From Mash to Lauter (Water to Sweet Liquor)

1. So I'm reading this book...

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   First post by BungBrew, 11 years ago

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   I'm currently reading a book on IPAs and has a lot of history on brewing in England in the 1700's and 1800's. One thing it seems was commonplace back then was to do a mash and use the first runnings as the strong ale, fill up and mash again and use the next runnings as table ale etc with it being recorded this was often done 4 times to produce beers of varying strengths.
   
   So has anyone tried this with modern grains and BIAB? It would be interesting if you could do a FV mash and use the wort as...

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   Good Day the Partigyle system can be done with BIAB.
   
   I start with 1.055 x 5 gallon mash, the Put the bag into another 4 gallon Kettle and get 1.035 x 2.5 gallon batch. This makes a good batch of 1.014 beer and a fair small batch of 1.004 session Beer.
   
   The color is Lighter, and the flavor is much lighter, so it may not fit your Tastes.
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   Last post by joshua
   11 years ago
2. Is a Kettle Efficiency of over 100% Possible?

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   First post by PistolPatch, 12 years ago

   

   [NOTE: This question was asked in another forum recently and links were made to BIABrewer.info. alymere and a few others are doing a great job on that other forum in this thread . I hope this helps...]
   
   As mentioned in this BIABrewer post , the answer to the question is yes.
   
   Like anything that involves the word, efficiency , things can get complicated very quickly so the following answer is hopefully a good simplification.
   
   Imagine if my standard of efficiency , just to be silly, was to soak 1...
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   Last post by PistolPatch
   12 years ago
3. 48l mash tun

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   First post by lukasfab, 12 years ago

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   Have a chance to buy a 48l cooler mash tun
   Would I be able to mash say 12 kg of grain in that?
   Probably have to do a batch sparge but no Dramamine there
   Main aim is to brew 40l end volume
   
   Cheers

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   Lukas, call me on the telephone re this if you want. I'm pretty sure you shouldn't be buying that esky/cooler though. If you have a 70L pot then, as MS said above, you are okay. Even if you weren't, there are far better ways to go than buying and esky/cooler.
   
   :interesting:
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   Last post by PistolPatch
   12 years ago
4. To stir or recirculate?

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   First post by aamcle, 12 years ago

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   Morning All.
   
   Just a simple question, why do so many people try to recirculate wort when it's relativity easy to use a motor and stir it? My set up uses a stirrer and it works OK temperatures work out well and I don't have to worry about my element getting dry.
   
   I hope that its not cause a nice pump looks better!
   
   ATB. aamcle
   
   2013-08-01 13.36.21.jpg

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   It all worked very well I brewed pale ale on Sat the temperatures held to ±1°C.
   
   If I'd had the right size bucket in the right place it would all have been very easy :-)
   
   Atb.
   
   Aamcle
   
   ATB. aamcle
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   Last post by aamcle
   12 years ago
5. Considering First wort hopping

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   First post by Lars, 13 years ago

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   Guys, I want to brew an ipa. Clear, pale, about maybe 35~40ibus. I'm thinking all lager malt and I want citrus so I was considering all finishing and dry hops would be cascade and I would fwh with Amarillo. I've never done this before(fwh) so I know nothing about it. I thought I'd just throw the bittering additions in after I pull the bag. I then read this beersmith article which has me thinking there's a bit more to it
   This is what I've got in the way of hops.
   
   Frozen:
   Northern brewer 10.4%...

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   I had a lot of success with FWH in combo with cube hopping, where I threw my flameout additions into the no chill cube.
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   Last post by Lylo
   12 years ago
6. Hole in the bag during mash

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   First post by weizgei, 12 years ago

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   I am brewing a Belgian Dubbel today, and while pulling my bag following the mash, I noticed a ~2cm hole in the side of the bag. Sure enough a fair bit of grain had leaked into my pot during the mash, and removal of the bag.
   
   I used a stainless strainer about a dozen or so times to get out as much grain as I could, while heating to boil. Got out around 300 grams in total. I'm thinking it's not going to make much difference to anything...I'm whirlpooling now following my chill, so hopefully...

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   weizgei,
   
   I left my brew bag in the pot while I was on full burn raising the temperature towards the boil. I pulled the bag as the mash rose towards 170F (76C). The bag was touching the bottom of the pot and it melted a hole in it. I didn't see the hole at first. I hung the bag above the pot and squeezed. I squeezed the grain right into the pot! :idiot: The beer eventually turned out OK but I did boil some grain along with the wort. I was recording the boil for a video and got the whole thing...
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   Last post by BobBrews
   12 years ago
7. Calculating hop additions

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   First post by darren131, 12 years ago

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   Hi there,
   
   I want to scale a recipe way, way down; from 19L down to 5L (don't ask questions... just go with me here...)
   
   Here's the 19L hop recipe:
   
   NAME AMOUNT TIME USE FORM AA
   Cascade New Zealand 7 g 60 min Boil Pellet 5.5%
   Cascade New Zealand 14 g 30 min Boil Pellet 5.5%
   Cascade New Zealand 28 g 10 min Boil Pellet 5.5%
   Cascade New Zealand 35 g 10 min Boil Pellet 5.5%
   Cascade New Zealand 35 g 1 min Boil Pellet 5.5%
   Cascade New Zealand 43 g 5 days Dry Hop Pellet 5.5%
   Cascade New Zealand 43 g...

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   Take your digital IPA, for example, and change section b vif, and watch the scaling begin.
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   Last post by Mad_Scientist
   12 years ago
8. very slow bag drain with flaked maize

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   First post by hazard14, 12 years ago

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   :thumbs: G'Day all. My first post here after lots of reading. Just 5 biab brews now and some success with simple recipes with just malted grains . I really want to brew a Harveys Sussex Bitter (which seemed simple but requires Flaked Maize).
   I have found using the Flaked Maize has virtually blocked up the bag from draining. The Swiss voile for the bag I bought from Spotlight drains freely with the ordinary malted grains.
   Any ideas to improve draining?
   
   Wonderful site for information.
   
   Cheers to...

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   Thanks for the prompt reply Joshua. I will try the extra mash step or its another pot to clean.
   At least I might be able to get a better result.
   
   Hazard14
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   Last post by hazard14
   12 years ago
9. Boiling down to volume?

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   First post by Yettiman, 12 years ago

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   Hi,
   
   Still very new to BIAB, and still dialing in my system. I have been over shooting my target pre boil volume and then boiling down to my final volume.
   
   Is this good or bad practice?
   
   I normally make heavy chewy dark beers so if the only issue (if there is one) is potential caremalisation, that will be fine.mi would like to know though, as I am going to attempt a Blonde some time this year.
   
   Any advice, gratefully received.

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   Hi there Yetti,
   
   Boiling down to final volume can be a problem especially with beers that are hop-driven. A better policy is to use less water and top up a little at the end of the brew. This makes things easy.
   
   Another problem with boiling down is that you never really get a good handle on what is going on. If you are spending more time boiling down, how will you get to know your average evaporation rate for example?
   
   One more thing is that when you are boiling down, you are lowering your...
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   Last post by PistolPatch
   12 years ago
10. Tap for Pot

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    First post by pkearney, 12 years ago

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    What is the best way get the wort out of the kettle at the end of the boil and keep the trub in the pot the profloc tablet works well but I still end up with all the crap in the fermenter,would a tap help ?thanks Phill

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    Thanks The Jigger sounds like the go ,better than the bucket I use now PP :)
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    Last post by pkearney
    12 years ago
11. Crushed Grains or Milled grains?

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    First post by PackerFan, 12 years ago

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    Is there a difference? What should it be for BIAB?

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    Thanks, I read somewhere, where grains should be crushed and not milled as milling(grinding?) the grains would release tanins . More info on this here . I have done two BIAB batches and the beer is good, but does not taste as good as my extracts. What you'll need to do here PF is give as much information as you can as why you it is not tasting as good as the extract. For example, is the beer too thin, too thick, too sweet, too dry, off-flavoured etc, etc.
    
    The more info we have on the fault,...
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    Last post by PistolPatch
    12 years ago
12. Big Grain Bill

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    First post by PackerFan, 12 years ago

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    Can this amount of grains be mashed in a 9 gallon pot?
    
    --------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    11.75lb Domestic 2 Row
    1lb Rolled Oats
    1.6lb Chocolate Malt
    80z Carapils
    8oz Caramel 120L
    8oz Roasted Barley
    
    1oz Chinook
    1.25oz Spalt
    1/4 cup cocoa powder
    4oz cocoa nibs
    13oz PB2 Powdered Peanut Butter
    
    Mash at 155F for 60 minutes
    Boil for 60 minutes
    1oz Chinook @ 60 min
    .75oz Spalt @ 60min
    .5oz Spalt @ 20 min
    
    1. Pitch yeast and ferment...

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    PackerFan,
    
    I don't see why you couldn't. I think this recipe is from Zymurgy, isn't it? Good luck with it.
    
    Optimal ready time for this brew is 4 months
    
    I can't wait that long. :nup:
    
    Go Packers! :champ:
    It's All-Grain - Chocolate Covered Beavr Nutz from a member on homebrewtalk
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    Last post by PackerFan
    12 years ago
13. Biggest grainbill in a 40L boiler

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    First post by Lars, 12 years ago

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    Hi, I'm considering an imperial stout. I have a 40L buffalo. What's the biggest grain bill I can mash in a 40L buffalo and still get a 19L brew length? What's your experience? I'd rather not have to top up

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    I have a 40l crown boiler and I managed 1.082 with around 8kg (something like that). My efficiency dropped to 64 I think. That is into fermentor efficiency.
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    Last post by aydanrogers
    12 years ago
14. Overnight Hopping???

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    First post by GuingesRock, 12 years ago

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    I am forever looking for time efficiencies, in a busy life, but at the same time wanting great beer. Also I like to experiment.
    
    I have a beer that I really like that is FWH hopped only (at the rate of 8oz per batch) and it is a single malt with Marris Otter only.
    
    I have read the threads on here about overnight mashing and I found great information on the pros and cons of that. My query is mostly about adding hops to the mash for an overnight stew prior to boiling.
    
    I am wondering if I can...

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    Yes you are right Bob. That was all very well put. I know I am just doing educated mucking around, but it's fun, and you stumble across things, maybe a simpler way of doing things, or a beer that you really like.
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    12 years ago
15. Hop Aroma Oils

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    First post by mally, 12 years ago

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    Just thought I would ask if anybody had tried using hop aroma oils?
    Not sure whether these are just a UK thing, but if you see here , there is a choice of Cascade, Saaz, EKG, & Styrians.
    
    Note; these are used for AROMA only.
    
    Seems easier & possibly cheaper than dry hopping. I guess they are popular too, as they seem sold out!

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    mally,
    
    I have use them for years. When they first came out they were basically bittering hops. I bought them because the syringe looked cool! (Hay, I am a easy sell.) I thought it would be OK for bittering as they were a mixture of hops. They are OK if you warm the syringe first to soften the resin. Don't touch the resin to your tongue to see what it tastes like!!! Your friken tongue will go numb as if you were a detective testing a found coke stash. (don't ask how I know) you will be sorry!...
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    Last post by BobBrews
    12 years ago
16. Guinges Project

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    First post by GuingesRock, 12 years ago

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    I think I have finished investigating and experimenting for my Guinges project. I’m off now for a week or two to finalise the project and give you all a much needed break. I can report back with results. Say right now if you don’t want a report, or forever hold your peace :)
    
    The project will incorporate everything I have learnt on here and everything I have developed through experimentation and research.
    
    I have learnt a lot and had a lot of help on this site, and I really appreciate that. I...

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    Thanks for the discussion Lylo, I realise all that stuff. That’s why I said real-ale “simulation” rather than “real-ale”.
    
    The way I do it seems to work to produce low carbonated beer, with less harsh carbonation.
    
    There is a good discussion on all the points you mentioned on the Real-Ale thread.
    
    Good idea about putting the CO2 on intermittently but it doesn’t work (I tried it before here ) because, at these low carbonation levels, the CO2 in the kegs is absorbed by the beer and the kegs...
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    Last post by GuingesRock
    12 years ago
17. Hop Strainer from PVC and high temperature?

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    First post by djavet, 12 years ago

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    Hi!
    
    After years of partial mash, I will jump to the all grain with a BIAB. I order my grain bag + hop bag.
    But suddenly, I've a brainwave and see the notice on my sanitary coupler : HT regarding the norm DIN EN 1451-1
    So I guess I'm ok, but the guy on the shop cannot tell me if a 90 minutes boild will be ok for this kind of hop strainer:
    
    Any advice?
    
    Best regards,
    Dom

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    Your photo looks etherial.. :)
    
    Like an alien ship rising out of primordial soup :shock:
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    Last post by HbgBill
    12 years ago
18. Partial Mash BIAB?

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    First post by GuingesRock, 12 years ago

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    I just finished pulling the bag for a version of my AG BIAB house beer. I have a 16 gallon (60L) pot and it now has 8 gallons of wort in it.
    
    I still make an extract version of the same house beer when I don’t have time to do AG.
    
    Looking at that half empty pot, just after pulling the bag, I was tempted to add extract and water in the proportions that I use for the extract house beer, to double the batch and make two cornys of partial mash.
    
    I might try that next time.
    
    Any issues with doing...

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    Interesting! Thanks Joshua.
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    Last post by GuingesRock
    12 years ago
19. Free Range Mash Experiment

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    First post by GuingesRock, 12 years ago

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    I’ve often wondered about how important it is to maintain a constant mash temperature. I’ve read an awful lot about how to do that and noticed an obsession with the importance of maintaining mash temp and ways of doing it. But I don’t understand why. I can understand it would be important if you were trying to duplicate a recipe.
    I’m after making my brewing as simple as possible, but I will take the extra time to do something if there is an understandable and proven benefit.
    If alpha-amylase...

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    I entered the figures for a free range mash brew into BIABacus. I think I am getting a good efficiency.
    
    I end up with a dry beer, perfect for IPAs to showcase the hops.
    
    Would anyone try not insulating their mash and see if it improves their efficiency?
    
    Note: batch fermented in kettle so kettle figures=fermentor figures.
    
    BIABacus Pre-Release 1.3 RECIPE REPORT
    BIAB Recipe Designer, Calculator and Scaler.
    (Please visit onclick= window.open(this.href);return false; for the latest...
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    12 years ago
20. Happy Hopheads

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    First post by GuingesRock, 12 years ago

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    Here I am, three months into brewing and I'm stuck on one theme, with no inclination to move on.
    
    The theme is IPAs made with a single large late hopping (hop bursting) addition and the hops left in for the ferment to extract more hoppy goodness. I don't really care much about the grain bill and I use a single malt (MO).
    
    My hop bill is escalating in size exponentially and I am fanatically researching more ways of hopping...FWH, dry hopping, Bob's hop vodka.
    
    My pet name for my wife is Bunnies...

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    Not sure Mally. Don’t think so.
    
    Cilurzo coined the phrase “Lupulin Threshold Shift,” defined as
    
    1. When a once-extraordinarily hoppy beer now seems pedestrian
    
    2. The phenomenon a person has when craving more bitterness in beer
    
    3. The long term exposure to extremely hoppy beers; if excessive or prolonged, a habitual dependence on hops will occur
    
    4. When a double IPA just isn’t enough
    
    Just came across that in my IPA book.
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    Last post by GuingesRock
    12 years ago
21. Full body mashing with adjunct

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    First post by ronsonn, 12 years ago

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    Hi, I started BIAB 6 weeks ago. The light to moderate body ales are great but I made an oatmeal stout with lots of flaked oats and flaked barley and it lacks the body that the same beer has using a mash tun and batch sparging. My mash temperature was about 156-158. I also noticed this with a dry Irish stout. I'm ready to abandon BIAB for stouts unless there is a solution to getting more body to the beer
    
    Has anyone else noticed this? Are there styles less appropriate for BIAB than other styles?

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    Sorry I left for the day after I posted my question. My recipe is listed below. It was started on valentines day, hence the name. This was my second BIAB attempt. I have an electric kettle with manual control box. It was challenging maintaining an even mash temp but I tried for 156 but it varied and got a couple of degrees higher at times. I finally gave up trying to control the temp and turned the element off. Now I wrap the kettle in a sleeping bag, turn it off and turn it on for about a...
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    Last post by ronsonn
    12 years ago
22. Residual Sugars in Grain

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    First post by HbgBill, 12 years ago

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    Man, I have SOOOO many questions. I was watching a BIAB series of videos on YouTube this morning and a question arose. The guy said the reason, at least as I understood it, that you Mash Out is to stop the enzymatic activity... I understand that. He also said you get higher sugar levels when you mash out. That part I don't understand. It seems what's in the pot is in the pot no matter if you hit the 170* mark or not. Help me understand that.
    
    So, that brings me to a second question. There is a...

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    Lol!!!
    
    Glad you made some sense of my last post here. I'm struggling to know what I was trying to say in some bits :lol:.
    
    On the tannin thing, these things are guidelines. For example, you should be able to boil your grain (like they do in decoction) and not get a tannin problem if your pH is right. But, would that be true in the case of a crush that has turned the grist to flour? I very much doubt it.
    
    Stuck for time but now that you have got the terminology down, it might be time to get...
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    Last post by PistolPatch
    12 years ago
23. Adjusting Mash pH

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    First post by HbgBill, 12 years ago

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    For you technical folks..... I have been looking at a variety of calculators.. but my tired old brain struggles. I can get to the point where I add my grains and water profile to give me an approximation of what I need to do with the water. The question comes up now.. I get my strike water up to, say, 160* and add my grains and I'm happily sitting at 150* (This may/not be correct.. just example). Now, 15 minutes into the mashing process I find my pH is 5.6 rather than, say, 5.2 and I'd like it...

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    Thanks Joshua.. my 5.6 was merely an example. I have no idea of what and were things will be when I take a reading. Just trying to be prepared ahead of time. I could just run a batch and see what it tastes like.. but, if I have the pH meter and adjusting up/down a few points might make a difference.. I'd like to do it.
    
    I never saw the table that bk had.. in fact I've seen some of his writeups.. but not this one. The table makes things relatively simple.. at least for me. It may not get me...
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    Last post by HbgBill
    12 years ago
24. Clearer preboil wort

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    First post by johnny_dove, 12 years ago

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    Double bag? Finer mesh? Other clever methods? Does some husks and fine grain in the boil matter? Cheers:grin:

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    I'd leave the finest bag in for the entire duration of the boil to act as a hop sock johnny. Hop trub is the finest stuff of all.
    
    Just be careful all the bags don't slow you down too much. You don't want the bag/s taking all day to drain.
    
    Pulling the bags one at at time will be best and fastest.
    
    In fact, you could even pull the fine bag before the boil, rinse it and add it back in for the hops. Or, you could also do this with all the bags as a fine hop sock does drain poorly.
    
    A lot of...
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    Last post by PistolPatch
    12 years ago
25. FWH - Opinions, ideas, preferences?

    13 Replies 16950 Views

    First post by Stitch, 15 years ago

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    First Wort Hopping - Who's doing it? Do you do it every brew? Will you go back to a basic 60min addition? I did it on a whim on my last batch, and just wondering what other peoples opinions were.
    Cheers :D

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    I have an extract version of the same hoppy beer that I still make, as it’s quick and hoppy and nice. I was thinking of taking the plunge into FWH with the extract beer. FWH with extract seems to be almost unheard of. I was thinking of dissolving dme, then throwing in the hops at around 160f, bringing up to hot break, then flame out and no-chill. Am I a complete nut? If so great! Nuttiness is ok with me… but ignorance is not so blissful!
    
    I’m interested in anything you have to say about First...
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    Last post by PistolPatch
    12 years ago