First AG and First BIAB

Post #1 made 14 years ago
At Pat's encouragement, I am posting that this past Saturday I did my first AG brew, which was also my first BIAB. :thumbs: I had previously done two extract-with-specialty-grain brews (Hefeweizen and Stout) back in May. The BIAB was a Sierra Nevada American Pale Ale clone.

This was a stovetop 2.5-gallon batch (i.e., half batch).

I think I did OK. I calculated my brewhouse efficiency/efficiency into fermenter at 72%. I did a 90-minute boil and the color of the wort darkened more than I expected. I kept the burner on full, which may have darkened the wort, so next time I'll back that off a bit.

My wife and kids were quite patient as I "shared" my experience with them. ("Taste this! Amazing that the enzymes converted the starches to sugars, isn't it?" "Smell these hops!")

I learned a few things, too, chiefly that my pot heats faster than I realized. Letting the water cool because you overshoot the strike temperature is a pain. Grabbing a sandwich with the family and experiencing a hot break boilover is a pain. (Well, cleaning up after it is the pain, actually.)

Now the waiting game begins... I'm planning on 3 weeks in the fermenter and 3 weeks to bottle carb, so it will be at least mid-October until I get to really know how it turned out.

Post #2 made 14 years ago
Nice one smyrnaquince glad to see it went ok.

Next time if you overshoot your strike temps just bail out some of the hot water and replace it with cold.

As to your darker than expected wort,,it will still taste great, you could always drink late at night with the lights off and no one will be able to tell. :lol:

Boil overs are a PITA and you learn from experience on that one. Best to keep an eye on it when it starts to boil which is the danger time. But you know that now don't you :lol: :lol: :lol:

Good luck on your next one, :luck:

Yeasty
Why is everyone talking about "Cheese"
    • SVA Brewer With Over 50 Brews From Great Britain

Post #3 made 14 years ago
Yeasty wrote:Next time if you overshoot your strike temps just bail out some of the hot water and replace it with cold.
Wow! I can't believe I missed such an obvious solution! Still learning...

Yeasty wrote:Boil overs are a PITA and you learn from experience on that one. Best to keep an eye on it when it starts to boil which is the danger time. But you know that now don't you :lol: :lol: :lol:
Next time my wife asks if I have time to eat lunch with everyone, the answer will be "No." ;)


Thanks for the encouragement!
Last edited by smyrnaquince on 08 Sep 2011, 04:58, edited 5 times in total.

Post #4 made 14 years ago
Congratulations sq :thumbs:,

Your first few AGs can keep you on your toes. Boilovers only seem to happen on the first few brews and seem to never re-occur. I think it is the brewing gods testing your commitment - lol!

The darker wort could also be due to a bit of a dodgy grain bill as some grains can colour wort dramatically. I am guessing but have no idea if I'm right, that if your pot was scorching the wort, you would probably see scorch marks on the inside base of your kettle???

I'm glad to hear your wife and kids only had to deal with the boilover. There was one guy who did his first AG and fed the grain to the family's pet goat who promptly died the next day. Spent grain is about the only thing a goat can't eat. His wife and kids were not impressed - I think they would have preferred the boilover :).

He called his brew, "Dead Goat Ale." :roll: Have you got a name for yours?

:P and :salute:
PP
If you have found the above or anything else of value on BIABrewer.info, consider supporting us by getting some BIPs!
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Australia

Post #5 made 14 years ago
Good job SQ.
one question though,
why do you think you need a 3 week ferment?
for an Ale, i would usually do a 10 day ferment and than bottle.
Cube:
fermenter: Sourdough Spelt Ale, Classic Lambic, Oud Brune, Barrel Aged Belgian Dubbel
Kegs: Bob's Black IPA, Blanc Blond, Soda...
to be brewed:

Post #6 made 14 years ago
So far, I am failing miserably at coming up with a catchy name. "Concord Pale Ale" is the best I've come up with so far, but that is pretty lame. Maybe "Coin Flip APA", because I dropped the thermometer into the pot of cooling wort and broke it while pulling a coin out of my pocket to flip to settle a disagreement between my kids. (I had planned to put my bag into the fermenter to strain out the trub anyway, and it worked wonders for getting out the pellets and bits of glass as well as the trub.)

3 weeks in the fermenter only because I was under the (vague) impression that longer was better (up to a point). I don't intend to transfer to a secondary and I know that the fermentation itself will take closer to 1 week than 3 weeks, but I thought that longer gave the beer time to have the flavors mix/mellow and the yeast more time to settle out.

Post #7 made 14 years ago
What about CoinFliPA? :roll:

LOL SQ on the thermometer! I hope it was an alcohol one and not a mercury one :argh:.

What was your recipe, yeast and ferment temperature? Are you going to bottle or keg? As shib says, you should be able to reduce the three weeks bit without penalty.

A General Bottling Question...

If SQ intends to bottle (I haven't bottled in years and when I did had no knowledge of what I was doing :roll:), would there be any penalty in him crash-chilling his fermenter, assuming he is able, so as to clear the beer before he bottles?
Last edited by PistolPatch on 08 Sep 2011, 21:52, edited 5 times in total.
If you have found the above or anything else of value on BIABrewer.info, consider supporting us by getting some BIPs!
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Australia

Post #8 made 14 years ago
PistolPatch wrote:What about CoinFliPA? :roll:

LOL SQ on the thermometer! I hope it was an alcohol one and not a mercury one :argh:.

What was your recipe, yeast and ferment temperature? Are you going to bottle or keg? As shib says, you should be able to reduce the three weeks bit without penalty.

A General Bottling Question...

If SQ intends to bottle (I haven't bottled in years and when I did had no knowledge of what I was doing :roll:), would there be any penalty in him crash-chilling his fermenter, assuming he is able, so as to clear the beer before he bottles?
Luckily, only the outer glass container of the floating thermometer broke. The inner working part stayed intact.

I will bottle. I have no kegging setup. I have no capability to crash-chill.

Recipe follows. If it turns out well, I will post it to the recipes section.


OVERVIEW

Style: American Pale Ale
Name: Coin Flip Pale Ale (a Sierra Nevada Pale Ale (SNPA) Clone)
Yeast: Safale US-05 (US-56)
Fermentation Temperature: 74 F (My basement temp--I know it is a bit warm.)
Original Gravity: 1.053
Total IBU's: 39.07
Colour (EBC): 12 SRM
Efficiency at End of Boil: 70%
Mash Length (mins): 90
Boil Length (mins): 90
Your Vessel Type (Pot/Keggle/Urn): Pot
Source/Credits: http://forum.northernbrewer.com/viewtop" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... =4&t=15532
Notes/Instructions/Comments:
  • Original recipe was adjusted by the Sierra Nevada Brewmaster to match SNPA! I scaled the recipe down to 2.5 gal and adjusted for my available hops.
  • "Coin Flip Pale Ale" because I dropped the thermometer into the pot of cooling wort and broke it while pulling a coin out of my pocket to flip to settle a disagreement between my kids.
The specifics below are based on this recipe.

Volumes etc.

Your Vessel Volume (L or gal): 5.96 gal
Your Vessel Diameter (cm or in): 11.985 in
Water Required (L or gal): 4.89 gal at ambient
Mash Temperature (C or F): 150.8 F
Volume at End of Boil (L or gal): 3.27 gal Hot (3.15 gal Ambient)
Volume into Fermenter (L or gal): 2.70 gal
Brew Length (L or gal): 2.50 gal
Total Grain Bill (g or oz): 5 lb 9 oz (5.5625 lb or 80.5625 oz)

Grains - Colours - Percentages and/or Weight (g or oz)

Grain 1: Pale Malt (2-row) - SRM 3.5 - SG 1.037 - 5 lbs 2 oz (5.125 oz)
Grain 2: Crystal 60L - SRM 60 - SG 1.035 - 7oz (0.4375 oz)

Hops - AA% - IBUs - Weight (g or oz) at Minutes

Hop 1: Magnum Pellet - 15.2% AA - 23.8 IBUs - 0.25 oz @ 60 minutes
Hop 2: Perle Pellet - 7.5% AA - 9.02 IBUs - 0.25 oz @ 30 minutes
Hop 3: Cascade Pellet - 5.5% AA - 6.24 IBUs - 0.50 oz @ 10 minutes
Hop 4: Cascade Pellet - 5.5% AA - 0.00 IBUs - 1.00 oz @ 0 minutes

Adjuncts/Minerals/Finings etc

Adjunct: N/A
Mineral: N/A
Finings: N/A
Last edited by smyrnaquince on 08 Sep 2011, 23:06, edited 5 times in total.

Post #9 made 14 years ago
3 week primary is fine (if you have the patience), it does no harm and gives you nice clear beer. Use those 3 weeks to get some more brew going and build your pipeline so you'll always have something ready to drink. Congrats on getting the first one "in the bag". :champ:
WWBBD?
    • SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America

Post #10 made 14 years ago
I generally expect 1-2 weeks for ale and 2-3 weeks for lager. An extra week or two if you're busy is okay

Crash chilling before bottling helps reduce the sediment in the bottle, carbonation may be a bit slow but should happen, unless you cc for weeks before bottling
Fermenting: -
Cubed: -
Stirplate: -
On Tap: NS Summer Ale III (WY1272), Landlord III (WY1469), Fighter's 70/- II (WY1272), Roast Porter (WY1028), Cider, Soda
Next: Munich Helles III

5/7/12

Post #11 made 14 years ago
Congrats on your first BIAB SQ. I've been fiddling around with recipes for SNPA for some time now and put one down the other day almost exactly as you have posted, but with a lower IBU. Will be very interested to find out how your brew turns out. Pity you don't keg, it cuts the waiting time down!

Post #12 made 14 years ago
Thanks! Do read the NorthernBrewer thread I referenced in the recipe. The guy who originated the recipe actually got help from Sierra Nevada's Brewmaster, which I find pretty amazing. I'll post a follow-up when I finally get to taste my brew.
Post Reply

Return to “Stove-top BIAB (also known as Mini-BIAB)”

Brewers Online

Brewers browsing this forum: No members and 19 guests