Intermediate Brewing

1. yeast experiment

   4 Replies 6027 Views

   First post by jrodie, 13 years ago

   First post

   ---

   

   I want to do a taste experiment with 4 different yeast strains. My plan for now is to do a simple 5 gallon SMASH recipe and than pour a little over a gallon into four different fermentors, putting a different yeast smack pack into each fermentor. Is there any reason why this won't work? Also should I pour the whole smack pack into each fermentor, or would I be better off pouring half the pack in each fermentor to avoid over pitching?

   Last post

   ---

   

   I agree it well get pricey. I don't have a group of brewing buddies though to do it with. I am just not a fan of some of the smells I get from yeast sometimes and I want to bail down that one yeast that is for me once and for all. Maybe I can make another full 5 gallon beer on top of the winner.
   4 Replies
   6027 Views
   Last post by jrodie
   13 years ago
2. Filtering Idea

   19 Replies 16435 Views

   First post by kartoffel, 13 years ago

   First post

   ---

   

   When I'm going to rack, with my auto siphon, to secondary I'm always careful of the trub at the bottom. In brewing BIAB style this trub has been much larger in volume than with any other brewing technique I have ever used. I wan't to know some other peoples thoughts before I try this idea of mine. I'm wanting to put a small muslin bag, I'll make it myself just for this purpose, on the end of my hose coming from my auto siphon. This should help if I want to get every last drop, and I would...

   Last post

   ---

   

   Simethicone is also used in the fermentation process to reduce the shearing of proteins by agitation.
   So now the debate is Gas-x vs fermcap
   19 Replies
   16435 Views
   Last post by kartoffel
   13 years ago
3. Do You Strain and Squeeze?

   25 Replies 23912 Views

   • 1
   • 2

   First post by smyrnaquince, 14 years ago

   First post

   ---

   

   For context, I am brewing stovetop half (2.5 gal) batches.
   
   After I pull and squeeze the bag of grain, I dump the grain, rinse the bag, and shake it out. (I'm pretty sure everyone does this. ;) )
   
   After I have chilled the wort, I put the bag in my bucket and pour the wort in, using the bag to strain out the hot break. The pouring also helps aerate the wort. I then pull the bag and squeeze to get most of the liquid out. I wind up squeezing because the hot break tends to clog the bag. (Yes, I am...

   Last post

   ---

   

   I'm currently designing one(in my head) for the inside of my buffalo for the next brew day
   
   Have a look Here this works a treat and hasn't blocked once. Drains the kettle almost empty. If I were to make it better I would go with just 2 rows of holes as I think I would get more wort out before the syphon pulls air and breaks the syphon.
   
   Yeasty
   yeasty, I'm eternally grateful my new hop strainer based on yours worked a treat today:
   
   First try today using leaf hops an it worked a treat....
   25 Replies
   23912 Views
   Last post by Lars
   13 years ago
4. Urn temperatures...

   5 Replies 7356 Views

   First post by DanIAm, 14 years ago

   First post

   ---

   

   Ignore this for the interim, I will bring this up again when doing my next brew. Where I emptied the trub in the garden, I noticed a good double handful of grain. Probably from whirlpool, this would have been over the urns sensor/element. I'm still curious as to temperature through the urn so will repeat (with a better grain bag) and report back.
   
   I have a crown 40L.
   
   I was plugging the urn in via an external thermostat. I used to just leave the urn at 110c and control the temperature via the...

   Last post

   ---

   

   Reporting back.
   
   In essence, insulate the urn and it doesn't matter. I hadn't insulated mine and the thermostat wanted to kick in frequently. An insulated Urn will keep the temperature in the ballpark of what's required for the full duration of mashin without any extra heating (at least, that's the case here. Might be different in Siberia during winter).
   
   Thanks for you contributions people.
   5 Replies
   7356 Views
   Last post by DanIAm
   14 years ago
5. Beta Glucan Rest for Flaked Oats

   3 Replies 5613 Views

   First post by Valvefan, 14 years ago

   First post

   ---

   

   Hi all,
   
   I'm going to do a full volume BIAB for an oatmeal stout in a 60l gas fired pot.
   I have read that a beta glucan rest for 20 minutes at 44C will reduce the gumminess of the mash (John Palmer's book)
   
   This is the grain bill?
   3.6kg of 2 Row Base Malt
   0.23kg of Black Roast Barley
   0.23kg of flaked barley
   0.23kg of Crystal 60L Malt
   0.23kg of flaked oats (quick oats)
   
   Is it reasonable to put all of the grains into the bag in the pot and heat to 43C then rest 20 min then heat to my mash...

   Last post

   ---

   

   +2
   
   I don't have a good feeling for when its necessary, I guess it depends on how long you want to wait for the bag to drain. If you have a nice sky hook or can wait a long time, then you might not ever need one. Dunno. Skip it this time and you might get a better feeling for it.
   3 Replies
   5613 Views
   Last post by BrickBrewHaus
   14 years ago
6. Fermented on the trub, no problems and good brew.

   7 Replies 7892 Views

   First post by Guest5234, 14 years ago

   First post

   ---

   

   Was in a rush last month and just pitched my yeast straight into by 70 litre pot after I had cooled it overnight, so my brew fermented out on the trub and crap.......result....I ave done ths pale ale several times and this one is probably my best :party: :o

   Last post

   ---

   

   Fermented the last 3 batches in the cube here too, nothing but yummy beer resulted.
   7 Replies
   7892 Views
   Last post by thughes
   14 years ago
7. Starters

   6 Replies 7158 Views

   First post by kartoffel, 14 years ago

   First post

   ---

   

   I have made a few beers. Only 1 so far was BIAB. I have never used a starter for yeast before. I have made a 1.1OG weizenbock and pitched from a wyeast smack pack that was only smaked for 3 hours and it started to have activity and a whole hell of a lot of it in less than 12 hours. It attenuated properly and was delicious one of the best beers I had ever made. I've used wyeast before and always smack right before I start brew day and they usually are smacked for all of 4-5 hours and always do...

   Last post

   ---

   

   If that's how you like to brew, then who are we to try and convince you otherwise. It all depends on what your priorities are. Relaxation vs. More Work ? Beer is good as-is vs. Trying to improve quality?
   6 Replies
   7158 Views
   Last post by BrickBrewHaus
   14 years ago
8. Can anyone get a recipe out of these leftovers please.

   8 Replies 8234 Views

   First post by Guest5234, 14 years ago

   First post

   ---

   

   5 kg Maris otter malt
   1kg black malt
   100 gms east Kent golding AAcid 7.04
   20gms fuggles aa 5.1
   20 gms challenger aa 8.2
   I have a 70 litre pot
   Any suggests will be brilliant....many thanks.

   Last post

   ---

   

   Wow guest. good going :clap: 1.050 is impressive,be sure to let me know how it turns out.
   
   To be honest I didn't think you would just go ahead and brew it so fast :argh: then again I would have brewed it no problem..
   I have just brewed an APA today from an adapted recipe so as to use up Stock it smells great and I can't wait to get it in the keg.
   
   Promise to let me know how it tastes, I may brew it myself, got a Blanche planned next but that can change..
   
   :salute:
   
   Yeasty
   Will do yeasty,...
   8 Replies
   8234 Views
   Last post by Guest5234
   14 years ago
9. Hops Increments

   8 Replies 8560 Views

   First post by smyrnaquince, 14 years ago

   First post

   ---

   

   When I buy hops in pre-measured packages in the US, they typically come in 1-ounce packages. Of course, when I scale a recipe, it never comes out in even 1-ounce increments.
   
   What is the pre-measured package size for hops in the rest of the world?
   
   I am also curious about how other brewers handle these pre-measured increments of hops. When you scale a recipe and the hops come in at less than the pre-measured increment, do you adjust the time you add the hops for a shorter boil to use the...

   Last post

   ---

   

   I measure all my hops using grams. Using 1 ounce = 28 grams just makes it easy to get accurate measures of 1/2 or 1/4 ounce increments.
   8 Replies
   8560 Views
   Last post by rockbotton
   14 years ago
10. Evaporation

    17 Replies 16811 Views

    First post by BobtheBrewer, 14 years ago

    First post

    ---

    

    My evaporation rate is going up. I use a Crown 40 litre concealed element urn. Whereas I used to lose around 5 litres for a 90 minute boil, now I am losing over 6 litres. I haven't changed anything, and I couldn't describe my boils as vigorous. Better than rolling but by no means vigorous. I do scrape the element cover with my stirrer after mashout, but have done that for a long time now. It is throwing out my calculations and I am reduced to squeezing every last drop of wort out of the trub....

    Last post

    ---

    

    OK PP, I'll put it up tomorrow. Want to make sure I get it right.
    17 Replies
    16811 Views
    Last post by BobtheBrewer
    14 years ago
11. Do Your Efficiencies Match?

    41 Replies 33134 Views

    • 1
    • 2

    First post by smyrnaquince, 14 years ago

    First post

    ---

    

    My Efficiency into Kettle (EIK) never matches my End of Boil Efficiency. The latter is always a couple of points lower. Yes, I do adjust my gravity readings for temperature.
    
    Does anyone else experience this?
    
    On a related note, I am getting a fairly consistent EIK of around 80%. In a different thread I read a claim that BIABers should get around 99%. Is that really realistic? If so, I guess I would need a much finer crush than I am using now. I use the LHBS's crusher, but they don't like...

    Last post

    ---

    

    Oh, no! My thread! Where did it go! :o :lol: You love it Dave ;).
    
    smyrna is a good sport and will find whatever we talk about here interesting. And, it is in the intermediate forum ;). So, while we all wait until we can find a way of collecting figures on the original question, why not talk about colour? :lol: (I love Bob's idea, Thread, lost and found. :lol:)
    
    All I'll say is that the only figures that home brewers can even hope to measure or calculate are volumes and gravities and even with...
    41 Replies
    33134 Views
    Last post by PistolPatch
    14 years ago
12. Ph, Tannins, Ferulic Acid?

    10 Replies 11715 Views

    First post by deebo, 14 years ago

    First post

    ---

    

    Just wondering if anyone here can explain to me the effects of high (I think this is the right term?) ph?
    I took a couple of readings with a cheapo ph meter and some strips on my last brew, results as follows:
    
    filtered water for brew 7.8 ph
    6.0 ph at start of mash
    5.8 after draining bag,
    5.7ph at 38:55 left of boil (mixed grain and added a bit of heat)
    
    From what I can tell this is too high (or low.. I never learned the ph scale properly).
    
    First Question:
    I noticed on they have ferulic acid...

    Last post

    ---

    

    Short on time here, let me know if you want better explanations...
    
    I've read a lot of comments about 5.2 that it doesn't really bring the pH to 5.2. That's the biggest thing (rightfully so since that what it claims to do). But I've never tried it, so take this with a grain of salt.
    
    Regarding acid malt and the link you provided...They say 1% acid malt will reduce the mash pH by 0.1. But this is assuming that the acid malt was not part of the original grain bill. So lets say you dough in with...
    10 Replies
    11715 Views
    Last post by BrickBrewHaus
    14 years ago
13. High Alpha Acid hopping.

    11 Replies 10765 Views

    First post by DanIAm, 14 years ago

    First post

    ---

    

    Forgive me if it's already discussed somewhere here, I searched and didn't see anything.
    
    When bittering, taking for example a Czech pilsener, any reason to persist with lower A/A - e.g. Saaz instead of heaps less of a higher A/A such as Magnum?
    
    Money's too tight to mention as the song says, so just looking at my cost savings. If there is a good reason not to load up on high A/A hops for bittering, then I'd pay the extra.
    
    Is there really any flavour/aroma left when boiled for an hour? For...

    Last post

    ---

    

    I think there is a subtle flavour contribution from bittering additions, but you just need to be aware of it
    
    The more I brew the more I feel that this is true, for example bittering with a citrucy American hop is not the same
    as bittering with an English kent hop. I might be wrong though :)
    If this is true, most hops have a high AA cousin that you can substitute the bittering with it.
    11 Replies
    10765 Views
    Last post by kostass
    14 years ago
14. mash out and efficiency

    21 Replies 17744 Views

    First post by jrodie, 14 years ago

    First post

    ---

    

    I am writing this post to just to share my experience. When I first started BIAB I found myself getting 75% efficiency. Than I started pouring the wort through a strainer on the way into the fermenter, and found I was getting 60% efficiency. I just figured that was a more accurate representation of what I was getting since I was straining out some of the extra debris.
    
    I decided that I wanted to try experimenting a little to increase my efficiency. Last week I did two brews a pale ale and a...

    Last post

    ---

    

    Ok Dan, I'll jump in to your questions.
    
    First of all, I don't sparge and never have. Personally, when there is a brew kettle large enough to contain the full volume of liquor and grain, without overflowing, a sparge is not needed.
    
    I always mashout, the main reason why is to add the specialty malts at this stage, giving better mash results and enhanced flavours from the spec grains. This has been discussed in this thread .
    
    It's my opinion that a mashout will almost always result in a better...
    21 Replies
    17744 Views
    Last post by hashie
    14 years ago
15. Trub management- need help please

    39 Replies 29968 Views

    • 1
    • 2

    First post by Lars, 14 years ago

    First post

    ---

    

    Guys,
    I have a major issue with trub management. i.e. too much goes into my fermentor. It makes it very difficult for me to rinse and reuse my yeast because the quantity of water required to actually get the trub to settle quickly is very large. Anyway, my hop strainer fell off on my last batch and I ended up pouring my kettle into the fermentor through a sieve. I'm going to lose about 4 litres of the 20 in the fermentor to trub and it'll be too much hassle to rinse and reuse the yeast, but...

    Last post

    ---

    

    Think I'll be buying a pack from brouwland and splitting it, good idea Stux...
    
    Thanks
    
    L
    
    Here's a good link on how to split wyeast packs.
    
    onclick= window.open(this.href);return false; ... opic=45866
    
    here's me preparing to split 3 different yeast packs I pre-ordered
    
    splitting wyeast.jpg
    
    I don't bother smacking the pack before splitting anymore and I find I get better results
    
    You can just use onclick= window.open(this.href);return false; to work out your steppings. Just enter 25B for...
    39 Replies
    29968 Views
    Last post by stux
    14 years ago
16. Multiple Rests

    8 Replies 9566 Views

    First post by smyrnaquince, 14 years ago

    First post

    ---

    

    I found this recipe for a Weissbier on the Weyermann site. It has multiple temperature rests, which I should be able to do by heating and stirring the pot at each stage. (A bonus for BIAB, I'd say!)
    
    My question: Do you really think all these rests are necessary with modern grains? I would think that the last two (30 minutes at 62°C/144°F and 30 minutes at 72°C/162 °F) plus the mashout would be sufficient.
    
    The recipe also mentions adding extra LME and a different yeast to carb the beer:
    At an...

    Last post

    ---

    

    I did a 41% wheat Witbier recently. Didn't bother with any rests and did notice the bag drained a bit slower.. nothing squeezing the bejeezus out of it didnt fix though. Turned out really awesome.
    8 Replies
    9566 Views
    Last post by deebo
    14 years ago
17. Reducing Carbonation of a Bottle Conditioned Beer

    8 Replies 8982 Views

    First post by BrickBrewHaus, 14 years ago

    First post

    ---

    

    I have a Janet's Brown Ale clone from BCS that has finished carbonating (OG = 1.065, FG = 1.018). The first two I've tasted have had a really nice hop flavor and aroma, nice head retention; probably the best I've brewed in these aspects. The body of this beer, though, is a little thin and lifeless, especially for a 1.018 FG. I've read that high carbonation can cause the palate to perceive a thinner bodied beer.
    
    I'm gonna take a couple of bottles, crack the top to release the head pressure,...

    Last post

    ---

    

    Did a side-by-side between one with the pressure released a couple of days ago and one as-is. By my palate, they aren't much different. The bottle which I popped the cap to release some head pressure does have more body, the malt profile comes through a little better. However, I did a triangle test with my wife and she was able to pick the odd one out. According to her it was obvious, one was watery and one wasn't :lol: Just that simple to her (she has an awesome palate, she's able to pick up...
    8 Replies
    8982 Views
    Last post by BrickBrewHaus
    14 years ago
18. Whirlpool

    14 Replies 15934 Views

    First post by Shifter, 14 years ago

    First post

    ---

    

    Got a good few BIAB's completed. At the end of the boil I always have trouble getting clear wort in to the cube. I NO chill. I have tried various ways using my large spoon to rotate the wort and create a good whirlpool but always seem to extract hot break and other undesirables in to the cube.
    
    Could someone please explain the whirlpool process and when it should be completed post boil.
    
    Thanks.
    
    In love with Galaxy at the moment!

    Last post

    ---

    

    Well, I gave it a go as instructed above, but the results where not brilliant. Although I finally got more clearer beer in to my fermenter (19ltrs), from my cube, which was a very good result for me. Will try again during my next brew. Thanks for all the above advice.
    14 Replies
    15934 Views
    Last post by Shifter
    14 years ago
19. 60L Maxi-BIAB Brew

    13 Replies 13787 Views

    First post by stux, 14 years ago

    First post

    ---

    

    I decided to fill my 60L fermenter.
    
    I have a 98L pot and my old 50L pot.
    
    Lower gravity recipe and used my CE BIABcalc to calculate the grainbill... whooo 87% end of boil efficiency ;)
    
    Anyway, I doughed in with 80L of strike and 9.9KG of grain
    
    I then dunk sparged with 20L in my 50L pot
    
    First Run off was 73L, and I added the 20L of sparge over the course of the boil.
    
    aiming for a 120min boil (scottish), ended up doing 135 min boil as my evap numbers are still not dialed in.
    
    66L post boil,...

    Last post

    ---

    

    Thanks for the pics
    13 Replies
    13787 Views
    Last post by deebo
    14 years ago
20. Funky mold in my NC cube

    11 Replies 11158 Views

    First post by housecat, 14 years ago

    First post

    ---

    

    Hi all,
    
    I opened up my little 5L NC cube today.
    When I brewed last, I thought I should put the last bit of my kettle in it for starters. Great idea, was a bit of a rushed idea though.
    Today (about 6 weeks later), I thought I'd split it up into 500mL lots for easier management and to feed into my current starter.
    
    I saw what is attached!
    It looks like mold but it didn't smell bad. When I stretched it out a bit it looked like the underneath of a field mushroom. The wort smelled really nice...

    Last post

    ---

    

    thanks, I'll add that to my list for cleaning this cube. I may as well do it before I use it again.
    
    How much bleach would you use?
    
    Just pour in a good quantity of undiluted bleach. Slowly turn the cube over a period of hours so that each surface gets a good soaking, then give it a hell of a good shake. Pour off the bleach (I put it back into the original container for a few more uses} and then rinse until you have no more foam (yes, bleach does foam when shaken). That should kill anything,...
    11 Replies
    11158 Views
    Last post by BobtheBrewer
    14 years ago
21. 50 Gallon BIAB

    9 Replies 12867 Views

    First post by waylit, 14 years ago

    First post

    ---

    

    I have a 50 gallon stainless drum with a large natural gas burner. Is biab possible for a batch this big? I'd be starting with 100 lbs of dry grain. I have a pulley system, just not sure if there is any bag that could hold the weight.
    
    Has anyone used stainless mesh or have any other ideas to pull this off.
    
    Thanks

    Last post

    ---

    

    Pick one of these up from Home Depot for 10 bucks. They have a 2 and half foot handle so it'll get down in there for you and give you the necessary up and down mix action. It's for mixing concrete, but works great for a grain stirrer, just a big ole potato masher:
    9 Replies
    12867 Views
    Last post by Cowgo
    14 years ago
22. adjuncts!

    3 Replies 5450 Views

    First post by db817, 14 years ago

    First post

    ---

    

    It's official. I've drunk the kool-aid and I'm now a believer. I brewed a 5 gallon batch of brown mild using the biab, no sparge method and got 80% efficiency. Now my question is, can I use the biab method to brew with adjuncts? I would like to brew something like a classic American pilsner for the up coming summer, just don't want to embark on a recipe that is doomed to fail.

    Last post

    ---

    

    My experience with using adjuncts with BIAB is that maize in particular seems to produce a freer running mash that squeezes out to a smaller weight of dryer residue, with great efficiency.
    Apart from the Evil Malt Liquor I've made a few rice and maize beers such as Cream Ales. My favourite adjunct is ordinary supermarket Polenta, used at the ratio of 80% malt to 20% dry weight of Polenta, which is then boiled to a mush in a stockpot. I nearly always do a cereal mash as follows:
    
    I generally let...
    3 Replies
    5450 Views
    Last post by Beachbum
    14 years ago
23. Preheating your lagging..Tip ?

    3 Replies 4728 Views

    First post by Yeasty, 14 years ago

    First post

    ---

    

    Its been said that preheating your lagging helps to maintain your mash temperature for longer but I've always struggled to do this with my 2 sleeping bags and bean bag. Today however I hit on the idea of putting the sleeping bags in the tumble drier for 10 minutes. They came out perfectly preheated :thumbs:
    
    Yeasty

    Last post

    ---

    

    Brilliant!
    
    Ill will be looking for an electric blanket at my local thrift stores! The dryer idea will be put into play as soon as I brew again(unless i find the E blanket first.)
    3 Replies
    4728 Views
    Last post by 2trout
    14 years ago
24. Pure Rocky Mountain spring water!

    3 Replies 5993 Views

    First post by 2trout, 14 years ago

    First post

    ---

    

    Is hard and alkaline
    
    The Coors Brewery is always touting its pure Rocky Mountain Spring Water.
    
    Here is what I recently found out about my Rocky Mountain water, and my tap water.
    
    Yearly Range Tap water
    pH 7.75-8.25
    Total Hardness 170-185ppm
    Total Alkalinity 150ppm
    
    Should I be adjusting for pH? or anything else for that matter? The beers Ive been brewing (American Pales)are good but.......could they easily be better?

    Last post

    ---

    

    Thanks Joshua
    
    I will be checking out the links and malts you suggested.
    
    trout
    3 Replies
    5993 Views
    Last post by 2trout
    14 years ago
25. how much water

    28 Replies 24225 Views

    • 1
    • 2

    First post by zapzapper, 14 years ago

    First post

    ---

    

    ok got everything set and ready to go but would like to know about how much water to start the boil with to make a 10 gallon batch i have a 15 gallon keg as a brew pot it is all electric and it is a biab system
    
    thanks
    Roger

    Last post

    ---

    

    Stux you have done great and a lot of work on that program and thanks everyone for all the coments on my system I did the boil test today and the brewer did great I started out with 13 gal and ended up with 11 1/2 gal at the end of a 90 mom boil I think that I will close up the holes where the handle holes are before I do a batch that will give me more room in the keg in case of boil over with 13 gal I was about 3 inches below the handle holes will I will keep you all posted can't wait until my...
    28 Replies
    24225 Views
    Last post by zapzapper
    14 years ago