New to AG and BIAB, need some guidence

Post #1 made 3 years ago
So I'm planing my first AG brew (an APA) using the BIABacus and would really appreciate it if somebody could take a look at what I've done and give me some feedback on what I could change to improve it. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
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Post #2 made 3 years ago
HI pasBrewer

I cant comment on the Recipe but A couple of notes you may want to consider. I am sure the Gurus will chip in as well

1) Best if you Change your mash and boil times to 90 minutes
2 - Not sure where the recipe is from but if your Hops have a different AA% than the original you can add that in section D on the right hand side. BIABacus will adjust for you how much to use. If they are the same AA% then there's no need. Also re the Rcipe lots of info on here about High and low integrity recipes worth reading.
3: Section C - For this batch though, I'd like to try an OG of: - you can leave that blank no need to put in a figure there.
4: On brewday take lots of measurements to put into section L. It will help you down the track if you run into problems.

Happy brewing
Last edited by bundy on 06 Dec 2015, 08:55, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #4 made 3 years ago
Basicallybest practice pasBrewer

- Increased mash maximise's efficiency into boil (Extract as much of those lovely sugars as you can)

- 90 min Boil time recommended for ensuring DMS is fully boiled off.

Both are just best practice and good habits to get into

Cheers
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Post #6 made 3 years ago
Pitch, if your Grain is not Ground to Dust, and your bag is made of Voile(curtain) there is no Husk in the Wort.

The Best Idea from BIAB.

Unless, you follow the Distiller Process, where they Do Boil the Fermented Mash to extract Alcohol.
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
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Post #7 made 3 years ago
Pilch wrote:I read somewhere recently that the extra boil time (90mins) starts to extract unwanted additions from the grain husks???
Hi Pilch, I've never heard of such a thing and being that when you boil the only thins that should be in your Kettle are Water + Sugars extracted from your Grain during the mash + Hops. So based on that there's no way that can be true. (unless of course the person writing it was brewing in a fashion that no one else uses) ;)
Last edited by bundy on 24 Dec 2015, 13:19, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #8 made 3 years ago
Well I am glad we sorted that little misconception out early in my journey, thanks guys. I am reading a lot of slightly contradictory information whilst wading through lots of brewing sites on the web, so it good to get reliable information straight from the horses mouth (so to speak).

New to AG and BIAB, need some guidence

Post #10 made 3 years ago
There's lots of terrible information on the internet about everything, including brewing!

My advice for the first few brews would be not to worry too much about the numbers and concentrate on the process. There's a bit to think about the first few times but it soon becomes second nature.

By that I don't mean don't measure things, the opposite in fact! Measure volume and specific gravity at every step of the process, record all your measurements and compare them to the Biabacus, just don't worry if they aren't exactly what was estimated! It's a pretty forgiving process and even if you're not exact you will still make beer!

Ask lots of questions and you will find there's plenty of people willing to help. We all knew nothing about brewing at some point and learned from other helpful souls!

Post #11 made 3 years ago
I second Contrarian's post. I started brewing AG in January - 4 not to great brews (three drinkable but not what I wanted) - terrible time finding solid information etc. Once I went to BIAB and data mined the site I have been enjoying the process and the results.
Measure everything and take notes you will find yourself learning and tweaking based on your set up, equipment, and style (though some have said I have no style...)
And as you will hear often here - relax and enjoy - your making beer!
B4M
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Post #13 made 3 years ago
flhb wrote:A few articles on boil length. I only boil longer than 60 min (assuming an AG beer) if I a need to reduce the wort.

http://brulosophy.com/2015/03/11/the-im" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... t-results/ (for an ale)

http://brulosophy.com/2015/09/14/boil-l" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... t-results/ (for pilsner malt)

Appreciate the input flhb, there are a lot of differing thoughts on boil length. Many of us who were once "60 minute boil fans" have gone to 90 minute boil. This article points out some good reasons for the longer boil, especially the "STAGES AND LENGTH OF BOILING" section......have a look and decide for yourself: http://bavarianbrewerytech.com/news/boilhops.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


---Todd
Last edited by thughes on 13 Jan 2016, 03:05, edited 1 time in total.
WWBBD?
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Post #14 made 3 years ago
Pasbrewer, try the sound advice above of 90 min mash and 90 min boil. After lots of reading on this forum and elsewhere I find that it makes good sense and good beer. When it comes to the reasoning behind why you should do something, there is also a big spread of integrity. The article linked in post #13 above started out OK, but later it distorted some things and then says,
"According to emp- irical data, the optimum pH level for hop utilization is between 5.2."
Fingernails on the blackboard! What awful noise is the standard for evoking ARRRGH! today? (and now for a partial score; 2........) Todd is right when he says above, "...decide for yourself." When you have some brewing experience and can explain to others the reasons why you will change from 90 min mash and 90 min boil to something different, then is a good time to experiment. For now, 90/90 and the BIABacus will get you where you want to go. Trust this forum early, and later decide for yourself. Brew on.
Last edited by ShorePoints on 13 Jan 2016, 04:42, edited 1 time in total.

Post #15 made 3 years ago
thughes wrote:
flhb wrote:A few articles on boil length. I only boil longer than 60 min (assuming an AG beer) if I a need to reduce the wort.

http://brulosophy.com/2015/03/11/the-im" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... t-results/ (for an ale)

http://brulosophy.com/2015/09/14/boil-l" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... t-results/ (for pilsner malt)

Appreciate the input flhb, there are a lot of differing thoughts on boil length. Many of us who were once "60 minute boil fans" have gone to 90 minute boil. This article points out some good reasons for the longer boil, especially the "STAGES AND LENGTH OF BOILING" section......have a look and decide for yourself: http://bavarianbrewerytech.com/news/boilhops.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;


---Todd
Interesting - but I'm not familiar with the source, and I'm a little skeptical about it. It's from 1999 and it's aimed (I think at least judging from their home page) at commercial brewers (as we all know, some things that are true at a large scale, may not be true at a small scale). I don't think there is a thing wrong with 90 minute boiling, but I haven't seen enough evidence to make me want to add half an hour to my brew day. I think you can make great beer both ways.
Last edited by flhb on 13 Jan 2016, 04:59, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #16 made 3 years ago
Most of the veterans around here follow the 90/90 routine. The main concern is the DMS precursors. I have thought about going to a 75min boil for ales with not a lot of pale malt. The more kilned and roasted a grain the fewer precursors. Any brew using pilsner malt I will stick to a 90 min boil.
In my extract days I always did a 60 min boil with 60 min hop addition and had to watch out for volcanoes. For that reason I love the longer boil times. I can get the hot break out of the way and settle into a nice rolling boil before adding hops.
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New to AG and BIAB, need some guidence

Post #17 made 3 years ago
I normally do a 60 minute boil, I only do longer boils for high gravity beers where
I want the gravity points from a thinner mash and longer boil. I have never had any issues with DMS in any of my beers.

I think as long as you have a good rolling boil that in most cases 60 minutes is enough. If you are worried about DMS and are using a large amount of Pilsner malt 90 is on the safe side.

I also usually don't start my boil timer until the wort has come to the boil and settled down a bit so that might add another 5 minutes or so.

This is just my experience and also what I need to do to get 40L VIF without adding additional water somewhere in the process!

Best bet is to try both and see which result you are happier with!
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