Mashout

Post #1 made 13 years ago
Gudday all,
My curiosity was sparked by the thread on pulling the bag, about whether or not you do a mashout step.
i.e. raise the temp at the end of the mash, hence the need to keep the grain off the bottom of the kettle while heating.

My question, or disussion topic, is, do you do a raised temp mashout? Why? or what benefit does it provide? How would/does it change the liquor/wort?

I do a very simple process, much like myself, of a single infusion mash, normally with strike 67C, mash 65C for 90 mins, then pull the bag and boil.

:think:

Thanks

Lemon
Last edited by Lemon on 26 Mar 2011, 05:44, edited 1 time in total.
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Post #2 made 13 years ago
It's debatable :blush:

Raising the mash to mash out is a bit like heating honey, it makes the sugars (fermentables) more viscous. Therefore allowing you to extract more sugars from the grain.
"It's beer Jim, but not as we know it."

Post #3 made 13 years ago
I did a Hochkurz mash schedule, 63C, then 70C, then 75C mashout on my last batch, and I liked it.

I learnt that its easier to NOT raise the bag as you heat up, because I couldn't get a good temperature reading with the bag up, as it is in the way!

So, for the mashout, I just stirred while heating... I have a 1cm high cake rack in the bottom, and this seems to have done the trick pefectly, and by mashout time, the mash is much thinner, which is the whole point of a mashout :)

don't forget to tie a string to teh cake rack and pull it out with the bag... or you won't be able to get a good whirlpool ;)
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12

Post #4 made 13 years ago
I'd just love to point out that I find it hilarious that a thread on someone's brew rig got offtopic and needed a thread about bag draining which got offtopic and needed a thread about mashouts! Just goes to show you that brewing is an endless course that one never truly masters.

I was reading on HBT earlier this month about some folk that do the 40min rest and then start heating up to mash-out for the last twenty minutes and preferred this way with BIAB. They claimed due to the fine crush they hit full conversion easily within 40 minutes (which is pretty attainable with standard brewing too) and were having over-attenuation problems with a full 60+min rest mash. I don't really see how that's possibly though unless they were dropping significant temperature degrees over the longer mash. Time is not so much of a factor in that regard as temperature is, correct? If at 155 F you're extracting certain unfermentable starches than I don't see how a longer mash would somehow turn those into fermentables.

Post #5 made 13 years ago
well, you should just be able to do an iodine test a 45 mins to decide if you want to go for the next 15 or 30 minutes... right?
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12

Post #6 made 13 years ago
Good point iijakii, I do a 90 minute mash followed by a 20 minute mashout.
Generally mashing a 64°c and losing 1° - 2°c over the 90 minutes.
Attenuation is always within a point or 2 of expected FG. So I'm not sure if they have their facts straight.
"It's beer Jim, but not as we know it."

Post #7 made 13 years ago
bit of an epic bump and I'm a noob so please be gentle.

Looking at doing my first BIAB this weekend and am reading up on it as much as I can. I too got diverted from the thread on lifting the bag to this one!

My understanding is that the mashout helps you to get the best out of the grains. Warming it up makes the sweet liquid thinner and you get more of the sugars out of the grains which in turn means you end up with a higher OG and more colour in the resultant wort.

That would mean the mashout increases my efficiency? I get more sugar out of my grain, so the benefit of the mashout would therefore be an increase of efficiency and a decrease (slight, I guess) in the grain bill required?

meaning too that it's easier to lift the bag by hand and costs a little less per brew to boot?

the cons of doing the mashout would therefore be that the grain bill is higher and it takes longer.

I think?

Post #8 made 13 years ago
JulieRush wrote:the cons of doing the mashout would therefore be that the grain bill is higher and it takes longer.
A Mash out should increase your efficiency so your grain bill will be less not higher. As per the calculator for every 1% increase in efficiency your grain bill is reduced by 70g at an OG of 1048. An OG of 1050 gives a reduction of 73g. :scratch: So from this the bigger the brew the bigger saving. However I think that (please correct me if wrong) as your brews get bigger your efficiency gets worse so this would cancel each other out.

As to taking longer :think: I've never looked at it that way but your right on that point, I suppose its up to the individual as to if this is a Con or not. Personally if I have the time I will Mash out.

:salute:

Y
Last edited by Yeasty on 25 Mar 2011, 07:40, edited 5 times in total.
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Post #9 made 13 years ago
JulieRush wrote:bit of an epic bump and I'm a noob so please be gentle.

Looking at doing my first BIAB this weekend and am reading up on it as much as I can. I too got diverted from the thread on lifting the bag to this one!

My understanding is that the mashout helps you to get the best out of the grains. Warming it up makes the sweet liquid thinner and you get more of the sugars out of the grains which in turn means you end up with a higher OG and more colour in the resultant wort.

That would mean the mashout increases my efficiency? I get more sugar out of my grain, so the benefit of the mashout would therefore be an increase of efficiency and a decrease (slight, I guess) in the grain bill required?
Technically no a mashout doesn't increase your mash efficiency... the mashout increases efficiency only by allowing the sugars to "slip away from the grain", so to speak. The saccharification rest has already liberated the starches and converted them to fermentable wort. The mashout does 2 things;
1. it denatures the enzymes at work in the mash, and
2. allows you to harvest those fermentables a tad easier. Effectively making your lautering more efficient, thus giving you a higher efficiency number into the kettle.
JulieRush wrote:meaning too that it's easier to lift the bag by hand and costs a little less per brew to boot?

the cons of doing the mashout would therefore be that the grain bill is higher and it takes longer.

I think?
The great thing about adding a mashout step to BIAB is that it doesn't take longer. It should take you the same amount of time as if you weren't doing a mashout. How you say? Well... in traditional systems a mashout is to denature enzymes and to assist in lautering (as above). The grain bed is raised to mashout temps, by infusion, direct heat decoction... whatever. With the grain bed being stirred to even out temps. The rest period at mashout is simply to allow the grain bed to settle again so that clear wort may be drawn out of the mash tun.

Now, with BIAB, lautering is as simple as pulling the bag out. You don't need to wait for the bed to settle. Mashing out with a BIAB bag can be done like this (assuming single vessel direct heat);
- adding heat to the mash tun while stirring the grain to get even temps,
- when the entire grain bed is at mashout temp (76C), pull the bag out,
- continue to apply heat to get to boil... no need to rest at mashout, cause you've denatured the enzymes and made the sugars "slippery" all on the way to the boil.

Takes same amount of time as if you'd pulled the bag at the end of sach rest and applied heat to get to boil.

Hope this helps... good luck with your first BIAB.
Last edited by argon5000 on 25 Mar 2011, 07:48, edited 5 times in total.

Post #10 made 13 years ago
cheers guys! I re-read and noted I got that tiny last bit wrong (mashout means lower bill not higher!)

got a lot to learn about the terminology and where it is applied :)

I think my first will involve a mashout step as it makes sense to me to harvest all the goodies that the mash has released form the grain.

I'll be taking plenty of notes and pics as I go. really looking forward to it!

Post #11 made 13 years ago
JulieRush wrote:got a lot to learn about the terminology and where it is applied :)
Don't worry about it, terminology is a tad confusing at times especially when it comes to "efficiency" :lol:
Last edited by Yeasty on 25 Mar 2011, 08:16, edited 5 times in total.
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Post #12 made 13 years ago
The other thing to be aware of is 78C wort is scalding temperature whereas 65C is merely hot
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12

Post #13 made 13 years ago
stux wrote:The other thing to be aware of is 78C wort is scalding temperature whereas 65C is merely hot
I suppose waiting for the bag to cool a bit before squeezing it would defeat the purpose.
Last edited by de5m0mike on 25 Mar 2011, 10:12, edited 5 times in total.

Post #14 made 13 years ago
Not really, the idea is the wort runs off easier, I wait for the bag to cool a bit first, but you need to be more careful as the core stays much hotter for longer
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12

Post #16 made 13 years ago
It does/would, but I hope most of fluid washes out when you first pull the bag :)
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12

Post #17 made 12 years ago
Hi Folks,

How do you go about doing a mashout with the electric URN?

I have a Crown with the concealed element.

I know if I leave the bag in while I apply heat it cuts out too soon.
Probably due to the temperature sensor at the bottom of the unit.

Should I lift the bag completely out, raise to 76C, kill the power, lower bag, stir grain and then remove bag again?
Or can I just leave the bag in the wort, just raised off the bottom, then remove and squeeze?

I have a chain and hook so I can do either quite easily.

Just not sure which is best! :interesting:

Cheers,

D!CKO
On Tap: ESB,Oatmeal Stout, APA
Primary: APA x 2
Cubed: Nowt

26/07/12

Post #18 made 12 years ago
I would raise the bag off the bottom or stir continuously while you are adding heat.

I think if you remove the bag completely you will have to get the liquor hotter to compensate for cooler grain.
Last edited by hashie on 15 Aug 2011, 14:03, edited 5 times in total.
"It's beer Jim, but not as we know it."

Post #19 made 12 years ago
hashie wrote:I would raise the bag off the bottom or stir continuously while you are adding heat.

I think if you remove the bag completely you will have to get the liquor hotter to compensate for cooler grain.
Makes sense! If I raise the bag off the bottom do I need to put it back in and stir the grains?
Or will the act of heating the grain bag be enough?

Thanks again!
Last edited by dicko on 15 Aug 2011, 14:53, edited 5 times in total.
On Tap: ESB,Oatmeal Stout, APA
Primary: APA x 2
Cubed: Nowt

26/07/12

Post #20 made 12 years ago
You will need to put it back in and stir once it is up to temp. Just to be sure you have the best chance of good extraction.

The length of time it needs to be done for is debatable. I leave mine in for 20 minutes because, that's what I do. Others believe once the temperature has been reached the work is done and the grains can come straight out. On this, I'd suggest do it for as long or short as you think and see how you go.

Happy brewing.
"It's beer Jim, but not as we know it."

Post #21 made 12 years ago
I have had a bit of trouble hitting mashout temps in the brews I have done. Initially I hoisted the bag out got the liquid to mashout temp and put the grain back in but for some reason I lost a huge ammount of heat once I stirred the grain and took a temp reading.

Another time I tried partially suspending the grain in the liquid and taking a reading from the liquid under the bag, had the same problem of low temperature once I lowered the bag and stirred.

After that I tried just taking a reading in the bag, but was a bit worried the liquid underneath would be getting to boiling while the bag was still fairly cool, ended up turning off the element dunking the bag back in, stirring and taking a reading then raising and heating again. This was a lot of mucking around and was hoping to figure out an easier method.

A cake rack is probably the go then I could stir while heating without worrying the bag will burn on the element. So far havent managed to find one to suite my urn.

Post #22 made 12 years ago
Good on you for having a go deebo.

There are probably many options available to you. A cake rack, false bottom, up-turned colander etc, etc.

Just find what works for you.
"It's beer Jim, but not as we know it."

Post #23 made 12 years ago
I have an exposed element is there a false bottom which can sit above this? (it it possible to connect them to urn taps?)

That would solve 2 problems in one (protecting bag from the element and also getting more wort and leaving break/hops etc behind)

Post #24 made 12 years ago
Is there a calc for doing a mashout via pulling the bag, heating the wort then dropping the bag back in and stirring to equalise the temps? I can ramp up the temp pretty quick (2 degs a minute or so), so the bag won't lose much heat hanging just above the surface. Do you reackon I could use one of the calcs in Beersmith to figure it out with any degree of accuracy?

Post #25 made 12 years ago
pimpsqueak wrote:Is there a calc for doing a mashout via pulling the bag, heating the wort then dropping the bag back in and stirring to equalise the temps? I can ramp up the temp pretty quick (2 degs a minute or so), so the bag won't lose much heat hanging just above the surface. Do you reackon I could use one of the calcs in Beersmith to figure it out with any degree of accuracy?
I don't think there is one. I assume the same calculation which is used for Strike Temp could be modified to work, but I don't think anyone has.

The first time I tried to do a mashout with the bag raise I found the bag cooled down so quick, that as I dropped it back in I virtually ended up back where I had started.

Ever since then I've just raised the temperature while agitating the mash, and easy solution and works really well.

I have a 1cm high cake rack in the bottom of the pot, and a 60cm long handled stainless steel potato masher. No need to raise the bag until you want to remove it.

I just agitate continuously while heating the mash
Last edited by stux on 30 Aug 2011, 11:58, edited 5 times in total.
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12
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