stux wrote:Check this out
http://www.aussiehomebrewer.com/forum/i" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false; ... t&p=826068
And here is a link to the same user's build log for the earlier part on this forum
viewtopic.php?f=53&t=1017
Thanks PP! As to the sight gauge, that "little tap" was just installed to plug the hole so I could test water tightness. The tap will be removed and replaced with a digital temperature probe which will plug into the control box.PistolPatch wrote:thughes, that is really impressive, very neat-looking work
Trying to work out how the sight gauge works - looks like a little tap. Is that going to be easy to keep clean?
Good on you,
PP
I did!PistolPatch wrote:The pics keep getting better. Nice one Todd. Have fun this weekend
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I am interested in how you return the wort to the top of the grain in a manner that assures that it will go thru the grain instead of taking the path of least resistance and simply circulating around the strainer/bag combo. I'm thinking that having it "whirlpool" back into the top of the pot would send it towards the edge of the pot thereby making it more likely to go thru the little space between the strainer and pot. Perhaps, if there is a bit of space above the perforations to the top edge of the basket, the basket could be suspended into the pot such that a bit of rim is above the surface. That might redirect the wort back over the top of the grain bed making it less likely to sneak down the sides. Anyway, I'm looking forward to hearing your observations.Stux mentioned: The grain bed will form at the bottom of the bag. If you draw from the drain and you don't have some sortof manifold to support the bag you might find it clogs.
If you just return to above the grain its possible the wort won't mix properly and the returned water might find its way down the side of the mash... path of least resistance and all that.
Steamer basket has holes in sides and bottom.kzimmer0817 wrote:thughes,
Quick question first regarding the steamer basket that came with your kettle: does it have holes in the bottom or only on the side? I'm assuming that it would be perforated on all surfaces.
I love your setup. I've been "drawing up" a similar design in my head for several weeks. I want to go all-electric. I would like to build a brew-station that has a little hoist/crane with which I lift the steamer basket containing the voile bag out of the kettle. I would like to recirculate in order to keep mash temps constant and have an automatic temperature controller.
I am interested in how you return the wort to the top of the grain in a manner that assures that it will go thru the grain instead of taking the path of least resistance and simply circulating around the strainer/bag combo. I'm thinking that having it "whirlpool" back into the top of the pot would send it towards the edge of the pot thereby making it more likely to go thru the little space between the strainer and pot. Perhaps, if there is a bit of space above the perforations to the top edge of the basket, the basket could be suspended into the pot such that a bit of rim is above the surface. That might redirect the wort back over the top of the grain bed making it less likely to sneak down the sides. Anyway, I'm looking forward to hearing your observations.Stux mentioned: The grain bed will form at the bottom of the bag. If you draw from the drain and you don't have some sortof manifold to support the bag you might find it clogs.
If you just return to above the grain its possible the wort won't mix properly and the returned water might find its way down the side of the mash... path of least resistance and all that.
I do not envision myself ever brewing more than a 5 gallon batch, so I will probably do fine with my 8 gallon kettle. It is very likely that I will do a number of 2.5 gallon batches (Mini-BIAB) in order to experiment with various beers and keep a few different ones on hand for variety - as I only drink 1-2 beers per day.
Will you please post some pics of a brew session?
Thanks. I'm most definitely getting inspiration from this.
Keith
Thanks for answering the question about the steamer basket. I see your reasoning for the circulation, now. Since BIAB seems to be a continuous batch sparge, your wort recirculation is simply to maintain temps, not to make certain that the grain comes into contact with fresh wort. You stir it frequently in order to accomplish that. So even if the recirculated wort does go down thru the space between the sides of the basket and the kettle, it will heat the mash.thughes wrote: As to the concern regarding the recirculated wort avoiding the grain bed and simply running down the sides and around it? I am recirculating mainly to equalize the temperature of the water outside of the bag with the temperature of the water inside the bag, I still plan on giving the mash a good stirring at regular intervals with my mash paddle during the mash.
I'm speaking from no experience whatsoever, but before you hack up your basket: have you operated your kettle, including the recirculating pump, using the bag without the steamer basket? IOW, rig up some kind of false bottom (the broccoli steamer as I've seen before) in the bottom to make certain that it's the basket that's slowing down the flow and not simply the bag.thughes wrote:Observations/lessons learned:
Although the basket looks like Swiss cheese, it does not drain well enough. If I recirculate too fast, the liquid can not drain through the holes in the basket fast enough and the level in the pot begins to rise. I compensated for this today by closing up the valve on the recirculation hose to a tiny trickle. I think I will take a saw to the basket and hack the hell out of it. (Stay tuned for pictures)
Is it possible that this might be due to the location of your temp probe - in the space underneath the basket and near the heating element? If the probe were stuck into your mash, might it work better? It's possible that I'm not fully understanding the process - not knowing if it's a problem with how the PID functions or a problem with sensing the temp.I also need to tweak the PID controller a bit more but despite my best efforts to the contrary, I was able to maintain a perfect 152 F for the duration of the mash. I did have some trouble getting the PID to raise the temp to mashout (I know that hurt my efficiency).
How fast did the bag/basket combo drain when you raised it compared to when you did BIAB without the basket? I'm just trying to save you the trouble of hacking up your basket (which isn't a cheap piece of equipment when purchased separately).I think crushing a bit finer, opening up the holes in the basket, and stirring a bit more will get my numbers back up to where they were with my old system (82-84%).
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