Display posts from previous
Sort by

Frustrated with poor efficiency. Trying to improve.

Post #1 made 11 years ago
by damn
I feel like I'm chasing my tail here. I just trying to find the right figures for my equipment. I think, as you will read/see I'm getting poor efficiency. Attached is a fairly straightforward recipe in the aim to confirm my figures. From recent brew(s) I calculated my 50L Alum pot with a KegKing 2000 watt element to be 58% and from what I've read that's pretty poor? The last brew I did I aimed for 23.0l in the fermenter. I got 22.5. That's ok as I partially left the lid on for a more vigorous boil. I mashed for 90min @67c. Don't get me wrong I'm enjoying the beer I make I just want order the right amounts of grains & hops to achieve the numbers on others recipes.

I aimed for 1.053. Using a refractometer I got that reading at the end of the 60min boil. I did a "no chill" in a sealed container overnight. When I remeasured at 20c pouring into fermenter I got 1.050.

Attached is my recipe. http://aussiehomebrewer.com/gallery/ima ... fy-recipe/Things I tried this time around to improve efficiency are.

Checked my scales & thermometer against others I have.
Checked my volume measures.
Checked/calibrated my refractometer.
Did 90min mash instead of 60min.
Squeezed the shite out of the bag.
Double milled my grain.

According to calculations using Beersmith I have to drop this pot to 55%(brewhouse eff) to achieve the target OG.
Any input appreciated.

Damn.
Last edited by damn on 24 Jan 2014, 08:34, edited 1 time in total.

Post #2 made 11 years ago
by mally
damn - PistolPatch has done a great write up about efficiency stuff here.
Either read the whole topic or at least the post numbers #8 and #10.

One obvious question I would ask is have you tried using the BIABacus? Your problem may be due to a number of things, maybe even BeerSmith, but I know bugger all about BeerSmith so wouldn't want to comment.
If none of that helps you with your situation then I can only think that PP (PistolPatch) is the one to ask. :salute:
Last edited by mally on 24 Jan 2014, 16:21, edited 1 time in total.
G B
I spent lots of money on booze, birds and fast cars. The rest I squandered
I've stopped drinking, but only when I'm asleep
I ONCE gave up women and alcohol - it was the worst 20 minutes of my life
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Great Britain

Post #3 made 11 years ago
by Rick
^Great post above there, in addition here are some things I see ...


1. Read this in regard to double milling your grain.

2. I read in your AHB thread that you are not into water chem. High pH could lead to poor extraction. I suggest getting your water analyzed, and using a spreadsheet like Brun'water to at least try to predict what your mash pH will be. For this particular recipe, a pH that is too high is most likely the case.

Quote derived from here.
The pH of the mash influences a number of factors in brewing including; fermentability, color, clarity, and taste of the wort and beer. A slightly acidic mash pH of between 5.2 and 5.8 (measured at room-temperature) improves the enzymatic processes during mashing. The lower end of that range produces more fermentable wort and thinner body. The lower end of that range also produces better extraction efficiency, lighter color, better hot break formation, and the beer is less prone to form haze. Allowing the mash pH to fall below this lower boundary increases the potential to solubilize excess protein into the wort (De Clerck, 1957). The upper end of that range produces less fermentable wort and more body (Briggs et. al., 1981). Tailoring the mash pH helps a brewer create the wort character desired for the finished beer. In most cases, narrowing the target mash pH range to between 5.3 and 5.5 is recommended.
3. Your boil volume looks lower that what the BIABacus tells me, and I noticed you left your lid on partially for the boil. This may be the reason you used less water? Did you withhold any from the mash, or was it a full volume mash? This would also lead to reduced kettle efficiency, considering less water is needed to cover the evaporation rate.

Here is a good post explaining why more water is always better. With all the additional grain you are adding .. your kettle efficiency is dropping as a result.

4. I also assume you have some sort of false bottom protecting your bag from the heating element? This will compact the grain bed and could lead to poorer extraction as a result. My guess is that you know this much, but for completion sake ... figured it was worth a mention.
Last edited by Rick on 24 Jan 2014, 21:11, edited 1 time in total.
    • SVA Brewer With Over 20 Brews From United States of America

Post #4 made 11 years ago
by damn
Just an update for any others who go the same predictable frustrations as myself. Listened to PP on this podcast http://www.basicbrewing.com/index.php?page=radio April 24, 2014 - BIAB Legacy. Did the following.
Checked all my measuring equipment. Went back to a single mill of grain.
Squeezed every little corner of my bag till I considered it nearly dry. Increased to a 90 min mash.
My OG was way higher than expected.

Damn.

Post #5 made 11 years ago
by Nuff
PistolPatch and BobBrews will be pleased to see that their podcast had value. James Spencer of Basic Brewing Radio is also very appreciative of emails he recieves. Please pass on your exellent outcome to James as soon as you are able.

Thank you for reporting your findings damn,
Nuff

Post #6 made 11 years ago
by PistolPatch
Damn, thanks for the update and that's great to see things have come good. Bob taught me everything I know :).
If you have found the above or anything else of value on BIABrewer.info, consider supporting us by getting some BIPs!
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Australia
Post Reply

Return to “Electric BIAB”

Brewers Online

Brewers browsing this forum: No members and 20 guests