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First EVER brew this week, can you check me battleplan?

Post #1 made 14 years ago
by nigel55555
Hi all,

I've never brewed a thing in my life but love ale and really keen to get into it. Love this forum, great work!

I've written myself some instructions for the brew day based on bits grabbed from this forum but would love you guys to look over it and let me know of any potential pitfalls or things I can improve upon. I'm a complete novice so please feel free to point out the very obvious!

Thanks all, really appreciate you're help.
Nigel

First brew plan for NRB's All Amarillo American Pale Ale for Mini BIAB

I have a 19L kettle

First thing: test all equipment.
Sterilize everything that is going to come into contact with the wart.

Prepare ingredients:

Mix together these grains:
Pale Ale Malt: 1,913 g
Munich: 383 g
CaraAmber: 194 g

Measure out these quantities of hops:
US Amarillo 12.6 g
US Amarillo 10.8 g
US Amarillo 8.5 g

Add 15L of water to the kettle

Apply maximum heat to it.

Heat the water to, "strike," temperature: 68°C.

Regularly stir the water and check the temperature while waiting for it to reach strike temperature.

As soon as your water has reached 68°C, slip your bag into the pot and secure it firmly around the rim of the pot.

Slowly pour in the container of mixed grain while gently stirring.

Pre-heat the 3 liters of remaining water then add it to the kettle in an attempt to maintain the required 65°C.

Stir again then remeasure the temperature. If the mash is slightly hot, just leave the lid off the pot until the mash reaches the desired temperature. If it is too cool, apply heat while continually stirring.

During the 90 minute mash stir occasionally and check the temperature, applying heat when necessary.

Don’t lift the lid off the pot or stirring too frequently as this will result in high heat loss.

Lift out the bag and allow it to drain into the kettle.

Take a sample, cool it and measure the Specific Gravity with the hydrometer Also measure the volume. Expect a Pre- Boil SG of low 1.040s.

Put the pot on the stove and turn up to high. Boil the wort but don’t allow it to boil over.

Skim off foamy scum off the top and discard.

Boil for 90 minutes, not ever covering the kettle entirely with the lid

Add 8.5 g of the hops 5 minutes into the boil
Add 10.8 g of the hops 20 minutes into the boil
Add 12.6 g of the hops 60 minutes into the boil

At the end of the boil take another gravity and volume reading to determine the efficiency at end of boil. It should be in the low- 1.050s

Turn off the gas, put the lid on the kettle and leave it on the stove for 15 minutes.

Place in a sink full of cold water to cool down. Each time the sink water gets hot, replace it with cold. Repeat until it gets to the pitching temperature of 18C

Don’t lift the lid off the kettle while it cools.

Once the wart hits 18 C empty the kettle into the fermenter through the sieve but stop pouring before all the break material pours though. Some break will get though but stop with about the last litre or so of thick muck remaining in the stockpot.

Sprinkle a pinch of yeast over the wart.

Seal the fermentor

Store for two weeks in the warm - What temperature should this be?
Store for two weeks in the cool - What temperature should this be?

Syphon the beer from the fermentor into the barrel. Allow to settle, drink and hopefully be pleasantly surprised!

Post #2 made 14 years ago
by shibolet
Nigel,
you not too far off ;)
some comments:
1. if you have a 19L kettle you won't be able to fit 15L of strike water + grain + 3L additional water.
2. always aim for a lower strike temp as it's easier to to correct the temp up than down.
3. your hop additions seem off. i think you misread the original instructions.
when it says:
Hop 1: US Amarillo - 8.9AA% - 30 IBUs - at 60 min
Hop 2: US Amarillo - 8.9AA% - 9 IBUs - at 20 min
Hop 3: US Amarillo - 8.9AA% - 4 IBUs - at 5 min
it means Hop1 at 60 minutes to end of boil, Hop2 at 20 minutes to end of boil and Hop3 at 5 minutes to end of boil.
4. what do you mean by "Sprinkle a pinch of yeast over the wart" :?
you must know the proper amount of yeast. do you know what type of yeast you have? what size packet?. also, i advocate re-hydrating the yeast. it makes for a better fermentation. but you can do with sprinkling for your first batch ;)

by the way, your grain is milled, isn't it?

good luck. and RDWHHB.
Last edited by shibolet on 17 Jul 2011, 20:21, edited 5 times in total.
Cube:
fermenter: Sourdough Spelt Ale, Classic Lambic, Oud Brune, Barrel Aged Belgian Dubbel
Kegs: Bob's Black IPA, Blanc Blond, Soda...
to be brewed:

Post #3 made 14 years ago
by nigel55555
Thanks so much for your help!

1) How do you suggest I change the quantities so everything fits? Reduce everything by 10 percent?
2) Will do
3) Thanks for that, obviously got it backwards!
4) In the recipe it just says: "Adjunct: 1 pinch yeast nutrient at 10 min" http://www.biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php ... p=641#p641
By re-hydrate do you just mean add a bit of water to the yeast?
I bought this yeast: "Safale S-04, English Ale" I can buy another if this isn't suitable?
5) Yes, I did buy milled grain, phew, thanks for checking though!

Post #4 made 14 years ago
by shibolet
i'm not sure about the quantities as i don't brew mini-BIAB. maybe someone else will jump in here.
Safale S-04 will do fine for this beer. the recipe does say: Yeast: US-56 (Safale US-05).
what you read refers to yeast nutrient not the actual yeast.
forget about the yeast nutrient.
you can sprinkle the whole packet (11 grams) of Safale S-04 onto your chilled wort.

whats the final volume of beer you plan to end up with?
Last edited by shibolet on 17 Jul 2011, 20:58, edited 5 times in total.
Cube:
fermenter: Sourdough Spelt Ale, Classic Lambic, Oud Brune, Barrel Aged Belgian Dubbel
Kegs: Bob's Black IPA, Blanc Blond, Soda...
to be brewed:

Post #6 made 14 years ago
by shibolet
OK than. i guess that is what the guide says. go with that.
Cube:
fermenter: Sourdough Spelt Ale, Classic Lambic, Oud Brune, Barrel Aged Belgian Dubbel
Kegs: Bob's Black IPA, Blanc Blond, Soda...
to be brewed:

Post #7 made 14 years ago
by nigel55555
Thanks again for your input.

I'm really keen to know anyone else's opinions on the potential overflow situation as I'm a bit concerned about it now!

Also, I'd love to get some more information on the fermentation of this brew. I'm planning 2 weeks in the cold then two weeks in the warm. Can anyone let me know if this is right and provide me with a bit more information regarding temperatures I want to be aiming for and the best ways to achieve them?

Also any other tips on making my first brew day trouble free would be brilliant.

Many thanks again,
Nigel

Post #8 made 14 years ago
by BrickBrewHaus
nigel55555 wrote:Sterilize everything that is going to come into contact with the wart.
You really only have to worry about sanitizing things that come into contact with the wort AFTER it is boiled/chilled (i.e., don't sanitize your boil kettle, just make sure it's clean).
nigel55555 wrote:Pre-heat the 3 liters of remaining water then add it to the kettle in an attempt to maintain the required 65°C.
You'll definitely overflow your kettle if you add these 3L. In fact, I would hold out 4L just to be safe. You can always add more water to top up the kettle at the beginning of the mash. Things would become tricky if you're adding the grain and realize you don't have enough room. After mashing, you can simply add the rest of the water (can bring it to a boil first if you want to bring your wort to a boil faster). Sure, you'll lose a bit of efficiency this way, but BIAB is efficient enough as is so losing a few points doesn't really matter.
nigel55555 wrote:Skim off foamy scum off the top and discard.
I wouldn't worry too much about this. You can if you want, but it won't hurt anything if you can't get it.
nigel55555 wrote:Store for two weeks in the warm - What temperature should this be?
Store for two weeks in the cool - What temperature should this be?
For your first beer, just worry about keeping it at ale fermenting temps, 20 C should do quite nicely. If you can get one, I'd recommend using a fermometer to monitor temps. Remember, during active fermentation the wort/beer will be WARMER than the ambient air. Your goal is to keep the wort/beer at ~20 C, not keep the fermenter in a 20 C room. Make sense?

Two weeks is just a general guideline that is given. It will be sufficient amount of time 90% of the time, but the other 10% will make your life hard. Fermentation is finished when the yeast say it's finished, not a rough timeline that your LHBS tells you. So, you need to take a gravity reading a few days after you stop seeing bubbles in your airlock, write it down. Then, a few days later take another gravity reading. If the two are the same then fermentation is complete. If the gravity dropped a little then your yeasties are still working. If you bottle now, then you risk over-carbonation and exploding bottles.
nigel55555 wrote:Syphon the beer from the fermentor into the barrel. Allow to settle, drink and hopefully be pleasantly surprised!
You might need to elaborate a little more on this. Are you kegging? If not, then there are a few details you're leaving out.

Good luck. Don't let all of the details scare you. It's really not that hard. By preparing as much as you have, everything will go all the smoother.
Last edited by BrickBrewHaus on 18 Jul 2011, 02:01, edited 5 times in total.

Post #9 made 14 years ago
by nigel55555
Thanks so much BrickBrewHaus! You've been such a help.

Like I say, I'm a complete novice so I have a couple of questions, hope you don't mind.

So you're suggesting I start by adding 14 liters of water initially then top up as I need to?
That's not a problem but will I have to adjust the recipe if I'm using less water? If so, any clues? That calculator looks complicated!

Thanks for your help with fermenting, very interesting. Should I have an airlock as I don't think I do! I have a fermenting bucket with a lid.

I'll look into getting a fermometer, your explanation makes perfect sense, many thanks.

So 20 C for just two weeks then take a hydrometer reading, leave it a couple of days then try again. If it's the same, I can keg it? That right?

I'm planning to keg my first brew, after I keg it and let it settle, is it good to drink?

Thanks again, much appreciated, can't wait to get started.

Post #10 made 14 years ago
by BrickBrewHaus
nigel55555 wrote:So you're suggesting I start by adding 14 liters of water initially then top up as I need to?
Yep. For your first brew I wouldn't worry about topping up (certainly can if you feel up to it but remember that adding water will change your mash temp unless your top up water is the same as your mash temp). Keep track of how much you COULD add and apply that to your next brew.
nigel55555 wrote:That's not a problem but will I have to adjust the recipe if I'm using less water? If so, any clues? That calculator looks complicated!
Nope, just stick with the recipe you've got worked up. Look at it this way, if you're adding water now or adding it later, makes no difference (mostly).
nigel55555 wrote:Thanks for your help with fermenting, very interesting. Should I have an airlock as I don't think I do! I have a fermenting bucket with a lid.
You don't NEED an airlock, it's probably the safest way to keep out nasties. Does your lid have a hole in it (~3-4 cm in diameter)? If not, you might run into problems if putting a solid lid on a bucket with fermenting yeast. Post more info on your ferm. bucket and lid.
nigel55555 wrote:So 20 C for just two weeks then take a hydrometer reading, leave it a couple of days then try again. If it's the same, I can keg it? That right?
Yep.
nigel55555 wrote:I'm planning to keg my first brew, after I keg it and let it settle, is it good to drink?
I only bottle right now, so I can't help a whole lot on this. But you've got the general idea.
Last edited by BrickBrewHaus on 18 Jul 2011, 04:30, edited 5 times in total.

Post #11 made 14 years ago
by nigel55555
BRILLIANT! Thanks so much you've been a massive help. One last thing then I promise to shut up and brew up.

When you said "if you're adding water now or adding it later, makes no difference (mostly)" I'm not sure what this means. Are you suggesting I add more water at some point after it leaves the kettle? Not sure about this bit.

Thanks again.

Post #12 made 14 years ago
by nigel55555
Regarding my fermentation bin; 15 ltr Fermenting Bin & Lid, 28 cm High, 32 cm Width. It's a pretty standard fermentation bin bought from a home-brew shop but I haven't received the bin yet so can't check for holes etc. Hope it's suitable!

Post #13 made 14 years ago
by BrickBrewHaus
nigel55555 wrote:When you said "if you're adding water now or adding it later, makes no difference (mostly)" I'm not sure what this means. Are you suggesting I add more water at some point after it leaves the kettle? Not sure about this bit.
Sorry, I guess that wasn't very clear. You were wondering if the recipe should be adjusted in any way. From what I can gather, you'll be using 18L of water for your mash. I suggested starting with 14L, since your kettle won't hold all 18L + grains, then adding the remaining 4L after you pull out the bag. I simply meant that it makes no difference if you start with the full 18L or go the route of 14L + 4L after the mash; in the end you've added 18L of water which is the important part. So there is no need to add more than 18L of water to your kettle.

Hope that clarifies. Certainly didn't mean to make things confusing :headhit:
nigel55555 wrote:Regarding my fermentation bin; 15 ltr Fermenting Bin & Lid, 28 cm High, 32 cm Width. It's a pretty standard fermentation bin bought from a home-brew shop but I haven't received the bin yet so can't check for holes etc. Hope it's suitable!
If it's advertised as a fermentation vessel then it should be OK. You just don't want a fermentation container of any sort that gives an air-tight seal; you need a way for the CO2 generated by the yeast to escape.
Last edited by BrickBrewHaus on 18 Jul 2011, 07:34, edited 5 times in total.

Post #14 made 14 years ago
by stux
I would put my bag in before I finish heating to strike temp otherwise the bag will cool down the water and you'll have to reheat ;)

I would suggest use your full mash water but scooping out a few L into a jug, put your grains in, stir etc, and then you can add back some of the strike water until your kettle is filled right to the rim, leave just enough space for the lid

When you pull the bag give it a good squeeze, or drain it for a while

Then top up your kettle to your Start of Boil Volume and start your boil


If you're using a pressure barrel, do you have C02, if not you will need to prime the barrel with sugar or dextrose(better)
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12

Post #15 made 14 years ago
by nigel55555
Fantastic stuff! I feel I'm really close to getting going with this now, just need my kit to arrive.

Stux, I haven't got the barrel yet as thought I'd have a couple of weeks to sort it so any tips about the best way to go would be much appreciated. Can you give a little more info on Priming the barrel? Sounds like a cheaper way to go than CO2. I'd love a bit of life to my beer, be great if it didn't come out entirely flat if possible.

Post #16 made 14 years ago
by stux
Well, not really :)

I believe using pressure barrels is a UK thing

I think you measure out your among of priming dextrose, add it to a cup of boiling water, stir, boil, cool then add to the barrel and mix. Don't know how much to use though

Most people bottle their first batches in australia
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12

Post #18 made 14 years ago
by stux
Hehe

I've looked into it a bit more. These pressure barrels basically allow you to carbonate and dispense from the same vessel. They have a pressure relief valve to.

You basically need to work out how much dextrose to use.

They also have the option of c02 cartridges. Rather than carbonating with c02 you want to prime the beer and replace the beer with c02 as you drink it. This will keep it fresh

For normal beer styles you use 70gm of dextrose in a keg, for English ales you probably want to use between 40-50g but that is a guess

Anyway, transfer your beer to the pressure barrel after a week or two in fermenter, boil up 40-50g of dextrose

(or white sugar if you can't get dextrose) in a cup of water, cool and add to your beer

Seal the barrel, perhaps using Vaseline or something on the lid seal as it's v important to be air tight

Leave for a week or so at warm temps then you can cellar

Pour a pint. :)

After you pour a pint you might want to give the barrel a small squirt of c02, this basically is to replace the beer you consumed which will stop your beer going flat

Real Ale at a pub is primed in a similar way, except in the pub the beer is replaced by air, and that will lead to staling in just a few days. This is not a problem if you finish the barrel in a day or two, like in a pub, but at home it might take you longer, which us where the c02 injector comes in
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12

Post #19 made 14 years ago
by nigel55555
Just want to thank everyone for their help! I planned for four hours...idiot...six later I have a lovely brew fermenting away. Couldn't have done it without your help! There's foamy bubbles so there's hope... Feel like this is the beginning of a long journey and couldn't be happier. Real ale in the pub tastes different now for some reason...hmmm.

Post #22 made 14 years ago
by shibolet
Good job Nigel.
you can try a wheat beer next . they're real easy (to brew and then to drink...)
Cube:
fermenter: Sourdough Spelt Ale, Classic Lambic, Oud Brune, Barrel Aged Belgian Dubbel
Kegs: Bob's Black IPA, Blanc Blond, Soda...
to be brewed:

Post #23 made 14 years ago
by stux
All recipes are for 19L kettles... they just need to be scaled :)

Seriously though. If you grab the Calculator off this site, you can enter the grain bill and hop bill of the original recipe into the Grain Bill and Hop Bill pages, and then you equipment details into the main page, and it will scale the recipe for you.
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12

Post #25 made 14 years ago
by BobBrews
Nigel55555,
It's normal for the foam to settle once the fermentation is done. 3 days and many fermentation's are done. Just let it alone to clear and all will be right with the world. three weeks in the primary? and then bottle or keg. If you want a secondary then move it there and wait some more!
tap 1 Raspberry wine
tap 2 Bourbon Barrel Porter
tap 3 Czech Pilsner
tap 4 Triple IPA 11% ABV
Pipeline: Mulled Cider 10% ABV

http://cheesestradamus.com/ Brewers challenge!
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America
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