Post #1551 made 10 years ago
Jenno and Recharge: Sorry guys that no one has been able to get to you as yet. I'm still time-challenged but will see if I can give some answers to you both in this post. Firstly...

Jenno

Welcome to the forum ;). Helles will be a great beer for you in the Toowoomba summer. The recipe itself looks good. The only change you might make is to forget the biscuit malt and just go 2% melanoidin buit it is neither here nor there as I don't think 1% will really do much. It's not my area of expertise though so I could be wrong.

As for the file itself, you have done that really nicely :clap:.

We have one problem though and that is the amount of dilutions. The BIABacus PR1.3 has a warning that is not working. In most other versions it does work and in your case, it would say, at the bottom of Section W, Try to reduce dilution amounts above to improve integrity.

What you are doing here is really asking for too much from your kettle. The liquor to grain ratio in your mash is very thick and we aren't certain yet, at those levels, how well the mash even works. At the other end of the brew we have a very large dilution in the fermentor. If your water quality is top notch then it's probably okay. If it is not top notch, then you will certainly compromise the brew, especially a Helles which is one of the most delicate styles to brew. In between, when we add water during the boil, the existing hop formulas change the hop utilisation but in practice we think it probably shouldn't so you might end up with a more bitter beer than you intend.

I know it is annoying but it might be worth re-writing your recipe into a BIABacus PR1.3I. There should be one in the last few pages of this thread. That will at least give you the warnings.

Also if you do an advanced search of my posts for the terms "extreme brewing" and "sweet liquor shop posts", these might lead to some posts that explain the pros and cons of maxi-BIAB a little.

So, in summary, you could brew your beer as per the file but the high volume of dilutions during and post-boil make it highly likely that the integrity of the recipe will be compromised to a degree.

I'm pretty impressed with your file though. It tells me that you have a pretty good handle on things :peace:.

Recharge

I'm not really very skilled on the ingredient design side of things (I usually just copy other people's recipes :)). I can usually spot problems with a recipe though and everything in yours looks fine to me as does your file :salute:.

There's a lot to be said for doing what you are doing. Formulating a recipe that uses up ingredients you have, I think, can result in a lot of education and confidence. Let us know how it goes Richard.

;)
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 14 Dec 2013, 20:57, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #1552 made 10 years ago
I notice that in Jenno's Munich Helles spreadsheet he has set the efficiency to 65%. Is that the right thing to do? - shouldn't he rely on the auto efficiency feature? If I delete the 65% it estimates an efficiency of 55% which is quite a difference.

Post #1553 made 10 years ago
Well spotted rpt :champ:.

And, you are totally correct.

The default adjustments should only be changed if you have a very good reason to. I don't have time to check now but I think that you'll find in PR1.3I, if your recipe falls below an 'Efficiency into Kettle' of 60%, a warning saying "Recipe won't work..." pops up. That warning will be improved down the track but atm it is still a very good sign that you are treading on risky ground.

One more thing I only just noticed was that in Section B, 1.050 is typed in twice on the first line. It is only needed once on the left hand side. It is only in the rarest of situations that the right hand side is needed.

:peace: and thanks rpt.
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Post #1555 made 10 years ago
Thanks PP, I thought that might be the case. Have read the extreme brewing and liquor shop posts and think I have a better understanding now, so I have transferred to PR1.3I (attached) and have reduced the volume into the fermenter and eliminated the sparge and post boil dilution. Hopefully I am on the right path now. Thanks again PP!

Cheers Jenno
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Post #1556 made 10 years ago
Jenno

This plan looks good. I don't see that warning PP mentioned, so the integrity looks good. My only concern, and it might not be anything to worry about, is that the 4.5 L water added during the boil may not be fully in the pot until flame out. I would have this water pre-boiled if that's the case.

I am an advocate of getting all the water in before the boil starts, so I would do a 10.5 L VIF and a 3 L water added before the boil.

:peace:
MS
Last edited by Mad_Scientist on 17 Dec 2013, 07:40, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #1557 made 10 years ago
No time atm but wanted to say here yesterday that, as Mad-Scientist mentioned, I think Jenno's file looks great.

Mad-Scientist is a bit worried about the dilutions during the boil but I would regard these as 'neutral' on quality. If we go back to the sweet liquor shop posts we can think of pre-boil dilutions as possibly adding to quality. At the other end, fermentor (or post-boil) dilutions can be seen as possibly lowering quality depending, mainly I would think, on your water quality.

I don't think we have to be too worried on these things unless we go to extremes. For example, I often dilute post-boil on a windy day and I wouldn't be able to tell you of any difference in quality. I'm probably diluting by about 15% at most though with fairly okay water. Diluting with 50% of crappy tasting water is obviously going to produce a different result :).

'Water added during the boil', I think, is no cause for concern unless you added a heap of it an d all in the last ten minutes of the boil. The main cost of this dilution is really in how much more grain you have to buy.

Does that make sense MS and Jenno?

:scratch:
PP
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Post #1558 made 10 years ago
Thanks PP and Mad_Scientist. Yep, makes perfect sense. I believe from my calcs I should have enough room in the kettle to add the water with 30 minutes to go and I will have it preboiled in another vessel as well, treated for chlorine/clorimines.

I guess all that is left now is to give it a burl.

Thanks for all your help, I'm sure I'll let you guys know if I have any dramas

Cheers
Jenno

Post #1559 made 10 years ago
Hi Guys,
I'm new to the forum so forgive my ignorance if I botch this.
I'm looking to do my first BIAB in the next week. I've done a few extract malts, and have been reading non stop for the last couple days about the move to BIAB.

For my first batch I chose this recipe. It's straight out of "how to brew" by John Palmer

Oak Butt Brown Ale
Malts
3.2 kg pale ale malt
0.9 kg amber malt
0.227 kg crystal 60L malt
0.113 kg chocolate malt

Hops
14g nugget (12%) 60 mins 21 IBU
14g willamette (5%) 15 mins 4 IBU

Yeast
WLP013 London ale. Primary ferment @ 20 degrees C for 2 weeks

60 min mash at 67 degrees C no mashout
target grav of 1.041 for 24.6L (or 1.049 for 21L after boiling)

BG for 24.5 L: 1.041
OG for 21 L: 1.049

Strike water @ 71 C and 2 quarts/pound (sorry, i'm working on my math)
assumed efficiency at 75%
Drain wort to collect 3-3.5 gal. Batch sparge with 3.5 gal to collect 6.5 gal total

I put this in the calculator, but changed my desired beer to 17L. I did this because according to the calculator my 34L pot (31 cm diameter x 42 cm high) would be near full if I did a full 21L batch plus grain bag.

Since it's my first BIAB I am thinking about going no sparge. My kettle (propane fired aluminum turkey fryer) has a perforated insert in it that I plan to put my grain bag in. I figure I can prop it up over the kettle and much of my wort should drip through. Another reason is if I have to boil sparge water, it will have to be upstairs in the kitchen.
questions
1. should i go no sparge like this?
2. if so, with the grain bag in the strainer should I give it a squeeze to get as much out of it as i can?
3. If i do decide to sparge, can I just split the total amount of water prescribed into 2 kettles, mash in one and use the other for sparge?

So I put the info into the calculator, and some results that came out seem strange to me. Again, I'm brand new but if someone could verify the numbers that would be great.

I input:
17L beer produced
1.049 OG
60 min boil time (might have been a mistake)
31 cm kettle diameter
grain as described above

the outcome was:
27.5 L of water required
total mash volume 38cm up my 43 cm kettle

grain
3285g
924g
233g
116g

hops
11.3g
11.3g

my Concern is the grain. It suggests more malt than the original recipe, yet i reduced the end product from 21L to 17L. Forgive me if it seems like I'm not trusting the calculator. I just dont understand why the grain bill would be higher than original for a smaller batch. Have I screwed something up or do I just need to learn to trust the method?

I apologize for the long winded (and potentially unnecessary) message, but I've taken in a lot of info in the last 3 days and I'm just hoping to get my measurements right on the first batch.

thanks

Post #1560 made 10 years ago
Hi Van

Welcome to the forum. I see you have used the calculator, I would recommend using the Biabacus which you can find Here have a go and input your recipe into it and let us know how you get along. I'll dig out my JP book over the weekend and look up the recipe.

Don't worry if the Biabacus looks scary (its not), have a good look at it and give it a go. If you get stuck just shout up.

Yeasty
Last edited by Yeasty on 21 Dec 2013, 06:03, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #1561 made 10 years ago
Hey Van, and welcome to the forum!

Can you open this BIABacus file I attached, in either MS Excel or Libre Office? This is what Yeasty mentioned. Us BIABacus users will answer any of your follow-up questions after looking at this file, makes sense? I inputted enough info into the file to get you going. :)

:peace:
MS
BIABacus PR1.3I - Van's Oak Butt Brown.xls
Last edited by Mad_Scientist on 21 Dec 2013, 06:23, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #1562 made 10 years ago
Thanks guys

That BIABacus is a thing of excel genius. Seriously, well done all involved. I'm a closet math nerd and a huge fan of excel.

Due in part because I'm itching to get started and in part because I have to go visit the in laws for a few days starting tomorrow and wont be able to buy ingredients for a week, I bought them today. I went with my earlier numbers because I hadn't seen the reply and as a result may have over purchased. Since its all ground and in the bag I'm just going to go for it. I had to adjust my desired OG to 1.062 and lower my liquid to the fermenter to accommodate the volume in my 32 L pot. Looks like I'll be brewing a strong-ish beer on the 24th and I can't f'n wait.

Thanks again for the help guys and I'll let you know how it turns out.

Pete

Post #1563 made 10 years ago
Welcome to the forum Pete and congratulations on undertaking your first BIAB :thumbs:.

Here's a few things/answers for you.
vanislander wrote:...I put this in the calculator, but changed my desired beer to 17L. my Concern is the grain. It suggests more malt than the original recipe...
This will commonly be due to one or both of two things. Firstly, the original recipe often refers to a 'fermentor' efficiency instead of a 'kettle' efficiency. These are two different things and are widely mis-used and misunderstood. The other thing is that the defaults in the Calculator and the BIABacus for things like 'Kettle to Fermentor Loss' are set on the generous side. This is done so that the new brewer will generally end up with a bit more wort than planned for and at slightly higher gravity. This is a much better way to end up than less wort at lower gravity.
vanislander wrote:Since it's my first BIAB I am thinking about going no sparge. My kettle (propane fired aluminum turkey fryer) has a perforated insert in it that I plan to put my grain bag in. I figure I can prop it up over the kettle and much of my wort should drip through. Another reason is if I have to boil sparge water, it will have to be upstairs in the kitchen.
questions
1. should i go no sparge like this?
On other forums, you will often hear of people sparging a BIAB but sparging a BIAB defeats the purpose and beauty of BIAB which is to create wort in a single vessel. Later on, after you get this brew done, we can help you to find lots of info on this site that explains why sparging nearly always offers no gain in a BIAB. Let's not worry about that now though ;).
vanislander wrote:That BIABacus is a thing of excel genius.
That is great Pete that you can already see what a lot of work has gone into the formula/maths side etc of the BIABacus but the hardest and most time-consuming work has been in the terminology and design. It actually works in a completely different way from any other software and can do a lot of stuff that other software cannot. For example...
vanislander wrote:Since its all ground and in the bag I'm just going to go for it. I had to adjust my desired OG to 1.062 and lower my liquid to the fermenter to accommodate the volume in my 32 L pot. Looks like I'll be brewing a strong-ish beer...
When your kettle is too small to handle doing a full-volume mash, the BIABacus will let you produce a strong 'sweet liquor' (the sugary, sweet water we get from mashing and/or sparging) and then dilute it before, during or after the boil to get to your correct original gravity. To do this, you play around with Section W of the BIABacus. (Your situation is very rare as normally we crush our grains once we have finalised our plans. You were, understandably, unable to do this. What you can do now though is fiddle with Section W dilutions until the right hand side of Section C matches the amount of grain you bought.)

Where we stand now...

Mad-Scientist has started a BIABacus file for you - good on him! I personally can't help much more unless I see a link to the original recipe (I couldn't find it in How to Brew sorry). None of us can probably help anymore until you post your latest BIABacus file here as the 1.062 you mentioned above is not computing with me. Before you do that though, maybe act on the following...

Reading that will help...

I've written a few essays here on several things that I think are very relevant to your situation Pete and they will help you work out how to use Section W in the best manner. If I had more time I'd put direct links but I'm out of time now so you'll have to click on the Advanced Search feature (towards top right) and look for posts done by me searching for the following word sets...

'fermentor kettle useful efficiency'
'sweet liquor shop posts'
'juggle'

At the end of the day...

If you don't get time to find and read the above posts, at the end of the day, as long as you post your "1.062 OG" BIABcus file up here, Yeasty, Mad-Scientist or myself will be able to tell you what the best thing to do on the day is. It will come down to the following instructions...

1. Heat x litres of water to y degrees.
2. Throw in your bag and then all your grain.
3. After removing bag, dilute with x litres.
4. During the boil, dilute with y litres.
5. If absolutely necessary, dilute in the fermentor with z litres.

The five steps above is as complicated as BIAB should get. In fact, in normal BIAB, only the first two steps above are needed :party:.

:peace:
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 21 Dec 2013, 21:47, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #1564 made 10 years ago
1. Heat x litres of water to y degrees.
2. Throw in your bag and then all your grain.
BIAB is done! enjoy the beer! :drink:
Last edited by BobBrews on 21 Dec 2013, 23:05, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #1565 made 10 years ago
Hi Guys
I've attached two versions of the BIABacus below. One at 17L product, 1.062 OG. The other (diluted) at 19L of product, the original 1.049 OG, and a 10.5L added before boil. I put it in the "added before the boil" box rather than the sparge box. However if I do go with the diluted brew, I will be pouring it through the grain bag as I have the perforated insert for my turkey fryer so I can just rest it on the rim of the kettle and add water through it.

Seems I still have even more exploring/things to be impressed by on the BIABacus. I'm headed out of town for a few days and will be away from excel, but will be back the day before brew day, or as some people call it "christmas eve day"... whatever that means

Thanks again guys,
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Post #1566 made 10 years ago
vanislander wrote:Hi Guys
I've attached two versions of the BIABacus below. One at 17L product, 1.062 OG. The other (diluted) at 19L of product, the original 1.049 OG, and a 10.5L added before boil. I put it in the "added before the boil" box rather than the sparge box. However if I do go with the diluted brew, I will be pouring it through the grain bag as I have the perforated insert for my turkey fryer so I can just rest it on the rim of the kettle and add water through it...
Pete, if it is easy for you to heat the water in another vessel (large saucepan) and then pour it though the basket, then do that as it will save you a bit of grain or give you more wort from the same amount of grain. If you are doing this, then that amount of water needs to go in the 'Water Used in a Sparge' field.

Your File/s

Firsly, we really don't need the first file as we want to be producing a beer with the saem OG as the origninal recipe. (Btw, there is still no link to the original recipe so I'm unable to check things as well as could be done but I'm assuiming you have the quantities right.)

In the diluted file I have changed the mash and the boil times to 90 minutes. Read this for explanation.

I think the best solution for you to give you a comfortable Mash Volume and Volume into Boil is follow the file I have attached below. I'm assunimg you bought 5094 grams of grain in total. You'll see on the right side of Section C, I am very close to this and what we end up with is 22.1 L into your fermentor.

To do this...

On Brew Day

1. Heat 22.4 litres of water to 69 degrees (it will expand to 22.8 litres).
2. Throw in your bag and then all your grain.
3. After removing bag, pour 5 L of hot water through your grain (you are only doing this because it is easy for you to do and you can't fit all the volume of water into your mash).
4. During the boil, dilute as and when you can with 5 more litres.

And that's it ;).

Try and read those links in my last post as soon as you can as they are pretty much required reading when you are playing around with kettles that aren't quite big enough. They won't take too long to read but should save you many questions.

Gotta race but let us know if the file and the above makes sense for you.

:peace:
PP
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Post #1567 made 10 years ago
Hello everyone! First time poster...

I'm looking to brew after the holidays and looking for a little help. I've played around with the BIABacus and took a stab at inputting the recipe. Would appreciate if someone can look it over and see where I might need some corrections. The recipe is from Brewing Classic Styles, Czar's Revenge. My kettle is a 10gal Blichmann Boilemaker my wife so generously bought me for my birthday. Due to my fermentation size constraints, I use 2x3gallon better bottle carboys. I would prefer to do a 5gal batch but it looks like this recipe is too big for my 10gal kettle (got the RED warning message), so I sized it down to 4gal in BIABacus. Any thoughts/suggestions would be appreciated.

Here is the original recipe:
OG: 1.098
FG: 1.030
Alcohol: 9.2% ABV
Boil: 60 min
Pre-Boil Volume: 7 gal
Pre-Boil Gravity: 1.084

Grain
19 lbs British pale ale malt/8.62kg

Steeping Grains
Black Roasted Barley 1.5 lbs/.68kg
Special B 1 lbs/.45kg
CaraMunich .5 lbs/227g
Chocolate Malt .5 lbs/227g
Pale Chocolate Malt .5 lbs/227g

Hops
Horizon 13% AA 60min 1.5oz/43g
Kent goldings 5% AA 10min 2 oz/57g
Kent goldings 5% AA 1min 2 oz/57g

Yeast
White Las WLP001, Wyeast 1056 or Safale US-05

Mash at 154F/68C for 60min
Boil for 60min
Ferment at 67F/19C
Carbonate 2-2.5 volumes & age for at least 6 months
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Post #1568 made 10 years ago
Hi chino1975 and welcome to the forum

You did a real good job filling this out, BUT there are 2 things to change.

The book is geared to extract brewing and as such, they use the Rager hop formula (page 40). A 13F style of this strength should be about 80-90 Tinseth. Good job setting the value in Section D, but we need to remove that and over-ride it with a 90 IBU setting. The little style chart on page 175 shows the BJCP style guidelines and the 50-90 IBU is Tinseth!

So, if you change that and do a 90 mins. boil, this is the plan.

:peace:
MS
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Post #1569 made 10 years ago
Howdy. I've been using the BIABacus a bit and I've found it's great for the grain bills and volumes. I'm wondering though about the hop bill calculations. It's Tinseth right? I'm planning a Rogue Shakespeare Stout clone (Bacus sheet and .BSMX attached) and I've run it through the bacus and beersmith. Everything is really similar on both sides except for the hop bills. In Beersmith I'm able to view Tinseth and Rager estimates side by side and for the same hop bill Bacus shows 49 IBU tinseth, Beersmith shows 56.6 tinseth and 68.7 Rager.

The commercial beer is supposed to be 69 IBU (calculated), and the clone recipe I'm following (which is deemed cloned by the Brewing Network folks) is following the Rager formula. http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f12/can-you ... ut-178121/ the bottom part of the first post is the cloned recipe (sort of confusing). With this in mind, I used Beersmith to get my hop bill to 69 Rager and then adjusted the Bacus calculation to match the same in hop amounts. I had to set the IBU to 49 in order to do this, which is what concerns me. I know you guys don't trust Beersmith for anything, but I'm wondering why the difference is so huge, and what I should do here.

I'm inclined to average all of the results and meet everyone halfway! I'm entering this brew into a competition and would like to get close to the intended IBUs of the recipe.
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Post #1570 made 10 years ago
laserghost wrote:Howdy. I've been using the BIABacus a bit and I've found it's great for the grain bills and volumes. I'm wondering though about the hop bill calculations. It's Tinseth right? I'm planning a Rogue Shakespeare Stout clone (Bacus sheet and .BSMX attached) and I've run it through the bacus and beersmith. Everything is really similar on both sides except for the hop bills. In Beersmith I'm able to view Tinseth and Rager estimates side by side and for the same hop bill Bacus shows 49 IBU tinseth, Beersmith shows 56.6 tinseth and 68.7 Rager.
Laserghost, note that Bersmith 1 had two errors in it's Tinseth calculations. One of these errors was corrected in BeerSmith 2 but one still remains. The pre-boil gravity is used in its calculations instead of the gravity at flame-out and so will always read highher than the correct Tinseth number that you find in the BIABacus. Many programs have similiar errors. The BIABacus matches Glen Tinseth's hop page which is the best test of whether a formula is correct or not.
Last edited by Nuff on 23 Dec 2013, 08:27, edited 6 times in total.

Use this thread to convert recipes to suit your equipment...

Post #1573 made 10 years ago
...not sure if this is the right place for a follow up question, but any recommendations on handling the "steeping" grains? Read some old post here talking about adding them at mash out. Should I just add all the grains at once or add the steeping grains during the last 30 minutes or so since this is a single temp mash?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Last edited by chino1975 on 23 Dec 2013, 10:04, edited 6 times in total.

Post #1574 made 10 years ago
chino1975 wrote:...not sure if this is the right place for a follow up question, but any recommendations on handling the "steeping" grains? Read some old post here talking about adding them at mash out. Should I just add all the grains at once or add the steeping grains during the last 30 minutes or so since this is a single temp mash?
I may be the guilty one for saying that. I'm just following what Gordon Strong does, in his book, "Brewing Better Beer". :blush:
Last edited by Mad_Scientist on 23 Dec 2013, 12:55, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #1575 made 10 years ago
Mad_Scientist wrote:
chino1975 wrote:...not sure if this is the right place for a follow up question, but any recommendations on handling the "steeping" grains? Read some old post here talking about adding them at mash out. Should I just add all the grains at once or add the steeping grains during the last 30 minutes or so since this is a single temp mash?
I may be the guilty one for saying that. I'm just following what Gordon Strong does, in his book, "Brewing Better Beer". :blush:
Gordon Strong is very good on this stuff. Listen to some podcasts.

hashie actually raised this subject here back in 2010 :o. Have a read of that thread as it is quite interesting. A lot of it is counter-intuitive. For example, if you only steep the specialty grains, their flavour can be much more pronounced. To understand this, I suppose a good analogy would be that if you overcook some foods, they can become bland.

In saying that though, if you want to copy someone's recipe, you really should be just doing what they did with their specialty grains. For example the Schwarzbier I brew, (mentioned in the link above), if I only add the specialty grains at mash-out, they are too pronounced for me. I could probably do ten side by side brews and work out the perfect way of using the perfect amount of specialty grains at the perfect times but really? :roll:

Any more comments on this specialty grain thing though would probably best go to hashie's thread otherwise they will get lost here. If the Gordon Strong podcast on this (I think it was a Beersmith one) hasn't been mentioned in the other thread, it would be great if someone could find it and do so.

Understanding IBU's

There's just one sentence in one of Mad-Scientist's great posts above that mightn't be reading as well as it should be. The sentence was, "The little style chart on page 175 shows the BJCP style guidelines and the 50-90 IBU is Tinseth!" I would re-write that sentence as follows...

"The little style chart on page 175 shows the BJCP style guidelines and the 50-90 IBU is based on laboratory (and possibly perceived), measurements of IBU's. In other words, these measurements are based on actual, real-life bitterness. Several very basic formulas are available to brewers to help them try and match a laboratory (actual, real-life) IBU. The least primitive and therefore the best formula for all-grain brewers to use is the Tinseth formula."

Actual IBU's (Perceived and Laboratory IBU's)

There is really not much great information on this whole area as the whole area is based on some very unsound premises and history for a start. Here is my current opinion...

The most accurate IBU measurement has to be the perceived IBU's of a decent sample of people. The problem is that this sample of people would have to have some idea of what an IBU was and the only way they can gain a perception of this is through using a laboratory measurement but a laboratory cannot measure all the bitterness's that certain tongues can.

So we have this great circular reference going on.

However, perceived or laboratory IBU's are the best of what we have to work with at present. It gets worse though...

Estimated IBU's (IBU's calculated by formulas).

The only tools we have to try and emulate the desired actual bitterness levels above are formulas and they are pretty crap. For a start, there are three major ones and they will all give you a different estimate (sometimes incredibly different) based on the same recipe. All the formulas are flawed in their logic but the one that has the least errors, especially for all-grain brewers, is the Tinseth formula.

The Very Hard Lesson to Learn

The awful thing about brewing when starting out is that numbers and formulas can lead us to believe that if we bugger them up by a fraction here or a fraction there, it will destroy our brew. The reality is that this just doesn't happen in all-grain.

The hardest lesson to learn in numbers is that when you hear, read or see them elsewhere (other software,sites or books), they'll often be wrong, at best imprecise and nearly always misleading. If you learn enough about the numbers though (on this site because where else is there really?) you'll start to develop a real wisdom and confidence. Here is what I think would happen...

1. You'll start out with confidence as the BIABacus and members here will warn you if you are doing something major wrong.

2. After a few brews of careful measuring, you will start to see how hard it is to get accurate real-life measurements.

3. After more brews, you'll see that, even if you actually make a major mistake, the beer will actually probably still taste very good.

4. After more reading and educating yourself here, you'll see that on other forums, one brewer will post a recipe and that ten others will read it in ten different ways because, for starters, they are not using a common language such as we have almost finalised here on this site.

5. You'll see in those threads on other forums posts form consecutive brewers say, "This recipe is great," but you will also be wise enough to see that Brewer 1 has brewed it in a totally different way from Brewer 2 and Brewer 187 for that matter.

6. You'll then have tremendous confidence to realise that you have a great deal of latitude to play with, especially in all-grain. You'll be able to scientifically practice some artistry. You will know what changes in brewing processes actually really do make a difference and which ones are probably just aberrations of a single brew.

7. Finally you'll be able to hand on to other brewers (and hopefully quantify) what you have, for certain, discovered when it comes to a brewing practice or a recipe.

Anyway, I think I got drunk writing all that. Long work day, then mates around for some beers and then BIABrewer :).

:smoke:
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 23 Dec 2013, 18:48, edited 6 times in total.
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