Post #26 made 14 years ago
Hi Jerry

PP refers to the US version of the calculator in post #20 above. Here's the link again http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php ... 985#p12862

Download this and open the file. On the Volumes sheet at the top in cells H1,I1 you can select either Metric units or US Imperial. If it says Metric just click on the cells and a little tab will appear click on this and a drop down menu will allow you to choose between the Metric or Imperial option

I'll Look up your recipe you posted later and see what I get.

Yeasty
Last edited by Yeasty on 26 Sep 2011, 00:51, edited 5 times in total.
Why is everyone talking about "Cheese"
    • SVA Brewer With Over 50 Brews From Great Britain

Post #28 made 14 years ago
Hi Jerry

What copy of the calculator are you using? If its the one in the The Master Guide of BIAB Brewing it doesn't have the facility to change units. The one I used for your recipe has the added feature.
I've included a screen dump to show the area to be looking at. Open the WW recipe or the one in the link in post #26 above and have a look.

When you change between metric and imperial the units change in column "C". You then have to change your brew length and pot diameter figures.The rest will auto fill. I think this is were your going wrong :think:

:thumbs:

Yeasty
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
Last edited by Yeasty on 30 Sep 2011, 15:33, edited 1 time in total.
Why is everyone talking about "Cheese"
    • SVA Brewer With Over 50 Brews From Great Britain

Post #29 made 14 years ago
Thanks for this! I wish my country would switch to the metric system. While I know how to do metric conversions, having not grown up with the metric system, it is hard for me to visualize things in liters. Again, I appreciate the link to this version of the calculator.

Thank you!

Post #30 made 14 years ago
thughes wrote:Disaster? JerryMan, do you not have 5 gallons of wort fermenting away right now? You made beer, therefore I would consider this first brew session a success! (You just need to "tune" your process a bit). ;)


My
glass
is
always
half
full

---Todd
Last edited by JerryMan on 20 Oct 2011, 00:10, edited 5 times in total.

Post #31 made 14 years ago
Todd,
In spite of all of my mistakes the beer turned out to be very good. I am about to BIAB a Belgian Winter with all of the new information I have gotten from people on this site. Yeasty has also spent alot of time helping me with volumes and calculators for which I am very thankful. Regards, Jerry

Post #34 made 14 years ago
Yeasty,
Followed the steps that we worked out. Started with 9 Gals of water, did a 90 minute BIAB at 158*F. Put the grain bag on a rack above the brew kettle and drained the water into the kettle. I then did a 60 minute boil as per the recipe. My OG should have been 1073 but was 1066 instead. I should have put 5.40 gals into the fermenter but only got 5.0 gallons including almost all of the trub. Appears that I am short on water again and am also short on efficiency although I must say this is light years better than my first BIAB. Any ideas? Thanks, Jerry

Post #35 made 14 years ago
HI there jerry,

I think you'd need to upload your recipe in 'The Calculator' format for us to help you on the volumes side as there are a few simple errors that may have been made.

As for efficiency, this would need to have been decreased for such a high gravity brew. The default 'mash efficiency' in the calculator is 81.6%. I would lower this to say 72% for a brew with such a high gravity. (Do not use this number in BeerSmith2 as it works on an entirely different efficiency system - see the BIABrewer Beersmith2 guide for more info on this. Once you read that, you'll realise how much easier the calculator is to use :P.)

Here is a link to common causes of low efficiency readings. I have added this 'high gravity' problem as cause number 8 thanks to your post :peace:.

Things will be less complicated when the new calculator becomes available so hang in there ;)

PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 20 Oct 2011, 07:09, edited 5 times in total.
If you have found the above or anything else of value on BIABrewer.info, consider supporting us by getting some BIPs!
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Australia

Post #36 made 14 years ago
PP,
Thanks for the info. I believe this recipe was in calculator format as Yeasty helped me with it. I printed and used it to brew. How would I compensate for lower efficiency? More grain or? When will the new calculator be available? Thanks, Jerry

Post #37 made 14 years ago
Hi Jerry
Sorry to see your brew didn't go exactly to plan, but hey you still did ok. Your gravities are a bit out but 1.066 is still ok just rename it an Autumn warmer :lol: Did you record any other values such as pre boil volume and pre boil gravity ? it would be good to see these numbers as well as the ones you've already given.

Thinking about it I think one of the main problems was that we were trying to fit a HBS recipe kit into the calculator, this had a set grain bill and hop schedule for a set brew length into FV, leaving the efficiency at 83% was a mistake as per PP's wise words :idiot: (me not you PP) but I think this came from the recipe supplier and the numbers seemed to add up in the calculator so we went with it.

I don't know what your plans are for your next brew (I hope you're not quitting) but I'd find another recipe I fancy, put it into the calculator, post it for review and then purchase your Grain bill and hops. This was only your second brew and it will take a while to dial in your volumes/efficiency the next one will be better again just keep at it. :shoot:

Yeasty
Last edited by Yeasty on 20 Oct 2011, 23:52, edited 5 times in total.
Why is everyone talking about "Cheese"
    • SVA Brewer With Over 50 Brews From Great Britain

Post #38 made 14 years ago
Yeasty,
Autumn Warmer it will be. I did not record the pre boil gravity or volume. The volume looked about right but I did not look at it in detail. I will mark my brew pot so I can do so in the future. I already have an all grain kit I purchased for a Celis Bock also from AHS. I have a couple of extract kits as well. Lets say I am doing another BIAB that is also a high gravity beer and my efficiency is lower than it should be. How would I get the gravity to increase? DME, more grain, sugar, or? I can pretty much add water to get the volume correct on these BIABs. I have done about 30 brews in the past but never all grain or BIAB until now. I recently got back into brewing after not doing so for about 10 years. I have since done 10 or so brews. I will finish the kits that I have and then perhaps design a few brews from scratch. Most of what I like are the higher gravity brews. When will the new calculator be available? Regards, Jerry

Post #40 made 14 years ago
Hi Jerry

I think the thing to do with your Bock is to input it into the calculator, set the efficiency to 72% and your OG to what you want. Then manipulate the Brewlength until the grain bill matchs that supplied in the kit. This should give you volumes you need. If you get better than 72% you'll have a higher pre boil gravity which you can reduce by adding more water either pre or post boil.

Yeasty

Edit: There's a new thread been started Here that discusses AG Kits and the calculator. One to watch..
Last edited by Yeasty on 21 Oct 2011, 02:26, edited 5 times in total.
Why is everyone talking about "Cheese"
    • SVA Brewer With Over 50 Brews From Great Britain

Post #41 made 14 years ago
Hi Yeasty,
Why not just adjust the grain to achieve the correct OG at 72%? I think 2 row barley is the base grain for most brews as I recall. I would just make sure I have some on hand before my next BIAB brew session. Jerry

Post #42 made 14 years ago
BIAB achieves a very high mash conversion efficiency, in fact it can be 100%

The more water in the mash the more efficient.

The limiting factor is the absorbtion, the more water you absorb and the higher the gravity, the more sugars you lose

The trick is thus to have as much evaporation as you can so that you can have a higher preboil volume

Which leads to a potential higher mash volume which leads to a higher liquor to grain ratio

I've had 97% into boiler efficiency, but a more normal is about 83%

Biab is not as efficient most of the time as fly sparging but is generally more efficient than batch sparging, except for very big beers

Higher gravity (lower liquor to grain ratios) lose more extract to absorption, so it can be worthwhile to dunk sparge

A good way to increase evaporation is to boil for 90 minutes
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12

Post #43 made 14 years ago
JerryMan wrote:Hi Yeasty,
Why not just adjust the grain to achieve the correct OG at 72%? I think 2 row barley is the base grain for most brews as I recall. I would just make sure I have some on hand before my next BIAB brew session. Jerry
Hi Jerry

You can do that of course, I was thinking that all the grain you had was what came with the kit. If you have some 2 row by all means use it.

Yeasty
Last edited by Yeasty on 21 Oct 2011, 16:54, edited 5 times in total.
Why is everyone talking about "Cheese"
    • SVA Brewer With Over 50 Brews From Great Britain

Post #44 made 14 years ago
Yeasty,
I will buy what I may need and have it on hand after I calculate the recipe and before I brew it.

Stux,
As always thanks for all of the info. Jerry
___________________
Fermenters: Belgian Dark Strong, Winter Ale, Bourbon Barrel Porter, Pale Ale
In bottle: Munich Dunkel, Double Bock, IPA, Belgian Triple IPA, Amber, Porter, Real Ale
On Tap: Cream Ale with Honey for wife.
10/21/11
Post Reply

Return to “Brew Day Stories and/or Pics”

Brewers Online

Brewers browsing this forum: No members and 15 guests