OK, new BIAB here. After many years as a extract and partial mash brewer, time to step up to BIAB. My goal is to brew 10 gallon batches and split into two 5 gallon no-chill cubes. I have a 48 gallon kettle 20" ID and 36" tall. I was thinking on using a stainless chugger pump for transfer and to circulate mash water to help maintain uniform mash temperature. I don't think heating will be a problem but will try with water first. lifting the grain bag I can do too. Now before we even consider recipes what do you see as my first set problems.
Thanks for the help.
Post #2 made 12 years ago
Welcome to the forum nevets 
,
I started my post here with, "I am short on time now..." and since then somehow just lost my whole post. So. I am even shorter on time now
Forget the pump. Here's why...
BIAB is actually the easiest all-grain method to create an even temperature throughout the entire grain bed. But, firstly, there is no proof that having an even temp through the entire grain bed is a good thing.
[SIDELINE: One member here used to brew traditionally with three vessels, pumps etc etc. He spent hours and hours building the susten and from memory it cost him three or four thousand dollars. Now he BIAB's in an electric urn because he finds it easier and he also thinks it brews a superior beer.]
To maintain an even temp n the entire grain bed in BIAB is super simple. You just give it an occasional stir, check the temp and apply heat and stir if necessary.
If you want to automate then go the whole hog. A single pump will just cause you more cleaning and problems. It certainly won't save time. And, even if do want to fully automate, doing twenty or thirty "hands on" brews will only help you come up with something excellent.
...
One more thought. There are many, many more important areas (and time/labour-draining areas) in making beer than "sweet liquor" production. Forums etc put this great emphasis on the making of the sweet liquor (a term you will only hear here btw). That emphasis is massively misplaced though.
For example, is starting off with a crappy recipe less or more important than controlling mash temp within two three degrees?
So nevets, don't get seduced by shiny brew stuff. I have a heap here if you want it. Spend time on knowledge not money on equipment would be my best advice.
So relax and keep it simple
,
PP
,I started my post here with, "I am short on time now..." and since then somehow just lost my whole post. So. I am even shorter on time now
Forget the pump. Here's why...
BIAB is actually the easiest all-grain method to create an even temperature throughout the entire grain bed. But, firstly, there is no proof that having an even temp through the entire grain bed is a good thing.
[SIDELINE: One member here used to brew traditionally with three vessels, pumps etc etc. He spent hours and hours building the susten and from memory it cost him three or four thousand dollars. Now he BIAB's in an electric urn because he finds it easier and he also thinks it brews a superior beer.]
To maintain an even temp n the entire grain bed in BIAB is super simple. You just give it an occasional stir, check the temp and apply heat and stir if necessary.
If you want to automate then go the whole hog. A single pump will just cause you more cleaning and problems. It certainly won't save time. And, even if do want to fully automate, doing twenty or thirty "hands on" brews will only help you come up with something excellent.
...
One more thought. There are many, many more important areas (and time/labour-draining areas) in making beer than "sweet liquor" production. Forums etc put this great emphasis on the making of the sweet liquor (a term you will only hear here btw). That emphasis is massively misplaced though.
For example, is starting off with a crappy recipe less or more important than controlling mash temp within two three degrees?
So nevets, don't get seduced by shiny brew stuff. I have a heap here if you want it. Spend time on knowledge not money on equipment would be my best advice.
So relax and keep it simple
,PP
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Post #3 made 12 years ago
Pistol Patch, your points and advise are well taken. Thank you so much. what feedback can you give regarding my 48 gallon brew kettle for brewing 10 gallon batches and splitting into two no-chill cubes. is this something that I can effectively do? it would seem a little odd to try to brew a 5 gallon batch in such a large vessel. Again my kettle measures 20" ID by 36" tall.
Thanks
Thanks
Post #4 made 12 years ago
WOW Nevets - 48 Gallons! that's 185L in modern money!!
As a very quick and rough guide for full volume BIAB with an average gravity brew, the amount of beer you can make is about half your kettle volume.
You could get away with more, but you will have no problems making 10 Gallons out of 48 Gallon kettle.
BTW - Do you have any pics of it?
As a very quick and rough guide for full volume BIAB with an average gravity brew, the amount of beer you can make is about half your kettle volume.
You could get away with more, but you will have no problems making 10 Gallons out of 48 Gallon kettle.
BTW - Do you have any pics of it?
G B
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Great Britain
-
Post #5 made 12 years ago
Yes. I know that the kettle quite large but I got great buy on it used. When I say used I mean used and abused. I will be happy to share photos at some point. its not pretty but like I say. I got it on the cheap. I shouldn't have any boil overs 
Thanks for your replies.
Steven.
Thanks for your replies.Steven.
Post #6 made 12 years ago
I've been going for over 14 hours non-stop today nevets so this is my first post here today and it may be a lazy ramblenevets wrote:Pistol Patch, your points and advise are well taken. Thank you so much. what feedback can you give regarding my 48 gallon brew kettle for brewing 10 gallon batches and splitting into two no-chill cubes. is this something that I can effectively do? it would seem a little odd to try to brew a 5 gallon batch in such a large vessel. Again my kettle measures 20" ID by 36" tall.
Thanks
.48 Gallons = 180 Litres. WTF!!!! (Sorry mally, only just catching up with you.)
Okay, I can't reply here properly now but I would be looking at more than 10 gallon batches.
Post a pic and let us know if you have fellow local brewers. How are you going to heat the damn thing?
My goodness! Just when I thought I had seen every scenario there was
.In fact, this will be my only post here today.
Last edited by PistolPatch on 25 Feb 2014, 20:54, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #7 made 12 years ago
I will have to get some pictures and get them up this weekend. I was figuring on using my turkey burner as it works great for 5 gallon batches. Maybe I will try boiling 10 of 15 gallons of water just to see that it will also be fine here. So back to the batches of beer themselves. If I did ten gallon batches can I easily split them into fermenters or cubes? will the recipe change if I opt to only make a 5 gallon batch? Will the recipe change if opt to cube it or put into a fermenter? I don't know of to many other local brewers and the few that I've talked to are doing kits so I'm getting most of my information on forums like this one. I've yet to make my bag and figure out a way to keep it off the bottom of the kettle so I still have a ways to go. I have also looked at the Calculator and WoW that looks a bit complicated at least at first glance. I will most certainly need help in formulating a recipe. I like porters and ales most and my water is well suited for these types of beers. Thanks again for all your insight and replies.
Steven
Steven
Post #8 made 12 years ago
Seven,
Still short on time but I want to race through a few posts here and you are first off the bat.
In that kettle, you can comfortably brew 4 batches (say 25 L 'Volume into Ferementor (VIF)' per batch. The two big questions are...
1. Can you heat that much?
2. Do you want to brew that much of the same type of beer? (Consider asking some mates to brew with you.)
Your kettle shape is great in a way. It is tall and narrow. This means your evaporation rate would not be unreasonable for a double or quadruple batch. You will however find it very hard to use a ruler to measure volumes on double batches
.
I have two kettles and usually 'double batch' in each of them. I sometimes do it with a mate and we take a fermentor each from each kettle. If I'm on my own, I drain the first half or the kettle into a cube for fermenting later and then chill the rest for immediate fermenting.
So, lots of options for you and a few tricky things. Will, like many others though, enjoy seeing what you come up with here Seven.
PP
Still short on time but I want to race through a few posts here and you are first off the bat
.In that kettle, you can comfortably brew 4 batches (say 25 L 'Volume into Ferementor (VIF)' per batch. The two big questions are...
1. Can you heat that much?
2. Do you want to brew that much of the same type of beer? (Consider asking some mates to brew with you.)
Your kettle shape is great in a way. It is tall and narrow. This means your evaporation rate would not be unreasonable for a double or quadruple batch. You will however find it very hard to use a ruler to measure volumes on double batches
.I have two kettles and usually 'double batch' in each of them. I sometimes do it with a mate and we take a fermentor each from each kettle. If I'm on my own, I drain the first half or the kettle into a cube for fermenting later and then chill the rest for immediate fermenting.
So, lots of options for you and a few tricky things. Will, like many others though, enjoy seeing what you come up with here Seven.
PP
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Post #9 made 12 years ago
PP, thanks
It's good to know that I have plenty of options. Like you said though, first thing is to make sure that I can heat it. I think that I will dig it out this weekend and give it a try. It's winter here in NH. and a really cold one at that so if I am successful now, I will be good all year. I still need to make my bag and find a way to keep it off the bottom on the kettle. I am thinking of using a very large stainless bowl, drilling it full of holes, putting legs on it to suspend it off the floor. I will also use it to aid in lifting the bag out before the boil. Hopefully will get time to work on making the bag this weekend also with my wife's help, she's the seamstress and she has the voile just need to pick up some polyester webbing for the handles. so if the boil test goes well, it may be time to start think about a recipe. Like I said, I really like a nice amber ale or a robust porter and I have some ideas but will certainly need help plugging it all into the calculator. Thanks
Steven
It's good to know that I have plenty of options. Like you said though, first thing is to make sure that I can heat it. I think that I will dig it out this weekend and give it a try. It's winter here in NH. and a really cold one at that so if I am successful now, I will be good all year. I still need to make my bag and find a way to keep it off the bottom on the kettle. I am thinking of using a very large stainless bowl, drilling it full of holes, putting legs on it to suspend it off the floor. I will also use it to aid in lifting the bag out before the boil. Hopefully will get time to work on making the bag this weekend also with my wife's help, she's the seamstress and she has the voile just need to pick up some polyester webbing for the handles. so if the boil test goes well, it may be time to start think about a recipe. Like I said, I really like a nice amber ale or a robust porter and I have some ideas but will certainly need help plugging it all into the calculator. Thanks
Steven
Post #10 made 12 years ago
Just something to think about Nevets;
I have never applied heat during a mash, so don't think you have to keep your temp at exactly strike for 90 minutes. Obviously this comment is assuming you only lose a degree or 2.
For the handles I just used the excess voile rolled up to create a handle, and just sew it on in numerous rows for added strength.
I have never applied heat during a mash, so don't think you have to keep your temp at exactly strike for 90 minutes. Obviously this comment is assuming you only lose a degree or 2.
For the handles I just used the excess voile rolled up to create a handle, and just sew it on in numerous rows for added strength.
G B
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Great Britain
-
Post #11 made 12 years ago
Mally, thanks for the tip on the handles, I certainly will consider it. first big test is to see if I can reach boil. 5 gallons has not been a problem but it is a different kettle. we'll see this weekend and I will get some pics and post them here.
Thanks
Steven
Thanks
Steven
