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How to record bag drainings added to boil?

Post #1 made 12 years ago
by milligan
Today I did my 2nd BIAB and after lifting the bag and giving it a bit of a squeeze I popped it in a bucket over a strainer. Abut 10 mins later I took 382 mls of wort out of the bucket. I took a gravity reading o this and got 1.031 (temp adjusted). This was quite a bit higher than the wort after lifitng the bag at 1.022.

Anyway I added this back to the kettle as it was coming up to boil. Is this just added to the VIK number? "Water added during boil" in s.M doesn't really fit.

I also got another 220mls out of the bucket much later on and also added this. However, this was about 10 minutes before the end of the boil, which was cut short to 40 minutes from 60 due to life happening.

So does this ~600mls get added to the VIK?

Just to add, adding this 600mls to VIK brings my EIK and EOBE within 8 point (63, 71) rather than the 10 point they are currently different (61, 71) (another issues I'm trying to work out).
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Post #2 made 12 years ago
by PistolPatch
Hey there milligan,

Congratulations on getting your second one under your belt. Here's some notes...

1. Be very careful of single hydrometer readings, especially temperature-adjusted ones. Cool as close to ambient temperature before taking a reading and using temperature adjustment.

2. You need to make a cut off point of draining your bag at the time the boil begins. Adding wort during the boil is not a great practice. If you really want to keep that wort, boil it and save it for use as a yeast starter or something. So, yes, just add any last bit of wort you have just before the boil and then take your VIK (now Volume into Boil) measurement.

3. We'd need to see your file to figure out why your OG is so far out. In other words we need to see volume and gravity figures. For example, if you boiled with the lid on (which you shouldn't do) you end up with a high volume of low gravity at the end of the boil. So post your file up here and we'll take a look.

:peace:
PP
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Post #3 made 12 years ago
by milligan
Hey PP,
Thanks for the reply.

I have now started (since my last brew) drawing samples off and chucking them in the fridge to bring their temp down. They are generally within 5 points either side of the 20c required of my hydrometer.

I will set a cutoff for draining as you suggest. And I like the idea of using the rest as a starter. I guess there would be no problems using all the hydrometer samples in that starter too? I would feel better about that as otherwise those samples start to add up.

I have added my file here. The biggest reason for my OG being under may be that I am use home malted barley, so it is likely it is undermodified or over enzymatically destroyed. Also that I used my blender to destroy, ahh, "crush" my grain. I have been reading some of your other posts about undershooting OG, as well.

Just as an aside I have also picked up from here that I should be generally (best practice) mashing and boiling for 90 minutes each. I will start that from my next brew which I am super keen to do but my only 2 fermenters are occupied with these first 2 AG batches.
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Post #4 made 12 years ago
by PistolPatch
milligan, that is really impressive you are malting your own barley. I can't even begin to imagine what that is like to do :o.

On such small batches, measurements are really hard so trust your palate a lot more than your measurements.

You've done the BIABacus perfectly and I especially like your ? in style. I want to brew that beer myself even though I don't know what it is! Looks very subtle but very interesting.

Well done ;),
PP
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Post #5 made 12 years ago
by milligan
Hey PistolPatch,
I am stumbling my way through the malting. As this was my first batch using the house malt (said like "house burger" by Eddie Murphy in Raw) I am looking forward to seeing how it turns out. Part of the subtlety in the recipe was one employ the SMaSH concept to learn more about hops and to give me a better chance of tasting the malt.

Thanks for the great feedback.
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Post #6 made 12 years ago
by PistolPatch
Good on you milligan ;),

One other thing I forgot to mention is that al your hydrometer samples can go back in the boil and if you do more than one post-boil, if you are careful and are going to pitch straight away, they can go back in as well. But there is one more trick...

With that last gravity sample, if you can add a touch of yeast to it, you can leave the sample with the hydrometer beside the fermentor. Put some cover over it so crap doesn't fall in. THis then acts like a mini-fermentor. The pitching rate won't be the same but you will see the hydrometer sample go through high kausen etc and you will see when the final gravity stops. This can give you an indication of when your main fermentation is likely to be close to finishing.

;)
PP

P.S. Maybe just check through this list regarding your low kettle efficiency.
Last edited by PistolPatch on 09 Apr 2014, 12:16, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #7 made 12 years ago
by pat86
PistolPatch wrote: With that last gravity sample, if you can add a touch of yeast to it, you can leave the sample with the hydrometer beside the fermentor. Put some cover over it so crap doesn't fall in. THis then acts like a mini-fermentor. The pitching rate won't be the same but you will see the hydrometer sample go through high kausen etc and you will see when the final gravity stops. This can give you an indication of when your main fermentation is likely to be close to finishing.

;)
PP

P.S. Maybe just check through this list regarding your low kettle efficiency.
Like a fast ferment test?
Last edited by pat86 on 23 Apr 2014, 14:42, edited 1 time in total.

Post #8 made 12 years ago
by PistolPatch
Yep, except when I used to do this, I used to put it beside the fermentor rahter that ferment it at a higher temperature. This mant it would more closely follow the timing of the large batch.
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