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Mash out with OTS element

Hi Folks,

I'm in the process of thinking about upgrading from a 40L urn to a 70L stock pot.

My preference would be to use 2 x 2400w over the side elements.

Does anyone else use these?

How do you do a mash out without scorching?

Thanks in advance


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The above statement set off an alarm bell with me. How fine are you filtering? Hi thughes, My filter is 1 micron. Brings the beer up shiny! There is no reason to filter homebrew! The ladies don't like to hear *this part but "*Time and Gravity" clear's the beer naturally. What are you doing? Please ...

The pH above was for APA#1. I did take a pH for APA#2 and I reckon it was around 5.6. Difficult to tell with any degree of accuracy on the strip. However the reading was more pink than orange! APA#2 did have 1tsp Calcium Sulphate vs 1.5tsp in APA#1. I would have thought that the krausen would have b...

Hi PP, I work in IT and did notice the server issue.. Ouch! Buffer makes sense! I suppose I shouldn't even be making water additions without an understanding of the impact! :headhit: However the 2 pale ales I have brewed are pretty much done. Both identical recipes except for: APA #1 dry hopped with...

I knew I should have paid more attention in Chemistry class... :roll: Because I though I knew what I was doing I have added 1.5 tsp of Calcium Sulphate to the mash. I'm brewing an Amarillo APA and my mash pH was around 5.8 (according to pH strips) Attached is a pic of 3 pH strips. Before addition, a...

Hi PP, Gonna do a brew Tuesday night with some water adjustments. :think: Whilst I have been knocking out a few brews tweaking various things it appears that I have no CO2 left. Noticed carbonation levels dropping and gave the cylinder pressure gauge a flick...it shot down to order gas level! Anyway...

My quest continues... I will not be beaten as its for a good cause! :salute: I have taken a sample of wort from my NC cube into a small conical flask and shook it up. The result is a huge stack of foam on top that stays forever. After post fermentation I took another sample of the fermented wort in ...

BobBrews wrote:I am thinking of FWH and dry hopping only? Both ends and not the middle!!!
Most people seem to be indicating that FWH gives a much smoother bitterness.
Although I thought that dry hopping gave a different hop flavour, more grassy like.
When do you perform the dry hop? Can it be in primary?

I'm sure that the experts would tell me that only doing a FWH and no other boil additions would surely not sufficiently bitter the beer. So.....to heck with what the "experts" say, do your own thing and come to your own conclusions. That is one of the many things that makes the hobby so enjoyable! ...

Does the above make you see this whole area from a different perspective though rather than just a chill versus no-chill thing? Yes it does! I have read this recently somewhere and it is making me think that I am simply making things more complicated than they need to be! I understand that the IBU ...

Hi PP, Thanks for the quick reply. Very interesting reading! Another thing that confuses me is BeerSmith's 0 min additions contributing no IBU's! My trub management goes as far as using Whirfloc 10 minutes before the end of the boil. I then leave the wort to settle for about 10 minutes. Then I run t...

Maybe try mashing a bit warmer in your next brew and see if that helps? Hi deebo, Yes! I currently have a brew in primary after mashing at 67c. I tend to mash most of my beers at 65c. But as expected my thermometer appears to be innacurate. So I'm using another one that I have bought and calibrated...

What about an infection? You haven't mentioned any flavors associated with an infection, but maybe its there? I can't think of anything else that you haven't already thought of. I admire your tenacity, if that counts for anything... I haven't noticed any off flavours. Although my beers having been ...

Well, I reckon you shouldn't be filtering a Hefe, with that style you want the yeast to stay suspended and end up with a cloudy beer: Try this to get your glasses "beer clean" and see what happens: One of the easiest home methods is to create cleaning paste consisting of 2 teaspoons baking soda, 1/...

Good Day Dicko, From what I have read, 1 micron is finer than head and body protiens, a 5-8 micron filter will let those protiens thru. Or give the beer 2-3 weeks in a secondary, at the fermentation temperature, and it should be clear, with a good body, and a nice head. Then cold crash and keg and ...

Good Day Dicko, your report shows a small amont of iron, Yeast like it, but, the protiens that give a good head, don't. The report doesn't show the carbonate(hardness) but the iron, and aluminum, show your water is a deep well source, so, you probably have hard water. Most, grocery stores sell 3-5 ...

Am I missing something? The first reason for poor or lack of head retention is hardness of water. Soft water has good head retention and lacing. Hard water has no head retention at all! Try buying water or getting water from someone with soft water. Then brew and look for differences. Water in your...

Sounds like a nightmare dicko :angry:. Only other thing I can think of is changing your base malt if you have been using the same one. Maybe you got some grain with low specs? :scratch: It's very frustrating! Especially as I never used to have any issues. I tend to use Fawcetts MO or GP as my base ...

jakethesnake559 wrote:Hey Dicko,
Have you tried bottling a few out of a batch?
If the bottled ones have good head, then you could rule out your glasses and brewing procedure to focus on the keg carbing.
That is now on my list of things to try! Thanks!

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