I had done a bunch of reading on BIAB and thought I was ready to go. Rather I had done reading on the process and had little to no exposure to recipe selection and tweaking. Yesterday I was bottling my last extract kit so I may as well mash and boil my first BIAB at the same time. Thirty minutes before I had time to go to the local home brew store I realized I still didn't have a recipe. I grabbed Papazian's Joy of Home Brewing book (third ed.) and cut the Good Life Pale Ale recipe in half to a 3 gallon version. While at the store I consolidated two malts (Munich and crystal) to just a one pound bag of crystal malt. Another big question I hit was how much water to use. In a few places I read about starting with as much as 1.5 times the desired final volume so having no better idea or experience I did that.
Here's what I did for a 3 gallon batch:
4.5 US-gallons tap water
1930 grams 2-Row malt
450 grams TF&S Crystal
24 g Fuggles pellets (60 min boil)
14 g Kent Goldings pellets (30 min boil)
~1 g Irish moss (7 min boil)
14 g Kent Goldings pellets (5 min boil)
Wyeast Special London ESB Ale yeast packet
Steeped / mashed for 100 minutes. Grain went in at 152 F with the electric burner just being turned off from high. After 20 minutes (80 minutes left on timer) lidded and wrapped in a large towel it was at 154 F. Still at 154 F when checked with 60 minutes remaining on timer - started the burner on high for 3 minutes and spiked up to 156 F. With the burner off I re-wrapped the towel and it coasted up to 158 F when I checked it at 20 minutes left on the timer. I took these with a candy maker's style red-alcohol thermometer and used the thermometer as a stirring stick.
When I pulled the bag I drained it then dunked it back in the pot, stirred, and removed again. My arms were tired after this.
During the boil I had the burner set to high the whole time, unlidded, and had almost none of the foam and boil up I am used to seeing with extract kits. I don't know if I should worry about this or not.
Here's on place I know where I went wrong. I am using my 5 gallon carboy as my primary for the 3-ish gallon batch. I am sure I risk or will have oxidation but I am using what I have.
I measured the OG at 1.045. The expected OG listed in the book is 1.052 - 1.56. I probably didn't measure too accurately as I only did one sample and don't know how much star-san was still in the thief. Live and learn, and it was about 4 hours after bedtime.
This went into the carboy at about 2 am today and it is now noon and it is bubbling away in the closet. So within ten hours fermentation is going strong.
Post #2 made 12 years ago
Congrats on your first BIAB!
First I think I should mention the BIABacus. If you dont know what it is, its an awesome tool for calculating recipes. You can find the free download here - http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=1869. Its essentially an Excel spreadsheet you can open in open office or Libre office and it dose all the hard work for you and estimates stuff extremely well.
For a 3 gal batch you would be looking to using around 5.5G of water to start for a 3G batch. The BIABacus can take your boiler pot size and estimate all of the volumes for you.
Im not sure what that thermometer is your on about but you really need to stir the mash really well to ensure there are no clumps and dry bits so you get the best conversion possible.
No need to worry about oxygenation in your carboy. CO2 is heavier than air, the CO2 produced will create a protective blanket from oxygen contact.
The great thing about this hobby is that unless you have an infection, no matter if you mess up your still gunna end up with some beer at the end.
So well done on your first BIAB, I suggest you continue your reading on this wonderful sight and check out the BIABacus!!
Balli.
First I think I should mention the BIABacus. If you dont know what it is, its an awesome tool for calculating recipes. You can find the free download here - http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=1869. Its essentially an Excel spreadsheet you can open in open office or Libre office and it dose all the hard work for you and estimates stuff extremely well.
For a 3 gal batch you would be looking to using around 5.5G of water to start for a 3G batch. The BIABacus can take your boiler pot size and estimate all of the volumes for you.
Im not sure what that thermometer is your on about but you really need to stir the mash really well to ensure there are no clumps and dry bits so you get the best conversion possible.
No need to worry about oxygenation in your carboy. CO2 is heavier than air, the CO2 produced will create a protective blanket from oxygen contact.
The great thing about this hobby is that unless you have an infection, no matter if you mess up your still gunna end up with some beer at the end.
So well done on your first BIAB, I suggest you continue your reading on this wonderful sight and check out the BIABacus!!
Balli.
Post #3 made 12 years ago
Great job Mr_Yan! Don't worry about using the 5 gallon carboy for fermenting a 3 gallon batch, I do it all the time...no worries about blowing krausen all over. As to the "lack" of foam and boil up: all grain wort doesn't boil/foam up nearly as much as extract (especially dry extract). Make sure you stir well several times during your mash process as balli stated above.
Now get busy and make another batch because this one is going to be gone before you know it!
---Todd
Now get busy and make another batch because this one is going to be gone before you know it!
---Todd
WWBBD?
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Post #4 made 12 years ago
As balli and thughes have said, you have nothing to worry about so well done Mr_Yan
. Follow through on their great suggestions above.
Only thing to add for now is that when you pull the bag, don't dunk it back in again. If you have agitated well during the mash or mash-out, there will be no advantage in dunking.
Good on you
,
PP
Only thing to add for now is that when you pull the bag, don't dunk it back in again. If you have agitated well during the mash or mash-out, there will be no advantage in dunking.
Good on you
PP
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Post #5 made 12 years ago
Now to dig up the old thread and post results. I've gone silent on here waiting to taste my batch. I also have not brewed another batch yet.
I gave it a week in the primary, about three weeks in the secondary, and 20 days in bottles.
As I mentioned I started with 4.5 gallons of water and this resulted in 25 twelve oz bottles.
I've made 4 or 5 batches using extract from a boxed kit and this the first time I've had to think about more than direction following. Of the 5 or 6 batches I've made this first BIAB is by far the best I have brewed. This beer is darker in colour with some red hues and very clear. Not heavy on hops which I forgot to add when it went to the secondary. The bottle I had poured a nice head almost 10 mm thick which dissipated to about 5 mm thick when I finished the glass. The other bottle had about half the head and it dissipated to nothing in less than 10 minutes.
I still have a lot to learn on this. I grabbed the March / April issue of Brew magazine where BIAB is a cover article but have not had time to read it yet. I'll go digging on here but does anyone have opinions on either Designing Great Beers by Daniels or Brewing Classic Styles by Zainasheff? I have not found any hard copies for sale at my local bookstore and my library does not have them to leaf through before buying.
I gave it a week in the primary, about three weeks in the secondary, and 20 days in bottles.
As I mentioned I started with 4.5 gallons of water and this resulted in 25 twelve oz bottles.
I've made 4 or 5 batches using extract from a boxed kit and this the first time I've had to think about more than direction following. Of the 5 or 6 batches I've made this first BIAB is by far the best I have brewed. This beer is darker in colour with some red hues and very clear. Not heavy on hops which I forgot to add when it went to the secondary. The bottle I had poured a nice head almost 10 mm thick which dissipated to about 5 mm thick when I finished the glass. The other bottle had about half the head and it dissipated to nothing in less than 10 minutes.
I still have a lot to learn on this. I grabbed the March / April issue of Brew magazine where BIAB is a cover article but have not had time to read it yet. I'll go digging on here but does anyone have opinions on either Designing Great Beers by Daniels or Brewing Classic Styles by Zainasheff? I have not found any hard copies for sale at my local bookstore and my library does not have them to leaf through before buying.
Right or wrong I did it - 3 gallon Good Life Pale Ale
Post #6 made 12 years ago
I haven't read the Zainasheff book, but many of the recipes have been converted for use in a BIAB setting.
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-George
"I ride for the same reason dogs stick their heads out of car windows."
"I ride for the same reason dogs stick their heads out of car windows."
Post #7 made 12 years ago
Well done Mr Yan
,
Great to hear everything is tasting great
. I have a new keyboard and am trying to get used to it but somehow lost a lot of what I had written here [Edit: Twice now
]. Here's a shorter version of what I had written...
You mentioned that you need to learn more. A lot of that will depend on what and how much you have read elsewhere.
This place is the home of the original biab brewers and all knowledge developed since on BIAB and a few other subjects as well so best to ask your questions here first.
As for books, both the ones you mentioned are available on Kindle. (If you buy either of these, make sure you click on the amazon link at the top of BIABrewer.info so as this site gets some coin.) I gave my Ray Daniels book away several years ago as the definitions were too vague. I really don't think it is a book for beginners. I'll buy it again now or look at a mate's copy to see if it is worth me buying but, I really think, up should buy Brewing Ckasic Styles first.
To convert BCS recipes to your all-grain (BIAB) equipment, all you have to do is type in the BIABacus, on the first line of Section D, 20.19 L. Leave the second line blank.
Very easy,
PP
Great to hear everything is tasting great
You mentioned that you need to learn more. A lot of that will depend on what and how much you have read elsewhere.
Be very careful what you read whether it be in a magazine, a forum or an article published by a home-brewing association. Similiarly, be careful of podcasts and software.Brewing is actually pretty easy. Most of the important brewing learning I have done has been "un-learning."
This place is the home of the original biab brewers and all knowledge developed since on BIAB and a few other subjects as well so best to ask your questions here first.
As for books, both the ones you mentioned are available on Kindle. (If you buy either of these, make sure you click on the amazon link at the top of BIABrewer.info so as this site gets some coin.) I gave my Ray Daniels book away several years ago as the definitions were too vague. I really don't think it is a book for beginners. I'll buy it again now or look at a mate's copy to see if it is worth me buying but, I really think, up should buy Brewing Ckasic Styles first.
To convert BCS recipes to your all-grain (BIAB) equipment, all you have to do is type in the BIABacus, on the first line of Section D, 20.19 L. Leave the second line blank.
Very easy,
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 23 Mar 2014, 21:40, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #8 made 12 years ago
Thanks PP,PistolPatch wrote: You mentioned that you need to learn more. A lot of that will depend on what and how much you have read elsewhere.Be very careful what you read whether it be in a magazine, a forum or an article published by a home-brewing association. Similiarly, be careful of podcasts and software.Brewing is actually pretty easy. Most of the important brewing learning I have done has been "un-learning."
This place is the home of the original biab brewers and all knowledge developed since on BIAB and a few other subjects as well so best to ask your questions here first.
I guess I need to learn to type what I am thinking. Most of the BIAB process and recipe conversion I'll lurk hear to learn. The place I really get lost with are the grains. What imparts the flavors or colour I want with each batch?
For this batch I just opened I went into my local shop with recipe in hand calling for pale ale type malt, crystal (20 deg L), and Munich (7 deg L). While standing there I made guesses and substituted on the fly and ended up with 2-row (typical colour 1.5-2.5 L) and TF&S Crystal II (typical colour 62-68 L). Even after brewing, more reading, and drinking this I still don't really know what this means.
Last edited by Mr_Yan on 24 Mar 2014, 02:17, edited 1 time in total.
Post #9 made 12 years ago
Mr Yan, I don't think I know either. I think I have an adequate knowledge in some areas and probably an excellent knowledge in several other areas but understanding what a particular grain or hop does is something I am not skilled at and that is why I am pretty good at working out how to translate other people's recipes.Mr_Yan wrote:I went into my local shop with recipe in hand calling for pale ale type malt, crystal (20 deg L), and Munich (7 deg L). While standing there I made guesses and substituted on the fly and ended up with 2-row (typical colour 1.5-2.5 L) and TF&S Crystal II (typical colour 62-68 L). Even after brewing, more reading, and drinking this I still don't really know what this means.
We all have different skills. I have had brewer mates of mine that just have a knack for knowing what a malt or hop does. Those same people, as a generalisation, can't understand why someone like me would want to know their exact measurements
I think to learn the attributes of different malts and hops would be a very long process for most brewers to learn on their own unless they had that 'savant' skill. I think this is an area where mixing with other local brewers and designing experiments could teach you a lot. This is not often done.
There should be a Bi-Monthly Smash of the Month thread done here on this site....
If Todd (thughes) gives the basics, I'm happy to turn it into numbers.
PM me Todd!
Last edited by PistolPatch on 24 Mar 2014, 17:10, edited 1 time in total.
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