Hi all, well finally done it, my new electrim digital controlled 32litre toy arrived yesterday, and today joined the biab universe, been kit brewing for 2 years now and thanks to this wonderful site I've done the plunge, my first recipe went for something simple,
....SW2 APA
6.81 lbs Maris otter
.7 lbs crystal
3 entries of east Kent goldings
using the magical biabacus I settled for a 14litre conversion from original 25 litre, and went for 5.2 % rather than 4.9%
Everything went great "mashed " for 1 hour @ 65deg. to which my new toy kept pace fluctuating between 65 and 66 degree. Set temp to 100 and was boiling within 25mins ready for hops.
At last my kitchen smelled like a brewery lol, now I like a hoppy beer or a bitter one but as I don't know what hops went into what beer (I just liked what I tasted ) but when I opened up hops pack and sniffed .. mmm so "THATS " what I've tasted in some beers, can't wait to investigate new hop's and grain, well time to check fv it's been 5hrs and no bloops but I'm confident lol, oh and my O. G. before fv came in at 1.050, not yet sussed how to do efficiency but I ended up with 12litres instead of 14 but I did leave about litre of trub in boiler so still happy with results so far. Sorry for long winded post but buzzing at moment can't wait for next steps will keep you informed even tho it's probably been repeated loads of times
Cheers.... Jim
Post #2 made 9 years ago
Congrats on the first all-grain brew day Jim... always nice to see another new AG brewer.
A couple notes. Remember that we here at BIABrewer recommend a 90 minute mash as best practice. You mentioned you mashed for 60 minutes only. Also, keep working on getting your BIAB processes down. Your "brew day mechanics", if you will, are very important to making great beer.
Congrats again!
A couple notes. Remember that we here at BIABrewer recommend a 90 minute mash as best practice. You mentioned you mashed for 60 minutes only. Also, keep working on getting your BIAB processes down. Your "brew day mechanics", if you will, are very important to making great beer.
Congrats again!
1st biab with electrim digital
Post #3 made 9 years ago
Another tip would be to not rely on the airlock. Best way to test if fermentation is still happening is to take regular hydrometer readings 
.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
.Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
1st biab with electrim digital
Post #4 made 9 years ago
Thanks guys my fv bubbling nicely now, I also need to correct myself... I did mash as advised @ 90 mins not 60 (my excitement confused the boil time ) also a couple of things for anyone else starting off, ditch the kitchen scales they don't measure the light hops good enough, and if using 3 hop additions use 3 hop socks or get burnt fingers tying and untying 1 sock, and my next toy... a wort cooler
cheers again.. Jim
cheers again.. Jim
Post #5 made 9 years ago
Good on you, jim... boil time is recommended at 90 minutes too. I want to see a pic of the finished beer when it ready.
Post #6 made 9 years ago
Hi Jimbeefish, congrats on the brew! To get your efficiency numbers you need to fill out sections M and L in biabacus as you brew. Efficiency is based on gravity and volume, and the BIABacus works it out for you if you give it the info it needs to do so... I find the easiest way to measure volume during brewing (at least for me) is with a long ruler to measure kettle headspace (distance from top of kettle to liquid). As long as you have your kettle dimensions entered correctly. Measure headspace at any time and put the result into section V and it calculates your current volume.
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Canada
-
1st biab with electrim digital
Post #7 made 9 years ago
It just gets better, every little tip puts the jigsaw together so thanks to all for this forum and their knowledge, and especially to all that developed biabacus, I'm now heading down the path of brewing happiness because of those above, I will attempt pics of finished beer when they ready.... Jim
1st biab with electrim digital
Post #8 made 9 years ago
Hmm... my hydrometer is reading 1.014 after just 4 days in fv, i started fermenting on Sunday at 1.050og , is this normal for a grain brew, it wasn't a vigorous fermentation just nice and constant bloops, but 4 days?
I lifted lid and was disappointed at lack of aroma but tasting sample jar it tasted OK but seemed to lack a bit body, (no gone bad taste ) really don't know what I was expecting but fingers crossed it will get a lot better than than initial test, any input that will keep my pecker up will be appreciated lol,... Jim
I lifted lid and was disappointed at lack of aroma but tasting sample jar it tasted OK but seemed to lack a bit body, (no gone bad taste ) really don't know what I was expecting but fingers crossed it will get a lot better than than initial test, any input that will keep my pecker up will be appreciated lol,... Jim
Post #9 made 9 years ago
I wouldn't be passing any judgement on it @ 4 days jimbee, in fact I wouldn't even be bothered to take samples until at least 10, and usually not until 2 weeks unless I am really in a hurry. Even at bottling/kegging time, it won't usually taste anywhere near as good as it will once properly conditioned. I know it's difficult to have patience on a new brewing setup, I think we've all been there hah.
As far as being normal for it to drop that much in 4 days, it really depends on the yeast and fermentation conditions, but I certainly wouldn't call it abnormal. In any case, it will almost definitely be a tasty brew, so sit back, relax and let it do its thing...
As far as being normal for it to drop that much in 4 days, it really depends on the yeast and fermentation conditions, but I certainly wouldn't call it abnormal. In any case, it will almost definitely be a tasty brew, so sit back, relax and let it do its thing...
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From Canada
-
Post #10 made 9 years ago
Jim... I regularly have fermentations that reach terminal gravity in 4 days... BUT...
1. just because the hydrometer is at your expected terminal gravity does it mean the beer is done. Your attenuation may be higher than expected for this brew so it could keep falling. This could be due to many things, like yeast strain or presence of contamination or temperature shift, yeast health, etc. You only know if you have reached terminal gravity after getting the same reading over several days.
2. Once the beer has reached terminal gravity, the yeast still haven't stopped working at cleaning up certain by products that affect flavor negatively.
3. Don't trust a single hydrometer reading. Take several and make sure your test tube is big enough to get an accurate reading. At any rate, the numbers aren't very important for homebrewers IMHO. I take numbers to help me compare things but I try not to obsess over them.
4. Most of all look at the beer and taste it. You will know when its done when it drops clear and the taste has rounded out. I regularly taste my fermentations during the process. Its fun and tells me a lot.
In other words... there is a good reason that goulaigan says relax and be patient. Oh... and I still want to see pictures.
1. just because the hydrometer is at your expected terminal gravity does it mean the beer is done. Your attenuation may be higher than expected for this brew so it could keep falling. This could be due to many things, like yeast strain or presence of contamination or temperature shift, yeast health, etc. You only know if you have reached terminal gravity after getting the same reading over several days.
2. Once the beer has reached terminal gravity, the yeast still haven't stopped working at cleaning up certain by products that affect flavor negatively.
3. Don't trust a single hydrometer reading. Take several and make sure your test tube is big enough to get an accurate reading. At any rate, the numbers aren't very important for homebrewers IMHO. I take numbers to help me compare things but I try not to obsess over them.
4. Most of all look at the beer and taste it. You will know when its done when it drops clear and the taste has rounded out. I regularly taste my fermentations during the process. Its fun and tells me a lot.
In other words... there is a good reason that goulaigan says relax and be patient. Oh... and I still want to see pictures.
1st biab with electrim digital
Post #11 made 9 years ago
Thanks guys you said the things I wanted to hear, i have a few wines on the go so I understand patience lol it's just an exiting new experience I'm in.. human nature and things, don't worry safebrew pics will come... cheers jim
Post #12 made 9 years ago
Jim,
It's definitely not unusual to get 72% apparent attenuation in 4 days, especially with an APA mashed at 65C, although you didn't say what type of yeast you used. If you used a Cal ale yeast like US05/WLP001/WY1056, then you might get down to ~1.010 (or evn slightly lower), but if you used an Eng ale yeast like S04/WLP002, then you may be close to FG. In any case, you're doing just fine. Depending on the yeast, your fermentation may be done only 7 days after pitching or maybe 14. People always tell beginners to allow 2-3 weeks to be on the safe side, but it's often not necessary to wait that long. I don't think you said what your FV is. If it's a carboy that you can see, then you really don't need to take too many hydrometer samples. You can see if the yeast are still active, and of course, there's always the activity in the airlock. I'd just caution about taking too many samples since it increases the risk of contamination, and also takes quite a bit of beer if using a hydrometer. This is where a refractometer really adds value, since you can get a gravity reading with virtually no beer (although you still ave to get the sample, thereby risking contamination).
Hey, I know it's like waiting for Santa, but if you can wait, then give it at least 10 days total. If not, then maybe check after 7. If there is no airlock activity or no yeast action churning (if visible), then take another hydrometer reading. If it's where you expect FG to be, then you can proceed with bottling or kegging. And yes, that beer will almost certainly get better with just a little age. I also found that I had a hard time judging uncarbonated beer not very long ago. As my experience grows, I can judge my beer much better along the way. However, as safebrew and goulaigan have said, if you're unsure, it's best to give it just a little time.
It's definitely not unusual to get 72% apparent attenuation in 4 days, especially with an APA mashed at 65C, although you didn't say what type of yeast you used. If you used a Cal ale yeast like US05/WLP001/WY1056, then you might get down to ~1.010 (or evn slightly lower), but if you used an Eng ale yeast like S04/WLP002, then you may be close to FG. In any case, you're doing just fine. Depending on the yeast, your fermentation may be done only 7 days after pitching or maybe 14. People always tell beginners to allow 2-3 weeks to be on the safe side, but it's often not necessary to wait that long. I don't think you said what your FV is. If it's a carboy that you can see, then you really don't need to take too many hydrometer samples. You can see if the yeast are still active, and of course, there's always the activity in the airlock. I'd just caution about taking too many samples since it increases the risk of contamination, and also takes quite a bit of beer if using a hydrometer. This is where a refractometer really adds value, since you can get a gravity reading with virtually no beer (although you still ave to get the sample, thereby risking contamination).
Hey, I know it's like waiting for Santa, but if you can wait, then give it at least 10 days total. If not, then maybe check after 7. If there is no airlock activity or no yeast action churning (if visible), then take another hydrometer reading. If it's where you expect FG to be, then you can proceed with bottling or kegging. And yes, that beer will almost certainly get better with just a little age. I also found that I had a hard time judging uncarbonated beer not very long ago. As my experience grows, I can judge my beer much better along the way. However, as safebrew and goulaigan have said, if you're unsure, it's best to give it just a little time.
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 50 Brews From United States of America
-
Post #13 made 9 years ago
Newb question...cwier60 wrote:This is where a refractometer really adds value, since you can get a gravity reading with virtually no beer (although you still ave to get the sample, thereby risking contamination).
I have read that one should only use the refractometer for OG related tests. The reason given was that once sugars began to be turned into alcohol the refractometer would return inaccurate results.
Did I misunderstand ?
Has anyone used both a refractometer and hydrometer throughout the fermentation process and compared results ? What conclusions did you draw from the experiment ?
Last edited by jeatmon on 18 Jan 2015, 01:51, edited 1 time in total.
-
- From United States of America
-
Post #14 made 9 years ago
Jeatmon, please check http://www.northernbrewer.com/refractometer-calculator/
And try the Program for all times of beer brewing.
It will help with Pre-Fermentation Brix to Gravity Converter, Brix to Gravity during and after fermentation converter, and Approximate ABV and Original Gravity from current Brix and Gravity converter.
Good Luck!
And try the Program for all times of beer brewing.
It will help with Pre-Fermentation Brix to Gravity Converter, Brix to Gravity during and after fermentation converter, and Approximate ABV and Original Gravity from current Brix and Gravity converter.
Good Luck!
Honest Officer, I swear to Drunk, I am Not God.
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 100 Brews From United States of America
-
1st biab with electrim digital
Post #15 made 9 years ago
Update.... Well I've been getting a reading of 1.011 for 2 days now so I guess it's ready for next stage, quick question tho, I'm going to transfer to another fv (opaque ) to clear a bit, how long do you think? I'm concerned if it clears too much there will be no yeasties left in for when I bottle, I normally batch prime at this stage when using kits but this one seems cloudy and has lots of "bits " on surface ( tastes fine tho at moment ) cheers jim
Post #16 made 9 years ago
Jim...
no need IMO to transfer to secondary fv unless absolutely necessary. I usually don't at all. Let it sit in primary another 7 days. Then, bottle. You need so little yeast in suspension to carb the bottles you will be fine. Keep the bottles at fermentation temps for 10 to 14 days, chill then show me some pics!!!
no need IMO to transfer to secondary fv unless absolutely necessary. I usually don't at all. Let it sit in primary another 7 days. Then, bottle. You need so little yeast in suspension to carb the bottles you will be fine. Keep the bottles at fermentation temps for 10 to 14 days, chill then show me some pics!!!
Post #17 made 9 years ago
That refractometer calculator (and most others) are inaccurate and calculate a FG that is way too low. The most accurate one available is from Sean Terrill. You can use the calculator online or download the spreadsheet.joshua wrote:Jeatmon, please check http://www.northernbrewer.com/refractometer-calculator/" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;
And try the Program for all times of beer brewing.
It will help with Pre-Fermentation Brix to Gravity Converter, Brix to Gravity during and after fermentation converter, and Approximate ABV and Original Gravity from current Brix and Gravity converter.
Good Luck!
I have taken both measurements on a few brews and gained enough confidence in the correlation to use refractometer readings almost exclusively. Sean collected data from a large number of brewers in validating his model.jeatmon wrote:Has anyone used both a refractometer and hydrometer throughout the fermentation process and compared results ? What conclusions did you draw from the experiment ?
Last edited by cwier60 on 19 Jan 2015, 09:37, edited 1 time in total.
-
- SVA Brewer With Over 50 Brews From United States of America
-
1st biab with electrim digital
Post #18 made 9 years ago
Cheers guys I'm going to let be for 5 more days , so meantime I will attempt a pic upload of my homemade wort cooler I did today , it's just not about learning brewing skills but engineering skills as well lol, here goes..
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
