It is recommended to always do a 90 minute mash. As for boil time, don't over-ride ("adjust") the default setting in BIABacus until you get a few brews under your belt and can verify that it actually needs adjusting.
Looks pretty tasty to me!
---Todd
Post #2228 made 8 years ago
Evan, my internet connection is playing up really badly so I'm not sure this post will get through.
Haven't had a look at your files but from what I can see Todd has written, all should be good. There is a reason not to over-ride evap rates - just quickly, they can't be predicted accurately as they change from one brew day to the next depending on atmospheric conditions. The aim therefore is to under-estimate them so as you are more likely to end up with a stronger wort (which is easilly fixed) than a weak wort (which really can't be fixed).
Haven't had a look at your files but from what I can see Todd has written, all should be good. There is a reason not to over-ride evap rates - just quickly, they can't be predicted accurately as they change from one brew day to the next depending on atmospheric conditions. The aim therefore is to under-estimate them so as you are more likely to end up with a stronger wort (which is easilly fixed) than a weak wort (which really can't be fixed).
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Post #2229 made 8 years ago
Evan, my connection has stopped playing up now but I thought my second last post above found that 0.5 to 1.25 lb discrepancy on the chocolate??? I was amazed by it. Mind you, I had several tabs open at the time so it's possible that the links I gave above were not the right ones showing the chocolate discrepancy (I don't have time to check now).
I think though, that all the posts above prove, without doubt, that before copying a recipe from "the net" or some books or a magazine, you need to find a reliable recipe source.
There are two options for you (and me) now...
I could spend another hour or two on this and come up with an answer, maybe?* If I do that, I'll also get crucified by some people I have watching over my shoulder (I'm meant to be spending my time on the new site not this one - oops!)**
Or, you can stop and think about the above posts. Your original desire may have been to copy "such and such" a beer but, we've seen above, how ridiculous recipes you find on the net are. So, instead, start thinking about style. Buy 'Brewing Classic Styles' and 'Modern Homebrew Recipes'** that are at the bottom of this page.
In those books, find what you want to brew. See how or if they differ from Denny's original recipe and then throw your file up.
PP
* That would depend on what "Denny" version you have tasted and I doubt you would know that.
** As far as I know, this site has never received any money from Amazon. In other words, the links below are provided because you buying those books will make things easier for people like me
. (Dodgy recipes from sources we don't know cost hours and hours. I'd prefer you buy those books before even becoming a Donor on this site as it will save all of us a heap of time and money!)
I think though, that all the posts above prove, without doubt, that before copying a recipe from "the net" or some books or a magazine, you need to find a reliable recipe source.
There are two options for you (and me) now...
I could spend another hour or two on this and come up with an answer, maybe?* If I do that, I'll also get crucified by some people I have watching over my shoulder (I'm meant to be spending my time on the new site not this one - oops!)**
Or, you can stop and think about the above posts. Your original desire may have been to copy "such and such" a beer but, we've seen above, how ridiculous recipes you find on the net are. So, instead, start thinking about style. Buy 'Brewing Classic Styles' and 'Modern Homebrew Recipes'** that are at the bottom of this page.
In those books, find what you want to brew. See how or if they differ from Denny's original recipe and then throw your file up.
PP
* That would depend on what "Denny" version you have tasted and I doubt you would know that.
** As far as I know, this site has never received any money from Amazon. In other words, the links below are provided because you buying those books will make things easier for people like me
. (Dodgy recipes from sources we don't know cost hours and hours. I'd prefer you buy those books before even becoming a Donor on this site as it will save all of us a heap of time and money!)If you have found the above or anything else of value on BIABrewer.info, consider supporting us by getting some BIPs!
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Post #2230 made 8 years ago
.
Last edited by Evanspa on 22 May 2016, 23:17, edited 2 times in total.
Post #2231 made 8 years ago
Good on you Evan and thanks for ordering one of the books - they will help you no end .
I think the problem with the original BIABacus file was the incorrect OG from memory
. Once you determine the correct VAW of the original recipe, you'll definitely find things fall into line but on many recipes on the net, things never add up.
There is a problem with BIABacus PR1.3T in the miscellaneous section. The WYWU (What you will use) column is incorrect. SEE THIS THREAD.
Your file looks great and I'm really pleased you chose that version as it is the one that makes most sense to me.
Some Notes
Whirfloc should be added 5 minutes before end of boil not 15. This is a widely spread error. Whirfloc denatures after ten minutes of boiling. In your brew, you will only need 1/4 of a tab (0.5 grams) - more is not better.
Be really careful on your mash temp. Strike lower rather than higher and use at least two thermometers as 68C is getting close to 70C which is a temp it is best not to exceed during the mash.
Maybe sanitise the vanilla beans???? Not really sure on that
. I think it would be a good idea though as they'd have to have bacteria etc on them.
I think that's it
.
Post your file and recipe up in a new thread once you have brewed it. I'd like to hear how it goes.
PP
.I think the problem with the original BIABacus file was the incorrect OG from memory
. Once you determine the correct VAW of the original recipe, you'll definitely find things fall into line but on many recipes on the net, things never add up.There is a problem with BIABacus PR1.3T in the miscellaneous section. The WYWU (What you will use) column is incorrect. SEE THIS THREAD.
Your file looks great and I'm really pleased you chose that version as it is the one that makes most sense to me.
Some Notes
Whirfloc should be added 5 minutes before end of boil not 15. This is a widely spread error. Whirfloc denatures after ten minutes of boiling. In your brew, you will only need 1/4 of a tab (0.5 grams) - more is not better.
Be really careful on your mash temp. Strike lower rather than higher and use at least two thermometers as 68C is getting close to 70C which is a temp it is best not to exceed during the mash.
Maybe sanitise the vanilla beans???? Not really sure on that
. I think it would be a good idea though as they'd have to have bacteria etc on them.I think that's it
.Post your file and recipe up in a new thread once you have brewed it. I'd like to hear how it goes.
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 12 May 2016, 21:23, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #2233 made 8 years ago
Hi,
I'm approaching the day where I'll go for my first small batch BIAB brew.
I'm looking at a Cascade Single Hop Pale Ale from the Greg Hughes bible.
I've used the BIABacus to enter the recipe, and hopefully scale it to 4.5L (one glass demijohn). My plan is eventually to have a two batch brewday and ferment both in a water bath with fish tank heater.
I've attached the recipe too, to hopefully prevent any poorly transposed numbers.
Could someone kindly check my numbers and provide some feedback?
Many thanks.
I'm approaching the day where I'll go for my first small batch BIAB brew.
I'm looking at a Cascade Single Hop Pale Ale from the Greg Hughes bible.
I've used the BIABacus to enter the recipe, and hopefully scale it to 4.5L (one glass demijohn). My plan is eventually to have a two batch brewday and ferment both in a water bath with fish tank heater.
I've attached the recipe too, to hopefully prevent any poorly transposed numbers.
Could someone kindly check my numbers and provide some feedback?
Many thanks.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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Post #2235 made 8 years ago
.
Last edited by Evanspa on 21 May 2016, 02:50, edited 2 times in total.
Post #2236 made 8 years ago
KFL...not KLF. 
I think most would say try to get out what you can... But it's not a big deal, especially if you Cold Crash after fermentation before bottling or kegging. I normally don't have much KFL for the same reason - most goes in the fermenter.
Here is another recent post I answered this in detail:
http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=3646
Hope it helps!
I think most would say try to get out what you can... But it's not a big deal, especially if you Cold Crash after fermentation before bottling or kegging. I normally don't have much KFL for the same reason - most goes in the fermenter.
Here is another recent post I answered this in detail:
http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=3646
Hope it helps!
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Post #2237 made 7 years ago
I've been lurking around and finally decided to Join the forum. Great information.
I have a Q's about volumes. I am trying to confirm the OG of a recipe based on my equip.
If I enter the Grain bill into an OG calc. (brewers Friend, What are the corresponding volumes in BIABacus?
I get the pre-boil but would the post boil value be "Flame out"(VFO) or "Ambient"(VAW)?
I have a Q's about volumes. I am trying to confirm the OG of a recipe based on my equip.
If I enter the Grain bill into an OG calc. (brewers Friend, What are the corresponding volumes in BIABacus?
I get the pre-boil but would the post boil value be "Flame out"(VFO) or "Ambient"(VAW)?
Post #2238 made 7 years ago
RudyPoo - Yes, Volume at FlameOut is the volume of the hot liquor at the time the heat is turned off while Volume of Ambient Wort is the volume of the wort after it has cooled to room temperature. The hot liquid is a larger volume due to expansion, once cooled, it contracts. Post boil could be either one - if Brewer's Friend doesn't say, then pick one in the BIABacus and compare, then check the other. The difference in volume units will be greater and more noticeable if you use artificially large hypothetical numbers for scale in each 'program' - maybe a Brewer's Friend user knows for sure.
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Post #2239 made 7 years ago
Rudy, the thing about biabacus is it works backwards compared to most other programs, and once you get your head around this, it actually makes a lot of sense.
Biabacus does not give you an OG based on your grain bill. It gives you a grain bill based on your OG and your equipment, and a few other things. Reasoning here is that when you design a recipe, you should be starting with OG, not grain weights. When I design a recipe, I think to myself, I think I will make an IPA, I would like an OG around 1.062. Thats the first thing I enter, after the kettle dimensions, and mash and boil times I plan to use. Next, I decide on the percentage of what malt I will use, ie 80% Pale, 10% munich, 7 % crystal, 3% carafoam. Enter names and those numbers (without the %) in the left of the grain bill section, and on the right Biabacus tells me exactly how many grams to use of each, to hit my desired OG on my equipment. Because of this, when designing recipes with biabacus its a good idea to do so before you buy your malt.
Since you are trying to work backwards and already have a grain bill, your best bet would be to enter the amount of grain you have on the left, grams works fine here too rather than %s, (just %s are easier when designing a recipe), then enter an OG above and change it until the grain weights on the right are the same as the left...
Biabacus does not give you an OG based on your grain bill. It gives you a grain bill based on your OG and your equipment, and a few other things. Reasoning here is that when you design a recipe, you should be starting with OG, not grain weights. When I design a recipe, I think to myself, I think I will make an IPA, I would like an OG around 1.062. Thats the first thing I enter, after the kettle dimensions, and mash and boil times I plan to use. Next, I decide on the percentage of what malt I will use, ie 80% Pale, 10% munich, 7 % crystal, 3% carafoam. Enter names and those numbers (without the %) in the left of the grain bill section, and on the right Biabacus tells me exactly how many grams to use of each, to hit my desired OG on my equipment. Because of this, when designing recipes with biabacus its a good idea to do so before you buy your malt.
Since you are trying to work backwards and already have a grain bill, your best bet would be to enter the amount of grain you have on the left, grams works fine here too rather than %s, (just %s are easier when designing a recipe), then enter an OG above and change it until the grain weights on the right are the same as the left...
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Post #2240 made 7 years ago
I am not to the point of making my own recipes yet so my brews are copied from other sources, usually one with many reviews or copied from a kit.
I enter a recipe on the left, including the expected OG. Then I enter my equipment and the volume I would like to Brew. This gives me a grain bill under "what you will use".
Then I use an OG calculator to check the both the original and my new Grain bill to see if it will work out. Kind of a double check. I do this because I missed the OG on the first 2 brews and found the recipe "batch" size did not match the grain bill.
On some recipes it works if I enter the VIF as "post boil" in the OG calculator and others if I enter VAW. Just was not sure which to use.
Sometimes I will increase the OG I would like to try for under section C.
Which leads me to another Q's regarding OG and the grain bill: I noticed if I increase the OG I want, the entire grain bill increases. I was thinking only the Base should increase since I am not also increasing the volume(?)
I enter a recipe on the left, including the expected OG. Then I enter my equipment and the volume I would like to Brew. This gives me a grain bill under "what you will use".
Then I use an OG calculator to check the both the original and my new Grain bill to see if it will work out. Kind of a double check. I do this because I missed the OG on the first 2 brews and found the recipe "batch" size did not match the grain bill.
On some recipes it works if I enter the VIF as "post boil" in the OG calculator and others if I enter VAW. Just was not sure which to use.
Sometimes I will increase the OG I would like to try for under section C.
Which leads me to another Q's regarding OG and the grain bill: I noticed if I increase the OG I want, the entire grain bill increases. I was thinking only the Base should increase since I am not also increasing the volume(?)
Post #2241 made 7 years ago
Not being sure to enter it as VIF or VAW is the subject of many a post here regarding recipes with 'Integrity'. If it doesn't tell you, than its a matter of trying both as you are doing and see which one better matches the grain bill. Biabacus is very good at estimating efficiencies and volumes. If you are missing the mark on one or the other or both try and fill out section L and M as you brew and post your file, it makes it easier to see where things went wrong...
When you increase OG, biabacus scales the entire grain bill, it doesn't 'know' which grain is your base malt and estimates extraction potential for all grains equally. This may seem like a less than accurate approach but unless you are using extremely large percentages of specialty malts (like 50% crystal or something) it really won't make a noticeable difference to efficiency/ extraction in my experience. Not sure where volume comes into play in your question other than if you increase it, your grain bill, total water needed etc will also increase. Either way the entire grain bill is scaled equally.
When you increase OG, biabacus scales the entire grain bill, it doesn't 'know' which grain is your base malt and estimates extraction potential for all grains equally. This may seem like a less than accurate approach but unless you are using extremely large percentages of specialty malts (like 50% crystal or something) it really won't make a noticeable difference to efficiency/ extraction in my experience. Not sure where volume comes into play in your question other than if you increase it, your grain bill, total water needed etc will also increase. Either way the entire grain bill is scaled equally.
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Post #2242 made 7 years ago
I have to say BIABacus is an awesome tool! My brew day #'s have been pretty much right on the mark. I can do 5, 4.5, 3 or 2.5 gallon batches and the volumes/gravities are right where they should be! Thanks for the great tool
Post #2243 made 7 years ago
I starting to familiarise myself with BIABactus (I've used BeerSmith until now) and the one thing that got me confused was the "What you will use" part, both grain and hops. But after reading goulaigan post above regarding thinking backwards, it makes more sense, and that's enough for me at the moment.
Really good job!
Really good job!
Post #2244 made 7 years ago
Glad to help. Post your file up here if you have any questions.
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Post #2245 made 7 years ago
Coolio! I actually created a new thread in the recipe section, http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=3695
Post #2246 made 7 years ago
I usually research my recipes from many sources. When I visit the Home Brew shop, many times I end up substituting or they are out of certain ingredients.
My question is: Can I use an "all grain" kits from the large supply houses, plug in my equipment for BIABabacus and get good results?
My question is: Can I use an "all grain" kits from the large supply houses, plug in my equipment for BIABabacus and get good results?
Re: Use this thread to convert recipes to suit your equipment...
Post #2247 made 7 years ago
Hi Lads, the Skink is back. having done a few brews out of Zainasheff's book, I've decided to try one from Brew Your Own Real British Ales, and opted for the Castle Eden Fuggles IPA. I've entered the figures and followed the advice I had written down from an old post about converting these recipes, and while my ABV seems all right, my IBUs look a bit high. Can anyone figure out what I've done wrong (well, you could write a book about the things I've done wrong over the years, and maybe I will, but that's for another day). Help? Please? Ta.
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Re: Use this thread to convert recipes to suit your equipment...
Post #2248 made 7 years ago
A Google search found an Aussie homebrewer suggests 42 IBU.
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Re: Use this thread to convert recipes to suit your equipment...
Post #2249 made 7 years ago
Yes, that's what the book says. Should I just adjust my hop bill to lower the IBU s?
Re: Use this thread to convert recipes to suit your equipment...
Post #2250 made 7 years ago
Yes. Get that down to 40-45.
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