I wanted to start this thread before I brew to increase the likelihood of success. I'm still in the process of assembling my ebiab system (from Brausupply). I have a few questions to start:
1. In Biabacus after I enter my kettle size (a 36QT Bayou Classic). It populates the kettle fill height and kettle head space....I understand this...but because my kettle has two heating elements do I need to adjust for this volume displacement or is it negligible at the size I'm hoping to brew VIF=3 gallons?
2. I was under the impression from another thread that I should calibrate my kettle with known water quantities and a ruler and enter this in Biabacus. Upon viewing the spreadsheet I see the field for u.height = volume and v.headspace=volume which I thought was the calibration data points but entering various numbers in here does not change the fill heights or headspace? I'm missing something here.
Thanks for the help
Post #2 made 9 years ago
Ninkas, your kettle Volumes depends on how you can Drain it.
If there is a Tap, How much is Left after draining?
If you Siphon, How much is left from the Trub?
The Elements, Unless they are Huge, are most likely Water heater style, Ultra Low Watt Density type.
It is easier to measure the small displacement, by dipping the Element in a smaller container and see the difference.
Two elements should be MUCH Less than a Pint of liquid.
In otherwords the element loss is MUCH less that Tap or Trub Loss
If there is a Tap, How much is Left after draining?
If you Siphon, How much is left from the Trub?
The Elements, Unless they are Huge, are most likely Water heater style, Ultra Low Watt Density type.
It is easier to measure the small displacement, by dipping the Element in a smaller container and see the difference.
Two elements should be MUCH Less than a Pint of liquid.
In otherwords the element loss is MUCH less that Tap or Trub Loss
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America
-
Greetings from a rookie....haven't brewed yet but have a few
Post #3 made 9 years ago
I wouldn't worry about adjusting for the volume of the heating elements, it won't make a major difference.
The fill heights and headspace calculations in BIABacus are auto populated based on the dimensions you have put in for your kettle. They will be accurate as long as your kettle isn't tapered. It will also make assumptions about losses through the brewing process that will be close enough for your first few brews.
The main losses are from grain absorbing water, evaporation during the boil and whatever you can't get out of the kettle at the end.
If you measure your volumes over a few brews you will figure out what these are for your system.
When starting out brewing seems very complicated but it is a fairly simple process and I can almost guarantee that you will be on top of it within 5-6 brews.
My advice for the first few brews is to keep the recipes simple and use some of the quality tried and true ones from this site, don't worry too much about hitting targets but measure and record everything. The most important thing is understanding your system and the only way to do that is brewing, on the downside that will mean you have to drink the beer you are making!
The fill heights and headspace calculations in BIABacus are auto populated based on the dimensions you have put in for your kettle. They will be accurate as long as your kettle isn't tapered. It will also make assumptions about losses through the brewing process that will be close enough for your first few brews.
The main losses are from grain absorbing water, evaporation during the boil and whatever you can't get out of the kettle at the end.
If you measure your volumes over a few brews you will figure out what these are for your system.
When starting out brewing seems very complicated but it is a fairly simple process and I can almost guarantee that you will be on top of it within 5-6 brews.
My advice for the first few brews is to keep the recipes simple and use some of the quality tried and true ones from this site, don't worry too much about hitting targets but measure and record everything. The most important thing is understanding your system and the only way to do that is brewing, on the downside that will mean you have to drink the beer you are making!
Post #4 made 9 years ago
Ok thanks for the replies!
So I won't factor in the volume of the heating elements.
Never thought about volume loss from the drainage spout! I just assumed I would drain out everything...wasn't sure what king debris there would be in the bottom. I suppose the solution is to determine the predicted volume left in the kettle after draining the wart via the spout. Should be easy to calculate....I'll just fill kettle until I determine the volume that is required for it to start draining via the spout (waste volume). I suppose I would use this "waste volume" and add it to the BIABacus VIF field to allow me to achieve my desired/actual VIF. In other words:
Desired/actual VIF=waste volume+BIABacus VIF
I'm going to be following the commentary on this site and the recipes therein until I get the hang of it. I think I'm close to brewing just have to do a dry run, figure out PID settings, etc...
So I won't factor in the volume of the heating elements.
Never thought about volume loss from the drainage spout! I just assumed I would drain out everything...wasn't sure what king debris there would be in the bottom. I suppose the solution is to determine the predicted volume left in the kettle after draining the wart via the spout. Should be easy to calculate....I'll just fill kettle until I determine the volume that is required for it to start draining via the spout (waste volume). I suppose I would use this "waste volume" and add it to the BIABacus VIF field to allow me to achieve my desired/actual VIF. In other words:
Desired/actual VIF=waste volume+BIABacus VIF
I'm going to be following the commentary on this site and the recipes therein until I get the hang of it. I think I'm close to brewing just have to do a dry run, figure out PID settings, etc...
Greetings from a rookie....haven't brewed yet but have a few
Post #5 made 9 years ago
There is normally plenty left on the kettle that you don't really want to transfer to the fermenter. It is a combination of clumped proteins that drop out of suspension during the boil and hop debris primarily.
Depending on the arrangement in side your urn you might be able to get a bit more wort out by either tilting the urn slightly forward or installing a pick up tube inside the kettle that draws from the bottom.
I wouldn't worry about either of these to begin with, just get a few brews in, get familiar with the process, measure and record everything and make some beer.
Did I see something about PIDs as well? Talk about making it hard for yourself! Good luck with that
Depending on the arrangement in side your urn you might be able to get a bit more wort out by either tilting the urn slightly forward or installing a pick up tube inside the kettle that draws from the bottom.
I wouldn't worry about either of these to begin with, just get a few brews in, get familiar with the process, measure and record everything and make some beer.
Did I see something about PIDs as well? Talk about making it hard for yourself! Good luck with that
Post #6 made 9 years ago
New question: The amarillo pale ale on this site calls for Safale - US-05 yeast...however it does not mention an amount. Can I assume one package 11.5 grams is correct (for a estimated 3 gallon VIF). Also does the method of pitching make a difference...i.e create a starter ala recommended in John Palmer's online guide or just sprinkle on top. Thanks again
Post #7 made 9 years ago
Ninkas1, Dry yeast is made to Sprinkle on the wort.
Some say Rehydrate for 10 minutes in Cooled, Boiled Water.
Some say Sprinkle.
Using a full Pack of Dry Yeast on a Half-sized Batch is Fine, Since you need to Have as many Yeasty's working as soon as Possible.
Use the instructions on the Packet of Yeast, is your Best advice.
Check http://www.fermentis.com/wp-content/upl ... A_US05.pdf
Good Luck.
Some say Rehydrate for 10 minutes in Cooled, Boiled Water.
Some say Sprinkle.
Using a full Pack of Dry Yeast on a Half-sized Batch is Fine, Since you need to Have as many Yeasty's working as soon as Possible.
Use the instructions on the Packet of Yeast, is your Best advice.
Check http://www.fermentis.com/wp-content/upl ... A_US05.pdf
Good Luck.
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America
-
Post #8 made 9 years ago
I am new to BIAB, and have had good results re-hydrating and making starters by using the processes outlined here:
Dry Yeast Re-Hydration: http://mikesbrewreview.com/how-to-rehydrate-yeast/
Liquid Yeast Starter: http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/homebrew-starter-tips
Jim
Dry Yeast Re-Hydration: http://mikesbrewreview.com/how-to-rehydrate-yeast/
Liquid Yeast Starter: http://www.whitelabs.com/beer/homebrew-starter-tips
Jim
Last edited by jeatmon on 14 Dec 2015, 03:36, edited 1 time in total.
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- From United States of America
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