Strike Water Temperature

Post #1 made 13 years ago
I'm hoping to do my first BIAB within the next week or two. I plan to do a Pumpkin Ale from the HBT Forum:
http://www.homebrewtalk.com/f76/punkin-ale-145060/.

I remember many months ago while studying about BIAB that there was a formula for calculating the temp of the strike water that was dependent upon the volume of water and the amount of grain. I guess it also depended upon the ambient temp.

I've plugged numbers into the Biab calculator (actually, the Maxi-BIAB calculator I got from this forum), and I don't see anything about temps. There's something on one page of the calculator about the volume of water to add at 65*C, but I believe this recipe calls for mashing at a little bit higher than this.

BTW, I cut, polished, and added weldless fittings to a dented up keg that my son brought home from the bottle shop (given to him by his boss). I hope to inaugurate it with this brew.

Thanks,
Keith
Last edited by kzimmer0817 on 13 Sep 2012, 01:34, edited 2 times in total.

Post #2 made 13 years ago
Keith, are you going to be doing a 5 gallon batch in your converted keggle on the propane burner? If so, I would recommend the following (from experience):

Heat your water to +2 degrees F over your desired mash temp before adding your grain.

IMPORTANT! Monitor the heating closely and when you are 2 degrees F LESS than your desired strike temp, shut the heat off and stir well while monitoring the temp. I tell you this because you will find that even after you shut the heat off your water temp will continue to rise 2-3 degrees.

Then, drain a quart of water out of the ball valve into a pot and dump it back into the kettle (poor man's recirculation), do this several times. This will stabilize temp and eliminate stratification (BobBrews taught us this). Once your water has stabilized to 2-3 degrees F above your desired mash temp, dump your grain in, stir well, recirculate a few more quarts, and take another temp reading. You should be fairly close to your mash temp...if so, put the lid on, toss a blanket over the rig, and go take a nap for an hour or so. If not, fire up the burner and stir like crazy but remember to stop a couple of degrees shy of your mark (remember, the temp continues to rise slightly after shutting off the heat). Recirculate and stabilize until desired mash temp is obtained and then see previous advice about nap.

Remember, it is easy to fire up the heat and adjust the mash temp if you are too low but a real PITA to drop the mash temp is it's too high.

---Todd
WWBBD?
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America

Post #3 made 13 years ago
Thanks, Todd. The comment was made by a few brewers on that thread about their fermenters still bubbling even when they reach the target F.G. They say, "I mashed a bit low". I'm taking that to mean that mashing too low caused a greater amount of fermentables to be present. The O.P. called for a mash temp of 156 for plenty of body. Another who brewed that recipe using BIAB mashed at 158 because he "wanted a thicker body to go along with the higher ABV".

Thanks,
Keith

Post #4 made 13 years ago
Keith,Todd is right on with his approach to reaching mash temp.
Don't sweat hitting the exact mash temps too much,it will drive you crazy.Focus on the process and sanitation.Keep track of the temp that you actually did hit,this info may prove useful in further brews.
It is very hard to attribute any paticular taste or trait of your beer to any definite part of the process. Yeast,fermentation temps,carbonation etc can all have a great bearing on the final outcome of your beer..Have fun,good luck and looking forward to you exploits!
P.S.
I always like to refer new guys to this thread.
http://biabrewer.info/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=647
Last edited by Lylo on 13 Sep 2012, 05:59, edited 2 times in total.
AWOL
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