I am looking to do this brew on the weekend but dont know how to scale the recipe down to suite my pot its a converted keg can ayone help or do they have a recipe. how do all you guys do it im not that advanced yet.
Ingredient List for 52L Batch
Style American Pale Ale
Method All Grain
Original Gravity 1.046
Final Gravity 1.011
Alcohol Content 4.55%
Efficiency 75%
Total IBU (Bitterness) 25.8
EBC (colour) 7
7 kg JWM Export Pilsner
2 kg Weyermann Vienna
0.6 kg Weyermann Carapils(Carafoam)
0.6 kg JWM Wheat Malt
20 g Cascade (Pellets, 5.9 AA%, 45 mins)
20 g Saaz B (NZ) (Pellets, 6.8 AA%, 45 mins)
30 g Cascade (Pellets, 5.9 AA%, 20 mins)
30 g Saaz B (NZ) (Pellets, 6.8 AA%, 20 mins)
40 g Saaz B (NZ) (Pellets, 6.8 AA%, 0 mins)
40 g Cascade (Pellets, 5.9 AA%, 0 mins)
200 ml White Labs WLP001 - California Ale
1 g Irish Moss
this beer is so close to the origional its not funny. Light, easy to drink maltyness ballances the hops perfectly. neither is overpowering. <br />Hop aroma and hop flavor are spot on too with about equal flavor in mouth and aroma in the nose when sipping, drinking or sculling...... which ever you prefer.<br />Mash it at 65 to 66 deg.<br />firmented at 19 deg with us-56<br
It dosnt give me the mash time and boil time
cheers Anthony
Post #2 made 13 years ago
G'day Anthony, I'm happy to help by scaling the recipe, but you don't say what size batch you want to make.
Some people work on 60 minute mash and 60 minute boil. Both are personal preference. Personally I do 90 minute boil and 90 minute mash because it works for me.
Some people work on 60 minute mash and 60 minute boil. Both are personal preference. Personally I do 90 minute boil and 90 minute mash because it works for me.
"It's beer Jim, but not as we know it."
Post #3 made 13 years ago
Thanks Hashie
That would be geatly appreceated i also have been doing 90 min mash and 90 min boils. i have just been missing the mark so i am thinking that next brew i will use a little less water to try and achive the correct end of boil volume and correct OG.
My aim is to end up with 22L in my fermenter. My pot size is a converted 50L keg.
Thanks again Anthony
That would be geatly appreceated i also have been doing 90 min mash and 90 min boils. i have just been missing the mark so i am thinking that next brew i will use a little less water to try and achive the correct end of boil volume and correct OG.
My aim is to end up with 22L in my fermenter. My pot size is a converted 50L keg.
Thanks again Anthony
Post #4 made 13 years ago
Ok, so here is the scaled recipe. I have made it for a 25 litre batch to allow for trub;
Type: All Grain
Date: 4/5/2011
Batch Size: 25.00 L
Boil Size: 30.11 L Asst Brewer:
Boil Time: 90 min Equipment: Keggle
Taste Rating(out of 50): 35.0 Brewhouse Efficiency: 80.00
Taste Notes:
Ingredients
Amount Item Type % or IBU
3.37 kg Pilsner, Malt Craft Export (Joe White) (1.6 SRM) Grain 68.63 %
0.96 kg Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM) Grain 19.61 %
0.29 kg Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 5.88 %
0.29 kg Wheat Malt, Malt Craft (Joe White) (1.8 SRM) Grain 5.88 %
9.62 gm Cascade [5.50 %] (45 min) Hops 4.9 IBU
9.62 gm Saaz [6.80 %] (45 min) Hops 6.0 IBU
14.42 gm Cascade [5.50 %] (20 min) Hops 4.8 IBU
14.42 gm Saaz [4.00 %] (20 min) Hops 3.5 IBU
19.23 gm Cascade [5.50 %] (0 min) Hops -
19.23 gm Saaz [4.00 %] (0 min) Hops -
Type: All Grain
Date: 4/5/2011
Batch Size: 25.00 L
Boil Size: 30.11 L Asst Brewer:
Boil Time: 90 min Equipment: Keggle
Taste Rating(out of 50): 35.0 Brewhouse Efficiency: 80.00
Taste Notes:
Ingredients
Amount Item Type % or IBU
3.37 kg Pilsner, Malt Craft Export (Joe White) (1.6 SRM) Grain 68.63 %
0.96 kg Vienna Malt (3.5 SRM) Grain 19.61 %
0.29 kg Cara-Pils/Dextrine (2.0 SRM) Grain 5.88 %
0.29 kg Wheat Malt, Malt Craft (Joe White) (1.8 SRM) Grain 5.88 %
9.62 gm Cascade [5.50 %] (45 min) Hops 4.9 IBU
9.62 gm Saaz [6.80 %] (45 min) Hops 6.0 IBU
14.42 gm Cascade [5.50 %] (20 min) Hops 4.8 IBU
14.42 gm Saaz [4.00 %] (20 min) Hops 3.5 IBU
19.23 gm Cascade [5.50 %] (0 min) Hops -
19.23 gm Saaz [4.00 %] (0 min) Hops -
"It's beer Jim, but not as we know it."
Post #5 made 13 years ago
+1 for the 90 min boil at least. With all that Pilsner malt in there you want to drive off as much SMM as possible. Make sure you get a decent vigorous boil.
I've done the LCBA clone a couple of times and it's a cracker. I was in Fremantle recently and the LCBA was a stand out at the brewery. Beautiful aroma.
I've done the LCBA clone a couple of times and it's a cracker. I was in Fremantle recently and the LCBA was a stand out at the brewery. Beautiful aroma.
Post #6 made 13 years ago
Slightly OT, I have two questions,argon5000 wrote:you want to drive off as much SMM as possible. Make sure you get a decent vigorous boil.
What is SMM?
Why do I need/want to rid my wort of it?
HC
Last edited by housecat on 06 Apr 2011, 10:42, edited 5 times in total.
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Post #7 made 13 years ago
SMM (S-Methylmethionine) is an amino acid, which is formed during the germination and kilning process of malting barley, which is the precursor to DMS. It's present in high volumes in lighter kilned malts such as Pilsner malt.
DMS (Dimethyl sulfide)is a compound that has a taste and aroma some describe as cooked corn or vegetable in nature.
So obviously you don't want a great deal of this stuff in your finished beer.
During the mashing process, SMM is brought into solution into your wort. When you start to boil, the SMM is converted into DMS and then removed by evaporation. By boiling for a long time, 90 mins or greater (100mins recommended), you are driving off enough DMS that it no longer becomes perceptible in the finished beer.
I've had DMS problems in the past when using Pilsner malt. I now boil for 90 mins or more to ensure i've removed the DMS.
DMS (Dimethyl sulfide)is a compound that has a taste and aroma some describe as cooked corn or vegetable in nature.
So obviously you don't want a great deal of this stuff in your finished beer.
During the mashing process, SMM is brought into solution into your wort. When you start to boil, the SMM is converted into DMS and then removed by evaporation. By boiling for a long time, 90 mins or greater (100mins recommended), you are driving off enough DMS that it no longer becomes perceptible in the finished beer.
I've had DMS problems in the past when using Pilsner malt. I now boil for 90 mins or more to ensure i've removed the DMS.
Post #8 made 13 years ago
Thanks Argon.
I take it that it is something that will stick out in your beer if you have problems with it.
Back on topic,
I look forward to making this in a few brews
HC
I take it that it is something that will stick out in your beer if you have problems with it.
Back on topic,
I look forward to making this in a few brews
HC
Part of the NoAd brewers
My mum says I'm cool.
My mum says I'm cool.
Post #9 made 13 years ago
Thank Hashie for taking the time to help me out that is greatly appreciated. I cant wait to do this brew on the weekend will let you know how i went.
cheers
cheers
Post #10 made 9 years ago
Love the look of this brew good people, thanks for sharing.
I have attached my attempt of filling out BIABacus as per what I could gather from the thread.
'hashie' noted a 'boil size' of 30.11 L which is about 1L above the estimated VAW from BIABacus, however I'm not sure if I can translate directly.
Anyway I've left it out and happy to give it a go as is, but if there is an experienced BIAB'r out there that could check the file it would be much appreciated.
Thanks
blu_afro
I have attached my attempt of filling out BIABacus as per what I could gather from the thread.
'hashie' noted a 'boil size' of 30.11 L which is about 1L above the estimated VAW from BIABacus, however I'm not sure if I can translate directly.
Anyway I've left it out and happy to give it a go as is, but if there is an experienced BIAB'r out there that could check the file it would be much appreciated.
Thanks
blu_afro
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Post #11 made 9 years ago
Rad 
One small change you need to add.
You have copied the hop bill into section D but you have omitted to give either, the VAW figure for the original recipe (and good luck finding that) or the IBU's that you want to scale the recipe to. The original states 25.8 IBU's but doesn't state what method was used to calculate that number. There are several different methods of calculation giving different numbers from the same hop bill.
Put the 25.8 from your original recipe into section D and see how it tastes. You can always play around with that number to suit your taste on subsequent brews.
Majorphill
One small change you need to add.
You have copied the hop bill into section D but you have omitted to give either, the VAW figure for the original recipe (and good luck finding that) or the IBU's that you want to scale the recipe to. The original states 25.8 IBU's but doesn't state what method was used to calculate that number. There are several different methods of calculation giving different numbers from the same hop bill.
Put the 25.8 from your original recipe into section D and see how it tastes. You can always play around with that number to suit your taste on subsequent brews.
Majorphill
Post #12 made 9 years ago
Too right!majorphill wrote:...and good luck finding that...
I know hashie used BeerSmith at the time and the date (and the numbers) on this are telling me it is BeerSmith 1 (where the IBU's read even higher than BS2!). My best guess would be to use 25 L as your VAW. As the major said above though, often you have no choice but to type in the IBU's from the recipe even though they can mean pretty much anything - see this post and pic.
Last edited by PistolPatch on 24 Aug 2014, 18:10, edited 5 times in total.
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Post #13 made 9 years ago
Thanks alot for responses major 
and PP
I have adjusted the attached BIABacus Desired VIF to give the 25L VAW, and notes on the side now reflect adjusted hops additions.
Hope the BIABacus is coming along PP, it's a great tool.
and PP I have adjusted the attached BIABacus Desired VIF to give the 25L VAW, and notes on the side now reflect adjusted hops additions.
Hope the BIABacus is coming along PP, it's a great tool.
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Post #14 made 9 years ago
Thanks for the help Major and Pistol, this is the first of 3 LCBA batches, all a bit different through process or substitution of hops (ran out of saaz).
This one has a slight chemical taste ... I gave it 90 min boil but may not have been vigorous enough. Not good enough to share but not bad enough to discard though
I also racked into a secondary fermenter and it sat for 2 weeks prior to bottling.
Not chasing any feedback, just thought I'd give an update of the journey to a passable Bright Ale
This one has a slight chemical taste ... I gave it 90 min boil but may not have been vigorous enough. Not good enough to share but not bad enough to discard though
I also racked into a secondary fermenter and it sat for 2 weeks prior to bottling.Not chasing any feedback, just thought I'd give an update of the journey to a passable Bright Ale
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Post #16 made 9 years ago
Looks great . Don't worry too much about the slight chemical taste. After six it will be the best beer ever made.
I think I'm thirsty.
Majorphill
I think I'm thirsty.
Majorphill
Post #17 made 9 years ago
got mine no-chilling at the moment... I noticed theres no Dry Hopping in recipe, just the flame out...
Would you recommend any dry hopping?
Would you recommend any dry hopping?
Post #18 made 9 years ago
g'day leighaus, i haven't dry hopped but i did bump up the flavour and aroma hop additions for a good result (only took 5 brews to get there!).
i think it's pretty important to get the vigorous boil with the pilsner grains as well.
good luck with the brewing mate
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i think it's pretty important to get the vigorous boil with the pilsner grains as well.
good luck with the brewing mate
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Post #19 made 9 years ago
i didnt end up dry hopping.. the beer was quite well enjoyed by all and very sessionable.. I found it slightly 'bland' due to being used to stronger IPAs when i brew, but still very easy to down.
I also found the wheat profile to be a little overbearing, but that's mainly because i dont really like weissbiers.
I also found the wheat profile to be a little overbearing, but that's mainly because i dont really like weissbiers.
Post #20 made 9 years ago
Hey everyone, thanks a lot for the recipe it's awesome. I'm hoping for a bit of advice, I've just done this as my first ever all grain brew last weekend and it looks and smells awesome. But a few (very basic..!) questions for you. How long would you leave it in the fermenter for? It's bubbling away nicely (within 12 hours), how long would you leave it in the fermenter before bottling?
Secondly, with it being all grain and dry hopped there is a lot (I mean a lot) of sediment and residue, what's the best way to ensure there isn't too much sediment in the bottles? I haven't got a secondary fermenter, just a large pot, is it worth exposing it to lots of oxygen filtering it into the pot and then back into the fermentor to bottle from? Or what are the options with fining agents? How do you guys do it?
Any help would be great and really appreciated. Thanks everyone!
Secondly, with it being all grain and dry hopped there is a lot (I mean a lot) of sediment and residue, what's the best way to ensure there isn't too much sediment in the bottles? I haven't got a secondary fermenter, just a large pot, is it worth exposing it to lots of oxygen filtering it into the pot and then back into the fermentor to bottle from? Or what are the options with fining agents? How do you guys do it?
Any help would be great and really appreciated. Thanks everyone!
Post #21 made 9 years ago
Oliver, you can let the beer sit in the fermenter until the beer is Clear, and still have enough yeast to carbonate in 2-4 weeks.
Or check the S.G. periodically, and when you S.G. has bottomed(1.008SG to 1.015SG) in 5-12days,
Move the fermenter to a cold place(1C/34F) for 3-5 days to Crash Cool the yeast. The beer should be nearly Clear.
There will be enough remaining yeast to carbonate, so you can transfer the Beer to the Bottling Buck, add the Carbonation Sugars, and let the beer WARM to 23C/72F, and Bottle
If you force carbonate. Transfer Directly to the Keg, carbonate, and It is nearly ready to drink.
Or check the S.G. periodically, and when you S.G. has bottomed(1.008SG to 1.015SG) in 5-12days,
Move the fermenter to a cold place(1C/34F) for 3-5 days to Crash Cool the yeast. The beer should be nearly Clear.
There will be enough remaining yeast to carbonate, so you can transfer the Beer to the Bottling Buck, add the Carbonation Sugars, and let the beer WARM to 23C/72F, and Bottle
If you force carbonate. Transfer Directly to the Keg, carbonate, and It is nearly ready to drink.
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
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Post #22 made 9 years ago
Thanks a lot for that Joshua, really appreciated. Being in Melbourne, I'm not sure how I'll get it down to 1 degree for that amount of time, any suggestions? I was thinking about putting the fermenter in a bath full of ice or something? If not I'll just leave it in the fermenter for an extra week or so. Do you use fining agents at all? If so any tips or advice on what or how to use them?
Post #23 made 9 years ago
Oliver, If you have a fermenter that fits in an Eskey or a Modified Eskey, the Ice bath, or A few 1 Liter bottles of frozen water, can do the Crash chill method to help drop/stop the yeast.
You can leave the fermenter alone for, Sometimes, 6 weeks to clear and still have enough yeast to Naturally Carbonate/Bottle.
I have found the Crash Cool method is better(cheaper) then Most Fining Agents...Of course, it fully depends on the yeast you use, and the Equipment you have.
Example, when I switched from 5 gallon/23L to 1.2 Gallon/4L My 2 gallon/8L fermenter fits nicely in my Refrigerator, where the 6 gallon/26L Bucket, needed a Modified Cooler/Ice Bath.
You can leave the fermenter alone for, Sometimes, 6 weeks to clear and still have enough yeast to Naturally Carbonate/Bottle.
I have found the Crash Cool method is better(cheaper) then Most Fining Agents...Of course, it fully depends on the yeast you use, and the Equipment you have.
Example, when I switched from 5 gallon/23L to 1.2 Gallon/4L My 2 gallon/8L fermenter fits nicely in my Refrigerator, where the 6 gallon/26L Bucket, needed a Modified Cooler/Ice Bath.
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
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Post #24 made 9 years ago
Hey guys, I brewed this about 9 days ago, just a bit worried that on hindsight my OG was too low. I boiled 31L of wort for 60 minutes pretty vigorously which left me with 23 litres in the fermenter, OG of 1.035. Great yeast activity for the first week and it's settled right down now, gravity seems to be at 1.010. Which having done the numbers leaves me a pretty weak beer. What are your thoughts? Being my first all grain I could do with some help!
Cheers.
Cheers.
Post #25 made 9 years ago
Oliver, 9 days is not enough time to finish a batch.
Give the fermenter a swirl, unless it is TOO Huge, and the excess CO2 will fall out(up), and this will shake up the yeast.
In another 7-10 days, the yeast should Start to settle. Check the Final Gravity and think about Bottling/Kegging.
If your in a hurry, and don't mind a lot of yeast sluury in the Bottle/Keg
Give the fermenter a swirl, unless it is TOO Huge, and the excess CO2 will fall out(up), and this will shake up the yeast.
In another 7-10 days, the yeast should Start to settle. Check the Final Gravity and think about Bottling/Kegging.
If your in a hurry, and don't mind a lot of yeast sluury in the Bottle/Keg
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
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