I've now 'gone beyond' BIAB into SIAB ...
Strain In A Bag.
Normal procedure for me now is to mash in a 24l picnic cooler with no bag (normally about 12l water against 4-6kgs grain). Once my 60 -90 mins are up, I have a 15l bucket which I've drilled a hole in the side at the bottom, with a rubber grommet and a length of siphoning tube firmly in place. I have a cake rack in the bottom of the bucket and then place bag inside and secure against the rim as normal. Then, simply pour my wort - grains and all - into the bag. The wort obviously flows out into my stockpot via the tubing, and the cake rack acts as a false bottom to help this. Once I've drained a decent amount, I'm then free to sparge into the bag and let it drain as before.
And to keep the Missus on my side, I do all this in the bath .......
Post #2 made 11 years ago
Ha, my brain was spinning trying to picture the set up Gyro 
.
Is your kettle on the small side or can you get all your water and grain into it?
PP
.Is your kettle on the small side or can you get all your water and grain into it?
PP
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Post #3 made 11 years ago
My kettle is a stockpot, into which I can safely boil a max of 13 or so litres. For the sake if a tenner, it's easier to mash in a coolbox because I can bugger off and leave it without worrying too much about temp drops.
Post #4 made 11 years ago
Gyro
Another nice bit is that you don't have to worry too much about mash volumes or dilution calculations, your only constraint being the volume into the kettle/start of boil volume. Do you "juggle" the figures in the calculator in order to get to you 13L limit?
There's been a recent post on here where somebody used a cooler to do a double brew. The second brew was mashed in the cooler/esky while the first brew was in the kettle.
lambert
Another nice bit is that you don't have to worry too much about mash volumes or dilution calculations, your only constraint being the volume into the kettle/start of boil volume. Do you "juggle" the figures in the calculator in order to get to you 13L limit?
There's been a recent post on here where somebody used a cooler to do a double brew. The second brew was mashed in the cooler/esky while the first brew was in the kettle.
lambert
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Post #5 made 11 years ago
I don't really use a calculator. I've dabbled with Beer Engine a bit, but I'm more of a 'seat of pants' brewer. For instance, I'll have an idea of how something will turn out, but the overall taste and ABV is always an unknown factor until the beer is ready.
I've thought about mashing and boiling twice to get bigger volume. I so far haven't sorted out a wort chiller, so would the addition of hot wort into slightly less hot wort in the FV be any sort of problem .... ?
I've thought about mashing and boiling twice to get bigger volume. I so far haven't sorted out a wort chiller, so would the addition of hot wort into slightly less hot wort in the FV be any sort of problem .... ?
Post #6 made 11 years ago
I assume that you no-chill in the FV? I would not personally mix a semi cooled wort and hot wort - I can just imagine that it would create this ideal breeding ground for bad bugs. But that is just a personal opinion and not based on any proof or experience!Gyro wrote:I so far haven't sorted out a wort chiller, so would the addition of hot wort into slightly less hot wort in the FV be any sort of problem .... ?
When I brewed small batches I no-chilled into these containers. Just syphon the near boiling wort into the container, close the cap and turn it around so that the hot wort sanitise the container. I've had no problem decanting two of those containers into a FV once they were cooled down.
Hope it helps!
lambert
Last edited by lambert on 12 Jul 2012, 02:52, edited 4 times in total.
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Post #7 made 11 years ago
I normally close the FV and wait for it to cool down. Sometimes in a bath of cold water, or sometimes I just wait the few hours or overnight.
Told you I'm not very scientific......
Told you I'm not very scientific......
