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Misfit Beer

Post #1 made 13 years ago
by GuingesRock
Been designing and making small “test batches” of beer. If batch B is better than batch A... I can’t be bothered to drink A anymore. Then batch C comes along and B is superseded. C gets made in a Corney keg size batch...then bugger it! D comes along and I’m stuck with a Corney full of C.
It's good in some ways to have lots of batches ready for drinking as they can be compared against each other with notes on how they were made in hand.
What to do with the ones that are out of favour?
People who come around have a habit of sniffing out the cream of the crop also. I tried that one.
Anyone know any good food recipes that use beer?
Any imaginative ideas? :dunno:
Mark
Guinges

Post #2 made 13 years ago
by PistolPatch
GuingesRock wrote:People who come around have a habit of sniffing out the cream of the crop also. I tried that one.
:lol:

Just get some uni students around - they'll drink anything :party:.

It's a good question though. What about...

1. Hop teas or dry hopping to fiddle with the hop profile?
2. Never heard of this before but perhaps steeping some crystals or roasts and then boiling the resulting wort for 15 minutes. Maybe you wouldn't even have to ferment the resulting wort, just add it straight to the existing beer? (No idea on the latter bit but it will get fermented eventually - probably).

:)
Last edited by PistolPatch on 26 Dec 2012, 20:31, edited 2 times in total.
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Post #3 made 13 years ago
by 2trout
You could consider combining the remaining beers. It they all have different faults, maybe combining them would cancel out the problems of each individual beer?
"All I know is that the beer is good and people clamor for it. OK, it's free and that has something to do with it."
Bobbrews
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Post #4 made 13 years ago
by GuingesRock
2trout wrote:You could consider combining the remaining beers. It they all have different faults, maybe combining them would cancel out the problems of each individual beer?
That's not a bad idea! thanks, such blending could be done in the glass and could become part of the design process too.

PP, We live across the road from a university :) There is a student house an the other side of our fence. They have wild parties and sometimes throw their empty bottles onto our lawn. I could fill the empties and throw them back :)
Last edited by GuingesRock on 27 Dec 2012, 00:13, edited 2 times in total.
Guinges

Post #5 made 13 years ago
by GuingesRock
Our friends came around mid-afternoon, Boxing Day and we made my first all grain BIAB brew with my new Xmas 16 GAL pot. I’ve made endless "from scratch" extract batches and partial mash batches also, designed to feature hops, and now I guess grains are stepping in. What a laborious process! We finished at 10.00 pm.
So my reason for posting is this: I know everyone says don’t drink beer on brew day, and I know that’s true because I’ve f’d up before doing that, But! Tonight we were drinking 18 year old Glenfiddich and the whole thing worked out perfectly. We got the temperatures spot on and even the pre-boil and post-boil SG’s were exactly as predicted by Brewsmith (has any one ever done that before?) maybe my vision was a bit blurred. I’m thinking all the brew inhibiting aspects of beer were distilled out.
So to be precise its approximately 6 large measures of Glenfiddich, I think it might need to be the 18 year old stuff, and also if I remember right 3 large glasses of Jameson Irish whisky. The assistant needs to have almost exactly twice that amount.
…….Don’t know if that helps anyone :)
Guinges

Post #6 made 13 years ago
by GuingesRock
Thinking about 2trout and PP’s suggestions more.
Some of my misfit beers are basically highly alcoholic hop teas made with extract, so if I made a BIAB mash brew with no hops, fermented it, and mixed it half and half with the misfit beer in a Corny, I might end up with some good stuff. Maybe that’s the answer.
I wonder too if I might try that as a viable brewing technique. Making two batches of beer at the same time rather than on large batch. One of the batches would be hops and extract and the other would be a BIAB mash with no hops. The two batches would then be combined at kegging time (or in the fermenter) for a partial mash brew. I brew on the stove top, so I would be using two hobs (one for each pot) and the process would therefore be quicker in terms of time needed to bring to mash temp and to boil.
Guinges

Post #7 made 13 years ago
by thughes
I suffer from the same problem here too, Mark. I like to brew a lot and am always playing around with ingredients and sometimes the beer just isn't all that "great". I finally decided to limit myself to 1.5 gallon batches that I keg up in my tap-a-draft system.

If I do come across something that I really like I will double up and make a 3 gallon batch (I have a couple of 3 gallon corny kegs). Of course there are a couple of "house brews" that are always on tap keeping my 5 gallon kegs from getting dusty too but those are recipes that I know will keep for weeks and only get better as they sit in the keg.

---Todd
WWBBD?
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Post #8 made 13 years ago
by 2trout
GR,

I like the your idea of trying to improve your "bad" beers, but before you throw good money after bad, it might be a good idea to throw up the recipes you brewed, and describe your process and equipment. Its very likley that the folks here can help you brew beers you like.

Can you also give us an idea of just what seems "off" about the beers you brewed.
"All I know is that the beer is good and people clamor for it. OK, it's free and that has something to do with it."
Bobbrews
    • BME Brewer With Over 5 Brews From United States of America

Post #9 made 13 years ago
by GuingesRock
Thanks thughes. It’s nice to know I’m not alone and some good suggestions there.

2trout..That’s a very generous offer which I might take you up on. I suppose my problem is that I’m fickle, I don’t know what I like. My other problem is that I am probably a bit of a perfectionist…so I will never be completely happy.

There have been a couple that I have tried to like that ended up going down the sink. The rest I do like a lot, but then something better comes along. It seems to be grains now that are evolving the beer. I’m fairly fanatical about IPA’s and hops. I think I like lighter body beers and think I’m becoming one of those “hop heads” my wife also. I could completely change though with what I “like”. It’s sure nice being creative. Perhaps thats my other problem maybe. My thirst isn't keeping up with my need for a creative outlet, but that could change also :think:

Mark
Guinges

Post #10 made 13 years ago
by GuingesRock
2trout wrote:GR,

I like the your idea of trying to improve your "bad" beers, but before you throw good money after bad, it might be a good idea to throw up the recipes you brewed, and describe your process and equipment. Its very likley that the folks here can help you brew beers you like.

Can you also give us an idea of just what seems "off" about the beers you brewed.
Actually I would like to take you up on the offer if I may please…sooner rather than later. Sorry it is such a long post but there is a lot to explain.
I’m drinking “batch 4” tonight and it is what I love, and it must be the current house beer, as I keep making more of it and get anxious when it looks like it might be running low. It’s the batch that I keep trying to improve on. I am copying my “first post” on here as it outlines the process of batch 4. It’s just a hoppy extract beer.
[Merry Christmas everyone!
I wanted to sign up here to ask a BIAB mash idea question that I have been unable to find the answer too. I hope to post a thread with the question later.
I’m moving into BIAB and getting the equipment for Christmas.
I’m an English, but have been living and working in Canada for the last 30 years.
I have been making IPA’s with Extract and loads of hops. I started making beer in October and experiment with endless small batches. I research and work hard at keeping the process as quick, simple and easy peasy as possible. I single stage ferment in the brew kettle and leave the hops in during the fermentation (works great). I use whole leaf hops.
I keep going back to “batch 4” which I am hooked on (everyone else too), and making Corney kegs full.
Batch 4 uses 2kg Muntons Amber DME and and 2kg Briess Light DME, added to 3 gallons of water boiled to hot break only then 5oz leaf hops added and boiled for 15 mins. Another 3 gallons refrigerated ozonized spring water from the grocery store, then added to start the cooling and make up the batch. US-05 dry yeast sprinkled on top when it gets down to 27/28 degrees C. Left to ferment at 19 degrees for 9 days and then kegged from the kettle tap which has a bazooka screen on the inside..
Ever seeking perfection, and hoping to improve on batch 4, I am moving to all grain BIAB. I have a sack of Marris Otter UK 2 row waiting to go.
Looking forward to gaining from your BIAB experience and knowhow.
Thanks
Mark]
The first “improvement” was to add steeped grains…crystal malt and amber malt. I threw it out and vowed never to use amber malt again in anything.

Batch 8 was a partial mash version of batch 4 with Briess 2 row and crystal malt and it was good. A lot of people seemed to prefer it, but a lot of people preferred batch 4 also, so it was a toss-up. Batch 4 or batch 9 people didn’t seem to want to leave…”can we stay and have one more” a sloshed husband asked (his wife). Batch 4 has become a bit famous around here.

The Glenfiddich batch (Batch 12) is an all grain BIAB version of batch 4, but just with Marris Otter and no crystal, so it was a SMASH with MO and cascade. The recipe is copied below. I tasted the wort and it tasted extremely hoppy, so I'm a bit scared, but perversely excited at the same time. With anxious trepidation I think it might be good.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Mark

BeerSmith 2 Recipe Printout - http://www.beersmith.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Recipe: BATCH 12 Allgrain IPA
Style: American IPA
TYPE: All Grain
Taste: (30.0)

Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Boil Size: 8.19 gal
Post Boil Volume: 6.77 gal
Batch Size (fermenter): 5.50 gal
Bottling Volume: 5.05 gal
Estimated OG: 1.058 SG
Estimated Color: 4.8 SRM
Estimated IBU: 44.9 IBUs
Brewhouse Efficiency: 70.00 %
Est Mash Efficiency: 82.9 %
Boil Time: 60 Minutes

Ingredients:
------------
Amt Name Type # %/IBU
12 lbs Pale Malt, Maris Otter (3.0 SRM) Grain 1 100.0 %
6.00 oz Cascade [5.50 %] - Boil 15.0 min Hop 2 44.9 IBUs
2.0 pkg Safale American (DCL/Fermentis #US-05) Yeast 3 -


Mash Schedule: BIAB, Medium Body
Total Grain Weight: 12 lbs
----------------------------
Name Description Step Temperature Step Time
Saccharification Add 9.07 gal of water at 158.7 F 152.1 F 75 min
Mash Out Heat to 168.0 F over 7 min 168.0 F 10 min

Sparge: Remove grains, and prepare to boil wort
Notes:
------


Created with BeerSmith 2 - http://www.beersmith.com" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
Last edited by GuingesRock on 29 Dec 2012, 08:31, edited 2 times in total.
Guinges

Post #11 made 13 years ago
by thughes
I can assure you that one will be super tastey! I love the hop burst, makes for a really different experience but normally requires a reltively qucik chill. Are you a no-chill brewer? NC tends to dull the hoppy edge that comes from hop bursting.

The only thing I might offer is to hold back 1oz of cascade and dryhop with it for @ 5 days after you hit FG (probably 7-10 days in?) and perhaps mash a bit higher (@155 F) as I know from my experience that a SMaSH, especially with MO, will tend to be a bit thin in the mouthfeel.

I've got a pound or two of cascades and a sack of MO and nothing to do until I have to go back to work January 3.........hmmmmm :think:

---Todd
WWBBD?
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Post #12 made 13 years ago
by GuingesRock
Hi Todd
No, I chill the rest of the way with a wort chiller. Sometimes I just put it out on the doorstep (it’s cold here in Canada so that works well).
I love leaving all the leaf hops in for the ferment. I know about Alcohol extracting extra flavours from the hops and fermentation bubbling off some of that, but I find leaving all those leaf hops in for the ferment does the trick. They form a thick layer of hops and krausen on the surface which I think protects the beer from oxygen. I ferment in the brew kettle and allow myself to lift the lid once only the following morning to check that fermentation is going on. I forgot to mention that I whisk the wort quite a bit half an hour after pitching yeast to aerate. As I mentioned I work hard at trying to keep it simple. There is so much theory…you must do this, you must do that, but I’ll do it if someone says they didn’t do it and this terrible thing happened.
I may have exaggerated about the mash temp on the batch 12 mash being spot on. It turned out a bit higher than it was supposed to be (156), so I am reassured by your comment. The sg’s were spot on though.
We saw Les Miserable in the movie theatre this afternoon. It was so moving and incredible!
I’m back to work too on Jan 3rd.
Last edited by GuingesRock on 31 Dec 2012, 00:44, edited 1 time in total.
Guinges

Post #13 made 13 years ago
by GuingesRock
thughes wrote:I can assure you that one will be super tastey! I love the hop burst, makes for a really different experience but normally requires a reltively qucik chill. Are you a no-chill brewer? NC tends to dull the hoppy edge that comes from hop bursting.

The only thing I might offer is to hold back 1oz of cascade and dryhop with it for @ 5 days after you hit FG (probably 7-10 days in?) and perhaps mash a bit higher (@155 F) as I know from my experience that a SMaSH, especially with MO, will tend to be a bit thin in the mouthfeel.

I've got a pound or two of cascades and a sack of MO and nothing to do until I have to go back to work January 3.........hmmmmm :think:

---Todd
Hey Todd,

Looks like I was rambling on last night drinking the batch 4 and only half read your post. I was having fun, even if I bored everyone else :sleep:

I just read your post again and there’s quite a bit of useful stuff in there. Thanks.

Looking at my notes for batch 4 the mash temp started at 156 after stirring and dropped to 152 after 90 mins. Then I did a quick mash out at 168. I put a down parker over the BIAB pot during the mash and left it alone.

I’ve often wondered about how important it is to maintain a constant mash temp, so I didn’t warm it up again. If alpha-amylase works best at higher temps and beta amylase works best at lower temps, and if 155 is a compromise that is more in favour of alpha amylase to allow more dextrin and subsequent mouth feel. Then why not give them both what they prefer with a slightly higher temp to start with to keep the alpha happy and then allow the temp to drop (maybe even without insulating the pot) so the beta can work well. Maybe there’s a reason not to do that. Maybe that might be something to try out.

You also suggested holding back 1oz of hops to dry hop. I’ve never done dry hopping although I’ve read many say that it is a must for IPA. I was hoping that hop bursting would achieve the same affect. I love the flavour from hop bursting but have never dry hopped as I was trying to develop the simplest to make, and most delicious IPA at the same time (bit cocky I know). What would I achieve with the dry hopping? Would it be enough of an advantage to make it worthwhile? If I did that I’d probably have to switch to pellet hops for the dry hop so they would sink through my krausen and hop leaf mass that floats on the surface of the ferment.

I didn’t realise that quick chilling was important with hop bursting. That’s useful. Come to think of it I do chill all the large batches rapidly with the chiller, but my smaller 2 gallon test batches get put out on the doorstep in the cold. Batch 4 has chilled ozonated spring water added at the end of the boil which brings it down instantly to 50 degrees C, with a chiller for the rest of the way. I’ll pay attention to that from now on with my test batches. It makes absolute sense.

I’m now wondering if the hop bursting is what made batch 4 so good, even though it’s a simple extract beer.

Any way thanks for the excellent advice.
Mark
Last edited by GuingesRock on 30 Dec 2012, 09:39, edited 2 times in total.
Guinges

Post #14 made 13 years ago
by thughes
If you really want to try dry-hopping the easy way, do it after you keg the beer. Simply pour an ounce or two of pellet hops into a knee-high nylon stocking along with a handful of marbles or something to weigh it down (a stainless steel spoon works just fine), tie the top shut, and then use a piece of dental floss to hang it just slightly off the bottom of the keg. (The floss is thin enough that it won't affect the sealing ability of the lid's o-ring.)

Try it and see how you like it! This is also a great way to add a bit of fresh zing to that last gallon or two of something you've become bored with and would otherwise dump out.
WWBBD?
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Post #15 made 13 years ago
by GuingesRock
Dry hopping in the keg. That sounds simple. Maybe I could fill one or two oversized stainless steel tea balls (I’ve seen them in the local cooking shop) with my leaf hops and toss them in the keg. They would be easy to clean and sanitize. Could be tied with dental floss to enable removal…or I wonder if I can leave the hops in the keg for as long as the beer is in there.
Guinges
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