First BIAB on saturday (3 gallon Cascade APA) sanity check?

Post #1 made 10 years ago
I'm brewing my first BIAB batch of beer on saturday with a friend. I've brewed 1 gallon all grain batches of beer with brooklyn brew shop kits before (5th gallon is fermenting now).

My equipment:
http://www.amazon.com/Bayou-Classic-130 ... B008G3PAXK
Purchased just the bottling bucket and fermenter bucket from http://www.etsy.com/listing/124578054/u ... ome_active
Got a 26" x 26" LD Carlson nylon brew bag from my LHBS. Fits just right in my kettle!

I hope I used the BIABacus right. The numbers seem to make sense. I used the Amarillo APA recipe as a guide, but decided to substitute Cascade hops instead, and I also plugged in my kettle dimensions to get my water calculations.

How does this report look to you? Also, are there any tips for my first brew day? Going to be brewing on the stove top.
I noticed the longest hop addition is 60 minutes, but the boil is 90 minutes. So no hops for the first 30 minutes? Is this normal?

[center]BIABacus Pre-Release 1.3 RECIPE REPORT[/center]
[center]BIAB Recipe Designer, Calculator and Scaler.[/center]
[center](Please visit http://www.biabrewer.info" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for the latest version.)[/center]
[center]Cascade APA - Batch 1[/center]

Recipe Overview

Brewer: Ian Anderson
Style: APA
Source Recipe Link:

Original Gravity (OG): 1.062
IBU's (Tinseth): 46
Bitterness to Gravity Ratio: 0.74
Colour: 18.7 EBC = 9.5 SRM
ABV%: 5.6

Efficiency into Kettle (EIK): 81.3 %
Efficiency into Fermentor (EIF): 69.7 %

Note: This is a Pure BIAB (Full Volume Mash)

Times and Temperatures

Mash: 90 mins at 66 C = 150.8 F
Boil: 90 min
Ferment: 10 days at 17 C = 62.6 F

Volumes & Gravities

Total Water Needed (TWN): 19.9 L = 5.26 G
Volume into Kettle (VIK): 18.47 L = 4.88 G @ 1.046
End of Boil Volume - Ambient (EOBV-A): 13.25 L = 3.5 G @ 1.062
Volume into Fermentor (VIF): 11.36 L = 3 G @ 1.062
Volume into Packaging (VIP): 10.52 L = 2.78 G @ 1.019 assuming apparent attenuation of 70 %

The Grain Bill (Also includes extracts, sugars and adjuncts)

Note: If extracts, sugars or adjuncts are not followed by an exclamation mark, go to http://www.biabrewer.info" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; (needs link)

76.9% Maris Otter (4.7 EBC = 2.4 SRM) 2626 grams = 5.79 pounds
15.4% Munich 1 (17.7 EBC = 9 SRM) 525 grams = 1.16 pounds
7.7% Amber (94.6 EBC = 48 SRM) 263 grams = 0.58 pounds






The Hop Bill (Based on Tinseth Formula)

22.3 IBU Cascade Pellets (7.1%AA) 18.3 grams = 0.645 ounces at 60 mins
17.3 IBU Cascade Pellets (7.1%AA) 23.4 grams = 0.824 ounces at 20 mins
6.4 IBU Cascade Pellets (7.1%AA) 26.4 grams = 0.931 ounces at 5 mins






Mash Steps

Mash Type: Pure BIAB (Full Volume Mash) for 90 mins at 66 C = 150.8 F





Mashout for for 1 mins at 78 C = 172.4 F




Miscellaneous Ingredients

1/2 Tab Whirfloc (Boil) 5 Mins - Clarity






Chilling & Hop Management Methods

Hopsock Used: N

Chilling Method: Sink with ice bath (Employed 0 mins after boil end.)

Fermentation& Conditioning

Fermention: Safale US-05 for 10 days at 17 C = 62.6 F




Req. Volumes of CO2: 2.5
Serving Temp: 6 C = 42.8 F
Condition for 7 days.
Consume within 6 months.

Special Instructions/Notes on this Beer
Last edited by iancanderson on 09 Jan 2014, 11:15, edited 2 times in total.

Post #2 made 10 years ago
Welcome to the forum Ian and good luck for Saturday :luck:.

Your report above looks great. Nice job ;).

With your bittering hops, what I do is add them at 75 mins. This gives 15 minutes for the boil to settle down. There's not really that much difference in utilisation between 60 and , 75 and 90 minutes so don't get too worried about it.

If you can get everything set up the day or night before, that will tend to make your brew day go a lot easier. The only worry you might have is getting a strong enough boil going on your stove top. If you have any problems, try floating a stainless steel bowl on top of the wort.

Have fun :party:,
PP
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Post #4 made 10 years ago
Hi again Ian :peace:,

A couple of things here...

Increasing the VIF will not change your OG or bitterness in The BIABacus. The amounts of grain and hops you will use in your brew are on the right hand side of Sections C and D. See how when you alter your VIF, the amounts on the right change?

The logic of the BIABacus is thht you tell it what you want. If you want an OG of 1.050, you tyope that into Section B and the then use the quantities on the right hand side of Section C. For bitterness, just type in the IBU's you want on the second line of Section D.

So, absolutely no need to alter your VIF.

...

As for floating a bowl, this has a similiar effect to putting a lid completely on a saucepan. You know if you have a very gentle simmer going in a saucepan and then put the lid fully on, suddenly everything boils over. The reason is the pressure has increased. When you float a bowl, the pressure increases underneath the bowl creating bubbles. This can only escape via the remaining surface area. Basically, it gets things jumping around.

;)
PP

[On the road atm so I'm going to be very erratic in the time I have available to spend here in the next three or so weeks. Hope the above is enough info for you.]
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First BIAB on saturday (3 gallon Cascade APA) sanity check?

Post #5 made 10 years ago
Thanks again!

I should've been more clear when I said increasing the VIF. I had already purchased my hops and grain, then decided to lower the OG and IBU's a bit. I tweaked them in combination with increasing my VIF so that the resulting amounts of grain and hops would reflect what I already have bought.

Reverse engineering FTW!


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Last edited by iancanderson on 10 Jan 2014, 21:18, edited 2 times in total.

Post #6 made 10 years ago
How was Brewday?

Let us hear all about it!

trout
"All I know is that the beer is good and people clamor for it. OK, it's free and that has something to do with it."
Bobbrews
    • BME Brewer With Over 5 Brews From United States of America

Post #7 made 10 years ago
2trout wrote:How was Brewday?

Let us hear all about it!

trout
The brewday went well! I'll post again with a more detailed report.

Here's the most recent version of the report for the recipe I used:

[center]BIABacus Pre-Release 1.3 RECIPE REPORT[/center]
[center]BIAB Recipe Designer, Calculator and Scaler.[/center]
[center](Please visit http://www.biabrewer.info" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; for the latest version.)[/center]
[center]Cascade APA - Batch 1[/center]

Recipe Overview

Brewer: Ian Anderson
Style: APA
Source Recipe Link:

Original Gravity (OG): 1.06
IBU's (Tinseth): 45
Bitterness to Gravity Ratio: 0.75
Colour: 18.2 EBC = 9.3 SRM
ABV%: 5.42

Efficiency into Kettle (EIK): 81.7 %
Efficiency into Fermentor (EIF): 70.1 %

Note: This is a Pure BIAB (Full Volume Mash)

Times and Temperatures

Mash: 90 mins at 66 C = 150.8 F
Boil: 90 min
Ferment: 14 days at 17 C = 62.6 F

Volumes & Gravities

Total Water Needed (TWN): 20.41 L = 5.39 G
Volume into Kettle (VIK): 19 L = 5.02 G @ 1.045
End of Boil Volume - Ambient (EOBV-A): 13.77 L = 3.64 G @ 1.06
Volume into Fermentor (VIF): 11.8 L = 3.12 G @ 1.06
Volume into Packaging (VIP): 10.93 L = 2.89 G @ 1.018 assuming apparent attenuation of 70 %

The Grain Bill (Also includes extracts, sugars and adjuncts)

Note: If extracts, sugars or adjuncts are not followed by an exclamation mark, go to http://www.biabrewer.info" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; (needs link)

76.9% Maris Otter (4.7 EBC = 2.4 SRM) 2625 grams = 5.79 pounds
15.4% Munich 1 (17.7 EBC = 9 SRM) 525 grams = 1.16 pounds
7.7% Amber (94.6 EBC = 48 SRM) 262 grams = 0.58 pounds






The Hop Bill (Based on Tinseth Formula)

21.8 IBU Cascade Pellets (7.1%AA) 18.2 grams = 0.644 ounces at 60 mins
16.9 IBU Cascade Pellets (7.1%AA) 23.3 grams = 0.822 ounces at 20 mins
6.3 IBU Cascade Pellets (7.1%AA) 26.4 grams = 0.93 ounces at 5 mins






Mash Steps

Mash Type: Pure BIAB (Full Volume Mash) for 90 mins at 66 C = 150.8 F





Mashout for for 1 mins at 78 C = 172.4 F




Miscellaneous Ingredients

1/2 Tab Whirfloc (Boil) 5 Mins - Clarity






Chilling & Hop Management Methods

Hopsock Used: N

Chilling Method: Sink with ice bath (Employed 0 mins after boil end.)

Fermentation& Conditioning

Fermention: Safale US-05 for 14 days at 17 C = 62.6 F




Req. Volumes of CO2: 2.5
Serving Temp: 6 C = 42.8 F
Condition for 7 days.
Consume within 6 months.

Special Instructions/Notes on this Beer
Last edited by iancanderson on 12 Jan 2014, 22:51, edited 2 times in total.

Post #8 made 10 years ago
No pictures? Congrats on the first BIAB brew.

I have to ask....is this a hobby that you picked up to keep yourself busy when you're not out touring with the band?

---Todd
WWBBD?
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America

Post #9 made 10 years ago
thughes - I'll get some photos up soon. And no, I didn't brew this beer with a flute on my mouth standing on one leg :peace:

The brew day was pretty easy - I think BIAB will be my method of choice going forward.. :thumbs:

My volume into kettle was a bit under what BIABacus predicted, but end of boil volume was higher. Either my kettle has a lower evaporation rate or my boil was less vigorous than the BIABacus is calibrated for?

I did end up using PistolPatch's :shoot: suggestion of floating a stainless bowl on top of the wort for the boil. I had a light boil going without it, but it picked up nicely with the bowl added!

My biggest trouble was cooling ~4 gallons of wort using an icewater sink bath. I'm not sure if it's possible to do that in a reasonable amount of time.. Anyone have any tips in this area? I know I could buy a chiller but I'd rather not buy another piece of equipment..

On the bright side, I was close to my target OG of 1.060 (hydrometer reading was ~1.058). I'm a bit worried that I pitched the yeast while the wort was a bit too warm - was about 75 degrees F, was hoping for closer to 70 but we had plans last night so I was a bit rushed.

Post #11 made 10 years ago
Ian, nice report and pics :clap:.

I wouldn't worry about doing any number adjustments yet. The fact that you had to use a bowl will mean that your evaporation will be lower than estimated but wait until another brew or two at least before even worrying about interpreting numbers. Your OG ended up as close as you can hope for and you had a bit more volume than estimated so all is good.

When you are cooling in a sink or laundry tub follow this guide...

1. Use a sink or tub that is not too much bigger than your kettle, You want to be able to fill the tub so as the kettle floats with as little water as possible.

2. Change the water when it gets hot/warm You might have to do this several times.

3. DO NOT USE ICE until you notice that changing the water alone is taking too long to make much difference.

Also note that if you can agitating the wort while it is in the bath will speed up cooling times. However, you need top protect the wort from outside nasties if doing this. Also, if you do this, it obviously disturbs the trub. So, it is a double-edged sword.

Nice job :peace:,
PP

[On the road atm so I'm going to be very erratic in the time I have available to spend here in the next three or so weeks. Hope the above is enough info for you.]
Last edited by PistolPatch on 14 Jan 2014, 16:34, edited 2 times in total.
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First BIAB on saturday (3 gallon Cascade APA) sanity check?

Post #12 made 10 years ago
Thanks again Pete!

Regarding your comments on cooling:

My kettle plus 3.5 gallons of wort is way too heavy to float in my sink.

Also, the kettle is so big relative to the sink that I can't release the drain unless I take the kettle out first. Maybe that's another reason it took so long - I ended up just bailing some warm water into buckets and pots and replacing with ice.

So I'm considering an immersion chiller, even though I prefer the simplicity of the sink bath, it just makes the brew day too long as it stands.


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Last edited by iancanderson on 14 Jan 2014, 21:12, edited 2 times in total.

First BIAB on saturday (3 gallon Cascade APA) sanity check?

Post #13 made 10 years ago
Oops, I was thinking your name was pistol pete...

BTW my airlock has yet to bubble after 3 days, even though the fermentation has looked active when I peeked. I'm worried my bucket isn't sealed up.. Hard to tell because it has a screw-on lid with an inner ring of rubber for sealing to the top if the bucket..

Here's a pic of the fermentation:
ImageUploadedByTapatalk1389705376.228143.jpg

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Last edited by iancanderson on 14 Jan 2014, 21:16, edited 2 times in total.

Post #14 made 10 years ago
My bucket lids are not totally air tight either. Wrap some plastic film stretched tightly around the lid and bucket. It will keep the nasties out! I use this stuff. It is very stretchy, and does a great job sealing my lids.
[img]
images.jpg
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Last edited by 2trout on 14 Jan 2014, 22:05, edited 2 times in total.
"All I know is that the beer is good and people clamor for it. OK, it's free and that has something to do with it."
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