but nothing close to what we have in brewing. Technique at final bread dough proofing and steam in the oven makes things come out different, but again brewing has tons of variables even after flame out. A kit is just a kit and while you can weigh out separate hops and add...

BIABacus, hopping, SMaSH etc.

First post by Esquid, 9 years ago

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So, I've been having a look at the BIABacus. I think I've got the idea now but I have a quick question or two regarding hopping. Specifically I've been looking at this one which is nice and simple, a good starting point for my plan:

BIABacus PR 1.0 - American Pale Ale - NRB%27s All Amarillo APA.xls

I'm planing as SMaSH brew as a simple introduction using Maris Otter malt. So deleting the two superfluous malts I can see that the grain bill for the remaining malt is increased to make up for the...

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If anyone needs the Current Link .....download/file.php?id=3265

FWIW.

strike temp

First post by gvhorwitz, 9 years ago

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Hi,
I'm getting ready to brew a northern brewer irish red ale. (3 gallon/11.36L batch) The instructions with the package say the strike water should be 162F degrees/72.2C.
But, biabacus says assuming that my grains are 80F/26.7 that I should strike at 153.8F/67.6C.

162F compared to 153.8? what am I not getting?

Thanks in advance

Greg

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I know them, they're super helpful and patient.

They'll be the guys I get my supplies for my first non-kit recipe

first recipe entered into biabacus. have I done it right?

First post by garvin, 9 years ago

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Hi, I am new here and getting ready to brew our first batch soon. Still getting equipment together and learning as much as I can before I start. I have started using the calculator and am hoping somebody would be kind enough to check the recipe and make sure I have entered everything correctly. I'm still learning how to use the software.

One of the recipes that cough my interest is the galaxy pond pale ale from the beersmith page.

To my untrained eye, appears to have integrity and pretty...

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VAW is a post-boil volume. Boil size , I assume the brewer in this case means pre-boil volume (or VIB as far as the BIABacus is concerned). I wouldn't worry about these values being different.

Read here for more information. Note the relationship between VFO and VAW is simply the temperature decrease, and resulting shrinkage of volume that occurs with the temperature change.

VAW is certainly a key piece of information. You have to be a bit of a detective, and mess around with some numbers...

Planning my first brew - comments welcome

• 1
• 2

First post by daveshep, 9 years ago

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Hi All, Have been planning my first BIAB brew (and my first all-grain brew). I'm going to use a slightly modified NRB's APA recipe. I've got some local NZ Cascade hops (AA 7.2%) already so will use them instead of Amarillo (which seems a bit hard to find in NZ right now). I've filled in BIABacus as much as I can figure out based on my reading of forum posts and my own equipment. Looks like my 32L brewpot is a bit too small to get 23L into the fermenter so I've gone for 19L VIF. File attached....

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Thanks PP, I'll have a play around with it and plan how I'm going to chill my next brew. I'll have to work hard on being patient and not dumping the ice in too early/hot.
Cheers
Dave

Substituting Malts and Hops

First post by Philip321, 9 years ago

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What do you do when you cannot get a certain malt or hop for a recipe?

Do you ask your supplier to give you something similar.

I've just spent the whole morning looking for a recipe but certain ingredients are not available with my supplier.

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Todd, Excellent Link, Thanks!

New to AG and BIAB, need some guidence

First post by Pasbrewer, 9 years ago

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So I'm planing my first AG brew (an APA) using the BIABacus and would really appreciate it if somebody could take a look at what I've done and give me some feedback on what I could change to improve it. Any help would be greatly appreciated!

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I normally do a 60 minute boil, I only do longer boils for high gravity beers where
I want the gravity points from a thinner mash and longer boil. I have never had any issues with DMS in any of my beers.

I think as long as you have a good rolling boil that in most cases 60 minutes is enough. If you are worried about DMS and are using a large amount of Pilsner malt 90 is on the safe side.

I also usually don't start my boil timer until the wort has come to the boil and settled down a bit so...

Too much very fine grain 'flour' in my grain order

First post by chesl73, 9 years ago

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I recently ordered two separate grain bills from a new grain supplier I'm trying out.
I asked for the grain to be milled and for it to be a bit finer as it's for BIAB.
I did a brew yesterday with one of the grain bills and I noticed that there was a lot of very fine almost like powder/flour in with the grain that was in my kettle.
My kettle doesn't have a ball valve so when I transfer to the fermenter I usually simply have a standard kitchen fine sieve over the opening to the fermenter and I...

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Lots of good info above :peace:.

Also make sure you read What Should my Crush Look Like?

The only time you should consider double-crushing is if your mill has crappy knurling such as at my LHBS where the knurling can allow a grain, if it falls a certain way, to pass through the mill uncrushed. In that case, a second run will often get those uncrushed grains and not pulverise the already crushed ones too much.

If I ran grain through my mill twice which has excellent knurling (a grain can't...

Honey Wheat Ale Recipe

First post by TheSeaWolf123, 9 years ago

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Hello, I was wondering if some of you could check out the recipe for a honey wheat beer that I made.

I want to shoot for 2.5 gallons into the fermentator.

OG: 1.050
FG: 1.013
Yeast: US-05 Safale
Malt: 6-Row 2.6 lbs
Rahr Red Wheat 2.1 lbs
Honey Malt .25 lbs
Hops: Centennial ~10% AA .3 oz 60 min.

My LHBS seems only to have Rahr red, white, and unmalted wheat malt. Which one should I use? Also, the red and white both require the use of rice hulls. So, how much of that should I put in?

Is a...

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Hi Seawolf123, I just wanted to add that I have attempted several honey beers using Gambrinus honey malt. I have used up to 1 pound in a 1.05 OG batch (my batches are usually 23 litres into fermentor), and I have yet to get much of a honey taste. Not sure if the honey malt you are using is Gambrinus or not. One thing I have found is that the honey taste seems to come out a little more with a couple months aging, but still quite subtle. I think you would be OK to go up to half a pound on this...

My Planned Brew - Comments Wecome

First post by topendbrewer, 10 years ago

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Edit: 21/02/2015; brew done everything went well. Thanks to all who commented on my post

Hello fellow brewers, I was hoping you could have a look at the recipe I'm planing for my BIAB brew day this weekend. I've done 2 BIABs before a few years ago. Since then I've been brewing by traditional 3 vessel means. The BIABs were my first all grain batches with 60min mash and boils. Looking back on my Beersmith recipes for these BIABs I could see my brewhouse efficiency was 68.5% so I scaled this...

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Scott, I just fermented and kegged the 2nd cube of the batch on the weekend, haven't sampled this as yet.

How did the second batch come out?

1st BIAB NRBs APA vs Pale Ale Kit - taste test

First post by chesl73, 9 years ago

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I recently did my first BIAB (mini-BIAB) and after three weeks in the bottle I put one in the fridge earlier today.
I've been brewing 'enhanced' kits for 12 months and I was really interested to see if I could taste the difference between one of my Pale Ale kits (it's a clone of a well known Australian pale ale called Fat Yak) and my first all-grain brew.
It's fair to say that the BIAB takes a lot longer and is more involved than the kit so if I was going to continue doing BIABs I had to make...

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One daft thing I did, when I ordered the grain bill I needed 90g of wheat malt but I accidentally put in 900g!

Yep did that myself recently typo on my grain order to LHBS resulted in 600g of black malt instead of 60g so ended up with an Extra Extra Black IPA.
Nice post by the way
TT

4th BIAB-OG issue

First post by Toca, 9 years ago

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Brewed my 4th beer, this time i tried different approach. i always did soaking for my Full volume variations instead of sparging.
Could it be that that affected my efficiency now, since i ended up with the similar volume ,but much lower OG.Or is it a issue with during boil since it is a lower eff too. I got pretty good rolling boil the whole time.
I attached a file for a better insight..

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A1. I dont have good enough records yet,since it's my 4ht brew and previos ones,usualy lacked one or two measurements,being a newbie that i am,and concentrating more on the process.
A2. my two first brews i designed myself and first was planned lower ,but ended on 1.070,due to me not adding Full volume variations,and ending up 4 liters less VAW.Second was planned at 1.053 ,and i ended up 1.052) ,third was a Founders porter clone planned on 1.068 ended 1.066.
Thats,in fact, is all the brewing...

Storing Milled Grain

First post by chesl73, 9 years ago

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Hi

I'm on my 3rd mini-BIAB and for each one I've been ordering the exact grain bill, having it milled and posted to me.
The issue with this is that the postage is costing as much as the grain.

I don't want to spend $250 on a grain mill and buy and store unmilled grain so I'd like to buy a certain number of milled grain bills and go and make the trip to pick it up and then have them ready to go for the next X brews.

My question therefore is:
- How long can you store milled grain for?
- What...

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Buying In Bulk saves $$$$$.

Measuring a standard amount into a vacuum Bag, and sealing it and Freezing it, can help brew Beer for 6 or More Months.

BTDT, YMMV

9L wort in a 30L fermenter

First post by chesl73, 9 years ago

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I'll have a bit of time on my hands over the Xmas period and I'd like to get two brews on the go. I typically have about 9L VIF. I have a 15L fermenter that I typically use for this but if I want to have two on the go I'm going to have to put one of the brews in my larger 30L fermenter.
Is there any issue having the 9L wort fermenting in a 30L vessel? I'm not sure why I think there would be but just thought I'd check.

Thanks

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Ok thanks, so no problems then. The only small thing is I can't fit two fermenters in my temp controlled fridge but I can deal with that.

Greetings from a rookie....haven't brewed yet but have a few

First post by Ninkas1, 9 years ago

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I wanted to start this thread before I brew to increase the likelihood of success. I'm still in the process of assembling my ebiab system (from Brausupply). I have a few questions to start:

1. In Biabacus after I enter my kettle size (a 36QT Bayou Classic). It populates the kettle fill height and kettle head space....I understand this...but because my kettle has two heating elements do I need to adjust for this volume displacement or is it negligible at the size I'm hoping to brew VIF=3...

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I am new to BIAB, and have had good results re-hydrating and making starters by using the processes outlined here:

Dry Yeast Re-Hydration:
Liquid Yeast Starter:

Jim

Hops stands vs 0min additions and Slow Chill

First post by chesl73, 9 years ago

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I noticed in the new Gordon Strong book a few of his recipes ask for a hop stand and the recipe might say something like:
Centennial + 10 mins.

I've just had a read about hop stands as it was new to me and I've a few questions I'm hoping you more experienced brewers can help me with..

- What does the + 10 mins mean? Does this mean add the hops at flameout for 10mins and then take them out (via a hopsock) or does it mean let the kettle stand for 10 mins and then put the hops in (and just throw...

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Isn't that what I was saying?

Sure, a lot of people start out trying to make a commercial beer they like but then regularly use other Brewers recipes for inspiration.

Often trying to replicate recipes can help you refine your own processes and improve your brewing. It's all part of the fun!

Need to confirm kettle volume in BIABacus

First post by Streamer, 9 years ago

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Hello folks, I've got a 15.5 gallon keg as a brew vessel. I've attached a photo of it. In a previous post, Mad Scientist suggested inputting the keg diameter as 39.2 cm, the height as 42.4 cm, and in the area for adjustments (x) 4.3 liters for the shape of the keg - is this the brew vessel shape you were referring to? I've pegged the dimensions into the BIABacus and looked at the output and think I understand the logic. I just want to confirm that this gets me started in the right direction on...

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I'm going to do a boil off tomorrow with just water to determine my Change evaporation rate in area X of the Biabacus. I know this not a precise figure, but given the shape of my kettle, I think it will be a good place to start. My plan is to fill the kettle with 5 gallons of tap water (there's that damned US thing again!), bring it to a boil and let it run for an hour. then I'll measure the amount left and determine the amount boiled off.

Any suggestions? Should I use 8 gallons instead, since...

Vorlauf - adding grains - how to for BIAB?

First post by chesl73, 9 years ago

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Hi

I was leafing through a Gordon Strong book today and in many of his recipes he is adding grains during vorlauf.

Given my brewing process is a fairly rudimentary BIAB process with no sparging or vorlauf (didn't know what it was until I read it just now!).

If I was to follow one of these recipes how could I do it given my standard BIAB process? Just throw them into the main mash with all the other grains would be the obvious answer but was wondering if there was more to it?

Thanks

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Thanks Mally, it was a good Read.

How long to reach target final gravity?

First post by chesl73, 9 years ago

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I've got a brew on the go, it went into the fermenter on Sunday.
I've been looking for the usual krausen which has been happening but it's hardly been vigorous. The original gravity is 1.056 and I took a sample yesterday and measured the gravity at 1.025. So that is 3 days after pitching the yeast. Ideally want to get to about 1.014.

I'm a bit worried I've under sized the amount of dry yeast.

Question is, is there a view as to the progress over say one week as to how far the brew should go...

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RDWHAHB!
Relax don't worry have a home brew!

Bass Pale Ale Clone

First post by cuthburtb, 9 years ago

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MODNOTE: Cuth was having a little difficulty posting the BIABacus file. Have renamed thread. Jump down to here.

I have been trying to attach a BIABacus PRI .3T file to a post under recipes, its xls ? any help would be appreciated

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Thanks Pistol for the fantastic info, its Thanksgiving here in America this is the first chance i have had to peruse your very helpful reply. I am beginning to see what a great tool the BIABacus is.