Before I had a SS siphon I used my 1/2" silicone tubing with a jiggler, but often found it quicker/easier to put the tube in the boiling wort (for sanitation), then when ready to transfer, just pick it up (kinked to stop flow) with my silicone gloves on.
Make sure one end stays in liquid then place in cube and release kink.

Have to say it is quite dangerous with boiling wort but it worked for me, and I love anything cheap i.e. ghetto!

Mally I have done a bit of research on the "jiggler siphon" and the only ones that I can get readily, are those used for transferring petrol and other non-food grade liquids - certainly not boiling wort. I guess I could try cutting out the copper end bit and putting it into a length of silicon tubing and having a go. What do you think? If I understand you correctly it sounds like you have had success without the jiggler thing - by kinking the tube and letting gravity prime the tube to create a flow?

Well, I am not really recommending the jiggler, Surfboy, as I didnt like it that much. I just mentioned it in case it may help you, as I know of others that like them.
Mine was all copper and recommended for Aquarium use, so I had no problem with using it for transferring wort (hot or cold). I just boiled it to clean off any oils/dirt/residue etc.

As for the "kink" method; If you have any silicone tubing, just do a test run in the kitchen sink or something with cold water to get the technique right and see if you like it.
I would recommend silicone gloves with hot wort though (even though on occasions I managed it bare handed too).

Others have had success with overnight kettle chilling as well. I seem to remember they used a sanitised cloth (maybe soaked in starsan) to catch any microorganisms during cooling/wort contraction.
It's really just finding what works for you.

Get yourself an auto siphon. This beautiful tool makes liquid transfers quick and easy. If you get one you will find yourself using it multiple times during a brew.

Fermtech Regular 5/16" Auto Siphon With 8 feet of Tubing, Clear, 1 Piece https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00AYHS7ZY/ref ... jCbRBF9KS4

Hi there @Surfboy66 and welcome to the forum ,

I've read this thread from beginning to end a few times over the last 20 minutes. It's a good thread @Surfboy66 , no doubt about that. I think what's confusing you and probably those who have replied, is the title of this thread, "Transferring near-boiling wort into cube."

Chilling is very confusing. Most authors, sites, magazines, etc., ignore it.

What I'm going to say to you, firstly, @Surfboy66, is to go back and think on.... (Thank you tizoc for finding the old stuff I had written. You referred to the following)...

Active Chilling: (Involves equipment and water.) Could be immersion chiller, plate chiller or counter-flow chiller. Will only cool to a few degrees of tap temperature so if tap temp is too warm, then a pre-chiller with ice (involves a copper coil in a bucket of iced water) will need to be employed as the wort gets to within a few degrees of tap temp. Alternatively, the wort can be transferred to the fermentor after chilling with tap water and then the remaining chill to pitching temp can be done in a fridge.

(For small batch brewers, the above can be achieved in a laundry tub/sink.)

No-Chilling/Overnight Chilling: (Involves zero chilling equipment.) This involves placing the lid (and towel, see below) on the kettle at flame-out and leaving it to chill in the kettle overnight. To avoid the possibility of stewing the hops, I would advise using your BIAB bag as a hop-sock and removing the sock from the wort, ten minutes after flame-out. Cover the lid of the kettle with a towel once the heat settles down a little to help prevent nasties accessing the kettle.

With this method, you should reach ambient air temperature within 24 hours. Drain into fermentor and if necessary, chill further to pitching temp.

No-Chilling/Delayed Pitching: (Involves a high-temp, food-grade, plastic cube). About five or ten minutes after flame-out, wort is transferred via silicone hose and ball-valve or jiggler syphon to plastic cube. Cube is filled to brim (or air squeezed out) and then capped and left to cool.

Wort can be left in the cube for weeks and months before transferring to fermentor, (final chilling to pitching temp if needed) and pitching. I would suggest using 'kettle chilling' above instead of cube chilling if you intend to pitch the wort asap as this removes an extra transfer and an extra vessel to clean.


I haven't re-read the above thoroughly since I wrote it but, on a quick skim, it still looks good.

What the above does not mention though is the obvious. Don't worry, the obvious is missing from many threads, forums, magazine articles and podcasts. The obvious could fill thousands of paragraphs.

So, a few important questions that haven't been asked or answered here yet are, "What sort of beer do you want to brew and when do you want to drink it?"

Every beer style is different. Some require exquisite care to brew, some we can brew while riding a train. What we want to know here though, firstly, is whether this style is one that is capable of not being actively chilled.

Once we know that, then we can venture further I reckon

PistolPatch wrote: ↑

5 years ago

What the above does not mention though is the obvious. Don't worry, the obvious is missing from many threads, forums, magazine articles and podcasts. The obvious could fill thousands of paragraphs.

I'm super-impressed at those three sentences I wrote as I have absolutely no idea now what I was referring to . I swear that during a recent operation I had they took out a bit of my brain without telling me. Very unethical!!!

I think most of the rest of what I wrote makes sense. I know that your reply Jon is excellent.

I'm really pleased that you started with a few of the recipes recommended here. Amarillo hops had a few poor vintages but I think they might be coming good again. It's time I brewed that recipe again. The Krispy Kolsch should always be fantastic and, for your lager, this Munich Helles recipe is another robust (reliable) one.

You mention above that you are a scientist. This, I think, is excellent but it can also cause some trouble. Five years ago I wrote about Number Respect and Disrespect. I suspect that still holds true.

It's been a long day but I'm frustrated I haven't answered your question re what styles are suited to "Overnight Chilling." To be honest I'm not sure I can answer the question despite the arrogant certainty I displayed in my prior post .

There are not only so many new hop varieties appearing each year, some new hop varieties change their character completely in their first five years and all hop varieties change in some way from one vintage to the next. When "Delayed Pitching," first arose here in Ozland, I had friends that would brew the same APA, actively chill one batch and "delay pitch" the next one and we could not detect a difference. I've also done actual side by sides of some recipes and triangular-tested for differences. (The results will be buried here on the forum somewhere. Search for "side-by-side" will probably find it.). But, I've also read of some other experiments where changes have been noticed. The stewing tizoc mentioned was brought up in a Melbourne experiment - a few tasters noticed a vegetable taste in the "no-chilled," beer.

So, does this mean that the higher the amount of hops in the recipe the more chance there is for error if active chilling is not employed?

Well, once again, I am at a loss as some lager brewers whom I highly respect will swear that active chilling is necessary (so a cold break occurs) and others I know and have the same respect for do not find it a problem.

I have two identical brew set-ups. Normally I will brew using "best or safest known practices" but having the two set-ups has lead to me doing and documenting side-by-side experiments for about a decade. I've passive chilled a heap of batches and kettle-chilled quite a few too (just a towel over the top is fine). I have never found a problem with either of the latter. (Well, except when I kept some no-chills for over 18 months in cubes where the seal was faulty. Was it the seal or the 18 months that was the problem? I don't know.)

Hopefully the above inspires confidence Jon? The only poor beers I've made were through my own stupidity (using old yeast) or using faulty equipment (brand new kegs with faulty welds). Keep things as simple as you can for now, for sure!


PP

Surfboy66 wrote: ↑

5 years ago

This isn’t meant to be a rant...

There can never be enough rants on this subject Jon
Thanks for writing that. So nice to hear this from someone with access to "real" instruments as there is a diabolical amount of misinformation out there. I'll add two links...
Readings from Eleven Thermometers at Seven Temperature Points
Hydrometer and Refractometer Test Using Sugar, Coffee and Urine