Recipe All Grain Bi-Winning Pilsener. BIAB

Post #1 made 14 years ago
14kg Weyermanns Pilsener malt
145g Saaz @ 90 mins
50g Saaz @ 60 mins
50g Saaz @ 30 mins
To 23.5 IBU

I ended up with 55l of 1.050 wort.
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This is my first ever Pils.

I treated the water with CRS and DLS to get the levels just right.
I got the hardness down to about 20ppm CaCO3 and increased the Calcium to about 110 ppm as per instructions elsewhere.

I had to add back 10l of water which I had reduced the hardness of, I didn't bother to add the salts as it was post mash. This was because I was worried about the evaporation and losing too much beer and it being too strong. After the extra addition I go to where I wanted to be.


Hot break, small flecks in the brew.
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Rolling boil.
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Scum skimmed off the boil
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It was then pitched with a large starter of Budwar yeast WLP802, made from three vials pitched on 20l of starter wort. Yeast was allowed to drop out and then the wort poured off the top and just the sludge pitched.

It's in my fridge now at 9c +/-1c

I'll take a reading next week and then see if I need to raise it for a diacetyl rest as my pitching temp was a little high at 19c. I'm expecting about three weeks fermentation at the temps, although it should have lots of yeast so might be faster.

Once I've done the diacetyl rest I'll lager at 0c for three weeks, then see if it needs anymore.
I'm considering doing a mini mash for priming and pitching that once it's started.
Last edited by EoinMag on 05 Apr 2011, 16:59, edited 5 times in total.
http://beernvictuals.blogspot.com/ My blog, If you like what you read post a comment on the blog comments section thanks, BIAB post coming soon.

Post #3 made 14 years ago
Well I had a bit of a disaster and a save of said disaster at the weekend.
My salvaged and thermostat bypassed fridge that I use as a fermentation chamber died.
Luckily it was noticed in a short space of time, so the temperature was still very comfortably a lager fermentation temperature.
What I then did, was to empty our main fridge of shelving, luckily there was not that much stuff in it at the time. And I got my 60l fermenter in there and packed the food back in around it.

My wife was not thrilled, but she understands that it's a pils and it needs the cold ;)
I checked the beer last night while taking a gravity reading and it's tasting very very nice.
It's down now to 1.013-4 so it's almost at terminal gravity. Due to the tastings I've determined that it does not need a diacetyl rest, I think it's because it got almost a litre of WLP802 yeast sludge on it, so there can't have been much growth phase.

The next step will be to prime it with a mini-mash of the same recipe that I will make up, a calculator that I got on a German site I am a member of works out that I need to prime with 4.3l of wort to get to the carbonation that I need. The technique is called "speisen" and is a reinheitsgebot technique to stop you having to add foreign sugars for the priming.
If anyone is interested in this I can give some more information on the technique and provide the calculator, just it's all in German, so being able to read the language would help somewhat.
You also need to recalculate your gravities to degrees plato to plug them into the calcs, but it's not rocket science.

In any case, disaster averted, I have time now to work out how to get myself a new fridge.
http://beernvictuals.blogspot.com/ My blog, If you like what you read post a comment on the blog comments section thanks, BIAB post coming soon.

Post #6 made 14 years ago
EoinMag wrote:What I then did, was to empty our main fridge of shelving
Blindingly obvious solution to my problem now that you mention it. :headhit: I am going to be using a dodgy fridge liberated from my summer cabin as a fermentation chamber in my garage, but I was worried about what would happen if it croaked part way through a batch.
EoinMag wrote:The next step will be to prime it with a mini-mash of the same recipe that I will make up, a calculator that I got on a German site
Another site with a calculator (in English) is Braukaiser Kraeusening. I used that calculator for kraeusening a sour cherry ale that had become badly oxygenated due to hops getting stuck in my auto-siphon. It's the type of beer that should be aged for a couple of years, which is exactly when extra oxygen is especially not wanted. Supposedly the only way to repair that situation is to kraeusen for carbonation, so that the yeast in the fermenting wort added to the beer can clean up the oxygen. Since speisen (unfermented fresh wort) is a subset of kraeusen , the same calculator can work for both.
Last edited by paulbigelow on 12 Apr 2011, 09:41, edited 5 times in total.

Post #7 made 14 years ago
Cool, the speisen technique is a very interesting one and I have to admit it has a great appeal, apart from anything else it'll add back the beer that I'd normally lose to sludge and break material....precious beer.
I went out today and bought myself a second hand chest freezer that will fit the both of my fermenters at the same time. My 40th birthday is to be celebrated this summer so I'm gonna run some intensive brewing and get a lot ready for June/July and throw a big beery party :)

I think once this lager is done then I'll throw on an two stouts to my last recipe using the Irish Ale yeast, the Guinness drinkers will love it and also do some sort of red ale and another lager. In the end I'll have beer that would cost me about 400-500 to buy for less than 150 :)
http://beernvictuals.blogspot.com/ My blog, If you like what you read post a comment on the blog comments section thanks, BIAB post coming soon.

Post #8 made 14 years ago
Lagering commenced yesterday in my new freezer, set to 2c+/- 1c. I'm going to leave it like that for a few weeks before adding speise and bottling.
The advice on the German forum I frequent is not to add any more yeast post lagering, just have lots of patience on waiting for it to carb up. A month should do it I'd have thought. I can see now why people tend to avoid the true lagers, there is more into them than a simple English Ale. My hope is that it will be worth the wait.

The freezer is a long model, the full length chest freezer and the buckets just fit it, they need to be wiggled to get past the rim of the freezer, but once in it's a snug fit.
http://beernvictuals.blogspot.com/ My blog, If you like what you read post a comment on the blog comments section thanks, BIAB post coming soon.

Post #10 made 14 years ago
PistolPatch wrote:Great read above. Interesting stuff. Thanks guys :salute:

Eoin, has your wife got any sisters? :pray:

Hehe, she certainly puts up with a lot of my crap, but likes and understands the importance of beer, she also understands that I waited so long to do a lager properly that she couldn't tell me not to do that when I had gotten it to the stage it was at.

she does have a sister, but she's a pain in the arse and attached.

Interesting point with this ferment was that it has only taken ten days to get to terminal gravity even with it being a lager, I hear of people waiting 2-3 weeks, but I put this speed down to the huge pitch of almost a liter of pure Budwar yeast. Pitch it high and it will attenuate ;)
Last edited by EoinMag on 14 Apr 2011, 22:31, edited 5 times in total.
http://beernvictuals.blogspot.com/ My blog, If you like what you read post a comment on the blog comments section thanks, BIAB post coming soon.

Post #11 made 14 years ago
LOL! When you say, 'and attached,' does that mean you forgot to attach her pic? :lol:

Lagers are a bit of work.,, or not so much work as time. You can actually be a bit lazy with them. Most of the great lager brewers I know don't follow the fastidious rules.

To me, a 'perfect' lager is a fascinating beer (full of subtlety) but they are few and far between. I strongly suspect that time (lagering for over 9 months) is what can make a good to great lager become a 'perfect' one.

Remember to attach the pic. :)
PP

P.S. Ten days of primary ferment is interesting. Not sure if that is a problem???
Last edited by PistolPatch on 14 Apr 2011, 22:46, edited 5 times in total.
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Post #12 made 14 years ago
PistolPatch wrote: P.S. Ten days of primary ferment is interesting. Not sure if that is a problem???

Tasting would suggest it's not an issue at all, it's hitting all the right spots even though young and cloudy still, but it's already tasting very very good and no off-flavours that I can discern.

I think it's purely the amount and from my reading I understand the symptoms of overpitching are thinness and lack of body....in a lager....I'll live with that if that's the case :)

Everything I read says pitch a large healthy population of yeast at a lager....I did so. It's actually also attenuated a little lower than I had expected, the best part of a point, but none the less.

Lagers are my fave beers, having lived in Germany so long, so I get you on the subtlety point :)
A lot of the modern homebrewers just brew hop bombs and have no concept of subtlety and diss the more refined lager....meh to them I say. My tastebuds get jaded very quickly on a session of something very hoppy and I find it hard to get past 4-5 pints of them, but when on a session I like more than 4-5 pints at times :)
Last edited by EoinMag on 14 Apr 2011, 23:25, edited 5 times in total.
http://beernvictuals.blogspot.com/ My blog, If you like what you read post a comment on the blog comments section thanks, BIAB post coming soon.

Post #13 made 14 years ago
I've taken this off the yeast cake after three days of lagering, so it's effectively in the secondary now. I got a very thick compact yeast cake and the beer is still very hazy, I presume chill haze with it being about 2c.
http://beernvictuals.blogspot.com/ My blog, If you like what you read post a comment on the blog comments section thanks, BIAB post coming soon.

Post #14 made 14 years ago
I did my last tasting on this, trying to see how it develops with a drop every few days. It's my first lager and I want to follow the progress and the flavour development. Taking it off the yeast has already had a major effect on the flavour and clarity. I'm really excited about this beer as I was drinking Krombacher and Spaten this weekend and this stuff is definitely in the right ballpark already. I've decided to lager for longer than originally intended, gonna push 6-7 weeks at 2c, having read this in the Yeast book as the recommended time.
http://beernvictuals.blogspot.com/ My blog, If you like what you read post a comment on the blog comments section thanks, BIAB post coming soon.

Post #15 made 14 years ago
I am still lagering this, I'll possibly bottle it the coming weekend. I've had it at 1c for nearly 6 weeks now. The taste of it is very good, but unfortunately there is one flaw and that is that I grew the starter at room temps and didn't decant absolutely all of the starter wort, as a result the small amount that got into the beer has created a very slight banana/phenol off tang.
At least I know where it came from and am happy that there is only the one flaw that I can pinpoint the reason for and have learned how it won't happen again.

Grow your lager starters at lager fermentation temps....simple.

Next time this won't happen, and in reality I have learned a lot and know that if I can do it this way the next time minus the mess-up with the starter that I will actually produce a really good lager.
http://beernvictuals.blogspot.com/ My blog, If you like what you read post a comment on the blog comments section thanks, BIAB post coming soon.

Post #16 made 14 years ago
Excellent notes Eoin. I find it so hard leaving a lager lagering especially once in the keg. A glass here and a glass there and before you know it - all gone :argh:

Great that the banana is only slight. Phew!
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Post #17 made 14 years ago
PistolPatch wrote:Excellent notes Eoin. I find it so hard leaving a lager lagering especially once in the keg. A glass here and a glass there and before you know it - all gone :argh:

Great that the banana is only slight. Phew!

It's a little irritating, although I suspect the average lager drinker would love the beer it gets on my nads a bit, but I'd be more worried if I didn't know where it had come from to be honest, and I'm quite thrilled that it's the only flaw and after a sup or two you no longer notice it at all.

I think I have Pils nailed, the next iteration will tell me yay or nay, but am happy enough.
Last edited by EoinMag on 14 Jun 2011, 18:36, edited 5 times in total.
http://beernvictuals.blogspot.com/ My blog, If you like what you read post a comment on the blog comments section thanks, BIAB post coming soon.

Post #18 made 14 years ago
Ok 8 and a bit weeks at 1c, this is well and truly lagered. That said, I bottled it at the weekend and undid some of my hard work on the lagering front. I made a 5l minimash to prime the solution with, bottled it and it's back into the fermentation chamber again in bottles at 13c to carb up. I'll be doing a new beer next weekend so it had better be carbed up by then, the temperature is going up to 18c in the chamber at that point to ferment out the ale.
http://beernvictuals.blogspot.com/ My blog, If you like what you read post a comment on the blog comments section thanks, BIAB post coming soon.

Post #19 made 14 years ago
sigurdur wrote:Great read Eoin!

It's great to learn from your mistakes, especially since I want to brew a pils sometime this year .. thanks!! :)

I hope it tastes great for you, but just in case it has a bit of banana-estery flavors, I'll get rid of this thing for you .. just ship it my way ;)

It's only very very vague, not much to worry about, after three or four of them I don't think I'd even notice. :)
Last edited by EoinMag on 05 Jul 2011, 20:51, edited 5 times in total.
http://beernvictuals.blogspot.com/ My blog, If you like what you read post a comment on the blog comments section thanks, BIAB post coming soon.

Post #20 made 14 years ago
Tried a bottle of this tonight after about ten days in the bottle. There is still a lot of active yeast in it, but knowing that the real thing in Czech when fresh is served cloudy I can live with drinking a pint or two of it cloudy. In any case it's coming over a lot nicer now that it's carbing up a bit and is drying out for the final stretch. I'll lager it again shortly to clear it finally, damn this lager is a lot of time investment.
http://beernvictuals.blogspot.com/ My blog, If you like what you read post a comment on the blog comments section thanks, BIAB post coming soon.

Post #21 made 14 years ago
Well the next time I do a lager there will be two prerequesites, I will have all of my kegs and bottles full first and then I will do two brews at the same time and fill my two fermenters, meaning 120-130l of lager at once, the time is the same so I may as well.
http://beernvictuals.blogspot.com/ My blog, If you like what you read post a comment on the blog comments section thanks, BIAB post coming soon.

Post #22 made 14 years ago
Apologies for jumping on this thread but I had a question specifically for EoinMag. I notice above you treat your "Dublin" water above (I'm a Dub in Paris) with CRS and DLS. Have you tried Citric acid before with your ales/ lagers ? Or anythig else ? I've checked the Paris water and it's very similar to Dublin in terms of Bicarbonate levels. How do your untreated ales turn out ? I've just done my first BIAB in Paris and the mash pH was way too high. I know it's ideal for stout which I'll do next (My dad worked in the Guinness plant in Dublin) but I'd like to nail down ales first because I miss them having moved here from the UK. I also lived in Sydney for two years but the BIAB managed to completely pass me by ! Incidentally i'm a chemist so I'm quite interested in working on water treatment generally.

Cheers,

Cillian

Post #23 made 14 years ago
Killer wrote:Apologies for jumping on this thread but I had a question specifically for EoinMag. I notice above you treat your "Dublin" water above (I'm a Dub in Paris) with CRS and DLS. Have you tried Citric acid before with your ales/ lagers ? Or anythig else ? I've checked the Paris water and it's very similar to Dublin in terms of Bicarbonate levels. How do your untreated ales turn out ? I've just done my first BIAB in Paris and the mash pH was way too high. I know it's ideal for stout which I'll do next (My dad worked in the Guinness plant in Dublin) but I'd like to nail down ales first because I miss them having moved here from the UK. I also lived in Sydney for two years but the BIAB managed to completely pass me by ! Incidentally i'm a chemist so I'm quite interested in working on water treatment generally.

Cheers,

Cillian

Hi Cillian,

This was actually my first lager, I've been intimidated by the idea up until now. This is really my first foray as a result into water treatment, previously I have done simple things like adding a spoon of gypsum before the boil but nothing quite so indepth as this time. That said it's simple enough too. All I've done is work out the KH(Karbonat Haerte - Carbonate hardness) and then worked off that as the total alkalinity as I believe the figures are interchangeable for these purposes and then used the calculator on the brupaks website to work out the CRS addition on a sliding scale.
http://www.brupaks.com/water%20treatment.htm" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I have also tested the Ca content of the water using another aquarium test kit and then used that figure and the same page from Brupaks to work out the DLS addition, now that is also adding other stuff I maybe don't want so it's a rough water treatment.
If you want to get indepth into it, which as a chemist you might well want to, then there are spreadsheets about for working out salt additions to a very fine degree of accuracy. You would however need to start with distilled water if you really want to do it well and build the whole water profile yourself from scratch, it's a bit tedious for mere mortals however....Braukaiser has a good site on the subject if you google him.
It's definitely necessary for the soft pilsener style beers, but I never noticed an issue with my ales with little or no treatment, that said I am sure my next light ale will be better due to the treatment.
I hope that's of some help, it's possibly a little simplistic for what you need, but I think Braukaiser will allow you to geek out on water treatment if it floats your boat :)

Eoin
Last edited by EoinMag on 15 Jul 2011, 17:53, edited 5 times in total.
http://beernvictuals.blogspot.com/ My blog, If you like what you read post a comment on the blog comments section thanks, BIAB post coming soon.

Post #24 made 14 years ago
Cheers for that EoinMag. To be honest, for the moment I'm just trying to make decent reproducable beers but noticed my alkalinity was quite high (according to the books) which seems to have raised my mash pH. I'll probably just boil the night before and readjust with non-boiled water the next day to optimum concentrations of Ca and Bicarb - though I'm also interested in using different acids just after grain in to fix the pH a little. This is extremely easy if you have the right numbers. It might be interesting to know if others have done this and noticed any flavours (if any) due to the various acids (probably not hydrochloric and Sulfuric -which I think are in the gear you use). I'll leave the geeking out til I'm a bit more proficient !


Cillian

Post #25 made 14 years ago
Oh to your other question, the Germans use lactic acid or acid malt to acidify their mashes. Sorry I neglected to mention that in the earlier post. So lactic would appear to be the one to go for. That said, I believe that CRS is a mix of hyrochoric and Sulphuric acids from what I have heard.
http://beernvictuals.blogspot.com/ My blog, If you like what you read post a comment on the blog comments section thanks, BIAB post coming soon.
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