I'm just getting back into brewing after a long hiatus. My background is in partial mash brewing but I'm planning to dive into full mash using the BIAB method for simplicity. Here's a recipe from a book that I'm going to try to adapt to a 1 Gallon BIAB batch. I'm choosing it for it's simplicity- if you have other simple recipe ideas let me know
Mash:
2.9 Gal of liquor
60min. at 149F
10lb of Belgian Pilsner Malt
Boil:
7 Gal of liquor for 70 minutes
1oz of Saaz 4.2% at the start
1 tsp Protofloc last 15min
1/3oz Hallertauer Mittelfruh for last 10 min
OG 1046
Fermentation:
Wyeast 3787 Trappist high gravity for one week at 72F
Condition for 3 weeks at 54F
FG 1010
Questions:
1. Any help with adaptations would be appreciated
2. Does the timeline sound ok on this? (1 week fermentation, 3 weeks conditioning?)
Post #2 made 10 years ago
Welcome to the forum Johnny 
,
It's a funny hobby this brewing business. For one thing, there are actually a lot of brewing books out there that publish recipes that simply don't have enough information in them to copy. In fact, most books, magazine articles, software recipe reports etc have this problem. Here is just [ur=http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=2647l]one example[/url].
In your recipe, we could get the grain bill right but without further information, our hop bill could be substantially out. I think the first thing to do in this case would be to let us know the name of the book and one of us might have done some research into the book and be able to give you a much clearer idea on how much water to use and ingredient quantities. In the meantime, besides the above link, also read this one and the first few pages of this one.
The next issue is the batch size of one gallon. It's another problem with brewing that some common words such as batch mean different things to different brewers. Batch can mean Volume at Flame-Out (VFO), Volume of Ambient Wort (VAW), Volume into Fermentor (VIF) or Volume into Packaging (VIP) - see Clear Brewing Terminology. Let's assume that you want 1 gallon into bottles though...
This is a very small batch size and it can be hard to measure and/or buy ingredients in such small proportions, especially yeast and hops. Just be aware of that.
With all that being said, one common and very good way of learning is to just dive in and brew. An adventurous mind-set is as good a way of learning as a measured mind-set.
,
PP
P.S. Timeline, assuming bottling, sounds okay in this scenario. In other scenarios, it would be dangerous. Very important to make sure that the yeast has eaten everything before priming so as you don't make bottle bombs.
,It's a funny hobby this brewing business. For one thing, there are actually a lot of brewing books out there that publish recipes that simply don't have enough information in them to copy. In fact, most books, magazine articles, software recipe reports etc have this problem. Here is just [ur=http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=2647l]one example[/url].
In your recipe, we could get the grain bill right but without further information, our hop bill could be substantially out. I think the first thing to do in this case would be to let us know the name of the book and one of us might have done some research into the book and be able to give you a much clearer idea on how much water to use and ingredient quantities. In the meantime, besides the above link, also read this one and the first few pages of this one.
The next issue is the batch size of one gallon. It's another problem with brewing that some common words such as batch mean different things to different brewers. Batch can mean Volume at Flame-Out (VFO), Volume of Ambient Wort (VAW), Volume into Fermentor (VIF) or Volume into Packaging (VIP) - see Clear Brewing Terminology. Let's assume that you want 1 gallon into bottles though...
This is a very small batch size and it can be hard to measure and/or buy ingredients in such small proportions, especially yeast and hops. Just be aware of that.
With all that being said, one common and very good way of learning is to just dive in and brew. An adventurous mind-set is as good a way of learning as a measured mind-set.
,PP
P.S. Timeline, assuming bottling, sounds okay in this scenario. In other scenarios, it would be dangerous. Very important to make sure that the yeast has eaten everything before priming so as you don't make bottle bombs.
Last edited by PistolPatch on 28 Dec 2014, 20:14, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #3 made 10 years ago
Thank you PistolPatch for the warm welcome and your help so far.
The name of the book is "Home Brew Beer" by DK Publishing. The recipe is from page 128.
In the "How to Use Recipes" Section:
-it defines that the recipe is intended to make 6 gallons of finished beer
-The difference between the 2.9 Gal mash and 7 Gal Boil is supposed to be made up by sparging
-The 7 Gal is at the start of the boil
I'm looking for a 1 gallon finished into packaging volume. It's just me and the Mrs. so we'd have trouble getting through a 5 gallon batch. It'll also give me the chance to brew as often as possible, in hopes of developing skill/knowledge more quickly.
In order to aid myself in my "tiny" brewing I've gotten a refractometer since using a hydrometer would be taking away a significant portion of my batch and a kitchen scale to finely weigh ingredients. I've also purchased a 2 gallon fermenter for less oxidation.
The name of the book is "Home Brew Beer" by DK Publishing. The recipe is from page 128.
In the "How to Use Recipes" Section:
-it defines that the recipe is intended to make 6 gallons of finished beer
-The difference between the 2.9 Gal mash and 7 Gal Boil is supposed to be made up by sparging
-The 7 Gal is at the start of the boil
I'm looking for a 1 gallon finished into packaging volume. It's just me and the Mrs. so we'd have trouble getting through a 5 gallon batch. It'll also give me the chance to brew as often as possible, in hopes of developing skill/knowledge more quickly.
In order to aid myself in my "tiny" brewing I've gotten a refractometer since using a hydrometer would be taking away a significant portion of my batch and a kitchen scale to finely weigh ingredients. I've also purchased a 2 gallon fermenter for less oxidation.
Post #4 made 10 years ago
To expand a little on PP's advice about small measurements. I would substitute the Wyeast smack pack for dry yeast; possibly Safbrew Abbaye Ale Yeast. The smack pack is designed for 5 gal batches and would be difficult to measure out just enough for 1 gal. Dry yeast is also cheaper to buy.
For my fermentations I usually go 2 weeks before packaging. From my experience I know fermentation is completed after 2 weeks and it is safe to bottle. I also follow that schedule as a matter of convince. I am usually able to set aside Saturdays for brewing. I spend one Saturday brewing and the second Saturday after that is for packaging and is the stars all align I am brewing again 2 weeks later and tasting the previous batch of beer.
Prost!
For my fermentations I usually go 2 weeks before packaging. From my experience I know fermentation is completed after 2 weeks and it is safe to bottle. I also follow that schedule as a matter of convince. I am usually able to set aside Saturdays for brewing. I spend one Saturday brewing and the second Saturday after that is for packaging and is the stars all align I am brewing again 2 weeks later and tasting the previous batch of beer.
Prost!
Some people are like slinkies. Not good for much, but bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
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Post #5 made 10 years ago
I was thinking the same thing with dry yeast, but wasnt sure what to use, thanks for the suggestion. I'm guessing a quarter of the packet would be good? Is it worth starting the yeast or just pitch it dry?
Post #6 made 10 years ago
Dry yeast does not need a starter. Just sprinkle, stir and go.
Some people are like slinkies. Not good for much, but bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
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Post #7 made 10 years ago
Good stuff Lumpy 
,
Johnny, I just had a look at an image from the book on Amazon and it gives you a Colourness Rating and a Bitterness Rating. Can you post these up for your recipe? This may help us to get your hop bill more accurate as we are still lacking the critical volume figure - Volume of Ambient Wort. The colour and bitterness will help us make an educated guess at what the VAW is and then we can put the recipe into BIABcus format for you.
Also note that when we do this, you won't be needing to sparge or anything. You'll add all your water into the mash and everything works nicely and simply from thereon.
PP
,Johnny, I just had a look at an image from the book on Amazon and it gives you a Colourness Rating and a Bitterness Rating. Can you post these up for your recipe? This may help us to get your hop bill more accurate as we are still lacking the critical volume figure - Volume of Ambient Wort. The colour and bitterness will help us make an educated guess at what the VAW is and then we can put the recipe into BIABcus format for you.
Also note that when we do this, you won't be needing to sparge or anything. You'll add all your water into the mash and everything works nicely and simply from thereon.
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 29 Dec 2014, 17:45, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #8 made 10 years ago
Oh ok, sure!
The bitterness rating is 16.4 IBU, the color rating is 5.7 EBC and the estimated ABV is 4.7%. I don't know if it's helpful but there's also a Total Liquor at the top of 8.2 Gallons and, like I mentioned before, the OG is 1046 and FG 1010.
I appreciate the help, thank you.
The bitterness rating is 16.4 IBU, the color rating is 5.7 EBC and the estimated ABV is 4.7%. I don't know if it's helpful but there's also a Total Liquor at the top of 8.2 Gallons and, like I mentioned before, the OG is 1046 and FG 1010.
I appreciate the help, thank you.
Post #9 made 10 years ago
The viability of dry yeast is significantly improved if the yeast is rehydrated before pitching. Boil and cool a small amount of water, maybe 50-100ml for this small batch, and sprinkle the yeast on. There are many references online.Lumpy5oh wrote:Dry yeast does not need a starter. Just sprinkle, stir and go.
Last edited by cwier60 on 29 Dec 2014, 22:54, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #10 made 10 years ago
Good Day, if you can slowly, over 10 minutes, double the volume of the Rehydrated Yeast with the Wort, that will prevent "Sugar Shock" also known as "Osmotic Shock".
JMHO, YMMV.
JMHO, YMMV.
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Post #11 made 10 years ago
Regarding rehydration, this thread will help you decide what to do .
Johnny
I have replicated your recipe as best as I can and put it into the BIABacus. The one unknown we have is your evaporation rate. THis varies from brew to brew depending on the weather etc but the diameter of your pot/kettle plays a major role. In the BIABAcus, in Section B, I have typed in 25 and 25 for your kettle height and diameter. Measure your kettle and change these two numbers before proceeding.
What you need to do...
1. Change kettle diameter and height to suit your kettle - see Section B.
2. Check the Alpha Acid percentage (AA%) of the hops you will be buying and type that AA% under 'Substitutions' on the right hand side of Section D.
3. Buy 854 grams (1.88 pounds) of crushed Belgian Pilsner Malt.
4. Buy the smallest quantity of hops you can. (You'll be using the weights on the far right of Section D).
5. Buy your yeast.
6. Add 8.67 litres (2.29 gal) to your kettle - see top line of Section K.
7. Heat that water to 65.4C (150 F) - see second line of Section E.
8. Mash for 90 minutes (not 60) and try and keep the temp at 65 C (149F).
9. Pull bag at end of 90 mins and give it a squeeze.
10. Boil for 90 mins (not 70) adding your hops at the appropriate times.
11. Crash chill your wort in your kitchen sink until your wort reaches 18C.
12. Pour gently into fermentor.
13. Pitch your yeast and keep it at 18-20C while fermenting for say 10 days.
14. Carefully transfer to a priming 'bucket'.
15. Add priming sugar and bottle.
Don't worry about protofloc.
PP
.Johnny
I have replicated your recipe as best as I can and put it into the BIABacus. The one unknown we have is your evaporation rate. THis varies from brew to brew depending on the weather etc but the diameter of your pot/kettle plays a major role. In the BIABAcus, in Section B, I have typed in 25 and 25 for your kettle height and diameter. Measure your kettle and change these two numbers before proceeding.
What you need to do...
1. Change kettle diameter and height to suit your kettle - see Section B.
2. Check the Alpha Acid percentage (AA%) of the hops you will be buying and type that AA% under 'Substitutions' on the right hand side of Section D.
3. Buy 854 grams (1.88 pounds) of crushed Belgian Pilsner Malt.
4. Buy the smallest quantity of hops you can. (You'll be using the weights on the far right of Section D).
5. Buy your yeast.
6. Add 8.67 litres (2.29 gal) to your kettle - see top line of Section K.
7. Heat that water to 65.4C (150 F) - see second line of Section E.
8. Mash for 90 minutes (not 60) and try and keep the temp at 65 C (149F).
9. Pull bag at end of 90 mins and give it a squeeze.
10. Boil for 90 mins (not 70) adding your hops at the appropriate times.
11. Crash chill your wort in your kitchen sink until your wort reaches 18C.
12. Pour gently into fermentor.
13. Pitch your yeast and keep it at 18-20C while fermenting for say 10 days.
14. Carefully transfer to a priming 'bucket'.
15. Add priming sugar and bottle.
Don't worry about protofloc.
PP
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Last edited by PistolPatch on 30 Dec 2014, 18:39, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #13 made 10 years ago
Ok, I brewed this up today. Here's how it went.
At the local homebrew supply I picked up 1) Belgian Pilsner Malt, 5 lbs along with 2) a dry yeast for this recipe- safbrew T58 and 3) Saaz hops (I skipped the hallertau from the original recipe, going all Saaz was a tip in the book that I got the recipe from) and 4) extra light DME- just in case I didn't hit my OG.
I crushed the delicious smelling grain myself, using the shiny grain mill I had sitting around. I fiddled with the admittedly coarse adjustments so that it wouldn't let any sneaky grains by whole but also without making much dust. It looked finer than what would come from the store, so I counted it as "double" crushed, which is what's mostly recommended for biab, and continued on.
I brought the 2.99 gal of our hard water, adjusted from the original qty. for my pot size, to about 153F. I expected only adding a measly 1.82lb of grain would drop it to right around 149F- my kill zone. I stirred in the grain and checked the temp- 149F, awesome! I put my pot in the oven, set to the lowest temperature (about 140F). Checking the temperature about halfway in I found the mash to be at 145F..."uhh oh" I thought to myself. I tried raising the temperature of the oven over the second half of the mash but the temperature remained the same, and so I started to get a little nervous.
At the end of the mash I took out the grains, gave them a good squeeze, and, unable to wait any longer, I checked my gravity.. 5 Brix. Now keep in mind at the end of the boil I should be at 11.4 according to this recipe. Having no clue, I leave my faith in the boil. Well, towards the end of the boil I check the gravity again, 6 Brix. "What the...?" I feverishly ripped open the DME and added it in 1/2cup quantities while checking the gravity until I got to 10 Brix- with about 15 minutes left of the boil, I ended up adding 2 cups toal, or about half the one pound bag I bought.
I cooled the kettle down in my sink with a constant flow of 48F water, contemplating the differential equation I had just set up as I burn my finger repeatedly "testing" the kettle temp. After 45 minutes I tested the wort with my thermometer and it was around 70F. As I checked the temperature, the kettle floated under the cooling water letting some tap water flow into the kettle- an equal amount of profanity escaped my lips. Soldiering on I funneled it into my 2 gal fermenter and it nearly fills it up. My OG was 10.4 Brix or 1041 I was trying to hit 11.4 or 1046. My meticulous pitching rate calculations go out the window with the increased volume I finished the boil with and so I tossed half a packet of yeast in, hoping for the best. I then aerated and called it a day.
So what happened with my gravity?
-Was it the slightly lower mash temp?
-Was it the screwed up boil off estimate?
-Both?
I have pics but they're too big to attach
Thanks again for everyone's help... and now the waiting game begins.
At the local homebrew supply I picked up 1) Belgian Pilsner Malt, 5 lbs along with 2) a dry yeast for this recipe- safbrew T58 and 3) Saaz hops (I skipped the hallertau from the original recipe, going all Saaz was a tip in the book that I got the recipe from) and 4) extra light DME- just in case I didn't hit my OG.
I crushed the delicious smelling grain myself, using the shiny grain mill I had sitting around. I fiddled with the admittedly coarse adjustments so that it wouldn't let any sneaky grains by whole but also without making much dust. It looked finer than what would come from the store, so I counted it as "double" crushed, which is what's mostly recommended for biab, and continued on.
I brought the 2.99 gal of our hard water, adjusted from the original qty. for my pot size, to about 153F. I expected only adding a measly 1.82lb of grain would drop it to right around 149F- my kill zone. I stirred in the grain and checked the temp- 149F, awesome! I put my pot in the oven, set to the lowest temperature (about 140F). Checking the temperature about halfway in I found the mash to be at 145F..."uhh oh" I thought to myself. I tried raising the temperature of the oven over the second half of the mash but the temperature remained the same, and so I started to get a little nervous.
At the end of the mash I took out the grains, gave them a good squeeze, and, unable to wait any longer, I checked my gravity.. 5 Brix. Now keep in mind at the end of the boil I should be at 11.4 according to this recipe. Having no clue, I leave my faith in the boil. Well, towards the end of the boil I check the gravity again, 6 Brix. "What the...?" I feverishly ripped open the DME and added it in 1/2cup quantities while checking the gravity until I got to 10 Brix- with about 15 minutes left of the boil, I ended up adding 2 cups toal, or about half the one pound bag I bought.
I cooled the kettle down in my sink with a constant flow of 48F water, contemplating the differential equation I had just set up as I burn my finger repeatedly "testing" the kettle temp. After 45 minutes I tested the wort with my thermometer and it was around 70F. As I checked the temperature, the kettle floated under the cooling water letting some tap water flow into the kettle- an equal amount of profanity escaped my lips. Soldiering on I funneled it into my 2 gal fermenter and it nearly fills it up. My OG was 10.4 Brix or 1041 I was trying to hit 11.4 or 1046. My meticulous pitching rate calculations go out the window with the increased volume I finished the boil with and so I tossed half a packet of yeast in, hoping for the best. I then aerated and called it a day.
So what happened with my gravity?
-Was it the slightly lower mash temp?
-Was it the screwed up boil off estimate?
-Both?
I have pics but they're too big to attach
Thanks again for everyone's help... and now the waiting game begins.
Post #14 made 10 years ago
Johnny, you were 2-3 brix points below you GIB, And I know, the Lower Temp. of 145F takes Much longer than 90 to finish Conversion.
If you can, Plan for 152F for the Mash, this will raise you SG to projected.
JMHO.
If you can, Plan for 152F for the Mash, this will raise you SG to projected.
JMHO.
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
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Post #15 made 10 years ago
Congrats on your first BIAB Johnny 
,
Extra congrats are deserved for brewing such a small batch size. Smaller batches are harder to brew in many ways than large batches so, good on you.
There's many things that could have caused your low gravity. 145 F (62.8 C) is still an okay temperature for mashing but, what if your thermometer is 3 degrees out which is quite common? So first rule is to make sure you have a few thermometers so that you know you are accurate on your mash temp.
Secondly, on your first batches, I'd want to see you stirring the mash regularly and then checking the temperature. In some set-ups or with some recipes, there doesn't seem to be much of a need to stir but in others there does. Stay on the safe side.
Did you boil with the lid off btw? Just want to check that.
There are many other possible reasons (incorrectly weighed grain is just one) but for now, you have nothing to worry about. This beer will be fine, if not great.
Before your next brew, have a check through this list to see if anything stands out. Get an extra thermometer or two and try the stirring on the next brew.
Nothing to worry about for now though,
PP
,Extra congrats are deserved for brewing such a small batch size. Smaller batches are harder to brew in many ways than large batches so, good on you.
There's many things that could have caused your low gravity. 145 F (62.8 C) is still an okay temperature for mashing but, what if your thermometer is 3 degrees out which is quite common? So first rule is to make sure you have a few thermometers so that you know you are accurate on your mash temp.
Secondly, on your first batches, I'd want to see you stirring the mash regularly and then checking the temperature. In some set-ups or with some recipes, there doesn't seem to be much of a need to stir but in others there does. Stay on the safe side.
Did you boil with the lid off btw? Just want to check that.
There are many other possible reasons (incorrectly weighed grain is just one) but for now, you have nothing to worry about. This beer will be fine, if not great.
Before your next brew, have a check through this list to see if anything stands out. Get an extra thermometer or two and try the stirring on the next brew.
Nothing to worry about for now though
,PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 06 Jan 2015, 17:35, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #16 made 10 years ago
I notice across the internet most people post recipes without mentioning results.
I tasted this batch after 2 weeks conditioning, the results:
The beer was medium carbonation, golden in color and rather hazy (no clarifying agents). The beer held a consistent head. It tasted good, with the Belgian yeast as the star of this brew. For the style there was a good balance of malt to hops and really reminded me of some commercial Belgian Pale Ales. It didn't have much complexity though, as you might expect from a 100% Belgian pils grain bill. I would probably give this an 8/10, very enjoyable albeit simple.
I tasted this batch after 2 weeks conditioning, the results:
The beer was medium carbonation, golden in color and rather hazy (no clarifying agents). The beer held a consistent head. It tasted good, with the Belgian yeast as the star of this brew. For the style there was a good balance of malt to hops and really reminded me of some commercial Belgian Pale Ales. It didn't have much complexity though, as you might expect from a 100% Belgian pils grain bill. I would probably give this an 8/10, very enjoyable albeit simple.
Post #17 made 10 years ago
Very nice. I've been messing around with a belgian pale recipe for a while now, trying to get something like a Goose Island Matilda. I only brewed it once back during summer mos, and it was pretty far off in the complexity as well. My goal is to use candi sugar in place of original dextrose, and ramp the fermentation temperature much higher (80F w/ Belgian Ardennes yeast) to get more esters.
Do you plan on experimenting with this style as well?
Do you plan on experimenting with this style as well?
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Post #18 made 10 years ago
PP: I did double check my thermometer, and it was accurate. I also did boil with the lid off. As far as weighing grains, I did it on a digital kitchen scale so unless the scale is calibrated wrong I don't think there was a mistake with weighing.
Rick: I'm definitely going to make this recipe again. I will probably just repeat it, with no changes to see how consistent my results will be. I had the beer I made tasted by two judges and the reviews were very positive. When asked about any criticisms they might have, they didn't have any! One judge commented on a slight sulphate taste but felt it was most likely from the yeast and not a fault. Some comments it got were: fruity nose, peppery nose, crisp taste (very slightly on the farmhouse side), refreshing. I think one of the judges were surprised when I told him it was a single malt, single hop brew (I went all saaz).
Rick: I'm definitely going to make this recipe again. I will probably just repeat it, with no changes to see how consistent my results will be. I had the beer I made tasted by two judges and the reviews were very positive. When asked about any criticisms they might have, they didn't have any! One judge commented on a slight sulphate taste but felt it was most likely from the yeast and not a fault. Some comments it got were: fruity nose, peppery nose, crisp taste (very slightly on the farmhouse side), refreshing. I think one of the judges were surprised when I told him it was a single malt, single hop brew (I went all saaz).
Post #19 made 10 years ago
I just wanted to add a picture of the brew. It's very clear with a light golden color.
I had one last night and boy was it great! Crisp and refreshing with a distinctive Belgian taste.
I had one last night and boy was it great! Crisp and refreshing with a distinctive Belgian taste.
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Post #20 made 10 years ago
She sure is beautiful!
Some people are like slinkies. Not good for much, but bring a smile to your face when pushed down the stairs.
Weehoosebrewing.ga
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