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Post #1976 made 9 years ago
by PistolPatch
Steve, I'm too short on time atm to back-track through your conversations (and files) with Charles but even if I did, I don't think I could add any value because you two are already communicating. It is a very rare thing to be able to communicate with the original brewer and the point of my last post above was really about how unreliable flavour and hop additions are conveyed in a recipe. I was also drunk a bit :).

What I think though is that you need to ask Charles whether he has an immersion chiller. Did he employ it at 0 minutes or 10 minutes? Did he no-chill? Did he counter-flow or plate-chill and if so when? (The BIABacus allows this info to be entered into Section G - another BIABrewer first ;)) and I assume Charles filled that in.

You will have to make a judgement call a to what to do if your chilling equipment/method is different to Charles. The way I see it, is that the most control you can have in flavour and aroma hops is through an immersion chiller as it can be employed at various rates and times so as to emulate the "other brewer's" method of chilling. The least control is in slow chilling.

I have both of the above fast and slow chilling options available to me and have done quite a few batches with both methods but nowhere near enough where I think I can offer anyone else any valuable advice.

Basically I am trying to say that anyone, or any program, that makes a 'no-chill' or 'whirlpool' adjustment without even knowing the original brewer's chilling method or employment time is obviously seriously flawed.

The first step to becoming really knowledgeable about flavour and aroma hops (I am not really knowledgeable) is realising just how little value formulas are and how much value direct communication with the original brewer has as well as info in posts such as joshua's one here.

Another big point though is to not get too pedantic. A few of us here in Western Australia did at least one side by side on an APA or an IPA (can't remember) and, from the same kettle, drained one half of the kettle into a no-chill cube five minutes after flam-out and then employed my immersion chiller at ten minutes after flame-out. Later we tasted the brews and pretty much no one could work out any important differences.

So, ask what questions you can and then just brew ;). Certainly don't worry that you might be making a critical error. If you are in the ball-park, things will be tasting very good. The only critical error is cleanliness I think.

PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 24 Sep 2014, 21:18, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #1977 made 9 years ago
by cwier60
shetc wrote:So to be clear, Pistol, if I use my immersion chiller immediately after flame out, do I still add the flame out addition of hops as described in cwier60's recipe?
First, I'll admit that this was only my 2nd BIAB (& AG) brew, and obviously I didn't document the details well enough. Hey, I'm learning. However, I would recommend that you add the hops at flameout and then wait 10 minutes before running the chiller.
PistolPatch wrote:the point of my last post above was really about how unreliable flavour and hop additions are conveyed in a recipe.
Not only are they often not conveyed well, but they are so process dependent. What works for me may differ for you. Of course, everyone, especially new brewers, would like to have a formula to follow, but there is just too much variations in brewhouses. If we both follow the same recipe and try to make the same beer, they will probably be very similar (and good beers if a good starting point and they are fermented similarly well).
PistolPatch wrote:What I think though is that you need to ask Charles whether he has an immersion chiller. Did he employ it at 0 minutes or 10 minutes? Did he no-chill? Did he counter-flow or plate-chill and if so when? (The BIABacus allows this info to be entered into Section G - another BIABrewer first ;)) and I assume Charles filled that in.
As I already stated, I think I used the IC at 10 minutes, but shame on me for not documenting better. I have used an IC for my extract beers and most of my early BIABs, but I now also have a counter-flow chiller, but have no-chilled my last several brews, so I really have to document clearly.
PistolPatch wrote:You will have to make a judgement call a to what to do if your chilling equipment/method is different to Charles.
Unfortunately, I think you will just have to learn from experience, which is what I'm trying to do. I was trying to clone Two Hearted Ale, which i assume is your objective as well. Mine was close but not exact, but an awesome beer nonetheless. If you get close, I think you'll still be happy with what you brew. Then you can decide what you think you need to tweak to get closer, if you still want to. Or then come back here or on other forums to ask for guidance for tweaking. As PP says, hopping with late additions and whirlpool type additions are more of an art than science. The calculators just don't provide accurate barometers on flavor and aroma; they calculate isomerized alpha acids only, which is only a small part of the magic of hops. I felt that the flavor and aroma of my beer was better than the Two Hearted I compared it to, but I live far enough away from Bells that I know my beer was much fresher. I think I may have undershot the overall bitterness, so you may want to increase the target IBU if you scale directly from my recipe or increase the bittering 0r 45 min addition, which I did as FWH.
PistolPatch wrote:I have both of the above fast and slow chilling options available to me and have done quite a few batches with both methods but nowhere near enough where I think I can offer anyone else any valuable advice.
Me too, and I'm just learning, trying to figure it all out. There's simply no one right way to do it, which is why I gave you the vague answer earlier when you asked Does that sound right?.
PistolPatch wrote:Certainly don't worry that you might be making a critical error. If you are in the ball-park, things will be tasting very good. The only critical error is cleanliness I think.

PP
Amen, agreed. Even if you follow my recipe exactly and misinterpret something, you'll get a great beer (assuming you like Two Hearted and Centennial).
Last edited by cwier60 on 27 Sep 2014, 11:22, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #1978 made 9 years ago
by shetc
Ok, sounds like a plan - I'm going to let the flame out addition sit for 15 minutes before immersion chilling. Not really looking for an exact clone of Two Hearted, just want something similar that tastes good so my friends will like it. Thanks for your help!
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Post #1979 made 9 years ago
by shetc
cwier60: Brewed the Two Cents IPA today. Hit the OG exactly at 1.064 so I'm chuffed. Can't wait to drink this for Americano Thanksgiving.
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Post #1980 made 9 years ago
by Strengthnhealth
Hey guys
Been quite a while since posting a recipe. Just been very busy with work & life. Still been brewing when I get a chance, enough to keep me in beer most of the time.LOL
I'm out now so time to try my first 10 gal maxi.
Let me know what you think.
Thanks
S & H
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Post #1981 made 9 years ago
by Mad_Scientist
Strengthnhealth wrote:Hey guys
Been quite a while since posting a recipe. Just been very busy with work & life. Still been brewing when I get a chance, enough to keep me in beer most of the time.LOL
I'm out now so time to try my first 10 gal maxi.
Let me know what you think.
Thanks
S & H
I made the mistake of calculating FWH at 20 mins. :sneak: , big mistake for me because I used (272.4 grams = 9.61 ounces). The error compounds very quickly with more hops. I would recommend using a 60 mins. value. :)


I found this in regards to color; http://www.countrymaltgroup.com/downloa" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... -30-12.pdf

... CM Pale (all at minimum color) 3.8 EBC, CM Munich 14.5, C40 105.2


I have no strong opinion on using (that much) 15% C40, but would try 10% or less.

BIABacus looks good !

:peace:

MS
Last edited by Mad_Scientist on 09 Oct 2014, 03:35, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #1982 made 9 years ago
by cwier60
Mad_Scientist wrote:I made the mistake of calculating FWH at 20 mins. :sneak: , big mistake for me because I used (272.4 grams = 9.61 ounces). The error compounds very quickly with more hops. I would recommend using a 60 mins. value. :)
I have to assume that the FWH notation is just an error. You have the 90 minute Summit addition for bittering, so I doubt you really intend to include FWH as well. The 15 minute Centennial addition is the only "later" hop addition you have, so it should not be a FWH. You may want to add a 5 min or FO addition as well.
Mad_Scientist wrote:I have no strong opinion on using (that much) 15% C40, but would try 10% or less.
You have substituted C40 for both C60 and Carapils. Carapils is NOT crystal malt; it's ~1.3° L Dextrin malt added for body and to improve head retention, which some may debate may not be needed in an all-grain brew, since you can also control this with your mash temp. You probably want to keep the Carapils, but I'd recommend keeping the C40 at 5-7%, especially with the relatively light hopping for an IPA. Otherwise, you're likely to have an 'IPA' that's way too sweet. I'm not familiar with Wyeast 1332 Northwest yeast, but that's a pretty high FG for an IPA, which will also tend to provide too much sweetness and body for an IPA. Yes, I know that's probably based on the default 75% attenuation calculation, but you probably want it to finish a little drier, which you may be able to achieve by ramping up the fermentation temp a few degrees after several days (but again I'm not familiar whether this is possible with WY1332).
Last edited by cwier60 on 09 Oct 2014, 10:18, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #1983 made 9 years ago
by Strengthnhealth
Mad_Scientist wrote:
Strengthnhealth wrote:Hey guys
Been quite a while since posting a recipe. Just been very busy with work & life. Still been brewing when I get a chance, enough to keep me in beer most of the time.LOL
I'm out now so time to try my first 10 gal maxi.
Let me know what you think.
Thanks
S & H
I made the mistake of calculating FWH at 20 mins. :sneak: , big mistake for me because I used (272.4 grams = 9.61 ounces). The error compounds very quickly with more hops. I would recommend using a 60 mins. value. :)


I found this in regards to color; http://www.countrymaltgroup.com/downloa" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... -30-12.pdf

... CM Pale (all at minimum color) 3.8 EBC, CM Munich 14.5, C40 105.2

I have no strong opinion on using (that much) 15% C40, but would try 10% or less.

BIABacus looks good !

:peace:

MS
Hey MS
I don't have any carapils so added the C40 as wasn't sure how to adjust the biabacus to eliminate the addition.
The C40 should have a EBC of 40 not 105.2, correct?
Last edited by Strengthnhealth on 09 Oct 2014, 13:02, edited 6 times in total.

Post #1984 made 9 years ago
by Manor
Strengthnhealth wrote:Hey MS
I don't have any carapils so added the C40 as wasn't sure how to adjust the biabacus to eliminate the addition.
The C40 should have a EBC of 40 not 105.2, correct?
S&H, please read cwier60's post above carefully where he correctly states that Carapils is not a Crystal malt.
Last edited by Manor on 09 Oct 2014, 20:16, edited 6 times in total.

Post #1985 made 9 years ago
by paulymd3
Hopefully trying my first BIAB Saturday with this recipe from Brewing Classic Styles and just wanted to verify I used the BIABacus correctly.

Kettle - 8 gallon Megapot 1.2 from Northern Brewer. Just got it thus not sure about the evaporation rate, but hopefully will have some time to run a test.

Here's Jamils recipe for American Pale Ale with Caramel

OG: 1.052
FG: 1.013
ADF: 74%
IBU: 40
Color: 7 SRM (13 EBC)
Alcohol: 5.1% ABV
Boil: 60 minutes
Pre-boil volume: 7 gallons
Pre-boil gravity: 1.044

Grains:
- American two-row 4.94kg (10.9lbs)
- Munich malt 340g (0.75lbs)
- Crystal 340g (0.75lbs), this is listed as steeping grains. I'm assuming with BIAB that converts to just mashing it?

Mash at 68 degress celcius

Hops:
Horizon 13% AA, 60 min
Columbus 14% AA, 10 min
Centennial 9% AA, 10 min
Columbus 14% AA, 0 min
Centennial 9% AA, 0 min

Yeast:
- Wyeast American Ale 1056

Fermentation and Carbonation (for completeness)
- Ferment @ 19 celcius
- Carbonate from 2.0-2.5 volumes

Any and all help greatly appreciated!!
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Post #1986 made 9 years ago
by cwier60
Manor wrote:
Strengthnhealth wrote:I don't have any carapils so added the C40 as wasn't sure how to adjust the biabacus to eliminate the addition.
The C40 should have a EBC of 40 not 105.2, correct?
S&H, please read cwier60's post above carefully where he correctly states that Carapils is not a Crystal malt.
Technically, Carapils may be a crystal, but not in the "normal" sense. It has already been converted like crystal, so it could be steeped instead of mashing, but it has no color. The link I provided for Briess shows 1.3L, not 40 or 60. If you can't get Carapils (or Carafoam or Dextrine, which are all pretty much the same), then you'd be better off replacing this with your base malt instead of C40 and maybe increasing your mash temperature by 1 or 2 degrees to increase the body. And finally, C40 does have an EBC of 105.2, not 40. 40° L = 105.2 EBC = 53.4 SRM. Look on the Unit Conversion tab of the Biabacus to convert from Lovibond to EBC.
Last edited by cwier60 on 09 Oct 2014, 21:23, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #1987 made 9 years ago
by cwier60
paulymd3 wrote:Kettle - 8 gallon Megapot 1.2 from Northern Brewer. Just got it thus not sure about the evaporation rate, but hopefully will have some time to run a test.

Here's Jamils recipe for American Pale Ale with Caramel
paulymd3, I know you'll hate to hear this, but if you think you want to continue BIAB brewing and are not severely limited in space, you should consider contacting NB and seeing if you could return your 8 gallon pot and upgrade to 15 gallon. I see you're doing only 13L VIF at 1.052 OG; with this small pot, you could maybe do 20% more at this gravity for a full-volume boil. Otherwise, you'll always have to be adding water later to get to 5 gallons or higher gravity. I too made the mistake of first buying an 8G pot; I'm hanging on to it in case I want to make some smaller batches, but it has just sat in the garage for the last year while I have started BIAB brewing. 8G is sufficient for most 5G extract beers, but is severely limiting for BIAB, whose one drawback is that it takes a much larger single kettle.

That said, a quick overview looks like you did a good job with the Biabacus. I'd just delete the evaporation rate adjustment in sec X and use the default. That 1.2 pot should have a relatively low evaporation rate, but you need some history over several brews before making adjustments. That's not a lot of hops, but I would use a hopsock (bag) and enter 'Y' in cell K155 in sec G. You'll see that this has a small impact on your KFL in sec K (and thus other volumes prior to that).
Last edited by cwier60 on 09 Oct 2014, 21:51, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #1988 made 9 years ago
by Strengthnhealth
cwier60 wrote:
Manor wrote:
Strengthnhealth wrote:I don't have any carapils so added the C40 as wasn't sure how to adjust the biabacus to eliminate the addition.
The C40 should have a EBC of 40 not 105.2, correct?
S&H, please read cwier60's post above carefully where he correctly states that Carapils is not a Crystal malt.
Technically, Carapils may be a crystal, but not in the "normal" sense. It has already been converted like crystal, so it could be steeped instead of mashing, but it has no color. The link I provided for Briess shows 1.3L, not 40 or 60. If you can't get Carapils (or Carafoam or Dextrine, which are all pretty much the same), then you'd be better off replacing this with your base malt instead of C40 and maybe increasing your mash temperature by 1 or 2 degrees to increase the body. And finally, C40 does have an EBC of 105.2, not 40. 40° L = 105.2 EBC = 53.4 SRM. Look on the Unit Conversion tab of the Biabacus to convert from Lovibond to EBC.
cwier60
Thanks for the info. I realized that it wasn't a crystal, guess I could have just eliminated it from the original recipe instead of adding the c40. I will try adding more pale malt & increasing the mash temp as you suggest.
OK now the ebc makes sense, it was late last night, will check out the conversion chart as well.
I don't brew that often, thats why I posted the recipe.
Thanks again guys
Last edited by Strengthnhealth on 09 Oct 2014, 22:03, edited 6 times in total.

Post #1989 made 9 years ago
by paulymd3
cwier60 wrote:
paulymd3 wrote:Kettle - 8 gallon Megapot 1.2 from Northern Brewer. Just got it thus not sure about the evaporation rate, but hopefully will have some time to run a test.

Here's Jamils recipe for American Pale Ale with Caramel
paulymd3, I know you'll hate to hear this, but if you think you want to continue BIAB brewing and are not severely limited in space, you should consider contacting NB and seeing if you could return your 8 gallon pot and upgrade to 15 gallon. I see you're doing only 13L VIF at 1.052 OG; with this small pot, you could maybe do 20% more at this gravity for a full-volume boil. Otherwise, you'll always have to be adding water later to get to 5 gallons or higher gravity. I too made the mistake of first buying an 8G pot; I'm hanging on to it in case I want to make some smaller batches, but it has just sat in the garage for the last year while I have started BIAB brewing. 8G is sufficient for most 5G extract beers, but is severely limiting for BIAB, whose one drawback is that it takes a much larger single kettle.

That said, a quick overview looks like you did a good job with the Biabacus. I'd just delete the evaporation rate adjustment in sec X and use the default. That 1.2 pot should have a relatively low evaporation rate, but you need some history over several brews before making adjustments. That's not a lot of hops, but I would use a hopsock (bag) and enter 'Y' in cell K155 in sec G. You'll see that this has a small impact on your KFL in sec K (and thus other volumes prior to that).
Thanks for the input cwier60. As far as the pot size I did debate between an 8, 10, and 15 gallon but decided to go with the 8 as I really don't plan on doing any batches much larger than this and will also probably do some 2 gallon batches as well. Didn't want too much headspace for mashing. Thanks again!
Last edited by paulymd3 on 09 Oct 2014, 22:51, edited 6 times in total.

Post #1990 made 9 years ago
by Mad_Scientist
paulymd3 wrote:Hopefully trying my first BIAB Saturday with this recipe from Brewing Classic Styles and just wanted to verify I used the BIABacus correctly.

Kettle - 8 gallon Megapot 1.2 from Northern Brewer. Just got it thus not sure about the evaporation rate, but hopefully will have some time to run a test.

Here's Jamils recipe for American Pale Ale with Caramel

OG: 1.052
FG: 1.013
ADF: 74%
IBU: 40
Color: 7 SRM (13 EBC)
Alcohol: 5.1% ABV
Boil: 60 minutes
Pre-boil volume: 7 gallons
Pre-boil gravity: 1.044

Grains:
- American two-row 4.94kg (10.9lbs)
- Munich malt 340g (0.75lbs)
- Crystal 340g (0.75lbs), this is listed as steeping grains. I'm assuming with BIAB that converts to just mashing it?

Mash at 68 degress celcius

Hops:
Horizon 13% AA, 60 min
Columbus 14% AA, 10 min
Centennial 9% AA, 10 min
Columbus 14% AA, 0 min
Centennial 9% AA, 0 min

Yeast:
- Wyeast American Ale 1056

Fermentation and Carbonation (for completeness)
- Ferment @ 19 celcius
- Carbonate from 2.0-2.5 volumes

Any and all help greatly appreciated!!
Welcome to the forum! Well the weekend is before us, right?

I made one change to your file, it is based on this thread below;
http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... 175#p42360

I am also attaching an alternate file, it uses the the same total grain bill (percentages and weight).
It is based on a 90 mins. boil and a 90 mins. mash times., and 14 L VIF (one more liter into fermentor)

Happy Brewing...

Your file with one change (mentioned above)
AmericanPaleCaramel.xls
My file
American Pale Caramel - MS(1).xls
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Last edited by Mad_Scientist on 11 Oct 2014, 04:16, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #1991 made 9 years ago
by paulymd3
Thanks Mad_Scientist! Unfortunately my pot is not arriving until Tuesday (thus no weekend brewing). Although that does give me more time to consider the 90 minute boil and mash...

Also - I see you adjusted the hop addition times. Still starting with the horizon at 60 minutes, but then the other centennial and columbus additions at 12 minutes, then again followed at 10 minutes? Could you explain that a little further? I'm assuming it has something to do with the 90 minute boil.

Post #1992 made 9 years ago
by Mad_Scientist
paulymd3 wrote:Thanks Mad_Scientist! Unfortunately my pot is not arriving until Tuesday (thus no weekend brewing). Although that does give me more time to consider the 90 minute boil and mash...

Also - I see you adjusted the hop addition times. Still starting with the horizon at 60 minutes, but then the other centennial and columbus additions at 12 minutes, then again followed at 10 minutes? Could you explain that a little further? I'm assuming it has something to do with the 90 minute boil.
I saw your entry for an immersion chiller, so I thought to myself, at what time were you going to start chilling?

The hops listed in Section D with the asterisks are the 0 mins. hops, but calculated at 12 mins.

In section I, I said "* = 0 mins. actual flame out addition. (12 mins. is for bittering calculation. Use main bag as hop sock, pull and squeeze after 15 mins. of 89-100C = 192-212F hop steep.)"

Other options are listed in this article; https://byo.com/component/k2/item/2808-hop-stands" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

It's your option, so, just for repeatable results in a recipe, you can ask yourself, when did I stop the isomerization. In Section G, you would enter "when you employed the chiller in minutes".
Last edited by Mad_Scientist on 14 Oct 2014, 03:51, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #1993 made 9 years ago
by Dazzbrew
PistolPatch wrote:
As for knowing the 6.0 gallons for that recipe, there is actually not enough info in the recipe to deduce it. How I did know is that the authors, Jamil Zainasheff and John Palmer actually explain the volumes they use in their recipes in the book Brewing Classic Styles.

In most published recipes on the net, you nearly always have to guess the VAW which is a very poor state of affairs. There's more info on this in the stickied threads of this forum that contain the word 'integrity'. Basically a lot of critical info is missing from mots recipes and often when info is made available, it is undefined.

:peace:
PP

Hey Pat i have been wondering about this also after reading Brewing Classic Styles (ref pg 41 wort boiling) and listening to heaps of Jamil Show, Can You Brew It & Brewing with Style podcasts where the foremat is always the same;
6g at the end of the boil, 5&1/2g into the fermenter, 5g into packaging.
But couldn't that mean 6 gallons at flame out (VFO) not VAW?
Dazz.
Last edited by Dazzbrew on 15 Oct 2014, 16:22, edited 6 times in total.

Post #1994 made 9 years ago
by PistolPatch
You are absolutely correct Dazz. It could be either VFO or VAW. Without asking them, we have to guess. On this site we actually assume that they mean VAW because this favours using more hops rather than less and this seems to fit in with many 'test runs' that have been done. But...

The biggest problem with the BCS recipes is that many, if not all, are based on extract recipes as far as I can tell. This means that the all-gain versions are abstractions. And when an all-grain recipe is abstracted from an extract, there are many problems...

I can't go into it in detail now but a lot of software incorrectly tells you to use less hops in an all-grain recipe whereas the reverse is true. My best guess atm is what is written here.

:peace:
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 15 Oct 2014, 19:35, edited 6 times in total.
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Post #1996 made 9 years ago
by Gazkilla
Hi, I'm looking at doing a Maxi Biab with my 70L pot.Never done a Maxi Biab before,so I'm looking for advice
Below is the recipe for a 23l batch,so ideally I want to double it but my pot will only take a 40L batch with the grain in.
So I'm looking at adding 6L at some point. Would you just double up on all ingredients,or add more?





Brewer: Moi
Style:
Source Recipe Link:
ABV: 5.3% (assumes any priming sugar used is diluted.)

Original Gravity (OG): 1.055
IBU's (Tinseth): 26.4
Bitterness to Gravity Ratio: 0.48
Colour: 22.9 EBC = 11.6 SRM

Kettle Efficiency (as in EIB and EAW): 83.8 %
Efficiency into Fermentor (EIF): 71.9 %

Note: This is a Pure BIAB (Full Volume Mash)

Times and Temperatures

Mash: 90 mins at 66 C = 150.8 F
Boil: 90 min
Ferment: 14 days at 18 C = 64.4 F

Volumes & Gravities
(Note that VAW below is the Volume at Flame-Out (VFO) less shrinkage.)
The, "Clear Brewing Terminology," thread at http://www.biabrewer.info/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Total Water Needed (TWN): 41.87 L = 11.06 G
Volume into Boil (VIB): 38.12 L = 10.07 G @ 1.04
Volume of Ambient Wort (VAW): 26.83 L = 7.09 G @ 1.055
Volume into Fermentor (VIF): 23 L = 6.08 G @ 1.055
Volume into Packaging (VIP): 21.3 L = 5.63 G @ 1.014 assuming apparent attenuation of 75 %

The Grain Bill (Also includes extracts, sugars and adjuncts)

Note: If extracts, sugars or adjuncts are not followed by an exclamation mark, go to http://www.biabrewer.info" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; (needs link)

87.9% Maris Otter (5.9 EBC = 3 SRM) 5221 grams = 11.51 pounds
6.5% Amber Malt (43.3 EBC = 22 SRM) 389 grams = 0.86 pounds
5.6% Caramel/Crystal malt (236.4 EBC = 120 SRM) 333 grams = 0.73 pounds

The Hop Bill (Based on Tinseth Formula)

12.7 IBU Challenger Flowers (7.5%AA) 20 grams = 0.679 ounces at 90 mins
5.3 IBU Fuggles Flowers (4.5%AA) 15 grams = 1.018 ounces at 30 mins
3.6 IBU First Gold Flowers (7.5%AA) 20 grams = 0.339 ounces at 10 mins
1.8 IBU Fuggles Flowers (4.5%AA) 16 grams = 0.339 ounces at 10 mins
2.9 IBU Challenger Flowers (7.5%AA) 15 grams = 0.339 ounces at 10 mins




Mash Steps

Mash Type: Pure BIAB (Full-Volume Mash): Saccharifiaction for 90 mins at 66 C = 150.8 F

#VALUE!




Mashout for for 10 mins at 76 C = 168.8 F




Miscellaneous Ingredients








Chilling & Hop Management Methods

Hopsock Used: n

Chilling Method: copperringed chiller (Employed 0 mins after boil end.)

Fermentation & Conditioning

Fermentation: Nottingham for 14 days at 18 C = 64.4 F









Special Instructions/Notes on this Beer
Last edited by Gazkilla on 21 Oct 2014, 03:10, edited 6 times in total.

Post #1997 made 9 years ago
by joshua
Gazkilla, this looks like you have entered this Recipe in to BIABACUS.

Could you Post the .XLS version???

We can help you set up the MAXI-BIAB in that Program.
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Post #1999 made 9 years ago
by joshua
GadKilla, the program look good, I change the VIF to 46 Liter.

You would be just under 5Liters more than your Kettle.

I would leave 10L or about 2.6 gallons out of the Mash.

Mash for At Least 90mins, Squeeze the Hot Bag, put it into another 5 gallon Container(fermenter Bucket), and add the 2.6 gallons to the Bag.

Wait 5 minutes, and Drain the Container and squeeze the grain Bag, back into the Kettle, and Move on the the Boil.

IMHO......
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Post #2000 made 9 years ago
by Rick
That file does look really good, a couple things.

If you change Sec. B's "desired volume into fermenter" to 20.82L ... your grain bill will match perfectly on both sides of Section C. This may be a coincidence, but I'm thinking the original recipe could mean 23L VAW, and not VIF as you have entered.

Which begs the question, Section D "original recipe VAW", we have to be sure if that is correct. Do you have a recipe source we can look at?

My gut tells me that your desired VIF needs to be 41.64L (double the 20.82L). Original VAW needs to be 24.29L, and then as Joshua stated use section W's water added before boil to withhhold 10L.

Gotta run for now, but I can explain any or all of that when I get back.
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