Just used my buffalo 40l boiler for first time today. I noticed that it was cutting out during the boil and cycling back on when it had cooled a little. There turned out to be a buildup of scorched 'stuff' on the element. I've 2 questions about this
1. Should I be overriding this cutout and how do I do that ?
2. Will this buildup screw up the flavour of me beer and how do I avoid it?
Thanks
L
Post #2 made 12 years ago
Not sure about question #1 because we don't have buffalo boilers available to us in the states although I believe I have seen threads here discussing the over-ride of the temp controller on those units. (search function is your friend)
As to question #2.....I can tell you that buildup of "scorched" stuff on the heating element in my electric brew kettle has ruined 2 batches of beer. Unless, of course, you like beer that tastes like an old ashtray!
I recommend cleaning that element; I scraped a majority of the "crust" off with a razor knife and then soaked it in oxyclean/water solution for a few hours and finished up with a scotchbrite pad. I now clean it after every brew session.
--Todd
As to question #2.....I can tell you that buildup of "scorched" stuff on the heating element in my electric brew kettle has ruined 2 batches of beer. Unless, of course, you like beer that tastes like an old ashtray!
I recommend cleaning that element; I scraped a majority of the "crust" off with a razor knife and then soaked it in oxyclean/water solution for a few hours and finished up with a scotchbrite pad. I now clean it after every brew session.
--Todd
WWBBD?
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- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America
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Post #3 made 12 years ago
For question 2, I got a build up of charred material but not as bad as what you got, going by the photo in your other post. In my case, there was no problem with the taste of the beer.
If you can remove the material during the boil (it's acting as an insulating layer) then you may not need to modify the cutout.
If you can remove the material during the boil (it's acting as an insulating layer) then you may not need to modify the cutout.
Post #4 made 11 years ago
I had this issue with my Crown urn. It has a covered/sealed element & the temp probe also has a small, removeable cover on it. I put a small stainless bowl over the temp probe prior to filling the urn & this a fixed that.
Post #5 made 11 years ago
Lars;
I have the same boiler (40L Buffalo). It has occasionally cut out on me during the boil but comes back on after a few minutes, and i have only ever noticed it do it once within the hour.
After every brew i clean the centre plate of the base so it is shiny again. Good advice from Todd (Thughes). Mild acids work well too. Though i find a kitchen sponge scourer pad and a little JIF/CIF is just as good.
See my post here. Picture 4 shows a small amount of stuck on material, which luckily hasn't burnt, but this needs to be cleaned every time.
If you are getting serious scorching, it may be your recipe that is the culprit? Or maybe even the bag? Is it more porous? Just thinking aloud.
I have the same boiler (40L Buffalo). It has occasionally cut out on me during the boil but comes back on after a few minutes, and i have only ever noticed it do it once within the hour.
After every brew i clean the centre plate of the base so it is shiny again. Good advice from Todd (Thughes). Mild acids work well too. Though i find a kitchen sponge scourer pad and a little JIF/CIF is just as good.
See my post here. Picture 4 shows a small amount of stuck on material, which luckily hasn't burnt, but this needs to be cleaned every time.
Do you have any pics to show how bad it is?but not as bad as what you got, going by the photo in your other post
If you are getting serious scorching, it may be your recipe that is the culprit? Or maybe even the bag? Is it more porous? Just thinking aloud.
Last edited by mally on 25 Jan 2013, 16:47, edited 3 times in total.
G B
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Great Britain
-
Post #6 made 11 years ago
Todd, how big an issue is this for you? Is "scorching" a big problem with a electric kettle? I plan on eventually doing a 4500W system. Should I be concerned?As to question #2.....I can tell you that buildup of "scorched" stuff on the heating element in my electric brew kettle has ruined 2 batches of beer. Unless, of course, you like beer that tastes like an old ashtray!
I recommend cleaning that element; I scraped a majority of the "crust" off with a razor knife and then soaked it in oxyclean/water solution for a few hours and finished up with a scotchbrite pad. I now clean it after every brew session.
trout
Last edited by 2trout on 26 Jan 2013, 00:52, edited 3 times in total.
"All I know is that the beer is good and people clamor for it. OK, it's free and that has something to do with it."
Bobbrews
Bobbrews
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- BME Brewer With Over 5 Brews From United States of America
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Post #7 made 11 years ago
It is not a problem at all so long as fluid remains in contact with the element. Actually, you can pretty much touch the element with your finger while it is submerged and powered on; it isn't hot enough to burn you immediately. BUT....if there is any air around the element, the portion exposed to the air will instantly heat to extremely high temperature and burn anything in the vicinity. Simply turning the element on in a pot full of wort will not scorch anything.
The problem I had was when I was attempting to recirculate the wort while I was mashing...if the grain bed compacts to tightly and the flow is restricted in ANY way, the pump continues to try and draw liquid which can create a void or air space in the vicinity of the element allowing it to get hot enough to scorch the wort. (Or that is my theory any way).
All I can say is don't bother trying to recirculate the wort and run the heat while mashing! Simply get things up to temp, mash in, throw a blanket over it, and go take a nap.
---Todd
The problem I had was when I was attempting to recirculate the wort while I was mashing...if the grain bed compacts to tightly and the flow is restricted in ANY way, the pump continues to try and draw liquid which can create a void or air space in the vicinity of the element allowing it to get hot enough to scorch the wort. (Or that is my theory any way).
All I can say is don't bother trying to recirculate the wort and run the heat while mashing! Simply get things up to temp, mash in, throw a blanket over it, and go take a nap.
---Todd
WWBBD?
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America
-
Post #8 made 11 years ago
Thanks!
"All I know is that the beer is good and people clamor for it. OK, it's free and that has something to do with it."
Bobbrews
Bobbrews
-
- BME Brewer With Over 5 Brews From United States of America
-
Post #9 made 11 years ago
Here is a thread on Jimsbeerkit that shows how bad the scorching can be on these boilers. Link
Last edited by mally on 26 Jan 2013, 05:42, edited 3 times in total.
G B
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Great Britain
-
Buffalo boiler cutting out during boil
Post #10 made 11 years ago
Hi Mally, can't find any old photos of it but it was quite bad although it never contributed to flavour that I noticed. Later discovered that part of my problem was caused by poor conversion and unconverted starches burning. I was using softened water with a really high ph and getting very poor efficiency. This never bothered me as i bulk buy grain until it was causing the scorching issue. Anyway I overrode the cutout and I now use treated ro water to brew. No more problems!mally wrote:Lars;
I have the same boiler (40L Buffalo). It has occasionally cut out on me during the boil but comes back on after a few minutes, and i have only ever noticed it do it once within the hour.
After every brew i clean the centre plate of the base so it is shiny again. Good advice from Todd (Thughes). Mild acids work well too. Though i find a kitchen sponge scourer pad and a little JIF/CIF is just as good.
See my post here. Picture 4 shows a small amount of stuck on material, which luckily hasn't burnt, but this needs to be cleaned every time.
Do you have any pics to show how bad it is?but not as bad as what you got, going by the photo in your other post
If you are getting serious scorching, it may be your recipe that is the culprit? Or maybe even the bag? Is it more porous? Just thinking aloud.
Very important: I clean and dry then squeeze lemon juice onto element, leave for an hour or so and I can rub it off with my finger. It's incredible the job that lemon juice does on this stuff!!!!!
Last edited by Lars on 26 Jan 2013, 06:26, edited 3 times in total.
Post #11 made 11 years ago
I use a small amount of CRS on my buffalo after I finish brewing, as it has a concealed element and a slight recess that holds about 1 teaspoon full of liquid.After about 1 minute all the residue is dissolved and then I clean the boiler as normal
Post #12 made 10 years ago
I use this boiler and had the issue of cutting out - that is why I started to use the the BIAB method. Simply using a bag with a pizza screen inside and tying the bag on the handles means it doesn't hit the bottom and scorch. When I spoke to Buffalo they said there might be a weight switch in the bottom (depending on age) which stops it being over filled, which would mean adding 5Kg of grain is going to stop you filling it full of water.
Still I don't have any issues (at least not recently) with this cheap boiler - it does the job, if only a little hard to get the temperature to hold correctly without going too high.
The only down side for me was that the tap connector doesn't exist - you have to replace it if you want to attach a hose - no big issue.
I have to be honest... I cant understand why commercial breweries aren't flocking to this method (slightly adapted of course) - it saves a load of leg work - especially if you had a 100Kg grain bill per boil - if not more!
Still I don't have any issues (at least not recently) with this cheap boiler - it does the job, if only a little hard to get the temperature to hold correctly without going too high.
The only down side for me was that the tap connector doesn't exist - you have to replace it if you want to attach a hose - no big issue.
I have to be honest... I cant understand why commercial breweries aren't flocking to this method (slightly adapted of course) - it saves a load of leg work - especially if you had a 100Kg grain bill per boil - if not more!
