Post #176 made 3 years ago
man once again, same beer, bacus predicted OG: 1.068 and got 1.077 doing a sparge. 60 min rest at 151*F then ramped up to 165*F over 15m, pulled bag and steeped in 165*F sparge water 15m, stirring, then pulled and drained the bag.

i will have to adjust the efficiency the next time to see if i can nail it on this beer. seems like the sparge is causing the high mash efficiency.
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Post #177 made 3 years ago
I've done multiple brews, from the same grain buckets, on the same recipe and finally hit the gravity, by using Section X adjust auto kettle efficiency by 9%.

PP has said that the BIABacus is SAFE and expect to dilute with water at pitching time. Also evaporation varies.

Entering 9% does bring you out of SAFE MODE some, so be aware of that.

MS
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Post #181 made 2 years ago
This old hand is stumbling today. I have a problem with the amount of wort lost to the grist. I cannot find the adjustment for it. The Biabacus is consistently 1 liter out on my VIB. Eg. It predicts 28 liters and I end up with 27. As I am aware of this I can allow for it but I would like to fix it. I knew how to do this when I was younger and using ancient versions.
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Post #182 made 2 years ago
Lylo if you got to Section 'X' "Adjust Volume lost from Lauter to:" and Adjust the L/KG by maybe 27/28 or 0.9642
Image
You did not Post your KG Grain weight

So if your set at 0.4L/KG, try .3857 L/KG.
Image


Or is it 28/27 times 0.4 equaling 0.4148
Image
Last edited by joshua on 12 Dec 2015, 03:47, edited 2 times in total.
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Post #185 made 2 years ago
Lylo, starting with 30.86L and ending with 28L is a loss of 2.86L. divided by 4.6Kg would have been 0.6217L/Kg loss.

You Batch was (30.86 - 27) equals 3.860L loss, and that would be 0.8391L/kg.

That number is High, Do you Squeeze the (*&*$% out of the Grains/Bag??? or let it sit for a while to drain???
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Post #186 made 2 years ago
Thanks Joshua, I am using a 20L Braumeister now (52 batches) but have always used the Biabacus for calculations. I do squeeze the malt pipe quite hard though. Much like my Biab days. Looking back at my notes I think I may have been a little sloppy with them over the last year. I think I will not panic and try to pay more attention to my numbers. Still making good beer tho. Even with sloppy records.
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Post #187 made 2 years ago
Lylo, I'm amazed that you are getting a consistent 27 versus 28. There is no way I could do that for many reasons...

1. If I had a face washer, using my bare hands, I could wring it fairly dry. Agreed?
2. If I had a bath towel, using my bare hands, I could wring it somewhat dry. Agreed?
3. If I had a beach towel (large bath towel), I couldn't wring it that dry. Agreed?

My point is that you should not be getting consistent results unless you are using the same towel on every brew. If you are getting that same discrepancy on every brew you do using the same "towel" then, it is a no-brainer - change your default in Section X.

Before you do so though, understand what, "Adjust Volume lost from Lauter to:" in Section X, actually means. If you don't understand it, either study it or just leave as is. It is the last measurement I would ever adjust.

So, study the logic of The BIABaiuus before changing anything ;).
PP
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Post #188 made 2 years ago
Of course it wasn't the exact amount every batch PP. I was aware of the problem and adjusting according to the grain bill. As I said before, I have narrowed down the problem and it is not your Biabacus casing it. No worries here, thanks.
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Post #189 made 2 years ago
You have me confused now old mate :think: :lol:. I was going off this post...
Lylo wrote:This old hand is stumbling today... The Biabacus is consistently 1 liter out on my VIB. Eg. It predicts 28 liters and I end up with 27.
Main thing though is, are you sorted now???

;)
Last edited by PistolPatch on 14 Dec 2015, 19:27, edited 2 times in total.
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Post #191 made 2 years ago
A local craft brewer has been good enough to publish a recipe for one of their brews.
I can get more details if I need them but I was wondering how to handle the Whirlpool hops from within the Biabacus?
I can work my way around their process okay but not sure how to calculate this area?


Blindman River Session Ale Clone:

OG: 11.2 °P FG: 3.1 °P ABV: 4.4% AA: 72-73% SRM: 4.5 IBU: 26

Grist:
Rahr 2 Row - 87%
Gambrinus Wheat - 5%
Briess Carapils - 5%
Briess C60 - 3%
Strike Water pH 5.7
Salts added to the mash to hit a final wort profile of:
Na: 25 ppm, Cl: 50 ppm, SO4: 250 ppm
Mash at 3.2 L/kg at the appropriate temperature for your system to hit 68 C; hold for 60 minutes
Expected final mash pH 5.2
Mash out to 76 C, recirculate until clear
Sparge Water pH 4.8 @ 78 C

Collect enough liquid to boil off at least 8% in a 90 min boil
Boil:
Irish Moss at 5 minutes left in the boil
At end of boil add equal amounts of Mosaic, Columbus and Chinook to reach 26 IBU in a 30 min whirlpool rest (assuming 12% utilization.)

At Blindman, they whirlpool for 10 min, then turn the pump off and let the trub settle for the remaining 20 min
.
End of Boil pH approx. 5.1

Cool wort, preferably to about 17-18 C (Blindman’s temp controller is set to 19 C.)
Pitch Wyeast’s 1028 London Ale (1 smack pack per 6 gal should be OK, but a starter is always beneficial.)
3 days after pitching, allow the fermenting beer to free rise as high as 22 C and hold for the remainder of the ferment (7 days total.)
At the end of day 7, cold crash. Final ferment pH 4.2
Day 9: Dry hop with 1g/L each of Mosaic, Columbus and Chinook.
Day 12: Scrub out the hops and use biofine clear A3. Post dry hop pH 4.3
Day 15: Package at 2.5 vol CO2.

Now, head out to Lacombe, stop in at Blindman Brewing, grab a few growlers and see how close you can come to cloning this incredibly tasty ale.

Happy Brewing!
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Post #194 made 2 years ago
Lylo wrote:I can get more details if I need them but I was wondering how to handle the Whirlpool hops from within the Biabacus?
Irish Moss at 5 minutes left in the boil
At end of boil add equal amounts of Mosaic, Columbus and Chinook to reach 26 IBU in a 30 min whirlpool rest (assuming 12% utilization.)
Nice to see the Irish Moss being added at 5 instead of 15 mins. We teach 5 mins here as well but then again....

It all boils down to (excuse the pun), what happens after the boil. Make sure you have read this. Your question Lylo is a perfect example of when you do need a lot more info from the original brewer.

It's very rare that you can get info from the original brewer and I think MS has given you a best guess course of action if you do not have any access to the original brewer. But, you do. And, I'd love you to because the instruction...

"At end of boil add equal amounts of Mosaic, Columbus and Chinook to reach 26 IBU in a 30 min whirlpool rest (assuming 12% utilization.)" makes no sense. The Rager, Garetz and Tinseth formulas all disagree with each other but, at flame-out,they all agree. They all, incorrectly, say that no IBU's are contributed if you add a hop at flame-out. So, their statement of 26 IBU's means they have done some major manipulations to existing formulas or have used laboratory tests which are of no use to us home brewers or, in fact, any other brewer.

What You Need to Find Out

You need to ask the brewer the following...

1. What was their Volume of Ambient Wort - the amount of wort they had after the boil once it was cooled.
2. Whilst we know they added equal weights of the final hops, we actually need to know what that individual or total weight was.
3. We also need to know the AA% of those hops.

It's Impossible to Answer Your Question Properly Until We Have the Above Info

Unfortunately, like nearly all recipes you come across, this recipe will make total sense to the brewer who made the beer but, it does not make any sense to the next brewer for reasons I have written on repeatedly, but that are very buried here at present.

There are lots of my early posts here that elaborate on this. Search my earliest posts for "batch size" "efficiency" "Garetz" "Myths" "Recipe Integrity" to get started.

Hard to understand that there is no universal language on brewing but it is also very important to realise that this site has founded the first one - study Clear Brewing Terminology.

Pass it on as much as you are able to please.

:peace:
PP
Last edited by PistolPatch on 19 Dec 2015, 21:07, edited 2 times in total.
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Post #195 made 2 years ago
PP, not trying to Argue,

But Humulone, thought to give a desirable "soft" bittering to the finished beer,

and Cohumulone, considered to add a harsh, unpleasant bitterness to beer,

Both will add their Oils to the Hop-stand until 158F/70C.

The 12% utilization is a good "Guess", as far as I can Figure

see viewtopic.php?f=150&t=2215 "Late Wort Hopping"
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Post #196 made 2 years ago
Since the shipping, handling and storage of hops is always an unknown, having the AA% of the brewers hops is fairly subjective, no? I have always felt that an average analysis by a supplier like HopUnion should be close enough. Try soaking some hop pellets in a glass of warm water for an hour and tell me there is no bitterness extracted.
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Post #197 made 2 years ago
Lylo, if you put a partial flower petal or a touch of a pellet, on your Tongue, it will be WHOA, BITTER!!!

But, to get it stuck to the Wort, you'll need Very Warm/hot Wort to do it.
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Post #199 made 2 years ago
Wow! It took me at least 30 minutes to write my last post in this thread but it looks like it got totally missed. Go figure :scratch:.

Lylo, I addressed what you said about soaking hops in warm water in my post. Definitely worth reading my post again I think as I pointed out the limitations of IBU formulas.

As for relying on Hop Union or anyone else's averages, often that is all you will have to rely on but if your hops are stored well (you shouldn't buy them from anyone who doesn't store them in a fridge and vacuum-packed) their AA% will pretty much stay as at harvest. Be aware though that...

Even in a single year, a harvest can vary in AA% significantly. A few years ago, a retailer here informed me that Hallertau of the same season had something like a 4% discrepancy (I think it was actually 6) depending on which region of Germany it had been grown.

...

In my post above I highlighted that you could contact the brewer and ask for the info I listed. It is very rare you have that opportunity so go for it. Any further posts here, until you speak to the brewer, are really only going to be posts that deflect from what has already been written.

Fair enough? Make sense?
PP

P.S. If you choose to contact the brewer, please let us know how you go ;).
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Post #200 made 2 years ago
Sorry PP I should have just submitted the question about whirlpool hops. I had a feeling you might jump all over that recipe.
These guys are a brand new brewery in a burgeoning craft beer marled here in Alberta. To have them, in their first few months, publish the recipe for their most popular beer , is fantastic.
Do you really think that I am going to go to them and tell them that Pat Hollingdale says "there is not enough information here to make a reasonable facsimile" and that their hops calculations are probably faulty, and that they should start using the BIABACUS?
Again sorry Pat it has been a good few years and I have learned a lot and had some good laughs, but I think I must join those who have gone before and sign of the forum.
Just too may lectures. :nup: :sad:
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